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What do you use as a fermenter?

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I have a variety-6.5 gallon buckets, glass carboys(6.5 and 5 gallon) and a 12.2 gallon stainless conical. All of them work well when used properly, but the glass one see a lot less use than the others.
 
4 buckets, 6.5g each. I wish I had a large FV sometimes, but I rarely get 10g. of beer at a time. I should probably save my money for other probably-unnecessary brewery items I'm sure to spend it on...
 
Two 15 gallon barrels, four 6.5 gallon carboys, a 7.5 gallon bucket, and 1/4 barrel sanke.

Sanke will see its maiden ferment in two weeks.
 
Two 6.5Gal glass carboys
two ~7gal Speidel ferment-whatevers

Using the glass more and more as it is fun to see what is going on...
 
Glass Carboy, Winpak Plastic Jug, and Food Grade Lowe's Bucket "Lowes.....Let's Brew Something Together"

I too have used Menards buckets and their lids, self-drilled grommet hole and used 3/8" blowoff tube into juice container with grommeted lid on it as well. No plastic flavors, no infections. :mug:
 
Those of you that use 1/4 or 1/2 barrels what are you using for a air tight lid and if just using the shank that was on it how is it to clean since a carboy is hard enough to clean
 
Those of you that use 1/4 or 1/2 barrels what are you using for a air tight lid and if just using the shank that was on it how is it to clean since a carboy is hard enough to clean

I've used several different things. The large universal bung (not the one for BB carboys) works well. You just need to push it all the way down. You can also use the orange carboy cap, just warm it up so that it's easier to get on it. There's the sanke fermenter kit from Brewer's Hardware too. I've used those, but now I have TC caps that have been adapted to be my own fermenter caps. Essentially, I took the idea from Brewer's Hardware but changed the compression fitting (for a racking cane) to one for a liquid ball lock post. I also removed the 1/2" OD fitting for either an airlock of blowoff tube. I kept the thermowell though, since it's really nice to have the inside temperature. To transfer, once finished, I simply take the airlock off the base for the ball lock post, slip a liquid dip tube (cut to leave a certain amount behind) and then install the liquid post (with poppet). I have a gas fitting installed in the top of the keg too, so I have an easy way to put CO2 in. Pushing the finished beer out this way allows me to make sure no oxygen hits the brew. It also allows me to fill the keg via it's liquid post (filling from the bottom).
 
I have a 30L keg that has had the spear removed.
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And some buckets and a carboy.
 
metalpysko said:
Can u use a bucket from home depot or is that a different type of plastic being used???

I have used them before. Same plastic as ale pails. Make sure its not scratched up and sanitize it by filling with starsan/water a good while before racking beer into it. Many people use them. Batch size needs to be about 3.5 gallons or less though so you have room for krausen. Use blowoff tube (put bung in HDepot lid, 3/8" tubing into jar of starsan).
 
I wouldn't keep anything in plastic for too long though. Long secondaries and such is probably best done in glass or stainless
 
Good advice. Once you lose the positive pressure of the primary fermentation, you risk oxidation. Don't worry about autolysis, but...
 
Keep it in the primary until you get the same hydometer reading two days in a row. Then you can bottle or do whatever you wish.
 
3 quart glass, 1 gallon glass, 6 galllon glass, 7 gallon glass, 4 x 6.5 gallon plastic buckets, and a 1/4 bbl sanke so basically whatever i run across on CS for cheap.
 
Antler said:
Two 15 gallon barrels, four 6.5 gallon carboys, a 7.5 gallon bucket, and 1/4 barrel sanke.

Sanke will see its maiden ferment in two weeks.

I'm thinking about getting 3-4 V-vessels, but that could be a long ways off.
 
I'm really happy with my 14.5 gallon Curtec barrels. They are air tight and easy to clean/carry.

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