What do I need for my first keezer build?

[dawn_kiebawls]

Hey guys and gals, with the holidays right around the corner, and the Mrs having already approved my first keezer build I feel like a little kid again making my list and I need some help! Here is what I have in mind:

-Hisense 7.2CF chest this isn't the top brand but I can get one new at work for $150
-inkbird ITC 308 I'm thinking of using this as a thermostat since this will also be used as a ferm chamber
-2 perlick faucets (I'm planning to add 2 more and a stout faucet for nitro coffee in the future)
-5 or 10 pound co2 tank depending on how much this build ends up costing

What I don't know...

-I would like to have a dual body regulator so I can force carb and still serve at the same time. Is this necessary or is it just a luxury? I drink mostly saisons, IPAs and pale ales if that makes a difference.
-Does it sound right that I will need ~10-12' of beverage tubing per tap? I'm planning on using 3/16 ID. I've read a lot of posts and looked at many calculators and am getting a bit overwhelmed.
-Are there different size faucets, or just the barbs that connect the tubing?

If this sounds good to the more seasoned pros on here, good. If there is something I'm overlooking, excellent! If I'm not even CLOSE, even better! But, would you mind setting me straight please? Thanks again for all the help, everybody. I appreciate it a lot!

 

[day_trippr]

- Lots of HBT folks using the ITC-308. I'd consider it vetted.
- The 630SS is a fine faucet
- Try not to buy a cylinder outright unless you have identified a refill-on-demand station. The most prevalent model these days is tank swapping, so you could easily be waving "Bye Bye" to your shiny new aluminum cylinder as you cart home a steel beater. Some LHBS's have tank exchange programs which might be financially superior.
- If you're even thinking about it, get the dual body regulator
- 1 foot of 3/16" ID beverage line per PSI of CO2 - with that PSI defined by our favorite carbonation table. Find your beer temperature, scan across that row to your desired carbonation level, then run up that column to find the appropriate CO2 pressure to keep the beer properly carbed. Set your line length accordingly and you should be good to pour.
- there's no standard for faucets aside from the coupler end, but then there doesn't need to be.
- you can find different tail pieces and even shanks with different bore sizes, but in practice 3/16" or 1/4" ID shanks and tail pieces will work fine. Don't knock yourself out trying to find one vs the other...

Cheers!

 

[CTcourage]

Far more knowledgeable ppl than me here, but as a n00b I want to plug Zach at Keg Connection, a sponsor. Call him at 325-356-5204 and let him spec what you need. I put this off far too long but got a sweet deal and best part it all comes connected up so ready to install.

My needs are simple, just want to run commercial kegs in my keezer. I got a full stainless setup, 10lb CO2 cyl, single body Taprite regulator, 7' x 2 of pvc-free lines, and 2 CMB V10 flow control faucets, shanks, couplers, etc for $600 shipped.

 

[BeardedBrews]

I've bought shanks and faucets from Beverage Factory and been very pleased with the service and delivery. If I was building from scratch I'd go this route: http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/faucets/faucets/perlick630_stainless_combo_shtml

I couldn't justify the extra $20/faucet ($100 total) for the flow control when I could just make the lines a little longer for the cider and seltzer taps. I also don't see the value in the tailpiece / washer / nut approach versus the nipple shank since I don't ever really take the system apart anyway.

Some will recommend John Guest fittings and long lengths of barrier ultra. Again, I couldn't work out the value for my system, but your mileage may vary.

 

[PADave]

I've been planning my build for months now. Going to happen this winter, doing a 4 tap keezer to upgrade my current single tap setup. I'm in the buy once, cry once crowd, so going to do it right the first time. This is my buy list, going with all stainless steel.

Chest freezer
20 lb CO2 tank
Ball Lock Kegs
Perlick Flow control Faucets
Shanks
shank connector kits
CO2 regulator - dual pressure
Gas distribution block 4 or 5?
Liquid out connectors - stainless
Gas in connectors - stainless
Gas line
Liquid line
MFL connectors
Bulkhead shank (2)
Moisture absorber
Fan

 

[jlindborg]

Definitely go with a dual body regulator if you can; definite plus to have separate line for force carbing. Also start with 10' lines (or longer) and cut them back as needed. I started with 10' and cut them back to about 8'. You can alway lop a foot off if flow rate is a problem. Put together your hardware list and start keeping an eye on the black friday/cyber monday deals; I was able to get just about everything I needed at some huge discounts. Also, see if you have a local tank swap option; I've got two places locally, and was able to score a rusty 20lb empty tank on craigslist that I was able to simply swap.

 

[brew703]

I'm just about complete with my build. Should have it up and running tomorrow.
I bought most of my parts from Ritebrew and Keg Connection and second set of kegs from Adventures in homebrew. The kegs from AIH were cheaper and in way better condition, just an FYI.
If you are using clamps, get the Oetiker clamps. The worm clamps leak sometimes.
Here's a partial list:

Intertap flow control faucets (RiteBrew)
Taprite Duel regulator (Amazon)
Bev Flex Ultra (beer line) with John Guess fittings (RItebrew)
Insignia 7.1 Chest freezer (Best Buy)
4 Ball Lock Kegs (AIH & Keg Connection)
Gas/Liquid couplers (Ritebrew)
Oetiker clamps and crimper (RiteBRew & Keg Connection)
Fan (Amazon)
2 MFL Bulkhead to run gas line through collar (CHI Co)
Gas Line (RiteBrew)
Swivel Nuts (RiteBrew)
2 Shanks (RiteBrew)
Faucet Brush and Caps (RiteBrew)
BLC Line Cleaner (Keg Connection)

 

[TANSTAAFB]

Curious as to why some of y'all are going with Perlick rather than Intertap? I know Perlick has been the gold (stainless? &#128513 standard but I freakin love the interchangable spouts on the Intertaps

 

[PADave]

Curious as to why some of y'all are going with Perlick rather than Intertap? I know Perlick has been the gold (stainless? &#128513 standard but I freakin love the interchangable spouts on the Intertaps

I was considering the Intertap. Which spouts are you using?

 

[TANSTAAFB]

I'm not...yet! I just moved and my old heavily stickered kegerator fridge with cheapo shanks and faucets seems to have died in the move so I'm planning much the same keezer build as y'all. I like the ability to switch to a stout faucet, growler filler, BALL LOCK--really?! So much awesome! Beats Perlick hands down IMO

 

[TANSTAAFB]

I'm gonna miss those stickers 🤬

 

[IPAfreek]

I have been trying to steer clear of Northern Brewer as of late, but they have a great deal on faucet kits. It includes the faucet, shank and line for 50.00.

https://www.northernbrewer.com/draft-brewer-build-a-keezer

I actually just ordered 3 not to long ago because you can't beat the price for what you get.

 

[PADave]

I have been trying to steer clear of Northern Brewer as of late, but they have a great deal on faucet kits. It includes the faucet, shank and line for 50.00.

https://www.northernbrewer.com/draft-brewer-build-a-keezer

I actually just ordered 3 not to long ago because you can't beat the price for what you get.

I'd stay away from that. You're going to get what you pay for. Cheep faucet, not forward sealing. I'm sure it's all chrome plated brass. Just don't be surprised when you get off flavors, or your faucet sticks.

 

[IPAfreek]

Well !%#%. Didn't really look too much into it at the time...

 

[dawn_kiebawls]

Thanks for all the help guys! Last night I ordered an inkbird itc-308 (for $11! gotta love cyber monday...), 2 perlick 630ss faucets, 2 SS 4''x 1/4''(bore) shanks, 2 1/4'' tailpieces, 2 wing nuts, dual body regulator and some other odd n ends. Now, all I need to do is pick up the freezer and get the actual build under way. OH, and find some time to fill my 2 kegs!!