what are you using to split circuits?

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twd000

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I have 30A/240V with ground running into my project box. I need to power an Auber PID with 240 for the element power, plus a couple 120V circuits for the pump and other miscellaneous stuff. Are you just using a terminal block to tap the hot legs from the power supply? Or is there something better suited for this task, without constructing a whole new subpanel with breakers inside my project box?

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=23449646
 
A fairly simple approach is to split the hot leg you will be using to derive your 120v circuits, and use an inline fuse before a terminal block like your link. I believe Kal (www.theelectricbrewery.com) uses a 7a fast blow fuse, and then wires all his 120v devices from the terminal block with 14awg.
 
Some contactors have built in distribution spade lugs. I used one like this to split off power to some of the low current loads on my last upgrade. Its not visible but there are lugs available on both the line side and load side of the relay.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

31nImEJah1L.jpg
 
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Old thread but I didnt want to start a new one. I have contactors just like above but it is not triggering with power running through it. I know the circuit completes because the LED turns on but the connection between each side does not and there is no noise.

I can not find any info on wiring diagrams for this but I assumed that each side has a connection (2 poles) and that each of the brown connector sides (far right in the pic above) is one connection of the coil. So power in one side, neutral out of the other should complete the circuit right?

Quick break down of how I have it going: 120v in to one side. on the d block on the same side I have a line to a switch and led and then back to the coil on one side. Other side of the coil goes to a netural bus and the other side of the switch is a line to my 120v d block.
 
The same contactor can be made with 220V coil. Double check it.
If you are sure it's 120V - try to connect coil directly to 120V outlet. It should click loud enough when you connect it.
 
I am sure it's 120, at least that was the amazon listing:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KGSJ74/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

straight from my orders. Ill give the that shot. If i move the right side (NO feed to d block to the in d block, everything powers up as your would expect because there is nothing breaking the circuit so it is definitely not triggering.
 
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The same contactor can be made with 220V coil. Double check it.
If you are sure it's 120V - try to connect coil directly to 120V outlet. It should click loud enough when you connect it.

Alright, hooking the 120 line directly to the coil on one side and neutral on the other does fire it. Could the switch/LED inline really take enough out that it does not have enough to fire?
 
Problem sort of solved. Removing the led from the circuit works. Ill just reroute the wires so that the led is coming out of the d-block. Still weird to me but hey, I am no electrician. thanks for the help!

Edit: Same thing with the contactor for the element. You cannot inline the LED for some reason. I had to just wire the led beyond where the contactor was so it would only light when powered.
 
Yep, the LEDs should be wired in parallel with whatever is being switched (e.g., an element, outlet, etc.).
 
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