Weldless Heat Shield for Brew Stand - How To

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bendiy

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Now that you have finished your brew stand, before you fire those burners up, wouldn't it be nice to protect the stand from the high heat?

Your stand is probably made out of galvanized steel, stainless, or painted carbon steel. If it's galvanized steel, getting it hot is going to burn off the zinc coating releasing poisonous gases and allowing it to rust. If it's painted, the paint will burn off. If it's stainless, its going to get dirty and you just wasted all those hours polishing that stand.

I present to you, the Weldless Heat Shield for Brew Stand:
5857-finished-stand-2.jpg


This idea came to me from diatonic's stand, but he welded together stainless angle. I don't have access to a welder and I didn't want to pay for stainless, so I came up with an alternative.

I found the following at a salvage yard for $10:
5863-metal-angle.jpg

It's standard perforated angle iron most of the weldless stands are made of. There are also two pieces of aluminum. I'm not sure what they came off of, but the profile looks like this.
5848-aluminum-profile.jpg


You could use standard aluminum angle, but I got these two pieces for $2 total.

I had to route out the profile:
5868-router-setup.jpg


Now the perforated angle iron fits perfectly:
5867-routed-aluminum.jpg


Next, I measured the opening in my stand and took off 0.5 inches to leave 0.25 inches on each side for the shield to fit into the stand. It's a little tight, but it works fine. I'd leave 3/8 to 1/2 next time:
5851-cut-steel-sections.jpg


Only cut half way through. The cuts are then cleaned up with a grinder:
5870-steel-cut-closeup.jpg


Notch out tabs on one end of each piece:
5876-steel-tabs.jpg


Then clamp the tabs and bend them over with a hammer:
5877-steel-tab-bend.jpg


Like this:
5874-steel-tab-bent.jpg
 
Then bend the sides over:
5873-steel-side-bend.jpg


Once you make a square, the tab overlaps to allow you to close the frame:
5875-steel-tab-connect.jpg


Now your frame looks like this:
5871-steel-frame.jpg


The frame should set in your stand like so:
5872-steel-frame-stand.jpg


The next step is to measure and miter the aluminum at 45 degrees to build a frame. Measure carefully. You can always take a little more off if it doesn't fit right:
5846-aluminum-frame-stand.jpg


Here's how the miter should look:
5847-aluminum-miter.jpg


The next step is to prep the corner braces. I picked these up at the depot, 8 for about $7:
5844-3-surface-braces.jpg


To get a tight fit in the corner, you have to grind out the corner a little:
5845-3-surface-braces-cut-corner.jpg


Now assemble all of the pieces like so and hold in place with a tie down strap:
5849-assemble-strap.jpg


Then tape the aluminum miters so they stay tight:
5878-tape-miters.jpg
 
Tape the sides also so the frames do not wiggle while drilling:
5879-tape-sides.jpg


Label all of the corners. After drilling, you will have to take it apart to clean it up:
5862-label-corners.jpg


Drill holes through the corner brace holes. I only needed two holes in each corner, but you could go nuts and do all 8 in each corner:
5854-drill-holes.jpg


The perforated angle iron leaves bad burrs when drilled and the aluminum is rough:
5852-drill-burr.jpg


So after drilling, take it all apart and use a larger drill bit to clean up the burrs:
5853-drill-burr-free.jpg


Now you are ready for the pop rivets. Hammer them in:
5864-pound-rivets.jpg


Put all of them in place first so it stays aligned before using the rivet gun to pop them:
5866-rivets-place.jpg


When done, it should look like this from the bottom:
5865-rivet-closeup.jpg


Here's the finished frame:
5855-finished-frame.jpg


I wanted to burn off the zinc and paint on the frame, so I did a heat test. I placed the shield directly over the burner flame for a good 5-10 minutes:
5860-heat-test.jpg
 
Here's the results:
5861-heat-test-result.jpg


The paint on the aluminum is pretty strong. It didn't burn off at all. I think it's an enamel finish. The aluminum acted like a heat sink, so I could only get the zinc to burn off of the galvanized parts that were exposed on both sides. I don't think I need to worry about the zinc burning off. If you use standard aluminum angle, it should cover the perforated angle iron completely and protect the zinc from burning off. I might add some extra aluminum around my exposed rim since the pieces I have don't cover the perforated angle iron completely.

Here's what the shields look like installed:
5856-finished-stand-1.jpg


This is with a piece of duct work I'm using as a wind screen:
5858-finished-stand-3.jpg


5859-finished-stand-closeup.jpg


5850-bottom-view.jpg


What I like about having a free floating frame as a shield is that it leave an air gap between the frame and your stand. This prevents the zinc or paint from burning.

My shield actually sets on the 8 rivets, so it's about 0.25 off of the stand:
5869-setting-rivet.jpg
 

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