Weldless bulkhead keeps leaking

[SanPancho]

I cut the hole a little too low on the kettle, down at the curve into the base. The ball valve has a bit of downward slant since the kettle wall is curving into bottom.

Whats done is done. Now to fix it? Was thinking maybe another gaskit on inside? Put one on the outside?

Or suck it up and get one welded on?

 

[day_trippr]

Try doubling whatever gasket you're using now and cranking down a bit tighter...

Cheers!

 

[wilserbrewer]

More gaskets perhaps. Silicone sealant perhaps.

Silver solder is a fairly easy DIY project. You could likely remove the gaskets and silver solder the bulkhead you have.

 

[SanPancho]

Gasket doubled is easy and is the obvious first fix. But the issue i had installing initially is that since surface isnt flush the gasket gets warped out of place as you tighten down. Maybe two will be easier.

Silver solder makes me worried about longevity as the outlet assembly is likely gonna get knocked around somewhat. Cracks and leaks is foreseeable.

 

[Dcpcooks]

Find a stainless washer that is slightly larger than the gasket. The washer will prevent the gasket from expanding to much and it will keep it in place allowing a tighter seal, the gasket is on the outside of the kettle. Use a high heat gasket if it’s your boil kettle.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Silver solder makes me worried about longevity as the outlet assembly is likely gonna get knocked around somewhat. Cracks and leaks is foreseeable.

Ok, my opinion is that you worry too much

Many silver solder applications in use with little to no word of failure. I think the fitting would bend the kettle prior to solder failure. The strength of the connection will be in the bulkhead, not the solder so much.

Solder just replaces your gasket.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

If, the assembly is too low, as you stated, make sure whatever washer, ( should be an "area" washer ideally, aka a "fender washer), and if your washer is hitting the radius,@ the bottom of the pot, try to "massage" a slight radius into the washer, so that the edge of said washer, won't be bridging the radius, and it will allow it to pull down flatter, getting a better crush on your seal.

Opinions will differ wildly here @ times, but your sealing washer should be inside the kettle ideally.

 

[SanPancho]

My intention wasnt to reverse the assembly, it was to just add another gasket. Considering either inside or outside.

The problem with a fender washer is the radius. I can bend the washer but the nut is still flat, i assume it will just bend the washer flat again.

As for worrying too much, like i said- the ball valve assy isnt level and makes contact with the table when you set the kettle down. Add in a small apartment and an 18 month old we call El Destroyo and im gonna say its not a real solution.

I took it all apart and reassembled being extra careful to keep the gasket centered under the washer and nut. Boiled some water and let it sit all night. No leaks. Thinking of brewing again today, guess we’ll see if it stays tight.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

The problem with a fender washer is the radius. I can bend the washer but the nut is still flat, i assume it will just bend the washer flat again.

If you bend the edge of the washer, where it matches the radius, at the bottom of the vessel,( think "it nests"), and tighten it all up, you won't flatten the washer again.

Of course, all bets are off, if your hole is drilled more than "a little too low", where the nut won't swing on the washer any longer......

 

[MintonHVAC]

I cut the hole a little too low on the kettle, down at the curve into the base. The ball valve has a bit of downward slant since the kettle wall is curving into bottom.

Whats done is done. Now to fix it? Was thinking maybe another gaskit on inside? Put one on the outside?

Or suck it up and get one welded on?

If you have a TIG welder, weld it from the inside and use a purge gas on the outside to pervent chromium oxidization. It'll also wet-in really nicely.

 

[SanPancho]

Myl buddy can weld anything but purging an open vessel seems bit crazy. Hopefully it doesn’t come to that. Didn’t get to brew yesterday but trying to soon.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Myl buddy can weld anything but purging an open vessel seems bit crazy. Hopefully it doesn’t come to that. Didn’t get to brew yesterday but trying to soon.

Um, ya' only have to contain the purge gas, in the weld area.......

Unless ya' got's unlimited Argon......

 

[SanPancho]

Ah, gas on outside. Ok, got ya. Was thinking of him having to fill kettle with gas AND weld inside it, which seems difficult.

Ill brew again this weekend, see what happens. Gasket is simplest solution before i move to welding.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Ah, gas on outside. Ok, got ya. Was thinking of him having to fill kettle with gas AND weld inside it, which seems difficult.

I'm thinkin', ( and seen most of my Tig welding former co-workers do this!), you have a " T " in your Argon line, one to the torch, the other to the weld area.

Say your "work area" is 3" in dia.........

You rig a cup, or a dam, or some sort of receptacle, where you can shroud the area in Argon, ( say, 4" in dia.), and shroud / back up gas, inside the kettle.........

Weld on the outside of the kettle........You know, wher ya' got all that room and whatnot.......