i've seen a ton of horror stories of guys who just 'found a welder' and ended up with garbage welds. get references of SANITARY WELDS if you go this route.
Attached are my test solders on some 1" ferrules into the keg lid. Pretty pleased with how it turned out, some things to improve on for the real thing, hard to level the lid so the solder pooled a little on one side.
I plan to do 1" ferrules for piping and 2" ferrules for the heaters, hope to get to them soon.
so your dimple is to the outside yet the TC went from the outside inwards. how did you manage that? make the dimple slightly bigger and count on the solder to mechanically bind them instead of a press fit?
MrNatural said:Just the details I was looking for. My punch is 1 1/4" conduit, so that should work fine - if the dimple tool is a tad oversize to account for the metal springing back.
Still not sure if I need to dimple until I get with my buddy that is doing the welding. He may prefer to radius the ferrule and butt weld, but good to know my punch will work if necessary.
Thanks
Not sure that he's done sanitary professionally, he's actually a machinist, but has all the gear/gas and is super anal. Last time I was by his shop, he was showing me some welding on titanium - two different types!If he's done sanitary welding in a professional capacity, he'll probably radius the ferrule and butt-weld. That's pretty much every sanitary weld I've seen at work where the connection is curved (tank wall, sanitary tubing tee, etc.) The dimple method is just a clever workaround to allow those of us without a welder to be able to get a reasonably sanitary connection with silver brazing or solder.
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