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We no need no stinking beer gun...

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So I entered some beer that I bottled using almost this method in a competition and it scored poorly and both judges noted oxidation notes. I don't get any, but I also know from an off flavor class, that I'm not very sensitive to it. I'm ready to package some big imperial stouts and I had thought about possibly kegging and then bottling off the keg, but after seeing those comments, I think I'll just bottle like normal. I still think it works great for bottling off a few bottles to take and consume quickly, but from now on, I will only keg beers I know I'll finish in the keg. Take it for what that's worth :)

I recently entered 8 different beers using this method and no complaints of oxidation. I did use oxygen absorbing caps just in case. I did get a judge to call me a lair though. He wrote he could taste rye in my wheat beer because it was spicy and then wrote I should identify rye if I am going to used it. His score was 5 points lower the nthe other judge. He was wrong, just a bunch of wheat and a late steeping of liberty. So maybe there was no oxidation and that was the judges imagination. They are only people after all.

I hear some judges get up tight with bottle carbed beers due to sediment possible getting mixed up, that is why I used this method and bottled from a keg.

As a side note I recently had a 1 year old bottle of kolsh I bottled with this method. It was not as good as the fresh beer, but was still tasty. When I first bottled them I kept some in the fridge and some I put in the garage. The ones that went in the fridge would give the impression of being flat on opening(no hiss or immediate rising of bubbles), but would pour with plenty of carbonation and make a nice head. The ones that sat out then got re-cooled acted like a regular bottle of beer, nice hiss on opening and rush of bubbles.
 
Yeah, based on how I bottle from the keg (slowly and always capping on foam), I wouldn't have thought it they would have said that. I sure hope it's not the case of 1 judge saying it and then other then suddenly smelling it. In my job I've worked with sensory analysis and I know how you can be influenced to smell/taste something after someone else does. But despite that, at least one noticed it, so I doubt that it's not there. I just don't smell it, so I'll happily drink the few bottles I have left.

The imperial stout I'm bottling today, I plan to keep some around for several years, so I figure why take the risk.

Again, take it all for what it's worth (1 test; 2 judges).
 
The Helles I bottled this way back in September got 3rd in category in competition (beat out by 1 other Helles and an Export). Since then I've bottled a Baltic Porter this way as well and it tasted amazing. I think the goal is to get just enough foam in there that you don't actually bottle with oxygen in the bottle anymore.

On a side note, the IPA I first tried this one had issues, but I attribute that to not carbing it enough. I ended up opening each bottle and adding a small amount of dissolved priming sugar. Once it was primed it tasted very green.
 
So I have probably 1.5 or 2 gallons of a real nice Imperial IPA that keeps clogging my dip tube. How could I use my poor mans beer gun for it?

Would I regret a siphon of carbed beer? Or a bottling bucket?

I'd probably do 22oz bottles just to make my life easier.
 
My first attempt at this did not go so well.

The drilled stopper I bought from LHBS was a little two small I think so I had to shove it almost completely into the bottle. On one bottle it actually ended up in the neck and I had to remove with screwdriver.

The hole was also too big, so co2 was leaking around the racking cane, preventing pressure from building up inside to slow/stop the flow of beer.

I ended up turning the gas completely off, and after about 5 or 6 bottles the flow was slow enough that I didn't get a lot of foam, but the first 5 or so were like half foam, I had to wait until it went down and go back and finish filling them.

In addition, everytime I removed the apparatus, beer would move backwards through the line (towards the keg) and create foam inside the line. Probably as a result of my having turned the pressure completely off to slow the flow.

I'll need to go back to LHBS with a bottle and a racking cane to make sure I get a drilled stopper that will be tight with everything, and hopefully try again.

Another problem is that I was bottling a saison, which I have set at a relatively high carb level in the keg. I don't think that helped with my situation.

So first attempt not so good :(

Hopefully I can get this down the next time.
 
I (FINALLY!!!) just ordered the equipment I need to start kegging. Since one of my favorite things about homebrewing is sharing with friends/coworkers, I knew I would still want to bottle. My original intention was to buy a wye splitter, etc. so that I could add a Last Straw or Beer Gun later. After reading this thread I, instead, spent $16 on a racking cane, picnic tap, ball lock disconnect, beer line, and all of the other miscellaneous hardware for the BierMuncher system. That's less than it would have cost me to add another gas line for one of the commercial fillers.

If this works, I just might be tempted to have my vasectomy reversed so I can name a child BierMuncher.
 
I was skeptical to say the least, but it's so cheap I thought I'd give it a go...

I entered my first competition and bottled using this method, everything went great. I had to hand the bottles in 3 weeks before judging, I was worried they would be flat in that time but all three score sheets said great carbonation.

Delighted they didn't go flat :)
 
Does anyone know what size drilled stopper I should order for this?

#2 drilled stopper. I would order a few. Doesn't hurt to have extras.


I've also used mine to fill various size/style growlers too. Here's a lit of stoppers I've used.

#2 - for standard 12-22oz bottles, also includes the some swing tops
#6 - for standard 1/2 gallon glass growlers. They work on my full gallon jugs too, but I've not used one as a growler.
Small universal stopper (what comes with the plastic Big Mouth Bubblers), I've used these with the growlers that look like small kegs.
Large universal stopper (the ones with the Better Bottles). These will fit the 2L swing top glass growlers.


I thought I would throw that out there in case you already had any of these stoppers. The only one I really had to add was the #6 as the others were included with the fermenters. I use the Better Bottle one the most since I like the swing top 2L growlers the best.
 
#2 drilled stopper. I would order a few. Doesn't hurt to have extras.


I've also used mine to fill various size/style growlers too. Here's a lit of stoppers I've used.

#2 - for standard 12-22oz bottles, also includes the some swing tops
#6 - for standard 1/2 gallon glass growlers. They work on my full gallon jugs too, but I've not used one as a growler.
Small universal stopper (what comes with the plastic Big Mouth Bubblers), I've used these with the growlers that look like small kegs.
Large universal stopper (the ones with the Better Bottles). These will fit the 2L swing top glass growlers.


I thought I would throw that out there in case you already had any of these stoppers. The only one I really had to add was the #6 as the others were included with the fermenters. I use the Better Bottle one the most since I like the swing top 2L growlers the best.

Super helpful. Thanks a bunch!
 
I'm sorry if this was covered in the previous 125 pages, but I can't figure out why the stopper is necessary. If you're filling it to overflow, then swishing it for a bit before capping, why do you need to burp it? Can't you just fill it with the racking-cane-jammed-in-the-picnic-tap thingy until it overflows just as easily as doing the burping thing?

I'm sure I'm missing something here that's making this a really dumb question, but I don't see it yet...
 
The idea is counter pressure. If you just use a bottle filler it would more than likely foamover very quickly. With the stopper you are maintaining the pressure within the bottle to reduce foaming.
 
Is tube length an issue? I could get an extra racking cane, but I have a foot long piece of stainless steel tubing that fits nicely into a picnic tap .
 
I'm sorry if this was covered in the previous 125 pages, but I can't figure out why the stopper is necessary. If you're filling it to overflow, then swishing it for a bit before capping, why do you need to burp it? Can't you just fill it with the racking-cane-jammed-in-the-picnic-tap thingy until it overflows just as easily as doing the burping thing?

I'm sure I'm missing something here that's making this a really dumb question, but I don't see it yet...

Though the post below yours is correct, you do not need to use a stoppers. I haven't used a stopper in some time. I have talked to many guys and girls in the club that have stopped or never used a stopper, so I stopped. still get medals at comp and the only time I have gotten anything back about the carbonation level has been from a cider that I marked the wrong carbonation thing for(its the only cider i have ever entered in to a comp and they ask carbonation levels) and it took a medal too.

so if you want to follow this method to a T, then yes you need the stopper. Though if you are more concerned with your own methods and what may work for you then no you don't. Try it, bottle with and with out the stopper. toss them in the fridge and drink after they have sat a while. That's what i did.
 
Can someone please explain the need for the stopper? Could you not achieve the results without the stopper? Assuming everything else remains the same.... cold bottle... low psi fill... cap on foam.
 
The stopper represses foaming by applying co2 pressure to the liquid as it comes out of solution while filling.
 
The stopper is just there to increase pressure in the bottle which will reduce foaming. By pressing down on the stopper the pressure inside the bottle builds this inhibits foaming. Then by slowing releasing pressure on the stopper the bottle will continue to fill slowly thus reducing foam in the bottle.

That being said many have bottled without the stopper as you suggest and it worked out fine.

Cheers
 
The stopper represses foaming by applying co2 pressure to the liquid as it comes out of solution while filling.

The stopper is just there to increase pressure in the bottle which will reduce foaming. By pressing down on the stopper the pressure inside the bottle builds this inhibits foaming. Then by slowing releasing pressure on the stopper the bottle will continue to fill slowly thus reducing foam in the bottle.

That being said many have bottled without the stopper as you suggest and it worked out fine.

Cheers

Thanks. I don't notice more or less foam without the stopper. Again, that's given a chilled bottle, long output tubing, and low psi during bottle fills.

I thought that the stopper may have contained the (IPA) hop aroma during a bottle fill, but that didn't make much sense since the stopper is removed to cap the bottle anyhow.

Foaming equates to escaped CO2. Would the stopper make that small difference in keeping CO2 contained in the beer?
 
Thanks. I don't notice more or less foam without the stopper. Again, that's given a chilled bottle, long output tubing, and low psi during bottle fills.

I thought that the stopper may have contained the (IPA) hop aroma during a bottle fill, but that didn't make much sense since the stopper is removed to cap the bottle anyhow.

Foaming equates to escaped CO2. Would the stopper make that small difference in keeping CO2 contained in the beer?

Yes in my opinion.

EDIT; I don't chill the bottles first though.
 
I don't use a stopper but I have filled both bottles and growlers and I agree that the key to filling without the stopper is lower serving pressure and chilled bottles.
 
I'm getting together the supplies to start kegging, and one of the things I thought I had to buy was a beer gun. Glad I saw this post, it literally saved me $100. Thanks for the info, looking forward to trying it.
 
I don't use a stopper but I have filled both bottles and growlers and I agree that the key to filling without the stopper is lower serving pressure and chilled bottles.

I don't lower my pressure or chill my bottles. I also don't use a stopper and it works just fine. I do bottle from the tap with a length of SS tubing, so there is 10 ft of line between me and the keg.
 

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