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I am the least handy person in the world, but the instructions for this were so easy. I ordered the parts and just tried it--seemed very successful, super easy. We'll see for sure when I open the bottles, but I have a great feeling about it.
 
ok, so I haven't read every page, but I did read a lot of this a few years ago and tried it... with no success. I believe I did everything right, but the main issue I had (that I think may be the culprit) was temp. If I try to let the beer sit and carb at room temp will it not hold the gas well? I remember when I bottled it was nice and carbed, but in only a few hours it was rather flat. Does the beer need to be carbed cold for this to work optimally?
 
I don't get why you would waste CO2 purging the bottle. At the end, you still suck the same amount of air into the bottle when you pull the cane out. A short blast of CO2 maybe would do something at the end, but it still won't get all the O2 out. I think the best method is to loose fit the caps on the bottles for a few minutes to let CO2 from the beer displace some O2 and then use and O2 absorbing cap. i just don't see the point of going through the hassle of connecting the CO2 line to a beer gun.

Also, how necessary is it to use the stopper? I understand the pressure buildup will reduce foaming, but if you have a cold bottle and fill slowly this seems like an unnecessary step.
 
Having just skimmed the pages... I was wondering what BMBF is...

Per google it was: The Federal Ministry of Education and Research (Bundesministerium für Bildung und Forschung, BMBF

Thank got for the youtube video i found.. lol
 
Having just skimmed the pages... I was wondering what BMBF is...

Per google it was: The Federal Ministry of Education and Research (Bundesministerium für Bildung und Forschung, BMBF

Thank got for the youtube video i found.. lol

With deference to the OP, I believe it is the BierMuncher Bottle Filler.
 
I have a question that I haven't seen asked throughout this thread (I've probably read through 50 of the 91 pages on here, so I certainly could have missed it!)

I'm certainly no expert on keg line balancing, but the research I've done has told me that 3/16" ID beverage line has a resistance of 3 psi per foot. Assuming there is 12 psi in the keg, a 4 foot section of 3/16" hose should mean less than 1 psi coming out the other end, right? So if you are using 6 or 7 feet, the beer should be at a fraction of a psi or not flowing at all? I realize the elevation difference has an effect too, but the question I have is if we are using a 7 foot liquid line, why do we need to vent the 12 psi from the keg, and lower it to 2-3 psi? Shouldn't the long line negate the need to do this? One reason I ask is if I'm bottling a dry hopped IPA, I don't want to vent the keg and lose all that lovely hop aroma to fill a few bottles. I've had to vent the keg repeatedly before when I've had IPA overcarbonation issues, and it really seemed to affect the hop aroma in the remaining beer. Anyone have an idea on this? Why keg pressure needs to be lowered rather than just using a long enough liquid line to restrict the flow?
 
Hey Tool, not sure if it would help, but believe the 3/16" is closer to 1.8 psi vs 3 based on reading and personal experience. Longer would help and the beer gun recommends something like 10'.

Cheers,
Dan F.
LAGERS/FOSSILS
 
i've been bottling a few brews with this method but have had a concern come up and want to see if anyone else has been dealing with the same thing.. I take my keg that is carb'd to specs, clean and freeze my 12 or 22 oz bottle, drop the CO2 pressure to about 2psi and fill the bottles and cap on foam. However, when i go to open the bottles after a few days or few weeks, i get little to no gas noise when popping the cap. The beer itself is carb's fine in the bottle but just concerned that i get zero sound og gas escaping. Is there something i need to worry about or is this common?

I'm getting ready to bottle some chocolate stout that has been sitting and aging in my keg and afraid to bottle this if it goes flat or bad if i'm doing this process wrong.

Thanks!
 
i've been bottling a few brews with this method but have had a concern come up and want to see if anyone else has been dealing with the same thing.. I take my keg that is carb'd to specs, clean and freeze my 12 or 22 oz bottle, drop the CO2 pressure to about 2psi and fill the bottles and cap on foam. However, when i go to open the bottles after a few days or few weeks, i get little to no gas noise when popping the cap. The beer itself is carb's fine in the bottle but just concerned that i get zero sound og gas escaping. Is there something i need to worry about or is this common?

I'm getting ready to bottle some chocolate stout that has been sitting and aging in my keg and afraid to bottle this if it goes flat or bad if i'm doing this process wrong.

Thanks!

If you are transferring a cold carbonated beer into cold bottles and then into the fridge, you probably shouldn’t expect that extra “Phttt” and CO2 cloud. That excess CO2 is formed as the beer continues to ferment ever so slightly in the bottles stored, or traveling at room temperature.

One thing you might try is as soon as you transfer to bottles, let them sit at room temperature for a couple of weeks. The warmer temps will spark just a little additional fermentation and give you that bonus “pop” of CO2 when you open the bottle. But….make sure your beer has fully fermented in the primary. Force carbing in a keg, and then transferring a slightly underfermented beer to room temperature bottles will result in the opposite effect…gushers.
 
ok, so i'm not doing anything " wrong " with the fact that i'm not getting the " psst " from opening the bottles.. I mainly bottle the last 4/5 bottles in my keg so i can free it up for new beer..

thanks!
 
I saw this thread and realized I had all this stuff laying around. It took me a few minutes to build and saved me $75. Thanks for this.
 
I will be making some root beer and force carbonating it for a get together this Summer. I don't want or need an expensive counter-pressure filler for its limited amount of use to make "Party Bottles", as I keg and bottle condition my beer. This is perfect. Thank you!
Here's a proven method for bottling your beer from the keg without an expensive beergun. I've been doing this for over a year and bottled dozens of cases this way. Every beer I've ever entered into a competition has received consistently high scores for carbonation.

Go ahead and keg the entire batch and get it to your desired carbonation.

To do this, you'll need a liquid hose with a picnic (cheap plastic) tap attached. The longer the liquid hose the better. I use about 7 feet. This provides adequate pressure to prevent foaming. The end of a racking cane fits very snuggly into the picnic tap nozzle. (Make sure the cane is pushed all the way into the nozzle of the tap) Go to your local HBS and buy a drilled stopper (I think it is a #2) that will fit over the other end of your racking cane. The end tip of the racking cane should be cut at an angle to allow free flow of the beer.

You now have a racking cane extending from your picnic tap with a stopper about midway up the cane. The idea is that this racking will go to the bottom of your bottle and the stopper will slide down snug onto the neck of the bottle.

It will help to chill your bottles ahead of time. Giving them a quick rinse in cold water will also keep foaming down. Recently, I've taken to just rinsing the bottels and have zero foaming problems.

Now follow these simple steps:

  1. Shut off the gas to your keg momentarily and open the (keg) relief valve to bleed excess pressure from the the keg.
  2. Turn the PSI on your regulator down to about 5. This needs to be a slow gentle process.
  3. Go ahead and open the tap and drain some beer into a waste bucket. This will prime and cool the lines.
  4. Now place the bottle filler into the bottle with the stopper pushed down snug onto the bottle neck. Open the picnic tap to the locked position.
  5. The bottle will begin filling but slow to a stop as the pressure builds
  6. Gently push the side of the stopper to allow the pressure to "burp" out of the bottle and the beer will begin to flow again.
  7. Continue the fill until beer (not just foam) begins overflowing and turn off the tap.
  8. Quickly move the rig to the next bottle and repeat.
  9. When all the bottles are full, give each one a quick "burst" of beer from the tap to top off.
  10. Move the bottles to your capping bench and place a cap on each bottle.
  11. Before locking down the cap on each bottles...tip the bottle on its side and back (holding the cap on with your finger of course). This will cause the beer to begin to foam.
  12. Place the capper on the cap loosely and as soon as the foam begins to overflow...lock down the cap.
This last step is important because capping on foam means you've purged the oxygen from the bottle and it will store much longer.

It will help to contain the mess if you load all of the bottles into a short five gallon bucket. I can usually fit about 13-15 bottles into one.

It sounds more complicated than it actually is. Very easy and you can get a sixer filled in about 5 minutes. Move the bottles to a fridge and open when ready. I just opened a porter this afternoon that I bottled this way about ten days ago and it was perfect.

From here on, I will keg everything and bottle off a twelve pack or so for keepsake and travel.


I recently (10/14/07) openned another Porter from my March bottling session and it was still just perfect. Nice puff of CO2 cloud in the neck of the bottle. Good foaming action during pour. Good thick head...and the beer laced nicely all the way through.

Notice the angled cut of the racking cane. Very important.
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This is awesome BierMuncher!! I just took the plunge into kegging yesterday and whilst getting everything ready at my LHBS, the guy there was explaining this exact process to me. I picked up the racking cane and picnic faucet so I can do this. Its perfect, cant wait to try it. If I could get 12 bottles off of every keg, I'll be very happy.

Thanks a lot for your write up, I will be doing this in a few weeks.
 
What is the purpose of the stopper, to build pressure?

Yes, exactly. By allowing some pressure to build inside the bottle, it helps keep the CO2 in solution (just like how inside the keg itself, the CO2 stays entirely in solution, because the pressure of the CO2 in solution is exactly equal to the pressure being supplied by the tank/regulator). When exposed to the lower-pressure atmosphere, the CO2 will come out of solution. So pressure inside the bottle helps keep the CO2 in solution in the beer.
 
I bottled 20 gallons last week two nights after work for a wedding on Saturday. I did 10 gallons on Wednesday night, I was having serious foaming issues, it took forever to fill a bottle and I spilled (foam) way too much. Thursday night I changed the tubing to a 5' section (original line that came with my kegging kit) and on the first bottle, it filled much faster with almost no spillage. The second bottle, the lever on the party tap broke off. Me and the groom filled +/- 90 more bottles using vise grips to actuate the tap.
Lesson learned: have a back up party tap, they are cheap.
We brought 183 bottles to the wedding (Centennial Blonde and Cream of 3 Crops), they were gone in less than 2 hours, only 1 flat beer.
Thanks BierMuncher!

image-723219720.jpg

This is from the second night
 
allenH said:
I bottled 20 gallons last week two nights after work for a wedding on Saturday. I did 10 gallons on Wednesday night, I was having serious foaming issues, it took forever to fill a bottle and I spilled (foam) way too much. Thursday night I changed the tubing to a 5' section (original line that came with my kegging kit) and on the first bottle, it filled much faster with almost no spillage. The second bottle, the lever on the party tap broke off. Me and the groom filled +/- 90 more bottles using vise grips to actuate the tap.
Lesson learned: have a back up party tap, they are cheap.
We brought 183 bottles to the wedding (Centennial Blonde and Cream of 3 Crops), they were gone in less than 2 hours, only 1 flat beer.
Thanks BierMuncher!

That's legit!
 
Thanks BierMuncher! I haven't bottled for a decade, but have wanted to get back into having a few bottles so I can share, compare and yes, free up my kegs just a little earlier. Your process was easy to assemble from off-the-shelf materials and worked like a champ. I'll be spending the next couple of weeks/months sampling my efforts to see how my process fared. :mug:
 
I bought a new racking cane and a drilled #2 stopper last night. I already had a picnic tap assemble for serving. I just wanted to test it out right away, so I only filled one bottle. I skipped chilling the bottle and just went for it. Worked beautifully. Can't wait to crack it open when I get home!

Thanks for saving me 100 bucks! I was about to buy a Beer Gun! :D
 
Hey guys, I read 72 pages and I'm now partially blind. I never did see a clear answer to a question I had but did not post. It may be somewhere within this thread but I never saw it. I have Perlick 525SS taps. There is an adapter that was posted here a couple of times from Center Line Technologies. That one does not work on the 525 taps which have no threads. But, I did find a solution and it is basically the same thing but has o-rings instead of threads and it is $12.99. That pushes the total cost up a little, but it is still less than a commercially made counter pressure filler. I can use this to fill occasional bottles and I also have 12 Tap A Draft bottles that I can fill with this.
http://www.homebrewing.org/Jug-growler-filler-for-Perlick-525_p_3539.html
 
I bought one of those from Northern Brewer, and it must have been for a different model of Perlick Faucet than the one I have as it did not fit. :(
 
Has anyone ever seen an adapter that fits the Krome Dispense tower faucets (non-Perlick)?
 
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