Is the purpose of the small stopper to help force CO2 into the beer or just for cleanliness?
We no need no stinking beer gun...
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SpanishCastleAle
Well-Known Member
I just did a trial run on six bottles last night. It went much smoother than I expected.
FWIW, I originally filled all mine to the top with liquid (letting foam overflow until liquid flowed out) but when I went to cap them I didn't get any foam up when I tipped the bottles...I had to dump a little bit out and then tip the bottle to get it to foam (this brew should be @ ~2.5-2.6 volumes CO2 and was @ ~35o F).
I used a kitty litter box (aka 'the swamp' to all my carboys
) to catch the overflows. I don't have a cat but that thing has been sooooo friggin useful over the years.
I did freeze mine but I also had the pressure really low and didn't really need the counter-pressure (i.e. stopper) either. The last couple I just filled up without the stopper. And that was with only ~2' of 1/4" beer line with a bottling wand (not a full cane) stuck right into the picnic tap.
FWIW, I originally filled all mine to the top with liquid (letting foam overflow until liquid flowed out) but when I went to cap them I didn't get any foam up when I tipped the bottles...I had to dump a little bit out and then tip the bottle to get it to foam (this brew should be @ ~2.5-2.6 volumes CO2 and was @ ~35o F).
I used a kitty litter box (aka 'the swamp' to all my carboys
) to catch the overflows. I don't have a cat but that thing has been sooooo friggin useful over the years.
conpewter
Well-Known Member
Yep it is good to have something to catch the run-over. I used one of those storage bins that is probably 2' X 3' X 6" high.
SpanishCastleAle
Well-Known Member
Yambor,
The stopper is your 'counter-pressure'. When you stick the cane with stopper into the bottle and seat the stopper only a little beer will flow and then the pressure in the bottle will build up to equal the pressure in the keg (at which point flow stops). In order to get the beer flowing again you have to 'burp' the bottle by ever so gently pinching the stopper or cocking the stopper to one side...whatever it takes to let a little pressure out without letting it ALL out at once. Then it's just an ON/OFF process...FLOW/BURP/FLOW/BURP/etc. until the bottle is full...then you'll have to flow a little more as you pull the cane out (because the cane displaces some beer in the bottle).
The idea is to get the carbonated beer into the bottle without gushing or excessive foaming. Then just tip the bottle to get it to foam a little bit (enough to just barely overflow) and quickly cap on that foam.
The stopper is your 'counter-pressure'. When you stick the cane with stopper into the bottle and seat the stopper only a little beer will flow and then the pressure in the bottle will build up to equal the pressure in the keg (at which point flow stops). In order to get the beer flowing again you have to 'burp' the bottle by ever so gently pinching the stopper or cocking the stopper to one side...whatever it takes to let a little pressure out without letting it ALL out at once. Then it's just an ON/OFF process...FLOW/BURP/FLOW/BURP/etc. until the bottle is full...then you'll have to flow a little more as you pull the cane out (because the cane displaces some beer in the bottle).
The idea is to get the carbonated beer into the bottle without gushing or excessive foaming. Then just tip the bottle to get it to foam a little bit (enough to just barely overflow) and quickly cap on that foam.
How full are you guys making the bottles? I was filling as I extracted the cane so I'd get to 1/4" or less, which foamed and spilled over enough, and I capped on that.
They definitely are more full than commercial bottles, but those guys may have different reasons for fill level.
They definitely are more full than commercial bottles, but those guys may have different reasons for fill level.
conpewter
Well-Known Member
I've filled mine to various levels. The last run I filled everything to probably 1/4" to 1/2" to the top and put a cap on immediately after filling, there was almost always enough foam.
surfbrewer
Well-Known Member
I've found that just the displacement caused by the racking cane leaves almost the perfect amount of head space once it is removed (on most bottles anyway). I have rarely gone back and added more once extracting the cane.
So if you can get the bottle to fill without a lot of foam and without the counter pressure sequence, you are good to go?
I have always used the CPS and never have a problem with carbonation.
One burning question I have, is how do I deal with beerlines if they're already hooked up in my kegerator? i want to pull the line off and hook up a BMBF, but I'm worried about leaking beer all over the inside from the unhooked line. Will the tap hold the beer in the line, like when you put your thumb over the end of a straw full of water?
OP
OP
TerapinChef
Well-Known Member
So here's my story. I have never kegged my beers. I have everything I need to keg my beers, (A dozen cornies, 20# CO2, regulator, etc) but I just enjoy bottles of beer and I don't really have space for the draft setup that I want. I do, however, hate when I get an improper level of carbonation in my bottles for whatever reason, and I have been making some high gravity brews the last few months. So rather than repitch yeast, get them bottled and hope that they carbonate properly and are ready to drink in about 6 months, I was planning on kegging them and using the BMBF. But here's my questions:
1) Does anybody do this with a full 5G batch? It seems like it might take a REALLY long time.
2) Has anyone done 1/2 the batch one day and the other 1/2 the next? Not being a kegger, I'm not sure what would be required with the changing of keg pressures...
3) My beer fridge where I would be chilling this keg (I'm assuming it's better to carb at room temp then drop to serving temp if time is not an issue?) is in an area that is in no way near sanitary. Is it okay to bring the whole setup (keg/tank) upstairs and have it at room temperature for the duration of the time it takes to bottle it?
Thanks BM! I'll certainly be using this for a long time, once I get my draft setup built.
1) Does anybody do this with a full 5G batch? It seems like it might take a REALLY long time.
2) Has anyone done 1/2 the batch one day and the other 1/2 the next? Not being a kegger, I'm not sure what would be required with the changing of keg pressures...
3) My beer fridge where I would be chilling this keg (I'm assuming it's better to carb at room temp then drop to serving temp if time is not an issue?) is in an area that is in no way near sanitary. Is it okay to bring the whole setup (keg/tank) upstairs and have it at room temperature for the duration of the time it takes to bottle it?
Thanks BM! I'll certainly be using this for a long time, once I get my draft setup built.
Jonnio
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I have BMBF'd an entire batch once, took probably 45 minutes to an hour from start of rinsing and sanitizing 12 oz bottles to end of clean up.
There is no issue with doing it in pieces - just put the keg back to the desired pressure after your done and release the pressure when your ready to bottle again
Its actually better to carb at lower temperatures since more CO2 stays in solution as the temp drops. It doesn't hurt anything to carb at room temp, but you will need to have a much higher pressure to get the same carb level. It is ok to have the keg outside of the fridge during bottling, but I wouldn't dilly dally - you don't want the actual beer temperature to warm up or you will lose more CO2.
There is no issue with doing it in pieces - just put the keg back to the desired pressure after your done and release the pressure when your ready to bottle again
Its actually better to carb at lower temperatures since more CO2 stays in solution as the temp drops. It doesn't hurt anything to carb at room temp, but you will need to have a much higher pressure to get the same carb level. It is ok to have the keg outside of the fridge during bottling, but I wouldn't dilly dally - you don't want the actual beer temperature to warm up or you will lose more CO2.
OP
OP
+1.
It sounds like you were thinking of moving the rig and then bottling. This could be a real issue because a fully carb'd keg...once moved...really needs several hours to resettle or else you'll be pulling beer out of a "shaken" keg and get a lot of foam.
If possible, bottle right from your chiller.
dunleav1
Well-Known Member
From one Lamp lover to another...
I'm doing a Belgian parti gyle brew next month (tripel, belgian pale) and I'd like to bottle half of each batch and keg the other half.
I was wondering if you've ever done any higher gravity brews or bottle condition brews this way?
I saw you pic in the post on Corona bottles with yeast sediment and it got me thinking why do I need to add bottle sugar when I already keg.
I'm doing a Belgian parti gyle brew next month (tripel, belgian pale) and I'd like to bottle half of each batch and keg the other half.
I was wondering if you've ever done any higher gravity brews or bottle condition brews this way?
I saw you pic in the post on Corona bottles with yeast sediment and it got me thinking why do I need to add bottle sugar when I already keg.
OP
OP
You'll have to help me out. I'm already half-past-druck this evening. What's your question exactly? And use big crayons so I can follow along please.
if you chill everything ahead of time, and you test carbonation and it is good, you could probably pull it all out, go upstairs, and run it, but jsut be real gentle with that keg so you don't shake up sediment. Another option would be to make a beer-to-beer jumper, and run it to a chilled sanitized emtpy keg, leaving most of the sediment behind after a good cold conditioning. Get the carbonation right on the new keg and them move that for bottling
the 5g of beer should hold temp fairly well for an hour operation. Have a friend handy to cap and you can crank them out easily enough.
the 5g of beer should hold temp fairly well for an hour operation. Have a friend handy to cap and you can crank them out easily enough.
Awesome DYI setup. I purchased the 5FT NB picnic tap and a spare cane and assembled this for around $15. Worked like a charm. I can finally send some home brew around the country to my friends. Thank you for sharing this awesome, simple, perfect project.
TimBrewz
Well-Known Member
Thanks for this filler! I was stressing about bottle conditioning some brews with only 2 weeks to go before a homebrew comp. and the BMBF is exactly what I needed...just force carb and bottle with stuff I already own. I will report back about competition notes about carbonation levels.
Awesome, Thanks again.
Tim
Awesome, Thanks again.
Tim
OP
OP
By the way...
Filled up a couple of 22-ouncers and a 6-pack yesterday for a friend. I'm thoroughly convinced that a simple cold water rinse of the bottles just prior to filling is the best way to retard foaming.
Filled up a couple of 22-ouncers and a 6-pack yesterday for a friend. I'm thoroughly convinced that a simple cold water rinse of the bottles just prior to filling is the best way to retard foaming.
in lieu of sanitizing?
*shiver*
I could go for taking my heat-sterilized foil-topped bottles, chilling them in the fridge, and then spraying down with cold starsan. Actually I just skip the starsan step, rip off the foil top and fill. I did some bohemian pilsners this weekend that had been pouring at minimum 1/3 head in the glass, just 1/4" of foam in bottle, and of course you need a bit there anyway, so just perfect. I only had to tap on one to get the last bit of foam I wanted.
OP
OP
I sanitize and store upside down on a paper towel lined milk crate.
No bugs in my water. I'v bottled upwards of 20 cases worth without a single off flavor. Some of my bottles are better than 2 years old and still taste fresh as a daisy.
jmulligan
Well-Known Member
I know someone brought up using a bottle filler wand, and so, out of curiosity I hooked mine up and gave it a shot (because I did not have the proper drilled bung). Worked great! 
bulletproof4age
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Not sure if this was discussed yet, and I apologize if it was.
BM, have you tried this yet with the epoxy mixer in your dip tube? I would think that it would only help maintain proper carbonation in solution during transfer, no?
Obviously, it works without, but it couldn't hurt? I know you had mixed reviews in normal application b/c you already have long lines. If you are using your already long lines for your BMBF than again, it might not be necessary for you, but those using 1' lines with a picnic tap, it might help.
BM, have you tried this yet with the epoxy mixer in your dip tube? I would think that it would only help maintain proper carbonation in solution during transfer, no?
Obviously, it works without, but it couldn't hurt? I know you had mixed reviews in normal application b/c you already have long lines. If you are using your already long lines for your BMBF than again, it might not be necessary for you, but those using 1' lines with a picnic tap, it might help.
OP
OP
Different beers in different kegs under different carbonation levels make a stopper almost necessary for me.
If I'm positive my beer is not going to flow too fast, and not going to foam, I suppose eliminating the stopper is okay...but then again...why?
It's already part of my set up.
The stopper lets me regulate the flow rate...slow the flow as it approaches full...and stop the flow completely once filled so I can close the picnic tap and remove.
Cool. wouldn't a bottle wand with the thing on the end do the same? It's funny but I cut that end off of one of my bottle wands to make this.
Think I could have left it the way it was and used it that way.
MikeG
Well-Known Member
Cold water rinse on just the outside?
OP
OP
No...inside (and outside).
Donner
Well-Known Member
This will probably sound like a dumb question, but i don't have a racking cane that i want to cut the end of right now and i don't really have a LHBS to just run to. Would this still work if i just didn't push the wand all the way to the bottom? I mean i know i would want it near the bottom to avoid the beer hitting too hard and causing the CO2 to break out of solution, but would leaving a small distance work or is there something i am missing or don't know about with this process?
OP
OP
Keep more pressure on the stopper to really slow the flow.
Tilt the racking can so it is resting on the bottom...but in the "corner" of the bottle's bottom.
That should give you enough clearance to let the beer flow freely. I'd resist lifting it off of the bottom for fear of splashing that first ounce or two.
AFAJ Brew Guy
Well-Known Member
I used the BMBF just last night for the first time. What a thing of beauty. SWMBO was heading over to her friends house and she wanted to take some beer. I told her to hold on and I will fill her a couple. Filled 2 1 litre bottles for her. I had a little bit of foaming as it was my first time, but I think it will work perfectly once I get the stopper figured out.
so, I filled a bottle with my kegged mead for a party this weekend, then realized that by changing out the stopper I could fill growlers the same way.
both disappeared fast at party. Gotta remember to go pick up my growler sometime soon. (staggered home without it)
both disappeared fast at party. Gotta remember to go pick up my growler sometime soon. (staggered home without it)
aaastinkie
New Member
I used mine for the first time yesterday to do 37 Grolsch bottles of RootBeer, I filled the bottles in 1/2 hour!! I was using a bottle wand the same way before and it caused foaming, this way is the way to go, glad I didn't buy the beer gun!!
Ceedubya
Well-Known Member
So I needed an empty keg, so I ealier this week I decided to bust out the BMBF on the last of the turle wheat in the fridge. I poured one for myself and started washing bottles, tap, cane, etc.
Poured myself another and started sanitizing. Put the stout that I wanted to rack into the keg once empty so it would settle before I racked, and poured myself another wheat.
long story short, the 12 pack I expected to get out of the last of this beer turned into a 3 pack
Oh well, keg was emptied and I got to enjoy some good homebrew
I gave the three that I did manage to get from the keg to a client of my wife's who works for one of the local beer distributors.
Poured myself another and started sanitizing. Put the stout that I wanted to rack into the keg once empty so it would settle before I racked, and poured myself another wheat.
long story short, the 12 pack I expected to get out of the last of this beer turned into a 3 pack
Oh well, keg was emptied and I got to enjoy some good homebrew
I gave the three that I did manage to get from the keg to a client of my wife's who works for one of the local beer distributors.
I have four mini kegs laying around and 5 cornys to go into my new 4 corny capable keezer-wannabe (8.8 CF Kenmore). I have bottles, but paid $75 or so for these mini kegs and want to use them.
The principles should be the same, except - I won't be able to see the beer getting to the top as in a bottle. Should I just fill until the next stopper nudge spits liquid and then press in the bung?
One keg will be Apfelschorle for the kids and DD's (party Saturday coming up), so maybe that would be wiser to try in the mini-kegs?
Anyone else tried to fill these with kegged beer?
Cheers
The principles should be the same, except - I won't be able to see the beer getting to the top as in a bottle. Should I just fill until the next stopper nudge spits liquid and then press in the bung?
One keg will be Apfelschorle for the kids and DD's (party Saturday coming up), so maybe that would be wiser to try in the mini-kegs?
Anyone else tried to fill these with kegged beer?
Cheers
TimBrewz
Well-Known Member
Just wanted to let you know that my first foray into using the BMBF was to enter the Slurp and Burp Open in Portland. I won a gold for one of my beers that was filled with the BMBF! Thank you!
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