I typically use 1.25 quarts per pound, and have been very happy with it. I also batch sparge, and have no plans to change to fly sparging.modenacart said:A thinner mash (more than 2 qts/ lb grain) will dilute the concentration of enzymes, taking longer to convert starches to suger, but giving a more fermentable mash, a thicker mash (less than 1.25 qts/ lb grain) will give convert a lot faster, giver a sweeter finished beer.
I batch sparge and have been very happy with it so far. The second time I did it I got 79% efficiency, but the other times have been about 73%, same as I was getting fly sparging.
I get the opposite. I find I have much more control over fermentability by changing temperature then changing water:grain ratio. I wonder if that is a system thing? I do a single step infusion, mash out and batch sparge.ajf said:For English style Pale Ales, 1 US qt per lb. I find that mashing at 150 and 1 qt per lb produces a much more dextrinous wort than mashing at 155 and 1.25 qts per lb.
I think that's fine in this case- I don't think there is anything wrong with doing steeping grains that way. I've read (I think in John Palmer's book, but not sure) that too much water with steeping grains can lead to astringency due to ph issues, but I've never known anyone to actually experience it.homebrewer_99 said:How does that work with steeping grains?
Typically (sometimes), I use up to 2 lbs of grain for my lighter brews and steep in 1 gal of water and sparge with another gallon.
The wort is sweet after straining so I just continue doing it that way.
Since I normally only boil 1.5-2 gals anyway I figured 2 lbs of grain equal 1.2 lbs of DME and my gravity is still close to 1.040.
Since I also do late addition I'll just boil the grain wort for 45 mins before adding the DME to steep for 15.
Anyone see anything wrong with that method or an I using too much water for my wort?
I'm wondering if it's a temperature thing, rather than a water/grain ratio. Also, since you have so much sodium and a high mash PH, I'd look there before thinking it's the grain ratio.MODENACART said:Reason I am asking is because I never get the Iodine test to work. I was thinking maybe it was my water/grain ratio.
You have a water problem . You have high bicarbonate but almost no Ca++ or Mg+ ions that will counteract it and help bring the pH down. I calculate your mash pH to be 6.12, assuming you add no dark, specialty grains. In your situation I would get DI or RO water and then add salts to it to get a water profile that will work with the styles of beer you brew. Ray Daniels book has an excellent chapter covering this.modenacart said:My water is
All ppm of course.
I mash at about 149-156 F. I direct fire when I need heat so I don't get under 149. Even after mashing two hours I still get black when doing Iodine test. It doesn't make sense. I recirculate about 2 qts before I tested last time so I know it was clear.