Water Report, next steps

[demetman]

Hello, just received my report and I'm trying to figure out what my next steps are for brewing adjustments. You guys always have expert advice and opinions so please take a look. My source is well water. I bypassed my two stage water softening system for this sample. I'm new to brewing but determined to start all grain asap. Brewed several extracts and a few partial mash kits. I'm all set up with beersmith and the equipment to brew all grain. just a little overwhelmed with water chemistry at the moment.

Is there any big concerns with my well water for brewing all grain? I have been using bottled water for extract and partial mash. Would you guys suggest using a carbon water filter at the tap? Your comments and suggestions are appreciated

pH 5.7
TDS 267
Electrical Conductivity 0 .44
Cations/Anions,me/L 4.1/3.9

ppm
Sodium,Na 58
Potassium, K 3
Calcium, Ca 8
Magnesium, Mg 13
Total Hardness, CaCO3 74
Nitrate NO3-N 0.8(SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 2
Chloride, Cl 113
Carbonate, CO3 <1.0
Bicarbonate, HCO3 27
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 22
Total Phosphorus, P <0.01
Total Iron, Fe 0.06

 

[ajdelange]

The main problem I see is that you have had some incursion from the sea resulting in 2.5 mEq/L and 3.2 mEq/L chloride while the calcium is only 0.4 mEq/L. While you can brew beers with calcium that low most will want it at at least 1 (20 mg/L) and often up to 2 or more. Because your chloride is already high you are pretty much limited to using calcium sulfate (gypsum) for calcium augmentation and that is fine if you like sulfate and the beer you are brewing tolerates it.

The good news is the low alkalinity (0.44 mEq/L). Putting that together with the sodium chloride situation and low sulfate says you should be able to brew pale ales and even some lagers without much beyond some gypsum additions for the former and not even that for the latter.

Cutting this with 1:1 RO will get the chloride down to 56 mg/L and 1:2 would get it down to 37 mg/L and the sodium down to about 20 but would pretty much wipe out everything else so that calcium supplementation would be a must. You would still have to be somewhat circumspect with the use of CaCl2.

Unless the water is stinky there is little point in a carbon filter.

 

[demetman]

Thank you for the reply ajdelange. I find it remarkable that my well water may have had some incursion from a salt water source. I live 5 miles from the ocean, but only 1.5 miles from some back bay channels. We recently had a coastal Noreaster which caused major flooding in the nearby coastal towns. I guess I'm more impressed with the fact that you simply looked at my water report and detected an incursion from the chloride and calcium levels. All new info to me.

I'm not to familiar with the conversions you have used.(mEq/L etc) I have only a very remedial background with chemistry and such. I have read and am currently re-reading J Palmer's how to brew and specifically, understanding the mash pH chapter. I also have been talking to the brewers of a small craft micro brewery located 1 mile from my house. They have been open for 6 months a currently offer 7 different varieties of beer. All very well crafted. Their source water is well and they claim to not do much to their water for brewing. They said the water quality was great for brewing. I haven't had a chance to ask them to compare their report to mine, but I can't imagine it would be too much different. I am having a new well drilled in April, so I'm not sure if that will change anything.

Do you recommend some sort of water chemistry software for adjustments. I have looked at ezwater calculator, but without imputing a recipe its useless. The brewsmith water section makes little sense unless you know exactly what a specific base water profile is best for brewing a specific style. Not so newbie friendly. From what i gather, I should start out with a pale beer and look at cutting my water supply 1:1 and a simple gypsum addition. Any other recommendations to consider before I dive into my first all grain batch? Thanks in advance.

 

[ajdelange]

Thank you for the reply ajdelange. I find it remarkable that my well water may have had some incursion from a salt water source. I live 5 miles from the ocean, but only 1.5 miles from some back bay channels. We recently had a coastal Noreaster which caused major flooding in the nearby coastal towns. I guess I'm more impressed with the fact that you simply looked at my water report and detected an incursion from the chloride and calcium levels. All new info to me.

It's a guess, of course. Could be from heavy salting of the roads but it is clear that there is NaCl involved somehow and as you are near the ocean....

I'm not to familiar with the conversions you have used.(mEq/L etc)

Eq stands for Equivalent which is a very hand unit as 1 equivalent of A reacts with 1 Equivalent of B. In particular, if you have 1 mEq alkalinity it's going to take about 1 mEq of acid to deal with it in setting mash pH. To get alkalinity in equivalents divide ppm as CaCO3 by 50. Do the same for calcium and magnesium hardnesses. For calcium concentration (mg/L) divide by 20, the equivalent weight of calcium. For mangesium the number is 12.35. For sodium 23 etc.

Do you recommend some sort of water chemistry software for adjustments.

No, I have my own which does just exactly what I want done the way I want it done. But you shouldn't need a spreadsheet or calculator starting out. Just cut your water with enough RO to get the alkalinity down to say 20 or less (1 mEq.) and follow the Primer from there. As you gain knowledge and experience revisit some of the spreadsheets/calculators.

 

[demetman]

Sounds like a plan..Just a few more questions. May I assume that distilled water can be used to dilute my well water in the event that RO is not available? I can't find RO water anywhere around here. I have been using Gerber Pure, water with minerals for taste. It contains purified water, magnesium sulfate, potassium bicarbonate, and calcium chloride. I'm guessing that this water would be detrimental to dilute my well water for all grain brewing, as my chloride level is already high.

My proposed first all grain recipe is taken from Mike Karnowski's book Home Brew Beyond The Basics.
Malverde IPA 5gal, OG:1.068, FG:1.011, IBU:70
12 gal filtered brewing water
16# North American 2-row
1# German Melanoidin
22 alpha acid Columbus 75min
5.5 alpha acid Centennial 15min
6 alpha acids Simcoe 5 min
1/2 oz each Citra, Centennial, Simcoe end of boil
1oz each Simcoe, Columbus, Citra and Chinook (dry hop)
1 Whirlflock tablet
California Ale WLP001/ American Ale WY1056 yeast-2L starter

Now, if I dilute my well water 1:1 with distilled water I can assume my minerals will be cut in half (at the rate of dilution)? Since my Calcium will be 4ppm, how would I adjust this to the recommended brewing range of 50-100ppm with gypsum? Magnesium with be deficient at 6.5ppm. With the required 2L yeast starter, I always add 1/4 teaspoon LD Carlson yeast energizer. Is this enough to bring the magnesium into a healthy brewing range of 10-30ppm? The last concern is the Sulfate level in regards to brewing this moderately bitter IPA. I am assuming I need to bring my sulfate up into the recommended brewing range of 150-300 for very bitter beers. How would you recommend I handle that? Bicarbonate at 23.5ppm looks to in line for a pale beer.

I do appreciate your help with my questions. Anytime I google a brewing inquiry, I seem to find the answer at homebrew.com and many times you were the one to evaluate and answer. This has been a great resource and a wealth of information for me in the few months I have been brewing. Thanks again.
Demetrios

 

[ajdelange]

I assume that distilled water can be used to dilute my well water in the event that RO is not available? I can't find RO water anywhere around here. I have been using Gerber Pure, water with minerals for taste. It contains purified water, magnesium sulfate, potassium bicarbonate, and calcium chloride. I'm guessing that this water would be detrimental to dilute my well water for all grain brewing, as my chloride level is already high.

I'd worry more about the bicarbonate addition. Distilled water is fine.

My proposed first all grain recipe is taken from Mike Karnowski's book Home Brew Beyond The Basics.
Malverde IPA 5gal, OG:1.068, FG:1.011, IBU:70
12 gal filtered brewing water
16# North American 2-row
1# German Melanoidin
22 alpha acid Columbus 75min
5.5 alpha acid Centennial 15min
6 alpha acids Simcoe 5 min
1/2 oz each Citra, Centennial, Simcoe end of boil
1oz each Simcoe, Columbus, Citra and Chinook (dry hop)
1 Whirlflock tablet
California Ale WLP001/ American Ale WY1056 yeast-2L starter

Now, if I dilute my well water 1:1 with distilled water I can assume my minerals will be cut in half (at the rate of dilution)?

Yes.

Since my Calcium will be 4ppm, how would I adjust this to the recommended brewing range of 50-100ppm with gypsum?

I'd just add a teaspoonful of gypsum per 5 gal of water (diluted) treated. x

Magnesium with be deficient at 6.5ppm. With the required 2L yeast starter, I always add 1/4 teaspoon LD Carlson yeast energizer. Is this enough to bring the magnesium into a healthy brewing range of 10-30ppm?

Don't worry about magnesium. Malt contains plenty

The last concern is the Sulfate level in regards to brewing this moderately bitter IPA. I am assuming I need to bring my sulfate up into the recommended brewing range of 150-300 for very bitter beers. How would you recommend I handle that?

The gypsum will augment the calcium and the sulfate. Taste test with additional sulfate once you have the beer finished.

Bicarbonate at 23.5ppm looks to in line for a pale beer.

Alkalinity is going to be cut in half (with 1:1 dilution) as is everything else. This is good. Even so you will need some sauermalz to neutralize malt alkalinity. About 2% of the weight of the other grains should do.