beernutz... thanks for your deligence to the homebrewing hobby!
Want to repair a Schmedling unadjustable Maltmill
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My JSP i've been using for 15 years, that stupid o-ring broke first use. all i need to do to get it too engage though is get my drill running which has a speed lock trigger, and permentaly attached. i use a pairing knife to just move the free roller. i'd imagine you could take that sides particle board off, and use a hax saw blade to keep it aligned as i had to anyway....then just use your finger to turn the free roller to get it to catch?
dwhite60
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My old Valley Mill has only one driven roller. The other turns from grain getting pinched between it and the driven roller.
I do believe the O ring helps the rollers to turn.
It may, though it would clearly be a crutch of sorts, and would likely end up in a mash eventually.
fwiw, my Barley Crusher came with an o-ring on the passive roller. The manufacturer stated it was there only for post-assembly tuning and not an otherwise functional part. It fell off on the second batch. I milled well over 2000 pounds of grain over ten years without it...
Cheers!
fwiw, my Barley Crusher came with an o-ring on the passive roller. The manufacturer stated it was there only for post-assembly tuning and not an otherwise functional part. It fell off on the second batch. I milled well over 2000 pounds of grain over ten years without it...
Cheers!
VikeMan
It ain't all burritos and strippers, my friend.
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Yep. A little history... O-rings on homebrew grain mill rollers became a thing way back in the early Schmidling malt mill days, when the roller knurling design was less effective. In those days, the O-ring was actually pretty much necessary. After the knurl design changed, the O-ring was still installed, since it allows the rollers/bearings to be tested without crushing grains. Barley Crusher and perhaps others followed suit.
IIRC, the original O-ring on my ancient Schmidling mill fell off during batch 2 or 3.
michaeltrego
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip! I just replaced the original bushings with these and it sounds so much better.
Hey! I need to rebuild my 25yr old JSP. It's been reliable, but my efficiency is near 60%. Is the shaft 1/2 or 3/8? I'd love to get new bushing for my JSP! Also, did you upgrade your hooper? I'd love to find way to get a 10# hopper on here.
I just went back through this thread and found your link...Sorry.
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Schmidling seems like a renaissance man. He made all sorts of stuff in his barn.
He's been doing the beer thing for a long time. Click this link and you can see him discussing brewing in the venerable homebrew digest, the predecessor to this forum (but it's the post 3 above his that you should look at carefully, and be prepared for a bit of fun historyI guess it's only interesting if you know who John Palmer is)
http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/1192.html#1192-9
I bought his geared version back in 2003 or 2004. Its still going strong, about like new. I don’t put the wear on it that many others do, I brew 3 gallon batches and am typically grinding 6-8 lbs of grain at a time. I might fill that 2 lb hopper 3 1/2 times.
Was he the one also making the Phil’s Philler? Thats the thing I would love to get another one of.
I haven’t seen a Valley Mill in 20 years. Thanks for sharing.
I also have an original Phil Mill. The one you were supposed to cut the bottom off of a 2 liter soda bottle and stick the neck in the hole and secure it with a wood screw. Haven’t used it since forever, but I still have it. That was my first grain mill
No idea. I've brewed a lot over the years since I bought that schmidling from my local homebrew shop.
The new one though is way more better!!! Get with the living yo.
PCABrewing
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I too started with a Phils Mill.
I worked pretty well for its simplicity, and it had "tool-less" adjustment.
I gave it to a work colleague who was just getting started.
I also gave him a Phalse Bottom and a Phil's filler.
My first mill was the Barley Crusher. It worked fine for many years then started to act up, not pulling the grain through all of the time. Cleaning the rollers which helped a little but then I contacted the manufacture who had me go through the same cleaning process I had already done. So tried again but then sent it in for a rebuild. I'm not sure what he rebuilt but it didn't work much better. I paid to ship it and the return shipping, so I wasn't about to send it back.
I had an old JSP mill in a box I dug out and put to use. That thing works great. No idea how old it is but I'll run it until it's death and maybe replace it with a Monster mil.
I had an old JSP mill in a box I dug out and put to use. That thing works great. No idea how old it is but I'll run it until it's death and maybe replace it with a Monster mil.
Like I said I’m brewing 3 gallon batches and my typical grain bill is 6-8 lbs total, depending on what I’m brewing. I have the Anvil Foundry 6.5, the thing only has an 8 lb grain capacity. That can get me to about 1.058-1.060. Then if I want to go higher I have to supplement with extract. So this old JSP is fine, probably more than I need and it will probably outlive me. I don’t see a need to replace it to grind a few pounds of grain.
The Phils Philler I spoke of was a stainless steel bottling wand they used to make. It was cool because the valve to work it was at the top. It never leaked, could be sanitized better and even boiled if you had to. I had one and then I stopped bottling for a few years when I got my keg setup. It disappeared, I don’t know what happened to it. But I would love to have another one of those. The Phil Mill says Listerman so I’m guessing the Phil’s Philler was too.
To be honest, I stretched out my JSP for a long time. When it wouldn't grab the grain anymore, I flipped the rollers and ran it backwards - or some nonsense like that.
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