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Walk-In Cooler Size?

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rolandj

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The girlfriend and I are going to be building a house next year. We are in the design phase and i want to get it right the first time.

We are going to have a bar room and want to put a walk-in cooler behind the bar. I hope to end up with about 8 brews on tap. I can make it as big as i want, but i do not want to make is way to big. (If thats possible)

What would be a reasonable size, or what have some done that they found was enough room.

My hope is 8 kegs tapped and maybe 4 on standby. Then a few shelves for bottles.
 
How are you going to be cooling the room? That may determine how big you go. I'm going to be doing something similar and I'll be using a window AC. So I'm looking at where I'll put the AC and how much room I'll have that will determine the unit I can get and my room size.
 
I was thinking of going with a Coolbot and a Haier windows a/c unit. There is a 24,000 BTU one that coolbot recommends. It is probably a little bigger than i need but i would rather my beer stay cold.

Plus we could decide to store some vegetables in there longer term. Or other food items that wont impart unpleasant odour to the beer.
 
Lets do some math:

8 kegs on tap realistically 1 sq ft per keg so either 8' x 1' or 4' x 1' (stacking two high)
How many kegs will be "on deck"? Let's assume 8 kegs so another 8 sq ft.
What about bottle storage and food storage and lagering?

My best guess assuming very little non-beer storage would be as follows for interior dimension assuming an outward opening door:

8' x 6'

This gives you 1' x 8' on the front wall for double stack of kegs (8 serving 8 aging). 2' on the back wall for bottle, fermenter and misc storage. 3' walkway.

P.S. For not much more money or work a walk-in cooler can be an approved tornado/hurricane shelter. The two biggest adders that have to be considered NOW in the planning stages are a second form of egress and two sources of fresh air. A normal framed wall can be upgraded to correct spec by just having 3/4" plywood on the outside and inside (usually under the drywall) and the entire stud frame has to have appropriate connectors/anchor bolts of uplift.
 
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