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Vintage Kelvinator freezer restoration

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Well... You guys will probably react like, WTF?? Cause this thread is back up again but between recent training, deployment overseas, and new orders to Ft Bragg, NC... I've been a bit busy. I do want to appologize for the distance between posts and the progress on my project. But WAIT, all that did was enhance me with some additional tools to make this project turn out a little better...

My new neighbor (and drinking buddy) here in Fayetteville has afforded me the opportunity to use his shop behind his home to continue my project. And not to mention, he has sand blasting, welding, and painting equipment with graphics design.. so this should turn out a little cooler than expected!

In between drinking good beer, we will be working on his 64 Ford and the Kelvinator! This thread should become alive once more!!

Thanks for all your patience! Progress and pics to come soon...
:tank:

Brian
 
I spent a long time trying to figure out the best way to get the insulation out with out damaging any of the lines or structure of the freezer. I was then granted some wisdom from a friend, why not break it up with a crobar and suck it out with a shop vac? Worked very well and it all came out with ease.

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Well, I have found out that using an old batch of AeroMarine 2 part foam insulation doesn't do much. I finally got around to that after almost two years and we mixed the two parts and poured them in with little to no expansion in the foam up the walls. I have a new batch of 2 part AeroMarine insulation on order to be shipped soon.

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Be careful working with this product. It can be very messy and whatever it drips onto, it pretty much belongs there now.. lol

It is a very fast paced mix and pour. Be sure that you watch the how to videos online prior to using this product. They say that it starts activating about 30 seconds after mixing but I suggest mixing as fast as possible until it becomes like a pancake batter color. Once it starts to get the same consistancy of "pancake batter", it is very difficult to pour and control where you want it to go. It seemed a little easier pouring it just before it got to that point.

Again, this was almost a two year old product. So when the new stuff comes in, I may have different results.
 
If you notice, the inside freezer compartment sits on what appears to be 1"x6" treated wood frame. The compartment is not screwed down to this and there is nothing other than the insulation holding the boards upright. This means that the inside compartment is freestanding and can shift on you during your work. All I did was have my neighbor hold the inside compartment exactly where we wanted it during the pour and expansion of the foam insulation. We will continue to do the same process when we finish with the new insulation.

I am not concerned with any movement after the insulation sets up and hardens because this stuff is hard as a rock when set.
 
The goal is to complete this project within the next month and to keep the restoration cost under $200. Then I have figured about another $400 for the completion of the system to total $600 and about 48 man hours in time.

Well that goal was horribly off. Almost two years later... Oh and not to mention, I started pricing everything that I need for the draft system, restoration parts, sanding/painting supplies, etc... and I am going to be about 3 times the $600 total I was aiming for.

:mug:
 
Just got off the phone with a tech at AeroMarine and found out that the reason the first attempt of foam insulation did not expand as much as it should have was due to the outside temperature. The day I did this, it was about 60 degrees outside and the bottles of polyurethane foam had been sitting in the garage at very low temps. Before I used them, I should have let them get up to atleast 70 degrees. This specific product expands to its fullest at 75 degrees.

I also found out that I am not the only person that has and or will be using this product in a freezer. The temperature ranges of a freezer are well within the limits that the polyurethane can handle. And working with such an old appliance, my other concern was how combustable it might be. When held to an open flame, the foam will simply just char and break down. So that eases the mind for fear of a possible electrical fire.

The 2# polyurethane foam yeilded an R-rating of 7, and the tech was unsure of the thickness of the foam when tested. She also went on to say that the 2# is more than enough for a freezer.
 
Its amazing to see where this thing transferred from two years ago... I am finally at just a cosmetic stage. Here is a glimpse of where I am now:

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So the pour in foam insulation was an experience. With little to no guidance/training on using this product, I have a lot to discuss...

As stated before, it is important that you use a fresh product and maintain temps between 70-75 degrees on both the product, equipment and air temperature. It expands a lot better and you get full utilization out of the entire product. Also, this product is a fast paced process, so do not think you have any extra time to do anything else but foam insulation. The following pics is of my process:

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Mix Part A with Part B... It only takes a few seconds (maybe 15-30 seconds) to create a pancake like batter mix. Then its ready to pour. If you feel it begin to thicken up, move fast and get it where you want it because it has already started to activate:

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It rises about 6-10" for every 1/4" pour. I really needed about two of the 1 gallon purchases from Aero Marine. I had to use spray foam insulation in the lid which turned out not so good...

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With the insulation in, I was able to finally started scraping and stripping off the paint. I was afraid to put any pressure on the outside body of the freezer for a few reasons. I didn't want to warp or put any more dents in the surface than it already had and I also didnt want to disturb any of the inside coolant lines as they are obviously old...

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Prior to the foam insulation, I had to ensure that all holes and prep work was complete because I did not want to guess where the coolant lines were located. With that, I prefit the tap tower:

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Then it was time to fix the broken lid... Did some fiberglass work to re-enforce it and bring it back to the original condition:

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Then its time to lay on the main color, Guardsman Blue. The paint theme I went with was the old AC Cobra paint job which was one of my favorites... AC Cobra developed into the Shelby Cobra in the late 60's/early 70's if I remember right. Todays Mustangs have reversed the paint scheme with Guardsman blue stripes on white paint:

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It was tricky getting the metalic paint just right... There were several attempts to get the tiger striping out. We learned that taking your time with even 50/50 overlay sprays and crossing over with light coats helped a lot! We even let it sit in the sun for a few minutes to help lay out the layers of paint. Not very experienced with painting but it seemed to work out in our favor, Thank God!!
 
And that is how she sits now... Next is to finish all the cosmetic stuff like polishing the original chrome Kelvinator emblems, new wood inside ledge, new alluminum sill plate, refinishing the original hinges, new lid gasket, wheels and other minor stuff all in the next couple of weeks before I deploy overseas so I can atleast pour one brew off my new found friend! LOL, just to think... I got this off of craigslist two years ago for $10. $2,000 later and here are the before and after pics up to this point:

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