Used kegs v new kegs

[TVsn95]

I have a sanke coupler with back flow preventer balls removed for cleaning. Just hook up a garden hose and set it on cinder blocks upside down....

The most I've ever paid for a sanke on craigslist is $30. Most people just want them out of their garage. Considering the times were living in, I doubt I'm going to get swept up in a Keg Sting.....

$30 is what my deposits are,,,,and if I need to I can get that back anytime

 

[cubalz]

I reuse commercial kegs , I just keep them after buying full of something i want to try. The deposit is $30. I built my own tools to remove the Sankey spear and clean up is very simple and reassembly is accomplished with the same tools. its like money in the bank I can return whenever and get back my deposit.
[/QUOTE
You know this is dishonest whether you take them back at some point or not. Regardless, my gut says that you never have taken any back. Ever.

 

[golfindia]

$30 is what my deposits are,,,,and if I need to I can get that back anytime

Last time I got a keg the deposit was $100... When I worked in a restaurant 25 years ago the distributor keg deposit was more than $30.

 

[pvpeacock]

 

[bracconiere]

If you ever have a rubber handle or base falling off, I recommend using this to fix it. I bought a bunch of "loose handle" kegs on sale and this worked wonders.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063X38M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1View attachment 691852

thanks for the tip!

 

[TVsn95]

You would be wrong, I am picky about the ones I use. I like the Microstar. I take the others back. also please explain to me how paying a deposit and getting it back is dishonest? with all the rules for getting kegs these days , I keep the receipts.
Wow, $100 for a small or any keg,,,,,,I do have to pay $55 deposit for some. depends on the beer inside. I attached a pict of my homemade tool

View attachment 691855View attachment 691855

 

[TVsn95]

My homemade Sankey tool

 

[hankinsonk]

My homemade Sankey tool

Got build instructions / parts list?

 

[augiedoggy]

Last time I got a keg the deposit was $100... When I worked in a restaurant 25 years ago the distributor keg deposit was more than $30.

It dropped back down.. the crazy high deposit rule did not have the desired effect they were going for.. people were returning the kegs but fewer were buying them too so they reverted to older deposit prices. To be fair one reason we dont currently sell kegs of beer is I hear stories from other small breweries how long it sometimes it takes to get their kegs back and how they are sometimes forced to buy more in the mean time.

 

[TVsn95]

It dropped back down.. the crazy high deposit rule did not have the desired effect they were going for.. people were returning the kegs but fewer were buying them too so they reverted to older deposit prices. To be fair one reason we dont currently sell kegs of beer is I hear stories from other small breweries how long it sometimes it takes to get their kegs back and how they are sometimes forced to buy more in the mean time.

I do understand,,,,budget budget

 

[TVsn95]

Got build instructions / parts list?

I do not, BUT I will assemble some spec's and post it . I am slow so give me some time. It's a cool piece

 

[HopSing]

Well, that's sad! Sounds more like a commercial than an objective report..... I've had 4 used kegs from a variety of sources for more than 11 years of home brewing and they still work fine. I believe the secret (if there is one) is basic cleaning and sterilizing plus regular stripping down, replacing O-rings, etc. The whole idea of used kegs is a gift for those of us who are trying to keep down the cost per glass of homebrew. Thank you to the suppliers.

LOL. I can assure you I'm not on the payroll of any new keg manufacturer. I can also assure you I have several used kegs in my fleet that have worked flawlessly. My point was simply if you buy used you also buy how they were used and stored. That is not always conducive to good beer making. In my case, basic cleaning, sterilization, and replacing O-Rings would not have reduced the risk associated with the hidden rodents nest I found in a used keg. Serving a batch of Brown Ale Hantavirus or Salmonellosis IPA to my family and friends is not high on my to-do list. If you're willing to take that risk, good on ya. It's not worth a $40 price difference for me.

Gladly most used kegs are completely safe to use and do offer a good value. My objective advice to the OP was to source kegs, new or used, from a reputable outlet until you have gained the experience of what to look for when buying used from a private party. The additional cost per glass over the lifetime of the keg is pennies.

~HopSing.

 

[LittleRiver]

I went with all new kegs from AIH. They were only $75 each.

To me it was well worth it to start out with new kegs. They've given me zero problems.

 

[golfindia]

Ironically, I scored two 7.75 gal sankes this morning courtesy of craigslist......

 

[TVsn95]

Got build instructions / parts list?

 

[TVsn95]

I had to ZIP the file, hope that helps

 

[JAReeves]

I am using all used kegs from various purchases, almost all of them sourced from private sellers here on homebrewtalk. Other than one leaking lid, I have had no issues, and they averaged out to be $40. + $5. new keg seals/O-rings.

My question is this: how often do you change the rubber seals & O-rings on a keg? Is it a time frame or a # of batches run through the keg?

Peace,

Reevesie

 

[Beermeister32]

The O-rings on the posts and dip tubes replace maybe every 2 years. Can't say that I've ever had to replace the lid O-ring, it is a bit overkill for the task, and will likely last many years.

 

[bracconiere]

My question is this: how often do you change the rubber seals & O-rings on a keg? Is it a time frame or a # of batches run through the keg?

these days....when i notice my scale losing more than an ounce of co2.....or i have a fridge filled with beer, but that's a poppet.....lol

 

[David Baker]

The O-rings on the posts and dip tubes replace maybe every 2 years. Can't say that I've ever had to replace the lid O-ring, it is a bit overkill for the task, and will likely last many years.

I am using all used kegs from various purchases, almost all of them sourced from private sellers here on homebrewtalk. Other than one leaking lid, I have had no issues, and they averaged out to be $40. + $5. new keg seals/O-rings.

My question is this: how often do you change the rubber seals & O-rings on a keg? Is it a time frame or a # of batches run through the keg?

Peace,

Reevesie
The question resembles the one about "How long is a piece of string?" In 11 years and with 6 kegs I have changed a keg lid gasket once while O-rings and poppets maybe 3 times. Take care of them and they will serve you well.

 

[Kerrinhelix]

I have bought new and used of various styles. In general, used ones are fine - but I have had some that were better or worse. All of the more recent kegs I have purchased, I have purchased new as it is nice not to have to mess with them in terms of cleaning, or replacing parts, etc.
I have several of these new ones from Mumm Products inc and have been very pleased with them. (Sometimes the are on sale for even a bit cheaper)

 

[gnef]

I am using all used kegs from various purchases, almost all of them sourced from private sellers here on homebrewtalk. Other than one leaking lid, I have had no issues, and they averaged out to be $40. + $5. new keg seals/O-rings.

My question is this: how often do you change the rubber seals & O-rings on a keg? Is it a time frame or a # of batches run through the keg?

Peace,

Reevesie

When I first buy used kegs, I always refurbish them myself with new seals, but only the poppets if they leak or look/smell bad. After that, I replace as necessary, whether that is a leak or visible damage. I keep spare o-rings in bulk, as well as universal poppets. I actually also keep spare liquid and gas dip tubes as well as posts (both ball lock and pin lock of the different thread pitches), and also lids and pressure relief valves.

When I store a keg after use, I let it dry out, and then I pressurize it for long term storage (I'm not as concerned as others about o-ring compression). The reason why I do this is so that the next time I go to use a keg, I release the pressure - if there is no pressure, I immediately know that there is a leak, and I need to use a different keg, and set that one aside to find the leak to fix it. This was a way for me to increase my efficiency and make sure I am using kegs that seal well because otherwise it is difficult for me to keep track of all my kegs (I have 90 kegs).

 

[Beermeister32]

Great idea!

 

[Jayjay1976]

One of my brew buddies, an old hand with 1100+ batches under his belt, told me he doesn't bother with new kegs because the welding quality isn't as good as the older domestic stuff and presents a risk of infection. He owns probably 50-60 old kegs of all different types, though the ones I've seen look far better than the ratty used ones I own. He also said the supply of good, cheap used kegs dried up maybe a dozen years ago, though he might have meant locally; I've called around to a few soda bottling plants and distributors in my area and none of them had any used kegs for sale.

 

[cswant88]

I am using all used kegs from various purchases, almost all of them sourced from private sellers here on homebrewtalk. Other than one leaking lid, I have had no issues, and they averaged out to be $40. + $5. new keg seals/O-rings.

My question is this: how often do you change the rubber seals & O-rings on a keg? Is it a time frame or a # of batches run through the keg?

Peace,

Reevesie

Replace when visibly damaged or if they cannot hold pressure. Just the other day I had to replace the gas post o-ring on one of mine because I couldn't get it to stop leaking. New o-ring, no more leak. The old o-ring was maybe a year old and not visibly worn or damaged, sometimes they're just finicky that way. If your ball lock keg is leaking, 98 times out of 100 it's the gas post. Pull off the disconnect, lube up the o-ring, reinstall disconnect, this will usually take care of it. If it doesn't, yank the o-ring and replace it. Always keep spares on hand, they are cheap, buy in bulk from mcmaster carr. Try to leak check weekly, just shutoff the tank valve for 5 minutes and make sure the high pressure gauge stays put.

 

[Yesfan]

..........Always keep spares on hand, they are cheap, buy in bulk from mcmaster carr..............

This can not be overstated. I think I bought my used kegs before I got my starter kit when I got into the hobby. There's a sticky in the kegging section that lists the McMaster part numbers for the Orings. I bought a 100 of the dip tube and post Orings and a 10 pack of the lid Orings. The last three used kegs I recently got from Adventures, I went ahead and added the Oring kit as I was needing a few more lid Orings. The kits had the white Orings and I think they are thicker than the black ones.

I have, currently, 12 used kegs. What I got in a habit of doing is weigh them empty and full. I take some blue painters tape and mark those values on them and even number them (ex: Keg 1, 2, 3, etc..) so it's better to keep track of them whenever an issue arises. I also use shipping tags tied to the lid that tell me what kind of beer is in the keg and I write on the back of the tag a reminder to double check any leak issues if I have any.

I like filling by weight, especially after getting my conical. I just fill the keg until I hot the target weight I wrote on the painters tape. This allow me to get the maximum amount of beer in them.

 

[Jonakr]

This can not be overstated. I think I bought my used kegs before I got my starter kit when I got into the hobby. There's a sticky in the kegging section that lists the McMaster part numbers for the Orings. I bought a 100 of the dip tube and post Orings and a 10 pack of the lid Orings. The last three used kegs I recently got from Adventures, I went ahead and added the Oring kit as I was needing a few more lid Orings. The kits had the white Orings and I think they are thicker than the black ones.

I have, currently, 12 used kegs. What I got in a habit of doing is weigh them empty and full. I take some blue painters tape and mark those values on them and even number them (ex: Keg 1, 2, 3, etc..) so it's better to keep track of them whenever an issue arises. I also use shipping tags tied to the lid that tell me what kind of beer is in the keg and I write on the back of the tag a reminder to double check any leak issues if I have any.

I like filling by weight, especially after getting my conical. I just fill the keg until I hot the target weight I wrote on the painters tape. This allow me to get the maximum amount of beer in them.

I've got 5: 4 used, 1 new. I wrote empty weights on all of them with a Sharpie, but I got the Keg Level Indicators, so I just use those to tell when I'm getting low in any given keg. I just watch the "In" tube while filling, but I mostly do just shy of 5 gallon batches, so that doesn't matter too much.

I've replaced several of the rings, but found that a very thin layer of lube grease goes a long way to keeping kegs sealed. I had a few leaks found by too few kegs filled per CO2 tank. I tracked that down to both loose out posts as well as adapters, so I periodically check all connections for tightness now.

 

[toms_Jeep]

I started with used pin lock kegs. When I got my kegs I replaced all o-rings you don't know how old they are do not take a chance. As I needed more kegs I decided to switch to ball lock because I was able to fit 4 kegs in the fridge. Smaller diameter and a little taller.

After 3 years of dealing with back rubber on everything when they got wet, I was done. I tried using lacquer thinner, carb cleaner and then last I tried a propane torch. The torch worked by far the best I carefully heated the rubber just till I saw the color change a little and was careful not to burn it. This stopped most of the rubber marks on the floor and my hands.

Then I saw some blemished kegs on EBAY, sure the welds were not as pretty on the outside but the insides looked great. After getting these and not having any rubber issue and brand new was nice. I gave myself a early Christmas present last year and replaced all of my used kegs with new ones.

 

[Zenmeister]

Back to the O-Rings on the posts. I bought about 100 of the reddish o-rings just for my Gas, and 100 black for my liquid. I never accidentally cross up my connections to the posts any more.