Upright Keezer, 8 taps, 11 kegs

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2) I know the smaller freezers won't let you stack ball locks, but how many can you get on the bottom layer? I was thinking having 5 gallon ball locks on the bottom and 2.5 gallon ball locks and/or bottles on the top. Would that also allow a lagering carboy on the top shelf with the smaller freezers?







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I have a Frigidaire 14 cu. ft. and can have 8 pin locks on tap. 4 per level. Ball locks are too tall to stack 5 gallons. I think it's possible to do 9, with 5 in the floor and 4 on the second row, but that's a lot of jockeying and there isn't much space for a 9th tap.


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In hindsight I'd agree, go with the 20 cu ft if you can. I lucked out and had 8 pin locks on hand. While the 14 does work, it's snug to get all 8 in there. Only "perfect" part of the 14 is that it's at a great height to put all my beer glassware on top.


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JonW said:
If you're building from scratch, I'd just get the 20 CF and call it a day. They are only inches bigger than the 14/16/18 CF models. They're on CL from $100-$200.
Click to expand...

The 20 is what I'm gunning for, but thought I would ask. I agree, I would rather the space and call it a day.


I know it probably depends on the model, but how hard is it to by-pass the defroster? I'm not an electrician by any means, but just don't want it to be a whole bunch of parts to remove to get to the defroster wiring and/or having to cut, splice, solder a bunch of wiring either.
 
Yesfan said:
The 20 is what I'm gunning for, but thought I would ask. I agree, I would rather the space and call it a day.


I know it probably depends on the model, but how hard is it to by-pass the defroster? I'm not an electrician by any means, but just don't want it to be a whole bunch of parts to remove to get to the defroster wiring and/or having to cut, splice, solder a bunch of wiring either.
Click to expand...

The defrost circuits are really simple and very similar across models. Many units have the wiring diagram right on them, if not, they're easy to find online. Many models just require disconnecting one wire so the manual defrost timer no longer runs.
 
I just got a Kenmore 20 off craigslist! Been waiting for months for one under $200 and I finally snagged one and the guy delivered it too.

I have a temp controller question I have built a 2 stage Stc for my chest freezer (the type in a box with the outlets to flip the power on and off). Can I use that style for this as well? I would like to avoid messing with the wiring if I can as I know nothing about it and diagrams make me drink... Also why is disconnecting the auto defrost important?
 
Sure, you can use the STC with it. Most of the frost free units go into a defrost cycle where they let the temp rise. Sometimes they even heat up an element to evaporate the melting ice. You want to disconnect the defrost timer so it never enters this state and lets your beer warm up. I'm sure there's plenty of people out there that never disconnect the defrost and don't care about the temporary rise in temperature. Your choice.
 
Thanks for the reply I opened up the inside cover is disabling the defrost as simple as separating the white cable at the black disconnect in the photo?

p4250115-62848.jpg


Here are some more photos. I appreciate the help!

p4250118-62847.jpg
[/IMG]

p4250114-62849.jpg
 
jekeane said:
Thanks for the reply I opened up the inside cover is disabling the defrost as simple as separating the white cable at the black disconnect in the photo?
Click to expand...
Is yours a digital unit? If so, then yes, you probably just want to disconnect the heater. For the manual timer models (rotating knob clock/timer) that's located at the rear underneath, then you'd be better off disconnecting the whole defrost timer. I've only personally worked on the manual units - nothing with a digital temp controller.
 
I just pulled the white wire to the left of the photo it runs into the thermostat that is clipped onto the coil. I have a digital readout temperature selector on the door 1-7 and couldn't find anything manual around the coils. I keep poking my head in there to see if there are any major temperature swings and nothing so far. So hopefully disconnecting the thermometer was all that was needed.

have my first carboy cold crashing in there now!

How much of a temperature gradient do you see between the top and bottom of your freezer? I imagine the mass of your kegs minimizes the difference. I am planning on just having kegs below and the top for yeast/beer storage and possibly lagering.
 
My coils have been Icing bad... Im wondering if I have to shut it down and open it up for a day to get all the moisture get out. I bought an evadry Dehumidifier yesterday. Might take a look at the door gasket seems like Im getting a ton of moisture at the top near the door.
 
jekeane said:
My coils have been Icing bad... Im wondering if I have to shut it down and open it up for a day to get all the moisture get out. I bought an evadry Dehumidifier yesterday. Might take a look at the door gasket seems like Im getting a ton of moisture at the top near the door.
Click to expand...

I'm sure it's a sealing issue. My fermenter is like that. For the kegerator though, I don't use any kind of dehumidifier and don't have any moisture problems.
 
So I'd been thinking about building the shelving and thought I'd share my results.

I made it from 1" pvc pipe and some connectors. I used the thicker kind that's only 5' long. It turned out perfect! Whole thing was around $20

Parts:
3 - 1" x 5' thick pvc pipe
2 - 90*
4 - 'T'
2 - 90* with outlet

Here's a drawing because it's now inside, loaded up and il NOT taking out ;)
ImageUploadedByHome Brew1402358870.501798.jpg

The back of my freezer had a compressor hump and the 2 90* bends allow the legs to go as far back as possible and the cross bar to touch the back above the hump.
The middle cross bar is for added support. My DYI skills are better than my drawing (thank goodness).

Enjoy! Thanks for the whole idea JonW!!


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Love the raspberry pints. I think I finally solved my freezing problem. Almost sure it is the door gasket which are stupid expensive btw... $80 without shipping seems to be the norm... I put a lantern in the freezer turned off the lights an could clearly see a very thin line of light in several places. That coupled with having to open and close the door for the picnic taps was causing to much condensation. I installed some 1/2 sticky weather foam i got from Lowes along the outer edge of the gasket to help with the seal from the outside. Then I coated the gasket with a very thin layer of keg lube. I also installed 2 USB fans from target and added some better insulation to my beer line / temp probe holes in the back. This seems to solve the problem I no longer get visible condensation anywhere and the fix cost about $22.

Hopefully will be starting to add actual taps in the fall, however with baby #2 on the way as well as transitioning to all grain it may be pushed back.
 
man what a build congrats!! I was going to go with a chest freezer and run lined through my wall into the house (not sure if that would have worked) but I think I will do a build like this. Thanks for sharing your build and thanks for all the tips from OP and everyone else!!
 
Yep, seals it here. I'd been considering a chest freezer, but since I only currently think I'd ever want/need more than 2 taps, with the rest of the area used for 'bottles and cans' storage - chests are very difficult to maintain for 'piece' inventory.

So, a stand up freezer, with the kegs in bottom, going through the door still would give me storage AND easy access to the rest of the unit to get 'singles' out.

Yes yes yes, I know. 2 for now, of course.....
 
JonW said:
I recently added the RaspberryPints electronic tap list to my keezer.


beerboard2.jpg


More info on the RaspberryPints project here.
Click to expand...


Just got a quick question on how you have the monitor mounted to the freezer. I'm asuming it's some kind of VESA wall mount. Any recommendations on the one to roll with?
 
RazorUK said:
Just got a quick question on how you have the monitor mounted to the freezer. I'm asuming it's some kind of VESA wall mount. Any recommendations on the one to roll with?
Click to expand...

I took apart the monitor stand and used the quick release plate from the stand. It is simply secured using a couple of self tapping screws. This was the only way to mount it where it sat flush to the door. It can still be easily removed though.
 
Excellent! Thanks Jon, I just took mine apart and I have a slightly different approach, I managed to take apart the entire bracket and get the plate for the back as well as the quick release plate. I will be using 4 x 2.5 inch bolts with wingnuts on the back to make mine work.

I'd never have thought to do that without your input so many thanks!
 
Anyone know if this model will work? I tried to get inside dimensions but nobody has it available to measure and the specifications are not listed. There have been no 20+ cu ft upright freezers even listed on CL in the past 5-6 months. I need a new kegerator so...gotta go new.

http://www.sears.com/kenmore-20-cu-...p-04622042000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

If it fits at least 10 kegs ill be happy; was hoping to squeeze 12 into it, or at least 11. Just curious if anyone has found a new model that will work for this project. It's frost free so the shelves must be removable, and the price is right with free delivery.
 
Just wanted to say I was going to be doing a chest freezer to replace my 2 small fridge kegerators but now I am shopping for a 20 cf upright freezer...
Thanks to everyone on this thread
I will post pics once I get mine up and running
 
JonW: I was doing some research to figure out how to make the shelf for my keezer when I came across this post; mine is nearly identical except I did six taps instead of eight and I used a stainless steel backsplash/drip tray combination. I actually think yours looks better than mine being mounted through the door only. Anyway, my question is: with the four 2x2 posts it looks like they directly contact the floor of the freezer, does it support the 300 pounds of beer without damaging the floor? I always over do my design and I'm trying to avoid it this time; I've already spent a small fortune because I bought the freezer new :-/
 
There's no problem with the weight. We have 4 local people here that have all done the same setup and nobody has had any problems with the legs or the floor supporting the weight.
 
Iafarmre said:
I bought the smaller 14 cu ft model (it was available on craigslist) and can squeeze 9 in without messing with the door shelving. Will the wire shelf handle the weight of 4 pin locks or did you do the wood reinforcement to ensure it was secure?
Click to expand...

Can you post a photo of your 14cu.ft. loaded with kegs?
 
Huaco said:
Can you post a photo of your 14cu.ft. loaded with kegs?
Click to expand...

I had to modify slightly. 8 kegs (pin lock) without the shelf. It's a snug fit but holds all well. The pin lock connectors were possible with the shelf installed. I used compact connectors for the top row of kegs to make it easier to use.

image.jpg
 
Jon,

Thanks for the quick response and the picture! Looks like you might need a crowbar to get them out but, looks like they fit!! Very happy!

Great thread and build!
 

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