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Upright Keezer, 8 taps, 11 kegs

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I've been considering this build for quite some time. I probably won't have 8 taps but will have the available space for lagering/aging. I like the small footprint it offers.
 
I bought the smaller 14 cu ft model (it was available on craigslist) and can squeeze 9 in without messing with the door shelving. Will the wire shelf handle the weight of 4 pin locks or did you do the wood reinforcement to ensure it was secure?
 
I bought the smaller 14 cu ft model (it was available on craigslist) and can squeeze 9 in without messing with the door shelving. Will the wire shelf handle the weight of 4 pin locks or did you do the wood reinforcement to ensure it was secure?

I wouldn't trust the wire shelf by itself, but that's just me. With 6, it was definitely a no-go, but with 4 you might be OK.
 
I bought the smaller 14 cu ft model (it was available on craigslist) and can squeeze 9 in without messing with the door shelving. Will the wire shelf handle the weight of 4 pin locks or did you do the wood reinforcement to ensure it was secure?

With the 14 cu ft model, you having any issues height wise stacking 2 layers of kegs?
 
With the 14 cu ft model, you having any issues height wise stacking 2 layers of kegs?

Using pin lock kegs there wasn't any issue. It is a bit tight, but with the middle shelf still in, you can get 4-5 on the floor and 4-5 on the shelf. If you go with 5 on either one you have to remove door shelving. There's about an inch of space above the tops of the kegs on both levels.

Ball locks are too tall though and won't work in this to stack.
 
Using pin lock kegs there wasn't any issue. It is a bit tight, but with the middle shelf still in, you can get 4-5 on the floor and 4-5 on the shelf. If you go with 5 on either one you have to remove door shelving. There's about an inch of space above the tops of the kegs on both levels.

Ball locks are too tall though and won't work in this to stack.

Can you take a picture sometime to show us what it looks like? Also, any chance on interior dimensions? I'm really interested in the possibility of an even smaller footprint.
 
I found a freezer on CL last week. Looking forward to starting this build. I have most parts but still need a few items. I'm glad I bought my parts over the last six months and not all at once especially with a Brewhemoth arriving in the same week. My freezer was manufactured Sept 2012, very clean and only $275 on CL. Thanks Jon.

Keezer Project.jpg
 
I had time over the weekend to install the Co2, drill the door and mount the drip trays. Thanks to Jonw and other posters in this thread for all the inspiration and help. I ended up going with 2 three port drip trays because this model freezer has a vertical door divider on the inside that I wanted to avoid. Also thanks to the heads up from jeffcosgrove, I was able to avoid the vertical wiring in the door. Originally I was not going to populate all the faucet ports (just four to start) but as I thought it through I decided to do all the drilling at one time so 2 more shanks and faucets are on the way. On the fourth shank I over torqued the little sleeve at the faucet end and broke it. They are a little hard to find but I have more of those on the way as well.

Thank You HBT!

Keezer Co2 Install.jpg


Keezer WIP 02_23_2014.jpg
 
Quick questions.


1) Do you still have to bypass the defrost if you use a Johnson controller?

2) I know the smaller freezers won't let you stack ball locks, but how many can you get on the bottom layer? I was thinking having 5 gallon ball locks on the bottom and 2.5 gallon ball locks and/or bottles on the top. Would that also allow a lagering carboy on the top shelf with the smaller freezers?



My cousin is looking to add a keezer to his brewery and I'm trying to get him to buy my chest freezer. If he does, I may go the upright route.
 
1) Do you still have to bypass the defrost if you use a Johnson controller?
Yes, it's suggested that you bypass the defrost for any controller you are using.

2) I know the smaller freezers won't let you stack ball locks, but how many can you get on the bottom layer? I was thinking having 5 gallon ball locks on the bottom and 2.5 gallon ball locks and/or bottles on the top. Would that also allow a lagering carboy on the top shelf with the smaller freezers?
I don't know the size of the smaller freezers, so I can't answer that. I will leave that as an exercise for you. :mug:
 
2) I know the smaller freezers won't let you stack ball locks, but how many can you get on the bottom layer? I was thinking having 5 gallon ball locks on the bottom and 2.5 gallon ball locks and/or bottles on the top. Would that also allow a lagering carboy on the top shelf with the smaller freezers?







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I have a Frigidaire 14 cu. ft. and can have 8 pin locks on tap. 4 per level. Ball locks are too tall to stack 5 gallons. I think it's possible to do 9, with 5 in the floor and 4 on the second row, but that's a lot of jockeying and there isn't much space for a 9th tap.


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In hindsight I'd agree, go with the 20 cu ft if you can. I lucked out and had 8 pin locks on hand. While the 14 does work, it's snug to get all 8 in there. Only "perfect" part of the 14 is that it's at a great height to put all my beer glassware on top.


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If you're building from scratch, I'd just get the 20 CF and call it a day. They are only inches bigger than the 14/16/18 CF models. They're on CL from $100-$200.

The 20 is what I'm gunning for, but thought I would ask. I agree, I would rather the space and call it a day.


I know it probably depends on the model, but how hard is it to by-pass the defroster? I'm not an electrician by any means, but just don't want it to be a whole bunch of parts to remove to get to the defroster wiring and/or having to cut, splice, solder a bunch of wiring either.
 
The 20 is what I'm gunning for, but thought I would ask. I agree, I would rather the space and call it a day.


I know it probably depends on the model, but how hard is it to by-pass the defroster? I'm not an electrician by any means, but just don't want it to be a whole bunch of parts to remove to get to the defroster wiring and/or having to cut, splice, solder a bunch of wiring either.

The defrost circuits are really simple and very similar across models. Many units have the wiring diagram right on them, if not, they're easy to find online. Many models just require disconnecting one wire so the manual defrost timer no longer runs.
 
I just got a Kenmore 20 off craigslist! Been waiting for months for one under $200 and I finally snagged one and the guy delivered it too.

I have a temp controller question I have built a 2 stage Stc for my chest freezer (the type in a box with the outlets to flip the power on and off). Can I use that style for this as well? I would like to avoid messing with the wiring if I can as I know nothing about it and diagrams make me drink... Also why is disconnecting the auto defrost important?
 
Sure, you can use the STC with it. Most of the frost free units go into a defrost cycle where they let the temp rise. Sometimes they even heat up an element to evaporate the melting ice. You want to disconnect the defrost timer so it never enters this state and lets your beer warm up. I'm sure there's plenty of people out there that never disconnect the defrost and don't care about the temporary rise in temperature. Your choice.
 
Thanks for the reply I opened up the inside cover is disabling the defrost as simple as separating the white cable at the black disconnect in the photo?

p4250115-62848.jpg


Here are some more photos. I appreciate the help!

p4250118-62847.jpg
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p4250114-62849.jpg
 
Thanks for the reply I opened up the inside cover is disabling the defrost as simple as separating the white cable at the black disconnect in the photo?
Is yours a digital unit? If so, then yes, you probably just want to disconnect the heater. For the manual timer models (rotating knob clock/timer) that's located at the rear underneath, then you'd be better off disconnecting the whole defrost timer. I've only personally worked on the manual units - nothing with a digital temp controller.
 
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