OK, mine is finally finished. 11 taps and looks like furniture.
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That is awesome.
OK, mine is finally finished. 11 taps and looks like furniture.
View attachment 168625
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OK, mine is finally finished. 11 taps and looks like furniture.
View attachment 168625
View attachment 168626
OK, mine is finally finished. 11 taps and looks like furniture.
View attachment 168625
View attachment 168626
I bought the smaller 14 cu ft model (it was available on craigslist) and can squeeze 9 in without messing with the door shelving. Will the wire shelf handle the weight of 4 pin locks or did you do the wood reinforcement to ensure it was secure?
I bought the smaller 14 cu ft model (it was available on craigslist) and can squeeze 9 in without messing with the door shelving. Will the wire shelf handle the weight of 4 pin locks or did you do the wood reinforcement to ensure it was secure?
With the 14 cu ft model, you having any issues height wise stacking 2 layers of kegs?
Using pin lock kegs there wasn't any issue. It is a bit tight, but with the middle shelf still in, you can get 4-5 on the floor and 4-5 on the shelf. If you go with 5 on either one you have to remove door shelving. There's about an inch of space above the tops of the kegs on both levels.
Ball locks are too tall though and won't work in this to stack.
Yes, it's suggested that you bypass the defrost for any controller you are using.1) Do you still have to bypass the defrost if you use a Johnson controller?
I don't know the size of the smaller freezers, so I can't answer that. I will leave that as an exercise for you.2) I know the smaller freezers won't let you stack ball locks, but how many can you get on the bottom layer? I was thinking having 5 gallon ball locks on the bottom and 2.5 gallon ball locks and/or bottles on the top. Would that also allow a lagering carboy on the top shelf with the smaller freezers?
If you're building from scratch, I'd just get the 20 CF and call it a day. They are only inches bigger than the 14/16/18 CF models. They're on CL from $100-$200.
The 20 is what I'm gunning for, but thought I would ask. I agree, I would rather the space and call it a day.
I know it probably depends on the model, but how hard is it to by-pass the defroster? I'm not an electrician by any means, but just don't want it to be a whole bunch of parts to remove to get to the defroster wiring and/or having to cut, splice, solder a bunch of wiring either.
Is yours a digital unit? If so, then yes, you probably just want to disconnect the heater. For the manual timer models (rotating knob clock/timer) that's located at the rear underneath, then you'd be better off disconnecting the whole defrost timer. I've only personally worked on the manual units - nothing with a digital temp controller.Thanks for the reply I opened up the inside cover is disabling the defrost as simple as separating the white cable at the black disconnect in the photo?