Upright Keezer, 8 taps, 11 kegs

[JonW]

I can't see the back of this shelf so I am assuming that this shelf is essentially a 2 legged table where the two legs are what is visible in the front and the back it supported by the hump in the back?

There are 4 legs supporting the shelf. All 4 legs are beveled on the inside edge so that the kegs can push into the corners better.

What kind of beverage line did you use. I currently have accuflex barrier line in my existing keezer and I think it would be too stiff for a project like this.

I used 3/16" vinyl bev line for both the bev and gas. You need some flexibility with it.

Did you ever modify your wiring to solve the light issue? Did you bypass the defrost heater? I take it the recirculation fan still works?

I never did hook up the light. I did bypass the defrost heater - that is required. The fan recirculates any time the compressor is on for cooling.

 

[RickH]

This is an awesome build. One idea. If the wiring is easy to get to then consider LED lighting on the inside. You can use the switch to turn on and off and use a form of battery to power it instead of a constant current. If its a lithium battery then it wouldnt have problems with the cycling being its only charging source.

 

[ryanhope]

This is an awesome build. One idea. If the wiring is easy to get to then consider LED lighting on the inside. You can use the switch to turn on and off and use a form of battery to power it instead of a constant current. If its a lithium battery then it wouldnt have problems with the cycling being its only charging source.

No need for battery, the schematic is simple on these units. I think someone just doesnt want to remove 11 kegs from the freezer to move it

 

[automobiliben]

Anybody had luck with a "tap light" type product and forget hard wiring all together?

 

[JonW]

No need for battery, the schematic is simple on these units. I think someone just doesnt want to remove 11 kegs from the freezer to move it

True, I don't want to pull all the kegs out. However, I found I really just didn't have a need for the light. My garage is well lit and we only open the door to grab a chilled glass.

 

[ryanhope]

Are those 4" or 5" shanks? Also, have you tried putting any sankey kegs in your keezer. I usually have 1 commercial keg on tap at all times in addition to my homebrew. I feel like a the sankey coupler with lines attached wont fit in the bottom section given the height you chose.

 

[JonW]

Are those 4" or 5" shanks? Also, have you tried putting any sankey kegs in your keezer. I usually have 1 commercial keg on tap at all times in addition to my homebrew. I feel like a the sankey coupler with lines attached wont fit in the bottom section given the height you chose.

Shanks are 4". I've not put a sanke in mine, but a friend that has the same setup has lagered in a sanke in his. You may need a low profile sanke tap though.

Just a thought... It only takes a few minutes to push the beer from a sanke to a corny.

 

[ryanhope]

I never did hook up the light. I did bypass the defrost heater - that is required. The fan recirculates any time the compressor is on for cooling.

I feel like I want to have the fan on 100% of the time regardless or not if the compressor is on. However, I have't tested to see how loud it is so maybe this is not a good idea.

 

[ManhattanProjectBrewing]

I have a similar upright frost-free (Older Kenmore but the interior looks exactly like yours) I inherited from my grandmother. However I did not see this thread until AFTER I installed my Ranco Temp Controller. Doh! Where I think I went wrong is I drilled the hole (Single 1/4" hole because I am only using this unit as a ferm / lager chamber) in the SIDE of the freezer instead of the BACK like yours... Dangit! Did I mess up? Am I at a bust? Is this unit toast? Did I ruin this bad boy?

Dang, I should’a did a heckuva lot more research before setting this unit up. Also, I did NOT rewire anything. I simply plugged my temp control unit in and the freezer into the temp controller. Am I doing this wrong? The freezer sides are WAY hot when cooling… What do you suggest I do at this point? Any help / suggestion (from anyone) would be greatly appreciated! Cheers and many thanks again in advance for your replies!

Best,

-JM

 

[seckert]

i am currently piecing together parts to make a chest keezer. i did that cause i thought i would have more room and be able to fit more. now i am thinking about switching to an upright. i have an upright now that i use for food, but the shelves are built into the cooling system so i wouldnt be able to use that one. Great build!

 

[JonW]

Dangit! Did I mess up? Am I at a bust? Is this unit toast? Did I ruin this bad boy?

Does it still run fine? Drilling in the side is not where you want to be because of the coils. However, you could have got lucky and missed the coil and it will still work fine. You just need to plug it in and see.

For wiring, you really should bypass the defrost cycle. No reason to have that kick in when you're trying to chill. Search your model number to see if you can find a wiring diagram (some units have the diagram attached also).

 

[JonW]

I feel like I want to have the fan on 100% of the time regardless or not if the compressor is on. However, I have't tested to see how loud it is so maybe this is not a good idea.

The cold comes from the top and circulates to the bottom. Once chilled to the proper temp, it cycles on and off very little. I wouldn't worry about keeping the fan running all the time. It is likely not meant for continuous duty and could fail early.

 

[user 78027]

Dangit! Did I mess up? Am I at a bust? Is this unit toast? Did I ruin this bad boy?

You only messed it up if it doesn't cool anymore. If the inside is cool after you plug it in, that isn't a problem.

The freezer sides are WAY hot when cooling…

Do you know if it was hot before you started using it with the controller. I would plug the freezer into the wall and see how it operates. If it is hot just plugged into the wall, then the problem is the freezer and you will have to decide what to do with it. First thing I would do is take a vacuum cleaner and clean the dust from the condenser area. It may just be working too hard.

 

[JonW]

In normal operation, the sides do get hot (especially when doing an initial cool down). What matters is whether it is actually doing the cooling. If a coil was punctured, it's not going to cool. If the sides are hot and it is cold inside, then it is fine.

 

[one-L]

Also, had you popped a coil, you would have known pretty much immediately as the freon would have vented in your face. How do I know you ask? An unfortunate event involving a hammer, a screwdriver, and an attempt to help my BIL remove a large buildup of ice from his freezer. No bueno.

 

[mike_in_winchester]

Also, had you popped a coil, you would have known pretty much immediately as the freon would have vented in your face. How do I know you ask? An unfortunate event involving a hammer, a screwdriver, and an attempt to help my BIL remove a large buildup of ice from his freezer. No bueno.

Been there, done that, got a new reefer...

 

[justkev52]

How did you remove the shelves with the cooling lines running through them?
I have an extra freezer like that. Nice job!

 

[JonW]

How did you remove the shelves with the cooling lines running through them?
I have an extra freezer like that. Nice job!

Frost-free models do not have any shelves with lines in them. If you have a model like that, it is a regular freezer and is not suitable for this.

 

[justkev52]

Frost-free models do not have any shelves with lines in them. If you have a model like that, it is a regular freezer and is not suitable for this.

Thanks. Oh well. Guess I'll stick with my 4 tap keezer.

 

[ryanhope]

JonW, I don't know how you use vinyl hose. I used some initially on my build as per your suggestion due to the door. Could taste the hose in all my beers. Had to replace it with hard barrier lines. Im thinking I will pick up a bunch of 90 deg SS elbows to help organize the hard lines.

 

[JonW]

JonW, I don't know how you use vinyl hose. I used some initially on my build as per your suggestion due to the door. Could taste the hose in all my beers. Had to replace it with hard barrier lines. Im thinking I will pick up a bunch of 90 deg SS elbows to help organize the hard lines.

Some vinyl hose is rated for beverage and works just fine. However, others can give you a vinyl off flavor. Where did you get yours from?

 

[ryanhope]

Some vinyl hose is rated for beverage and works just fine. However, others can give you a vinyl off flavor. Where did you get yours from?

Its beverage rated tube from Kegworks.

 

[automobiliben]

Does anyone see the need to utilize the frost-free function in these freezers? I started working on mine last night (model newer than the OPs) and am planning in bypassing the computer altogether. The coils could freeze condensation temporarily while cooling, but it isn't like I will ever keep the unit constantly below freezing.

Also, I bypassed the door light switch and installed a toggle switch so I can have light when I want.

Ben

 

[ryanhope]

Does anyone see the need to utilize the frost-free function in these freezers? I started working on mine last night (model newer than the OPs) and am planning in bypassing the computer altogether. The coils could freeze condensation temporarily while cooling, but it isn't like I will ever keep the unit constantly below freezing.

Also, I bypassed the door light switch and installed a toggle switch so I can have light when I want.

Ben

View attachment 134581

Awesome to see a sankey get in that Ben. I need to make sure there is enough room under my shelf because I too like getting a commercial keg now and then. I too will be bypassing all the electronics once my new temp controller arrives. I cant imagine you will ever need the frost free function.

 

[automobiliben]

Awesome to see a sankey get in that Ben. I need to make sure there is enough room under my shelf because I too like getting a commercial keg now and then. I too will be bypassing all the electronics once my new temp controller arrives. I cant imagine you will ever need the frost free function.

Be careful lifting the Sanke in and out. This one was empty and I guess I didn't lift it high enough when putting it in and and cracked the plastic on the front lip. I am thinking a piece of Aluminum channel will prevent that from happening again...

 

[automobiliben]

Has anyone thought about using Disconnects for their lines, so when not in use they can be removed? It would also make it easier to hook up their kegs outside, and than put them in? The come in valved and nonvalved, if you wish to prevent leaking.

I ran the numbers and I can outfit my 11 tap (beer lines are valved, gas is nonvalved) with everything it needs for $110...

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=84241&catid=743

I noticed that some homebrew shops sell these for about $20/set, might as well cut out the middle man, they are around $7 a set from USPlastics...

 

[JonW]

Has anyone thought about using Disconnects for their lines, so when not in use they can be removed?

Yeah, that's what ball lock disconnects are for.

 

[mjohnson]

I think he means on the tap side. I was looking for MFL capable 90 elbows. haven't found any yet.

 

[JonW]

I figured that. You don't want to remove your lines though. Any device inline to the taps is likely going to create turbulance and foaming issues.

 

[automobiliben]

I think he means on the tap side. I was looking for MFL capable 90 elbows. haven't found any yet.

What would these be needed for? I did get the elbow tail pieces for the shanks.

I figured that. You don't want to remove your lines though. Any device inline to the taps is likely going to create turbulance and foaming issues.

Agreed, but that would be pretty easy to test out. Also, I doubt there would be any more disturbance caused than connecting these to a Corny disconnect or shank tail piece a lot of those are 1/4" barbs.

Why don't you want to remove the lines? I am going to have 11 taps, thinking that with 4-5' of line per tap things are going to get awfully crowded in there.