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Unboxing the Nano from CO Brewing

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I do use 100% power on the way up to boil, and have made beers with lots of wheat or oats. Circulation under the basket can't hurt but I am not convinced it's necessary. Things might be different with a big batch though--I am only doing 5 gallons.
 
I also did a wheat beer last weekend with 5 pounds of wheat, 5 pounds of 2-row and 1 pound of rice hulls. I did a rest at 120 as recommended and was able to run the pump at full speed the entire mash and it never got stuck. I do have the 15 gallon system so maybe only doing 5 gallons on it is helping. I also didn't have any scorching in the element, I ran it at 100% to boil then down to around 65%-70% after.
 
I did a test run on the new manifold as well, even at full throttle it only came out about 3 in or so out of the holes... not nearly as much as i thought... but it flowed really well... the only complaint is the stupid 3/8 barb!! seriously... every hose is 1/2 in a standard set up, i put a 3/8 piece over it then slipped it over but it slips off when hot.. clamp time.. :(

also the new ripple element seems to heat up a lot faster than the other one...
 
I did a test run on the new manifold as well, even at full throttle it only came out about 3 in or so out of the holes... not nearly as much as i thought... but it flowed really well... the only complaint is the stupid 3/8 barb!! seriously... every hose is 1/2 in a standard set up, i put a 3/8 piece over it then slipped it over but it slips off when hot.. clamp time.. :(

also the new ripple element seems to heat up a lot faster than the other one...
 
The only times I have had scorching, I have had my element power too high during the boil. I am not convinced that the element will scorch during the mash. I even over-pumped my last batch and heart a POP when the element became exposed! No scorch mark even from that abuse... but I did get a little scorched area on my very first run, when I was boiling 7.5 gallons wort at 85% power instead of the 65% I use now.

other than getting to the boil I run mine at 63% usually
 
I did a test run on the new manifold as well, even at full throttle it only came out about 3 in or so out of the holes... not nearly as much as i thought... but it flowed really well... the only complaint is the stupid 3/8 barb!! seriously... every hose is 1/2 in a standard set up, i put a 3/8 piece over it then slipped it over but it slips off when hot.. clamp time.. :(

also the new ripple element seems to heat up a lot faster than the other one...

Slow the feed to it down and it'll probably go across more of the holes. You don't need the pump at full open, I doubt you're gaining efficiency numbers by rinsing more times with it wide open. With my valve about 1/4 of the way open I get liquid out of every hole as long as I can get the manifold to lay flat on the bed. Try to start with the valve wide open and slowly close it to see if it'll help or not. If not your manifold might have some burs stuck inside it.

The barb makes me mad too lol. I use a clamp on it. With my pump wide open to the manifold it shoots water like a foot in the air out if all the holes.
 
Slow the feed to it down and it'll probably go across more of the holes. You don't need the pump at full open, I doubt you're gaining efficiency numbers by rinsing more times with it wide open. With my valve about 1/4 of the way open I get liquid out of every hole as long as I can get the manifold to lay flat on the bed. Try to start with the valve wide open and slowly close it to see if it'll help or not. If not your manifold might have some burs stuck inside it.

The barb makes me mad too lol. I use a clamp on it. With my pump wide open to the manifold it shoots water like a foot in the air out if all the holes.

mine only comes out about 3 in or so... with an 809 march pump... plenty i agree, i just thought it would flow more... not that its needed i agree...

i mean to say it DOES come out all the holes evenly... just not a foot , couple in or so
 
Slow the feed to it down and it'll probably go across more of the holes. You don't need the pump at full open, I doubt you're gaining efficiency numbers by rinsing more times with it wide open. With my valve about 1/4 of the way open I get liquid out of every hole as long as I can get the manifold to lay flat on the bed. Try to start with the valve wide open and slowly close it to see if it'll help or not. If not your manifold might have some burs stuck inside it.



The barb makes me mad too lol. I use a clamp on it. With my pump wide open to the manifold it shoots water like a foot in the air out if all the holes.


The guys at SsBT are so responsive. I don't have the manifold but I bet if you asked they would try to figure out a solution to the 3/8ths 1/2 issue.
 
The guys at SsBT are so responsive. I don't have the manifold but I bet if you asked they would try to figure out a solution to the 3/8ths 1/2 issue.

I'm not sure what they could do besides recommend a clamp. If they create a new version that would help. I wonder if the connection was 1/2 if you could bury the manifold deeper into the grain bed.

I was recommending that people reciculate while adding grains but I'm not sure with the manifold. Last brew I found it got in the way of stirring the grains and I found dough balls while throwing my grains out. I think it might be better to add the grains first, then attach the manifold, and then start the pump.
 
Yeah I was surprised when I opened the box and saw the 3/8 barb. But the cooling coil barbs on my 1bbl SS Conicals from them are also 3/8 I believe. Maybe they get a deal on them?
 
I'm not sure what they could do besides recommend a clamp. If they create a new version that would help. I wonder if the connection was 1/2 if you could bury the manifold deeper into the grain bed.

I was recommending that people reciculate while adding grains but I'm not sure with the manifold. Last brew I found it got in the way of stirring the grains and I found dough balls while throwing my grains out. I think it might be better to add the grains first, then attach the manifold, and then start the pump.

I add the grains and stir vigorously then let it sit for about 30 seconds and place the manifold on top. I mean stirring like I do is doing more than any recirc could do to mix the grains and water together. When I have to stir (and I didn't with non wheat beers at all) I simply pick it up with one hand and stir with the other. on a side then the other side of the cross bar. Kind of PITA but not a huge deal really.
 
If you're using a standard chugger just get a triclover T off the pump. You'll need to clean a T and a valve but should be fine just running one pump.



I believe it's after a wheat heavy beer and no circulation under the basket, when you send the element to 100% to heat towards boil. If you're heating to boil at 65% it must take forever to get there. I haven't even pulled my element out of the kettle after my last two brew days, it's clean after just wiping it down.

I already had a bunch of the parts to do this and so I ordered the recirc fitting and T and Ill let ya know how it works out with the standard pump. I don't really think I plan to "whirlpool" so much as just create some movement under there and see what happens.
 
I add the grains and stir vigorously then let it sit for about 30 seconds and place the manifold on top. I mean stirring like I do is doing more than any recirc could do to mix the grains and water together. When I have to stir (and I didn't with non wheat beers at all) I simply pick it up with one hand and stir with the other. on a side then the other side of the cross bar. Kind of PITA but not a huge deal really.

I just left my dough ball destroyer under it last time but didn't have to do anything. Would still be about to use it no problem. Like you I just mix the crap out of them then throw it on top.

I already had a bunch of the parts to do this and so I ordered the recirc fitting and T and Ill let ya know how it works out with the standard pump. I don't really think I plan to "whirlpool" so much as just create some movement under there and see what happens.

Should be fine, that's all I do really. Just have the valve open enough I can see the liquid moving. Once the mash is over and I start heating up I open it all the way just to move anything off the element that may have settled.
 
30# batch tonight. 12# of wheat in it, it was my cherry wheat base recipe that I've burned twice now. Never touched the mash, never had any issues. Brew was the most painless yet. Video to come, new set up is definitely working for me.
 
Finally having a good streak on this thing. 3 brews in a row went great. Struggling with gravities but at least it's brewing like it's supposed to. Rebrewed the wheat beer that gave me trouble and it went really well. 12# of wheat in it, no issues
 
Finally having a good streak on this thing. 3 brews in a row went great. Struggling with gravities but at least it's brewing like it's supposed to. Rebrewed the wheat beer that gave me trouble and it went really well. 12# of wheat in it, no issues

what struggles are you having? just hitting numbers or constantly different or variable?
 
what struggles are you having? just hitting numbers or constantly different or variable?

Just hitting numbers. I spent my first 10 brews just trying to make it brew like it should. I'll start seeing what I can do to up my efficiency now.

I'll sacrifice some alcohol for it running smoothly though. Most of my beers end up around 5% which is good for the styles I do. I'm doing research now for my next beer which will be a large 10% imperial porter or stout so I might lower my crush a bit and see how it goes.
 
My efficiency has been all over the place... First batch 68%, recent batches higher with the last batch at 82%. I do tend to poke the mash and turn it over while I am waiting around, and I wonder if this boosts efficiency over what you get with just the pump.

I do want to get that SS manifold, or something like it, so I can hopefully walk away and get consistent efficiency... whatever it is.
 
My efficiencies seems reasonably close. I would thin kyours probably have to do some with the stirring but may have other factors. Mine gets pretty close to 72-75 most of the time. I used to get higher with my old setup but I certainly don't get the 80's they said. Its a bit of a trade off for the simplicity of electric I guess. I will say I think th emanifold is a good investment though. heres a pic of mine with the T and other stuff installed. I havent run a test on it yet. I'm also not real fond of all this weight on the kettle fitting and will probably develop a solution to that soon.

20170406_084258.jpg
 
But the trade-off is not because it is electric - but rather that it is single kettle design. Triple kettle electric HERMS will be the best system if we are talking about efficiency, wort clarity, and running problem free... but there is the big problem of extra space, more cleaning and higher investment cost...
Myself i choose single kettle system mostly because of the compact size...
 
But the trade-off is not because it is electric - but rather that it is single kettle design. Triple kettle electric HERMS will be the best system if we are talking about efficiency, wort clarity, and running problem free... but there is the big problem of extra space, more cleaning and higher investment cost...
Myself i choose single kettle system mostly because of the compact size...

valid points, I don't think its compact size was a factor for me as much although I doubt I could ket a three kettle system where mine is sitting now I think I could have easily set a traditional setup in place somehwre in my basement. The simplicity of it, price, capability and of course it being electric were probably my biggest factors. I will admit like most I'm still "dialing" it in to be what I want it to be and to work in a consistent manner. That's part of the fun though in some ways. I mean I haven't had to dump anything LOL and I am getting there. We talk a lot about our issues etc but the thing makes beer and does it well as long as you are paying attention just like any system.
 
I'm also not real fond of all this weight on the kettle fitting and will probably develop a solution to that soon.

I don't like this at all either, and I don't have as much weight as you do. One errant step and I worry the whole thing might snap off. That's a big lever sticking out and I hope that weld is strong!! I have started putting a step-stool right over that contraption to help keep me from stepping too close.

But the trade-off is not because it is electric - but rather that it is single kettle design. Triple kettle electric HERMS will be the best system if we are talking about efficiency, wort clarity, and running problem free... but there is the big problem of extra space, more cleaning and higher investment cost...
Myself i choose single kettle system mostly because of the compact size...

I decided I would rather have an electric, partially-automated single kettle system instead of gas-fired, manual controlled 3-vessel system. I don't love the cloudy wort, but... It does clear in the keg. No regrets, and I am sure glad the system is small too.
 
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I don't like this at all either, and I don't have as much weight as you do. One errant step and I worry the whole thing might snap off. That's a big lever sticking out snf I hope that weld is strong!! I have started putting a step-stool right over that contraption to help keep me from stepping too close.



I decided I would rather have an electric, partially-automated single kettle system instead of gas-fired, manual controlled 3-vessel system. I don't love the cloudy wort, but... It does clear in the keg. No regrets, and I am sure glad the system is small too.

I don't have terribly couldy wort but I will admit it is generally cloudier than my old trad sparge setup. I have noticed when its running the wort is really clear so its always kind of a bummer to lift the basket and have it get all cloudy LOL I mean who doesn't like clear wort LOL but like you I haven't noticed ANY real difference in final product
 
Exactly. I'd rather throw a few more dollars of grain in an have the lower efficiency than having a more complicated system and especially where I'm at now something that takes up more space.
 
When I made Yooper's outmeal stout it looked like chocolate milk, no exaggeration. It partially cleared during fermentation but it wasn't until it was kegged for a week that it dropped clear... I flushed a couple of pints and then it was good to go. Until that happened I wondered if I was hosed.

I could actually see crud settling in the keg lines during this time, which I never saw with my old Igloo cooler setup.

A similar thing happened when I made a cream ale with some corn... It tasted OK but looked like horchata (!), and the test pints left a clear slime (!!) on the sides of the glass. I guess that was the corn at work? Again, I wondered if it was ever going to clear... but it did.

So, I am not really worried about cloudy wort, but SO much gunk comes through that I would like to find some way to mitigate it. I have been hesitant to cold crash in the keg fermenter lately, after getting scared of the oxygen boogeyman....
 
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When I made Yooper's outmeal stout it looked like chocolate milk, no exaggeration. It partially cleared during fermentation but it wasn't until it was kegged for a week that it dropped clear... I flushed a couple of pints and then it was good to go. Until that happened I wondered if I was hosed.

I could actually see crud settling in the keg lines during this time, which I never saw with my old Igloo cooler setup.

A similar thing happened when I made a cream ale with some corn... It tasted OK but looked like horchata (!), and the test pints left a clear slime (!!) on the sides of the glass. I guess that was the corn at work? Again, I wondered if it was ever going to clear... but it did.

So, I am not really worried about cloudy wort, but SO much gunk comes through that I would like to find some way to mitigate it. I have been hesitant to cold crash in the keg fermenter lately, after getting scared of the oxygen boogeyman....

geesh no I have not experience that. I make a milk stout with oatmeal etc in it and honestly the last batch I made was the best I ever made and was perect in color. I will say that I didn't do a sparge on it (accident that I plan to do everytime now). I haven't seen any depreciable change in the cloudiness of my beers from the tap at all. I don't cold crash either. 4 weeks ferment 2 weeks in the keg carbing at room temp then into the kegerator when needed
 
My efficiencies seems reasonably close. I would thin kyours probably have to do some with the stirring but may have other factors. Mine gets pretty close to 72-75 most of the time. I used to get higher with my old setup but I certainly don't get the 80's they said. Its a bit of a trade off for the simplicity of electric I guess. I will say I think th emanifold is a good investment though. heres a pic of mine with the T and other stuff installed. I havent run a test on it yet. I'm also not real fond of all this weight on the kettle fitting and will probably develop a solution to that soon.

You could use and adjustable pipe stand or just a 2x4 with a V cut in it. Pipe stand would work great though.
 
Just a short piece of hose that will go from the kettle to the pump. So the weight of everything isn't supported by the kettle connection.
 
Did another NEIPA last night really happy with the site glass swap for whirlpool. Had a nice cone in the center. 18 oz of hops and I haven't even done dry hop yet!

I'm looking for a decent NEIPA recipe. That's a huge amount of hops. I love that the whirlpool gets them together so nicely. Please tell us how it ends up. Cheers
 
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