I do use 100% power on the way up to boil, and have made beers with lots of wheat or oats. Circulation under the basket can't hurt but I am not convinced it's necessary. Things might be different with a big batch though--I am only doing 5 gallons.
The only times I have had scorching, I have had my element power too high during the boil. I am not convinced that the element will scorch during the mash. I even over-pumped my last batch and heart a POP when the element became exposed! No scorch mark even from that abuse... but I did get a little scorched area on my very first run, when I was boiling 7.5 gallons wort at 85% power instead of the 65% I use now.
I did a test run on the new manifold as well, even at full throttle it only came out about 3 in or so out of the holes... not nearly as much as i thought... but it flowed really well... the only complaint is the stupid 3/8 barb!! seriously... every hose is 1/2 in a standard set up, i put a 3/8 piece over it then slipped it over but it slips off when hot.. clamp time..
also the new ripple element seems to heat up a lot faster than the other one...
Slow the feed to it down and it'll probably go across more of the holes. You don't need the pump at full open, I doubt you're gaining efficiency numbers by rinsing more times with it wide open. With my valve about 1/4 of the way open I get liquid out of every hole as long as I can get the manifold to lay flat on the bed. Try to start with the valve wide open and slowly close it to see if it'll help or not. If not your manifold might have some burs stuck inside it.
The barb makes me mad too lol. I use a clamp on it. With my pump wide open to the manifold it shoots water like a foot in the air out if all the holes.
Slow the feed to it down and it'll probably go across more of the holes. You don't need the pump at full open, I doubt you're gaining efficiency numbers by rinsing more times with it wide open. With my valve about 1/4 of the way open I get liquid out of every hole as long as I can get the manifold to lay flat on the bed. Try to start with the valve wide open and slowly close it to see if it'll help or not. If not your manifold might have some burs stuck inside it.
The barb makes me mad too lol. I use a clamp on it. With my pump wide open to the manifold it shoots water like a foot in the air out if all the holes.
The guys at SsBT are so responsive. I don't have the manifold but I bet if you asked they would try to figure out a solution to the 3/8ths 1/2 issue.
I'm not sure what they could do besides recommend a clamp. If they create a new version that would help. I wonder if the connection was 1/2 if you could bury the manifold deeper into the grain bed.
I was recommending that people reciculate while adding grains but I'm not sure with the manifold. Last brew I found it got in the way of stirring the grains and I found dough balls while throwing my grains out. I think it might be better to add the grains first, then attach the manifold, and then start the pump.
If you're using a standard chugger just get a triclover T off the pump. You'll need to clean a T and a valve but should be fine just running one pump.
I believe it's after a wheat heavy beer and no circulation under the basket, when you send the element to 100% to heat towards boil. If you're heating to boil at 65% it must take forever to get there. I haven't even pulled my element out of the kettle after my last two brew days, it's clean after just wiping it down.
I add the grains and stir vigorously then let it sit for about 30 seconds and place the manifold on top. I mean stirring like I do is doing more than any recirc could do to mix the grains and water together. When I have to stir (and I didn't with non wheat beers at all) I simply pick it up with one hand and stir with the other. on a side then the other side of the cross bar. Kind of PITA but not a huge deal really.
I already had a bunch of the parts to do this and so I ordered the recirc fitting and T and Ill let ya know how it works out with the standard pump. I don't really think I plan to "whirlpool" so much as just create some movement under there and see what happens.
Finally having a good streak on this thing. 3 brews in a row went great. Struggling with gravities but at least it's brewing like it's supposed to. Rebrewed the wheat beer that gave me trouble and it went really well. 12# of wheat in it, no issues
what struggles are you having? just hitting numbers or constantly different or variable?
But the trade-off is not because it is electric - but rather that it is single kettle design. Triple kettle electric HERMS will be the best system if we are talking about efficiency, wort clarity, and running problem free... but there is the big problem of extra space, more cleaning and higher investment cost...
Myself i choose single kettle system mostly because of the compact size...
I'm also not real fond of all this weight on the kettle fitting and will probably develop a solution to that soon.
But the trade-off is not because it is electric - but rather that it is single kettle design. Triple kettle electric HERMS will be the best system if we are talking about efficiency, wort clarity, and running problem free... but there is the big problem of extra space, more cleaning and higher investment cost...
Myself i choose single kettle system mostly because of the compact size...
I don't like this at all either, and I don't have as much weight as you do. One errant step and I worry the whole thing might snap off. That's a big lever sticking out snf I hope that weld is strong!! I have started putting a step-stool right over that contraption to help keep me from stepping too close.
I decided I would rather have an electric, partially-automated single kettle system instead of gas-fired, manual controlled 3-vessel system. I don't love the cloudy wort, but... It does clear in the keg. No regrets, and I am sure glad the system is small too.
When I made Yooper's outmeal stout it looked like chocolate milk, no exaggeration. It partially cleared during fermentation but it wasn't until it was kegged for a week that it dropped clear... I flushed a couple of pints and then it was good to go. Until that happened I wondered if I was hosed.
I could actually see crud settling in the keg lines during this time, which I never saw with my old Igloo cooler setup.
A similar thing happened when I made a cream ale with some corn... It tasted OK but looked like horchata (!), and the test pints left a clear slime (!!) on the sides of the glass. I guess that was the corn at work? Again, I wondered if it was ever going to clear... but it did.
So, I am not really worried about cloudy wort, but SO much gunk comes through that I would like to find some way to mitigate it. I have been hesitant to cold crash in the keg fermenter lately, after getting scared of the oxygen boogeyman....
My efficiencies seems reasonably close. I would thin kyours probably have to do some with the stirring but may have other factors. Mine gets pretty close to 72-75 most of the time. I used to get higher with my old setup but I certainly don't get the 80's they said. Its a bit of a trade off for the simplicity of electric I guess. I will say I think th emanifold is a good investment though. heres a pic of mine with the T and other stuff installed. I havent run a test on it yet. I'm also not real fond of all this weight on the kettle fitting and will probably develop a solution to that soon.
Did another NEIPA last night really happy with the site glass swap for whirlpool. Had a nice cone in the center. 18 oz of hops and I haven't even done dry hop yet!