Unboxing the Nano from CO Brewing

[jabba11]

I'm also using it on the 20g kettle. The temp control seems improved but I'm not sure if it improves sugar extraction. Only minor issue is the barb size is small and requires a hose clamp.

I agree it did not improve my efficiency but it did seem to "like it" better. I guess it just seemed to operate better. Also it didn't seem to reduce my efficiency either though really. Maybe a point or tow but that's because with the tube I had to stir it a lot. With his batch I stirred it in and then never stirred it again. I do rinse my grains though at the end. I typically hold back a gallon of water for that. I'm not sure that even really has a huge effect but I do it anyway.

 

[Horseflesh]

I did a 1-gallon rinse once and got a noticeable efficiency boost. I'm still not sure what the best practices are for repeatability, though.

 

[molson]

I notice that a lot of people are trying to improve the temperature consistency of the mash. I was worried about this also because when using the system for the first time I noticed the temp on the controller tended to vary some. I was skeptical of how accurate that was since the sensor is at the bottom of the kettle and isn't really measuring the temperate of the mash. I bought a Thermoworks DOT along with a water proof probe and stuck that in the middle of the grain bed during the mash. What I found was when I set the controller to maintain at 150, the DOT read 150 - 151 the entire time even though the controller ranged from 150-154. So even though the temp on the controller varies some the mash temp is being maintained pretty rock solid. It takes a lot to move the temp of the mash. Based on this I'm pretty happy with the system and don't stress when the temp readout on the controller varies.

 

[jabba11]

I notice that a lot of people are trying to improve the temperature consistency of the mash. I was worried about this also because when using the system for the first time I noticed the temp on the controller tended to vary some. I was skeptical of how accurate that was since the sensor is at the bottom of the kettle and isn't really measuring the temperate of the mash. I bought a Thermoworks DOT along with a water proof probe and stuck that in the middle of the grain bed during the mash. What I found was when I set the controller to maintain at 150, the DOT read 150 - 151 the entire time even though the controller ranged from 150-154. So even though the temp on the controller varies some the mash temp is being maintained pretty rock solid. It takes a lot to move the temp of the mash. Based on this I'm pretty happy with the system and don't stress when the temp readout on the controller varies.

I agree Ive checked it dozens of times. Including recently with the addition of the SS brewtech manifold. While the temp controller does go up and down generally speaking the temp of the mash is accurate to within a degree or two with mine. What Id say is that at the beginning the temp controls varies widely using the supplied tube. When I used the manifold it seemed to me that it stabilized faster and the swings were smaller.

 

[pretzelb]

I did a 1-gallon rinse once and got a noticeable efficiency boost. I'm still not sure what the best practices are for repeatability, though.

I think tests have proven that any rinse will boost numbers but I have yet to try it while nailing down everything else. I might try it soon since I think my estimates outside of BS are becoming more consistent.

 

[LouBrew13]

This weekend I brewed a 5 gallon batch and it worked amazingly with a 21 lb grain bill. But I had at least a gallon of additional wort after filling my fermenter. I'm still trying to master full volume mashing and the boil off rate. The mash process has been the easy part, but final volume but so much.

 

[Horseflesh]

My final volume has been very predictable once I did 2 things. One, I had to dial in grain absorption--which is dependent on how I squeeze the grain bed with a pot lid. The other is boil-off rate. I did a boil test with water to determine this value and it worked out pretty well.

I also do 5-gallon batches, so I put in 7 gallons of water, ran it at 100% until boiling started, then reduced it to 65% for 1 hour, just as if I was boiling wort. Under those conditions and at my elevation, that is 1.3 gal/hr, pretty reliably. (Over 65% power with a 5 gallon batch I see increased browning, turning to a small area of scorching at somewhere around 80% power.)

Boil-off will vary a lot with power output and how full the kettle is, but a test at 7 gallons is close enough for my 5 gallon batches. If i was shooting for 10 gallons I'd probably do a test at 11 gallons of water and 75-80% power, but I am not sure how high you can run without scorching. YMMV.

If it will help I will dig my grain absorption value out of Beersmith tonight. I do squeeze the grain bed like it owes me money, pressing down hard all over with a pot lid.

 

[molson]

I agree Ive checked it dozens of times. Including recently with the addition of the SS brewtech manifold. While the temp controller does go up and down generally speaking the temp of the mash is accurate to within a degree or two with mine. What Id say is that at the beginning the temp controls varies widely using the supplied tube. When I used the manifold it seemed to me that it stabilized faster and the swings were smaller.

I've been looking at getting the manifold as well and this might of convinced me to pull the trigger. I'm planning on doing another batch next week, I'll see how it goes then make a decision.

 

[jabba11]

I've been looking at getting the manifold as well and this might of convinced me to pull the trigger. I'm planning on doing another batch next week, I'll see how it goes then make a decision.

Its not terribly expensive. I guess if it was 150 bucks Id definitely pass and make do. I only have on brew with it as well so Im really waiting to see if it does this well with wheat beers or oatmeal stouts etc before I make my final "this thing is definitely worth it" statement

 

[swimIan]

I notice that a lot of people are trying to improve the temperature consistency of the mash. I was worried about this also because when using the system for the first time I noticed the temp on the controller tended to vary some. I was skeptical of how accurate that was since the sensor is at the bottom of the kettle and isn't really measuring the temperate of the mash. I bought a Thermoworks DOT along with a water proof probe and stuck that in the middle of the grain bed during the mash. What I found was when I set the controller to maintain at 150, the DOT read 150 - 151 the entire time even though the controller ranged from 150-154. So even though the temp on the controller varies some the mash temp is being maintained pretty rock solid. It takes a lot to move the temp of the mash. Based on this I'm pretty happy with the system and don't stress when the temp readout on the controller varies.

Mine fluctuates but I found that double checking with a second thermometer always confirmed that my SV was accurate. Any ideas why the controller's PV fluctuates?

 

[molson]

Mine fluctuates but I found that double checking with a second thermometer always confirmed that my SV was accurate. Any ideas why the controller's PV fluctuates?

My guess is because the temp probe is below the grain bed and close to the heating element.

 

[jready]

My guess is because the temp probe is below the grain bed and close to the heating element.

I agree the grain bed has more mass so temp is going to stay more consistent than the environment below that was water that has been cooled somewhat by its trip through the grain bed and a huge heat source

 

[hibbleton]

My 20 gallon Nano Home finally arrived! I know next to nothing about electrical wiring though; does anybody have any tips for:
1. Connecting a 4-prong plug to the provided control panel power cable. Do I just strip the plug's cable's ends, twist together with the provided box's cable's same colors and tape the whole thing together? This will be plugging in to a standard 4-prong dryer outlet; do I need to be concerned about liquid or should that outlet already be GFCI protected (it's in the basement too if that matters)?

2. Connecting the heating element's power cable to the control panel. I assume the green wire gets attached to the screw in the box, but where do the white and black wires go? The wiring schematic makes it look like the left of the two black boxes but there are 4 slots open...

Thanks for any help; can't wait to fire this thing up this weekend!

 

[Horseflesh]

1. Is your dryer outlet a NEMA 14-30? This is the wiring diagram:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=7757554&postcount=613

2. Hmm. My element came with a big fat plug and there was a matching receptacle on the control panel. If someone here doesn't know, send pics to CBS, they'll probably help you out pretty quickly.

Edit to add:

I suggest doing a boil-off rate test with water, before brew day. I would also run that pump for a few hours to make sure it isn't going to suffer from infant mortality in the middle if your first brew.

 

[hibbleton]

1. Yes, the outlet looks like a NEMA 14-30 (see attached pic for the plug and the cable it needs to be wired to)
2. Below is a picture of the white & black wires and the possible slots they go in (is it 1 & 2 or 3 & 4?)

 

[hibbleton]

For anyone else wondering about this, Jacob from Colorado Brewing got back to me and here's what he said referencing my above picture:

The green is the ground and needs to go on the silver back panel(anywhere). We usually put it to the side of the contactor (black box you referenced).
The white is leg one and needs to go to (4)
The black is leg two and needs to go to (3)

 

[Horseflesh]

I wish they'd just hook this stuff up themselves. Mine was actually missing the power cable when I got it, and another part too... They did send 'em out super fast when I let them know, though.

 

[pretzelb]

I wish they'd just hook this stuff up themselves. Mine was actually missing the power cable when I got it, and another part too... They did send 'em out super fast when I let them know, though.

For some reason mine was all hooked up. I would have been upset otherwise. Maybe because mine was originally going to a brewery overseas.

 

[jabba11]

mine needed the plug to the outlet but that was all.

 

[jready]

mine needed the plug to the outlet but that was all.

+1

 

[02RedWS6TA]

Well I blew 4 kegs Friday night so I guess it's time to brew again. Have a NE IPA and NE Pale ale recipe ready, now I just need some time.

Have the new chugger max set up and ready to go. It definitely moves some liquid, should've started out with that pump.

 

[RollE2k]

02RedWS6TA: When you have changed to Chugger Max - are you thinking that the stronger pump will help with a better whirlpool - or will you be using the SSBrewTech Manifold with it?
Why i'm asking, is because most people seem to throttle the normal chugger down - but that pump is at the same time not strong enough for a whirlpool with a little thicker mash....

 

[hibbleton]

My first brew on the 20gal Nano Home yesterday was a success! My brewhouse efficiency was only 65% but no major issues. The actual brewing only took 3 hours but the cleanup was an additional hour; I can definitely get that down though.

How is everyone cleaning the final bits of grain out of the solid walled basket? And are you putting the system up on bricks or something to raise it up? I feel like that would have made draining and cleaning much easier.

 

[Horseflesh]

I dump the grains into the yard waste bin, then hose the basket out on the lawn. Then, it gets scrubbed with soap. I never get all the bits of grain out, but I just let it go. A few dried husks going in to the next batch doesn't hurt.

 

[02RedWS6TA]

02RedWS6TA: When you have changed to Chugger Max - are you thinking that the stronger pump will help with a better whirlpool - or will you be using the SSBrewTech Manifold with it?
Why i'm asking, is because most people seem to throttle the normal chugger down - but that pump is at the same time not strong enough for a whirlpool with a little thicker mash....

I added a triclover manifold with the pump and multiple valves. I'll be using the mash manifold up top and recycling through the whirlpool port on the bottom as well. It should have enough output for both but mainly because it can whirlpool the entire 20 gallons so hard it spills over the edge of the kettle. This should help clear the wort up and help keep my plate chiller from plugging up so bad.

 

[swimIan]

Maybe the pid temps won't fluctuate as much in this configuration.

 

[RollE2k]

I added a triclover manifold with the pump and multiple valves. I'll be using the mash manifold up top and recycling through the whirlpool port on the bottom as well. It should have enough output for both but mainly because it can whirlpool the entire 20 gallons so hard it spills over the edge of the kettle. This should help clear the wort up and help keep my plate chiller from plugging up so bad.

But if you run whirlpooling and at the same time using manifold above, they will kind of work against each other?
The manifold is for getting a "filter-grain bed" while beneath it you will whirlpooling the grains.. which makes them move..
At least in my head it sounds like the whirlpool will destroy the filter-bed, that the manifold is trying to create, if you know what i mean...

I may be wrong, but that is kind of how i see it. I'm probably going to bite the bullet and order a mesh-sided basket in a month or two.

 

[LouBrew13]

I don't necessarily think there needs to be so much turbulence in the mash. I used to get nice conversion from just letting my mash sit in a cooler for an hour. I love this system for equalizing temp and recirculating at the same time but conversation is gonna take place with or without movement. My 2 cents

 

[02RedWS6TA]

But if you run whirlpooling and at the same time using manifold above, they will kind of work against each other?
The manifold is for getting a "filter-grain bed" while beneath it you will whirlpooling the grains.. which makes them move..
At least in my head it sounds like the whirlpool will destroy the filter-bed, that the manifold is trying to create, if you know what i mean...

I may be wrong, but that is kind of how i see it. I'm probably going to bite the bullet and order a mesh-sided basket in a month or two.

I don't think it'll disturb the mash bed recirculating the wort under it. I'll choke both valves out of the pump back so I get even flow from the manifold and underneath the basket I will have enough movement to not allow grain/crap to sit on the element.

 

[swimIan]

The new 5 and 10 barrel systems recirculate under the basket just as you are describing. Check the videos section of the website.