Unboxing the Nano from CO Brewing
- Thread starter pretzelb
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If you don't mind measuring the total height that would be great. Since it comes apart I shouldn't have an issue getting it in the door. I've got about 8ft of clearance once in the basement for it to stand up in, might be able to cheat a little more height between the floor joists if needed.
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
I'm curious how much larger your 20 gallon pot. I'm wondering if it would fit on my stand. Would you mind posting measurements?
Looks like I'll be replacing my whole breaker panel with an updated one and I'll be putting in a 30A GFCI breaker. Cost would be less than trying to configure or buy an inline extension cord. Still about 3 weeks away from a finished garage but I'm hopeful I'll be brewing first batch in early June.
Howhownow
Well-Known Member
My measurements match pretzelb. To get exact I think you can look up Concord pot measurements- that is what the kettles start out as (be aware, many listed widths include handles).
Spa box is probably the cheapest way to go for GFCI protection. I had mine wired up in 20 minutes- it's very simple.
pretzelb
Well-Known Member
Here are pictures of the poles attaching to the base. About 16" tall but I have the feet attached now. Hope that helps.
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Thanks, 20 gallon Down Under system ordered.
I had called the other day and Tim from CoBrewing just called me back, really nice guy. They are starting to offer touch screen controls and a rotating vent hood. They are going to call me right before building my system to see if I want to upgrade, thinking the hood would be a good option as it will make venting out from the basement a lot easier.
I had called the other day and Tim from CoBrewing just called me back, really nice guy. They are starting to offer touch screen controls and a rotating vent hood. They are going to call me right before building my system to see if I want to upgrade, thinking the hood would be a good option as it will make venting out from the basement a lot easier.
I'm fairly new to home brewing and just starting to think about transitioning from extracts to all-grain. This thread has me really interested in possibly getting a Nano Home, and although I'm not quite ready for it I'm thinking about ordering one before the price goes up in a week.
Do you guys think this system is a good way to get started in whole grain brewing?
I was thinking about the 10 gallon system -- am I likely to regret not getting either the 15 or 20 gallon model? (Can the 10 gallon system brew a 10 gallon batch?)
Do you guys think this system is a good way to get started in whole grain brewing?
I was thinking about the 10 gallon system -- am I likely to regret not getting either the 15 or 20 gallon model? (Can the 10 gallon system brew a 10 gallon batch?)
I don't have mine yet. Ive been brewing for quite awhile and did a ton of research. This system seemed to fit me best. If the budget allows Id say go big, but if not its still a bargain at these prices.
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I think it would be a good system to transition if you are really committed to all grain long term. You could toe dip in for much less $$. I would suggest 15 gal at the very least. That would allow you to higher gravity 5 gallon batches and some low gravity 10 gallon.
Just my 2 cents.
Thanks jready and jabba11-- that's just what I was looking for.
pretzelb
Well-Known Member
As mentioned before you can probably find cheaper options but this is probably closest to being a complete package than most. You might also want to consider that you are also diving into BIAB and electric at the same time. That is a lot to take on at once. If you get frustrated easily that might be rough. I picked the pro because I had been doing all grain fur a long time and I had tried BIAB often enough. I also feared trying to put a system together myself. I wouldn't chase a price. Instead I prefer to make sure I make a good decision. But I'm risk adverse on bigger purchases. Good luck.
cyclonebeer
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The rule of thumb as per CBS is to size the kettle to be twice the size of the batch you intend to brew. Today, you might think that you will never brew 10 gallon batches. 2 years from now, you might change your thinking. I rarely brew 10 gallon batches but bought the 20 gallon system just so that I have the capacity to do so when the spirit moves me.
Just got my system in! Getting things set up and hopefully going to brew on it this weekend. I had a trolley added to my 20g system just to make removing the basket a little easier. Can't wait to get it up and running
MusicalBrewer
Well-Known Member
I watched a video on the CO Brewing website about this system, and it looked like the entire grain bed was in whirlpool during the mash. So I emailed the company and they confirmed that the design...it is a continual stirring of the mash.
For those that own the Nano - Does this design actually work (does it actually stir the grains continually during the mash)? Have you seen a significant increase in efficiency from this?
For those that own the Nano - Does this design actually work (does it actually stir the grains continually during the mash)? Have you seen a significant increase in efficiency from this?
akthor
Well-Known Member
Can I see the mash recirculating fitting? That's a new thing right?
pretzelb
Well-Known Member
I'm still figuring that out. Getting the crush correct is a main factor. At .039 it works OK but I think .045 might be better. The other factor is the batch size and how deep the grain bed is. A 5g batch probably needs a hose on the whirlpool arm while the 10g does not.
Hopefully I can brew this weekend. This time I will try another 10g batch and the .045 crush. I will also ramp the pump up slowly to see how that works. I'm not sure if I can get the entire bed to whirlpool but I should be able to get most of it.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
I don't think you need to be too concerned with getting it all whirlpooling. With the new solid side basket just keeping water moving from top to bottom is the key.
@Pretzelb have you tried stirring your mash some during the recirc? That might help ensure water is penetrating all the grains. Shouldn't affect wort clarity since it's all constantly being washed and filtered anyway? Worth a shot
@Pretzelb have you tried stirring your mash some during the recirc? That might help ensure water is penetrating all the grains. Shouldn't affect wort clarity since it's all constantly being washed and filtered anyway? Worth a shot
I would still think that ideally the bed should be circulating at least some. I mean if it comes out of the fitting close to the side of hard basket and only goes down side then gets recirculated it seems to me that your efficiency would be drastically reduced.
pretzelb
Well-Known Member
Actually I use a mash paddle to check the grain bed in order to feel how much is moving. The frustrating thing is you can't really tell how much is moving without fussing with it. Even when I use the paddle to check in never 100% sure how much movement is going on.
My goal is to get the pump running full blast. Kal had stated in another thread that he had no problem getting full speed in his recirculation setup. It isn't the same system but both should work that way I think.
Having used a pump on my previous system, I don't know that you'll be able to get the pump to run full blast. If there is no restriction on the pump it will quickly loose cavitation and not push any liquid. I used my pump previously to recirc and never ran it full blast (during mash or whirlpool), nor was there a need to. I guess I'm also wondering what the gain is on having a full blast whirlpool vs a slow steady whirlpool.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
I am failing to see that as well. I have never recirc'd full blast and neither does my friend on his 3 vessel electric setup. Doesn't need to and couldn't without starving the pump.
I just keep failing to see where Pretzel's problems are. You can't change 4 things each brew day and ever nail down a system. His focus is on this damn whirlpool action and drastic grain crush changes. Hope you figure it out eventually, but you seem to be in the 1% that continues to have problems.
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I need to find out the crush at my lhbs as theirs worked well. I'm thinking of doing two batches the weekend in my "home" one five gallon big beer and a ten gallon kettle sour.
pretzelb
Well-Known Member
Even with years of brewing I've never worked with pumps or mash recirculation ( or electric or a chill plate) so it is going to take me a while to figure this out. Since I didn't know anyone who had this setup I have to go by what I read about other systems like the Brew Boss or Kals electric system. Maybe I'm stupid but I can't see how I could learn everything in just 4 brews. Let me see if I can outline it all.
First batch taught me that the pump needs to be started slow and then ramped up. It also taught me that with just 5g you need a hose to help with the mash.
Second batch was mostly learning more about chilling and cleaning. I also got closer to learning volume calculations.
Third batch I learned to not use a fine crush.
Fourth batch was my first at 10g where I tried to recirculate without the hose. Not much learned except that trub calculations differ a bit with the bigger batch.
Next batch I can change nothing or see what happens if I use the bigger crush that others use.
I'm not sure how I'm supposed to know these things without trying. In just 4 batches I've only tried 2 different crush sizes. Doesn't seem unreasonable to me to try a third fur my fifth batch when I've read others who recirculate user .045 or .050 on their systems.
For the record the only thing I consider a real problem is a failed recirculation due to the fine crush. The rest of the changes are adjusting to the system to nail down volumes and gravity so I can accurately predict results. Volume is close but gravity will be variable until I determine the best crush.
Shrug. Guess it's time to stop recording info here.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
Add some rice hulls, maybe that would help?
Pretzelb - I say keep the updates coming. Your trials are certainly helping others to dial in their systems, and it's all good info to know for when the rest of us pull the trigger on systems of our own. And for those who have already fine-tuned their systems, hopefully they can lend their expertise to help get your brew days running smoothly!
Hey pretzelb. In looking at some of the pictures. I'm wondering if you recirc arm might be different? When I attach mine it looks like it hugs the side a little closer? I have it tilted a little so that it almost touches the side of the basket. On my old system I found whirlpooling was easier when you can direct the flow along the side. I would definitely try throttling the pump back too, that way you don't pull liquid from under the mash faster than it can filter through (read that in the manual and picked it up from CBS' video)
At any rate, I've been pouring through your notes in anticipation of my first run on the system this weekend. Appreciate all your help and insight thus far! Cheers!
Here's a pic of my whirlpool arm for comparison.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
Sorry Pretzel, not trying to rag on you. Keep the updates coming. I'm sure I won't ace my first batch either. 
I agree don't stop..this is learning process. I don't have mine yet and this info is valuable to me. Anything I can learn prior to use it is a blessing to not have learned the hard way. Ive been brewing a long time and consider myself quite good at it. That said Ive done traditional mash and sparge techniques having NEVER BIAB. Ive steeped things etc before of course but this will be a new way for me. Im familiar with how its supposed to work, the steps etc. Still "the more you know"...
jgoldsworthy
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Let me say this thread has been very useful and enlightening for me! Thank you to everybody who has posted and contributed their experiences.
My CBS kettle came in about 2 weeks ago. I'm coming into this from a Igloo cooler, with a 120v RIMS tube for temp control. I only got the kettle from CBS and will be using my current PID controller. Sadly, after some wet testing, I have concluded that I need to upgrade from 120v to 240v! :-( So, the I've been collecting parts for that project which I plan to start this weekend.
Now, the way I see this, my new system isn't all that much different than my previous one. Previously, I sucked out of the mash tun with a false bottom, pumped it into my electric fired RIMS tube and back to the top of my Igloo cooler. If everything goes as I envision, the mesh bottom of the basket (I have the solid wall basket) will act as the false bottom, and I've moved the element out of the RIMS tube and put it directly in the vessel. Just like before, I'm sucking out of the bottom of the mash tun, through the pump and back to the vessel. Of course there is the age old challenge of a compacted mash bed! Yes, I had the same problem on occasion in my Igloo Mash Tun /w RIMS. If I crush too fine, used loads of wheat, oats, maize, pumpkin (what a nightmare and never again!!), etc., or if I ran my pump too fast I'd end up with major issues with varied results and resolutions.
As a note or FYI, I'd run my pump very slow. Perhaps, just slightly faster than a sparge. I did this for 2 reason; 1) to keep from disturbing the mash bed and 2) to keep from compacting the bed by too much downward flow or suction toward the pump. I do realize that #1 is in direct contrast with the suspended or whirlpool approach to the mash. My 1st brew will be to treat it just as I have in the past. A slow recirc and let the bed lay. The reason? I don't want to change too much at one time, which has been mentioned previously. I'll tweak and mess with my process in the future.
I hope to finish up my controller rebuild this weekend and will post my experiences once I get around to a functional system/kettle.
Thanks again for the insight and contribution!
My CBS kettle came in about 2 weeks ago. I'm coming into this from a Igloo cooler, with a 120v RIMS tube for temp control. I only got the kettle from CBS and will be using my current PID controller. Sadly, after some wet testing, I have concluded that I need to upgrade from 120v to 240v! :-( So, the I've been collecting parts for that project which I plan to start this weekend.
Now, the way I see this, my new system isn't all that much different than my previous one. Previously, I sucked out of the mash tun with a false bottom, pumped it into my electric fired RIMS tube and back to the top of my Igloo cooler. If everything goes as I envision, the mesh bottom of the basket (I have the solid wall basket) will act as the false bottom, and I've moved the element out of the RIMS tube and put it directly in the vessel. Just like before, I'm sucking out of the bottom of the mash tun, through the pump and back to the vessel. Of course there is the age old challenge of a compacted mash bed! Yes, I had the same problem on occasion in my Igloo Mash Tun /w RIMS. If I crush too fine, used loads of wheat, oats, maize, pumpkin (what a nightmare and never again!!), etc., or if I ran my pump too fast I'd end up with major issues with varied results and resolutions.
As a note or FYI, I'd run my pump very slow. Perhaps, just slightly faster than a sparge. I did this for 2 reason; 1) to keep from disturbing the mash bed and 2) to keep from compacting the bed by too much downward flow or suction toward the pump. I do realize that #1 is in direct contrast with the suspended or whirlpool approach to the mash. My 1st brew will be to treat it just as I have in the past. A slow recirc and let the bed lay. The reason? I don't want to change too much at one time, which has been mentioned previously. I'll tweak and mess with my process in the future.
I hope to finish up my controller rebuild this weekend and will post my experiences once I get around to a functional system/kettle.
Thanks again for the insight and contribution!
Have any of you guys added a profile for your systems in Beersmith? I've been playing around with it and cross referencing the water volumes with the spreadsheet on CBS' website. I've got it so its pretty close. Is the 1.81g per hour boil off rate pretty accurate?
I know Ive tinkered some without any experience and have modified the brew boss 20 gal (you have to add this profile) to include the numbers provided by CBS and go from there unless someone else knows more than I do..which is probable.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
I am hoping by them time I get mine someone has posted a BS profile to have a great starting point.
pretzelb
Well-Known Member
I will have to check but I don't think there is much of a difference in the profile from the existing Brew Boss profile. The loss from tubes and chiller will be unique for everyone I bet. I think (need to ask in another post) trub loss is different for 5g and 10g.
Boil off rate should be unique to your area and the degree you take the boil to. I once tried a test and I think mine is between 1.75 and 2g per hour. That is why I'm trying to keep detailed notes on the volume in inches at each phase. The tricky part is adjusting to the temperature to get accurate readings.
I'm using Beersmith and Priceless and the CO Brewing spreadsheet for each batch. This usually helps me spot errors since now they are all near the same. Priceless is good for the height estimates on volume but it annoys me that I have to enter everything over again each time and I can't export it to text.
If I get to brew this weekend I'll try to post my profile info.
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pretzelb
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I actually requested another arm. It doesn't look like I can brew this week but I will try to post a picture of each arm.
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I did a Founders Breakfast Stout this AM. Got up early to get started but ran into a snag. Strike water got to 140 and the burner just shut down. Nothing seemed to work. Finally, after 2 hours I pumped all the water out took the burner out disconnected everything and, to my amazement, that worked. So, late start but all and all a good day. Recirc arm is just not ideal. Two feet of hose on the end and you are good to go.
All and all not a bad day really loving the system!
I did a Founders Breakfast Stout this AM. Got up early to get started but ran into a snag. Strike water got to 140 and the burner just shut down. Nothing seemed to work. Finally, after 2 hours I pumped all the water out took the burner out disconnected everything and, to my amazement, that worked. So, late start but all and all a good day. Recirc arm is just not ideal. Two feet of hose on the end and you are good to go.
All and all not a bad day really loving the system!
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