UK - The Dark Ape - 1st Home Brew

[monkey_the_pig]

Well I lie it's my 3rd, but the first 2 were badly researched and I made some damn awfull beer.

This time I have a nice barrell, with airlock and made myself a water bath with aquarium heater.

I'm using Coopers Bitter Kit (1.7 all in a can job). and Geordies Beer Enhancer 1kg(instead of the initial 1kg sugar).

On tuesday night I sanitized everything, and put it all in the barrell; 2L boiling water, kit + enhancer, 18L cold water, 1.5 boiling (made roughly 23L i think). then placed on airlock etc.

The water bath is at 23C.

The kit instructions state that it should take 4 days at 27C or 6 days at 21C and advises to bottle when SG readings are steady over 2 days.

However I was a little confused as if I start taking the top off to check SG surely this is letting air in to the barrell (which is a bad idea? i'm not sure). I asked the question on a diff thread and someone said I should just wait 10days, however surely this is too long (from my instructions).

what about using the bubbling rate as a guide as to when to bottle, i heard some people do that?

mine is bubbling about once every minute at the moment. it has been 3days since the start.

I am planning to bottle when first fermentation is finished, I have 40 pint bottles awaiting me. and am waiting for my small measuring spoon set to arrive hopefully soon.

any help would be great as this is my first brew, i'll be updating regularly also.

also in the pic you'll see a red cap no the airlock, what is this for? do I need to use it? I guessed it may be to stop crap falling in through the top of the airlock. do i put it on tightly if i do need to use it? will this not stop the co2 getting out?

also is the layer of foamy brown crap on the sides above the liquid layer ok?

so many questions i'm sorry, if someone has already replyed to me, and you feel differently please add a reply aswell, i may need lots of help.


cheers :rockin:

Monkey

 

[mysterio]

Hi there. I used to use those Coopers kits and they produced good beer, hope you have better luck with this batch!

23 degrees C is fine, I wouldn't let it go too much higher though. Your water bath set up looks great - I might make something like that now its getting warmer.

As for time, wait until there is zero activity in the airlock. If it's still fermenting when you bottle theres a good risk they'll explode. When you add the priming sugar at bottling time you're giving the yeast a controlled amount, so that you can determine the carbonation level in the bottle. Don't worry about the time on the instructions - I'd say ten days is the minimum you should wait. Even leaving it a couple of weeks in the barrel gives it time to condition and you'll end up with better beer. It's not going to go 'off' if you have it sealed with an airlock like that.

Get rid of the red cap for your airlock, it will just pop off when CO2 is bubbling out. The water in the airlock prevents anything going in. The foamy layer on top is a good sign; that means your yeast is working.

Incidently what do you need the small measuring spoons for? If you're planning to add sugar directly to the bottles I advise you just dissolve half a cup of corn sugar/glucose/dextrose in boiling water for 10 mins then stir it in the beer at bottling time. This means your sugar will be evenly distributed and sanitised, too.

Keep an eye on this forum, too. I've learnt a huge amount just browsing over the last few months. Good luck and I hope the beer turns out great

 

[God Emporer BillyBrew]

Mysterio beat me to it, but I have a little to add.

I hate that kind of airlock, if you have a blow out they are very hard to clean. If you ever buy another(and you will if you keep brewing!) I'd recommend a 3 piece.

The brown scum is your krausen and it is normal and expected, it should die down in a day or two. Looks like your in good shape.

 

[monkey_the_pig]

Cheers empero and billbrew,

I'll take the red cap off now then, if anyone disagrees please add a reply.

yes i was going to add sugar directly into the bottles, however i see what you mean. each bottle would taste slightly diff (but that could be interesting!).

Any more suggestions from people for adding sugar before bottling? which type of sugar? where do i get this from? (there are limited brew supplies where i live, just the basics in wilkos - a department store in uk).

I heard another method was to syphon to a second barrell with the sugar in before bottling, as if i mixed in the sugar to the current barrell would this not still up the sediment?

thanks again, keep them comments coming folks,

Monkey

 

[God Emporer BillyBrew]

We use corn sugar around here, but I've used table sugar in a pinch. Some people say it gives a cider taste to the beer, but I didn't notice.

On the second barrel thing, I think that's what Mysterio was getting at. Don't just add the sugar to your beer. Put the boiled sugar water in a bottling bucket and then siphon your beer to that bucket. I like to curl the last foot of my hose in the bottom of the bottling bucket. That seems to mix it well without to much exposure to air. You don't want to just let it splash in there for sure.

 

[Caplan]

Cheers empero and billbrew,

I'll take the red cap off now then, if anyone disagrees please add a reply.

yes i was going to add sugar directly into the bottles, however i see what you mean. each bottle would taste slightly diff (but that could be interesting!).

Any more suggestions from people for adding sugar before bottling? which type of sugar? where do i get this from? (there are limited brew supplies where i live, just the basics in wilkos - a department store in uk).

I heard another method was to syphon to a second barrell with the sugar in before bottling, as if i mixed in the sugar to the current barrell would this not still up the sediment?

thanks again, keep them comments coming folks,

Monkey

If you take the red cap off just make sure you top up the airlock as the combination of CO2 pushing the water out from below in the early stages of fermentation and evaporation from the top of the airlock can leave your beer exposed to nasties. Check it a few times a day to make sure it's topped up.

Corn Sugar/Dextrose/Glucose is all the same thing and is sold in UK supermarkets on the sugar sections - usually next to the 'white granulated'.
Look for the jam sugar/brown sugar bit and you'll find it. My local Morrisons has it.
Use it for carbonation and definately gently syphon your kit off into a separate bucket with a dextrose/glucose solution in it to avoid the sediment when you bottle.

 

[monkey_the_pig]

Hello again,

thanks for the help.

I've filled my second old keg (broken lid) with sanitizer overnight now to clean it ready for using as the sugar adding barrell. will this keg be ok for this (see pic)?

I also had a go at syphoning to practice and think i have that sorted now.

4 days of fermentation now and it's bubbling every 5.5 mins.

I am going to use normal granulated sugar if that isn't too bad? as i don't have time during revision to head to town to get the other types of sugar mentioned.

do I have to sanitize the bottle caps?

i have 40, pint bottles ready. I was going to clean them in sink first with a bottle brush to get any crap off them, then sanitize in a bucket (which will be sanitized on its own first), then rinse with cold water. sound ok?

I have thought of a diff way to dry the bottles without a bottle tree, which may be easier and quite interesting. basically using a metal grid over a tub (i'll post a pic soon).

cheers again, keep those tips coming,

Monkey

 

[homebrewer_99]

IF they wanted you to throw away the red cap they wouldn't have given it to you in the first place...If you look inside the red cap there are some standoffs that allow the CO2 to escape. The cap itself allows any condensation to fall back into the reservoir.

I sanitize my caps by placing them in boiling water for a few minutes. You can't let them go too long in the hot water because the adhesive will come off of the metal and the gummy gasket won't seal properly.

Use only cane sugar, liquid or dry malt extract for priming...skip the table sugar. If you've gopne through all the right procedures and used the right supplies you'll get the product you're aiming for. If you take short cuts you'll be wondering what went wrong...and we all know who to blame - DON'T WE???

As for drying your bottles, are they in racks (plastic cases)? If so, place a napkin in the bottom of each section and place the bottles upside down to drain...

What are you sanitizing with?

 

[monkey_the_pig]

ah brilliant we have a bit of a debate about the red cap! sounds like good advice though, i wondered why they would give me one if i didn't need to use it. I have placed it gently back on now. however now plasitc washer/grommet thing on mine, so have just placed it on lightly.

good advice, i do have plastic cases holding 20 bottles each, found behind my local shop! with a bit of napkin seems the easiest way to dry thanks.

as with the sugar, I had a look on the tesco website (is it ok to mention company/brand names here?) and the only one i could find which may be correct is called Billingtons Molasses Unrefined Cane Sugar (it's brown though is that right/ok?), this is what they say about it...

"If you care about the food you eat, and are concerned about how your sugar is produced, choose unrefined sugar. WHY UNREFINED SUGAR? More flavour. Natural sugar. Minimally processed. Kinder to the environment. Fairly and responsibly traded. Suitable for low fat and low salt diets. This unrefined Molasses sugar is a unique dark brown sugar. It has a richness and depth of flavour unmatched by any other sugar. Why is it so special? It is an unrefined sugar. This means it is a natural product, which has been very simply produced with the aim of locking in - rather than refining out - the natural molasses of the sugar cane. It is this difference that gives unrefined sugar its superior flavour and natural colour."

my housemate just walked in and said that I should be able to find some in town no probs though. is it white or brown?

also how much should i use for 22-23 L of brew? the kit instructions say 8g per L so thats 184g.

I'm sanitizing with Young's brew steriliser and cleaner, which says it's for cleaning brew barrells etc. whoops just read not to get in contact with skin as it's an irritant.. better stop using it to wash my face then!

cheers again,

Monkey

 

[homebrewer_99]

We use 5 oz per 19L, that's about 140g, so your 180+ should be right in line.

I lived in Germany for 9 years so I know that what you call "brown sugar" is unrefined and when refined produces white sugar. I do not recommend using it. Be forewarned, you may get other opinions.

If you could find someone nearby and "borrow a cup of sugar" (dry malt extract) your brew would be much better off...actually a cup and a half would be even better.

We drop brand names and stores all the time so that's not a problem.

I don't know your sanitizer so the best thing is for you to follow the instructions...and switch to lye soap for personal hygiene if you're having that much trouble!

 

[monkey_the_pig]

Thanks again Bill,

So this Cane Sugar / dextroxe / gluecose people are taking about is white ?

Monkey

 

[homebrewer_99]

Thanks again Bill,

So this Cane Sugar / dextroxe / gluecose people are taking about is white ?

Monkey

Yes, and powdery, but it's CORN sugar, not cane.

You're welcome.

 

[monkey_the_pig]

Use only cane sugar, liquid or dry malt extract for priming...skip the table sugar. QUOTE]

Huh?! you said cane sugar yourself. I just found a nice webpage to explain things...

http://www.realbeer.com/spencer/FAQ/sugar.html

that states that cane sugar is table sugar... now i'm getting confused

Monkey

 

[monkey_the_pig]

I went into town today to look for corn/dex/glucose but found nothing of use.

I checked tescos and sainsburys and all there is there is; granulated (pure cane sugar), brown sugar varieties, jam sugar, icing sugar, castor sugar and preserving sugar.

I also checked boots chemist, and found some gluecose however it had added vitamin C!

I'm going to try one more pharmacy tomorrow but will have to give up and use granulated is i can't find any there.

Whats the sugar that you get in morrisons called? as there is a morrisons here just a long distance from my house.

Monkey

 

[homebrewer_99]

Use only cane sugar, liquid or dry malt extract for priming...skip the table sugar. QUOTE]

Huh?! you said cane sugar yourself. I just found a nice webpage to explain things...

http://www.realbeer.com/spencer/FAQ/sugar.html

that states that cane sugar is table sugar... now i'm getting confused

Monkey

I meant corn...sorry!

 

[monkey_the_pig]

haha cheers for clarifying,

so is corn sugar available in supermarkets in america then?

I know a friend of a friend brewing so may borrow 200g of him for this batch. then if the beer tastes nice and i want to continue brewing i'll probably buy a big batch of it off the internet (£6 postage though, so would buy in bulk).

 

[mysterio]

Are there no homebrew supply shops in Swansea?

I've honestly never seen corn sugar in UK supermarkets, but I can get a huge bag of it at my homebrew shop for a pound.

I know people will disagree with me here but IMO there is nothing wrong with using plain old table sugar for priming if you're in a pinch. Some of my friends have used it before and I can't taste the difference. The Belgians use huge amounts of it in their beers after all

 

[homebrewer_99]

I know people will disagree with me here but IMO there is nothing wrong with using plain old table sugar for priming if you're in a pinch. Some of my friends have used it before and I can't taste the difference. The Belgians use huge amounts of it in their beers after all

Yes, they do, but for fermenting, not priming.

I am certain that you can use any fermentable for priming. The problem is how much and to what degree will it effect the flavor of the end product?

I wouldn't call myself a purist, but if you want to achieve a certain end (a particular style of beer) then you just have to follow all the rules for that brew. If you change anything there's the possibility that the product will not be to your liking.

 

[monkey_the_pig]

ah I used brew enhancer instead of sugar for the fermentation, could the same type of enhancer be used for priming aswell?

na no home brew shops in swansea... hmm a gap in the market, maybe I should set one up?

an update: after 5 days of fermenting it is now bubbling every 7-8 mins

thanks again,

Monkey

 

[God Emporer BillyBrew]

an update: after 5 days of fermenting it is now bubbling every 7-8 mins

thanks again,

Monkey

time for the secondary!

 

[boo boo]

I can't beleive no one mentioned this site http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html for this lad. Throw away those instructions that came with the kit as well as the yeast that came with the can and buy fresh yeast such as Nottingham for a start. Read that on0line book and brew great beer.
Cheers

 

[monkey_the_pig]

Hi,

many many thanks to Caplan for suggesting to get gluecose from morrisons, i went today and got myself a packet! wooo! they also have a huge range of bottled ales in morrisons that I spent ages chosing from, very nice.

someone suggested going to secondary now, however do you mean secondary bin fermentation or bottling. As i'm going to go straight to bottle from primary fermentation.

A few have suggested already that I should wait until the bubbling has completely stopped before bottling so that the bottles do not explode, and they suggested this may take about 10days.

unfortunately I have an exam on wednesday so the earliest I can bottle now is wednesday night (so that'll be after 8 days of fermenting).

someone earlier mentioned that because I have an airlock it doesn't matter about leaving in the primary barrell for a long time as no air can get in and the beer won't go 'off'.

I'll check the bubbling rate soon and post again later,

many thanks

Monkey

 

[boo boo]

Patience. Let the beer sit a while before bottling it. Make sure all fermention has finished before bottling. Exploding beer bottles can be a blinding experience and at the very least make a mess, to say nothing of the gusher of beer from opening a overprimmed bottle giving you a beer shower. Wasting beer is a no no.

 

[monkey_the_pig]

Hi again,

here is my bottle dryer. It didn't take any hassle making as i have spare tubs and the mesh is from the top of my guinea pig hutch, don't worry she won't escape!

thanks again, :rockin:

Monkey

 

[homebrewer_99]

I hope you washed and sanitized it...other than that it's probably covered in g.pig sweat...

 

[monkey_the_pig]

haha good point.

I have only given the bottles a brush with washing up water to take off any real stuborn muck and taken the labels off. Before filling them i'll be sanitizing them and rising them (so will sanitize the rack before this).

After 7 days of fermenting now the bubbles are less intense, small single bubble every few mins (instead of rampant bubbling every 8mins). So prob still a few days left I guess.

Do I need to sanitize the bottle caps, as i guess the underside of them will come into contact with the beer.

I looked at some full comercial beer bottles in the shop today, and noticed that the fill lines on them all were slightly diff. from now on i'm taking the fuller bottles from the shelf!

cheers

Monkey

 

[homebrewer_99]

Do you have a bottling bucket and filler?

When you fill the bottle with the filler cane stop the flow (by lifting it) and remove the tube. The tube's area displaces just enough beer that the remaining airspace is just right.

If you don't have a filler tube and bottling bucket you'll have no idea what I'm talking about.

 

[Lou]

Do I need to sanitize the bottle caps, as i guess the underside of them will come into contact with the beer.

yes

 

[monkey_the_pig]

Hi all,

I have a tube for syphoning not sure if its a 'filler tube' but I have a tap to attach also to stop the filling for each bottle. So I should be ok.

Not long now, i'm going out check the bubbling later but I guess it'll be thurs ot fri night that I bottle at the earliest. So i'll get my last 20 bottles scrubbed.

I think I'm all out of questions at the moment! I'm drinking a nice banana beer I bought right now, very nice.

should I wait till the same day as botttling to sanitise the bottles? I heard somewhere that I should, not sure though. there we go I thought i had a question.

any tips / hint for this stage let me know

cheers

Monkey

 

[mysterio]

Yeah, sanatise them as close to bottling as possible. There are all sorts of nasty organisms floating around in the air and you want to minimise the chance they can get to establish themselves in your bottles.