uggg, i stopped using "5.2" PH buffer

Faseel · Oct 22, 2011

So I tapped off 3 batches last night with friends. A robust porter, blonde ale and a black cherry stout. All grain, I used "brewing water" and inputed a very close to the mark water report from my area, only substituting ca and alkaline ppm from my fish tank test kit. I only have the cheap ph test strips (and with darker beers they seem to be impossible to read) but the ph seemed decent and the only adjustments I made were based on "brew'n waters" suggestions. All the beers tasted just one dimensional. The robust porter tastes more like a session porter of some sort, the blonde, well ok, but hop profile seemed light and the finish was simple and with little complexity. All these batches have one thing in common, I stopped using 5.2 buffer and strictly used brew"n water for my water treatment. On all my batches in this run mashing temp were right at or around 151 to 152.F I don't do an official mashout and I fly sparge. My guess is I need to get a more accurate water test done from the point it comes through my carbon filter and perhaps I need to mash a bit higher in temp. Thoughts and help!!?? Are very welcome. Thanks all!

Double_D · Oct 22, 2011

I've use the 5.2 stuff before with disappointing results. By that I mean no measurable benefit over several different batches. I'd look at your malt profile before saying "the water dun it!". If it has a flat flavor or doesn't live up to your specs just dry hop it and take notes for next time. But your robust porter probably needs more roasted malt. The blond might just need more hops at the 10 - 15 min range.

Faseel · Oct 22, 2011

Well, just got results from a local/state competition. No metals, however I got 41 on my score sheet for an oatmeal stout. The reason I bring this up is that beer too was made in the same style as I described above. I guess its time to take more copious notes and continue to refine my methods. My pallet needs some work, seems like im still on the right track.

mcaple1 · Oct 22, 2011

I would say mash a little higher....151-152 will still leave you a "little dry". 155-156 is a good place for a robust porter. Secondly, buy a good thermometer if you don't already have one. I use a thermapen, and you wouldn't believe how far off some of the thermometers of members in my HBC are...floating, digital...whatever...they all seemed to float around 3-4 degrees off from what mine said...and I think I will stick with my value thank you.

mabrungard · Oct 22, 2011

You could be missing the excess sodium from the 5.2 in your beer flavor profile now that you're not relying on it. I think that some sodium is a nice touch. But like anything, you don't want to overdo it.

5.2 Stabilizer is a crutch that only helps in limited situations. One area that it might help is when brewing dark beers. There are better ways to create better brewing water.

Certainly if your tap water profile is inaccurate, it could lead you astray. Figure that one out ASAP. It sounds like you've done some smart adjustments with the aquarium water test results. That is a help, but might still leave the accuracy lacking.

The other consideration is that the tap water may already have too much mineralization to start with. There is little help that any program can provide except telling you that you need to dilute with RO or distilled water. Hopefully Bru'n Water will be a resource for you to figure out what to do with your brewing water.

pH strips are limited. Borrowing a calibrated pH meter would be helpful to double check your mashing results. AJ says its the only way to go. I say its a nice help, but not imperative.

I suggest aiming for around a 5.4 pH for your mash. The history of the model indicate that your mash will end up within a tenth of that pH.

Don't confuse excessive saltiness as a component of your beer's 'dimensionality' and depth. Good luck with your brewing endeavors and keep refining your brewing and water refinements.