Turning your Fermonster into a complete closed transfer system for cheap!

[Dgallo]

Does anyone know the size hole to drill in the lid?

Between 7/16 - 1/2”. 7/16” is tight but will work

 

[secretlevel]

Edit: Revised parts list, does this look like everything needed? It comes out to a bit over $100, plus shipping.

https://www.morebeer.com/view_product/38734https://www.morebeer.com/view_product/37921https://www.morebeer.com/view_product/50266https://www.morebeer.com/view_product/502652 x
https://www.morebeer.com/view_product/39278https://www.morebeer.com/view_product/485065 ft 3/16 liquid line

Looks pretty good! I had to buy a drill bit as well since mine were nowhere as big. This one worked well: IRWIN 1870963 7/16" Impact Hex Shank Drill Bit 42526914591 | eBay

For your disconnects, I'd recommend the screw-on ones rather than the barb types. While barbs will definitely work, I enjoy the ability to be able to unscrew the hose and connect it elsewhere if needed... For this you'll need the extra barbs that screw onto the disconnects.

 

[RyPA]

Regarding those fittings, you'd then need the same style fittings on every component you'd like to share the hose with, right? I'm personally going to make a dedicated line for this, and will not need to share the floating dip tube with other parts of my brew house.

 

[RyPA]

Do you guys find the spigot version of this fermenter useful, or does anyone have any issues with it? I am thinking that having less holes in the fermenter is better but wanted to get some opinions.

If I rig this setup using the non-spigot version, I could pull FG samples through the floating dip tube, with the help of CO2 if needed.

Also, with my experience this past sunday with my stout blowing through my air lock, I am now trying to figure out a plan based on
anteater8's comment regarding krausen clogging the fitting. I wonder if they make emergency one-way valves that can hold up to say 10-15 psi before releasing. Would need to get creative with placement to prevent this from getting clogged too.

Thanks

 

[ihavenonickname]

I got the version with the spigot but now regret it. It’s just another thing to keep clean - especially a concern in a plastic fermenter where sanitization can become an issue.

I would prefer to just get a sample through the floating dip tube. But I also ferment in kegs a lot and am well set up for it. Co2 nearby, duotight based jumper line to valve so easy to rinse out right after. But to be fair I often can’t be bothered to take samples until I’m transferring to a keg anyways.

 

[RyPA]

Agree, cleaning aspect is another good point. It's keeping a seal, additional cleanup, something else that can break.

I never take samples until kegging either but may begin while fermenting, in hopes to be able to drink beer sooner than later. Lately I've been waiting 3 weeks to keg..but maybe I can shave a few days off once I see FG stabilize, then maybe allow a few more days for good measure before going to the keg.

 

[DarrellQ]

I have used this closed transfer method for 8 brews now and it has always gone well while putting about 3-5 lbs of Co2 pressure on the Fermonster. However, during my last transfer, the Fermonster first contorted inward when I connected it to the purged keg, so I determined gas wasn't going in because the ball valve wasn't firmly seated. I adjusted the connector, gas went in, and it sprung back out but then started bulging at the bottom and lid, looking like it could explode, with what read to be about 5 lbs pressure. Maybe my gauge is flaky, I don't know. How susceptible to exploding is the Fermonster when using this process, obviously for which it wasn't intended? Besides making a heck of a mess, would such a catastrophic event be dangerous? I was rather afraid to approach it

 

[ihavenonickname]

“Would a catastrophic event be dangerous?” Uh yeah. These things really can be dangerous especially in closed tanks with a clogged blowoff or PRV but this is mostly relavent during fermentation where pressure is building up unmonitored. Big explosions do happens and pieces of metal fly across the room.
This is conjecture, but I wouldn’t be too worried about a fermonster especially during transfers when you are there to react. It’s likely going to leak pressure at the lid seal or at the BLQDs some time around 30 psi. But why risk it!? Get a spunding valve or working regulator and figure out what kind of pressure you are dealing with.

 

[VikeMan]

I recently fermented a batch with my modded fermonster. I haven't used it much, because it's my backup fermenter. This time, as soon as there was a bit of pressure from fermentation (I was spunding at about 2 PSI), I had wort/beer climbing the floating dip tube and slowly leaking from the interface between the bulkhead and the post. The red arrow in the pic shows where I mean.

This means that the outer edge of the dip tube o-ring was not fully sealing against the inner wall of the post. When I took the whole thing apart, the o-ring appeared to be undamaged. One thing I had noticed was that when the post is screwed onto the bulkhead, it easily bottoms out against the post, i.e. there's little/no resistance from the o-ring, implying little/no compression of the o-ring.

The next time I use this setup, I'm going to use two dip tube o-rings. A few minutes ago, I did a test fit and got that "just right" resistance that I typically get with posts on kegs. I should add that a couple of the kegs in my fleet also get two o-rings on the dip tubes to make sure there's some compression.

I just thought I'd mention this for anyone who may have bought the same style bulkheads.

 

[RyPA]

I noticed something similar with the o-rings that come with these fittings. When attached to the Fermonster lid, you need to hit the sweet spot with tightness or else the o-ring will flatten/bulge out of the side, likely killing the seal. I am going to try to find better o-rings.

 

[dawn_kiebawls]

I realize this should go in the 'for sale' forum but I feel like it might have a better chance here - if anyone in this thread is interested in purchasing the entire setup as outlined in the original post I have all the components (fermentor, floating dip tube, posts, etc) that I would like to sell to someone who will end up using it. I purchased all the components then life got way too busy and I haven't brewed since it all got delivered. It's all brand new. If anyone is interested shoot me a message and we can work something out, otherwise I'll send it over to the 'for sale' forum and see if I can get any action.

 

[VikeMan]

I noticed something similar with the o-rings that come with these fittings. When attached to the Fermonster lid, you need to hit the sweet spot with tightness or else the o-ring will flatten/bulge out of the side, likely killing the seal. I am going to try to find better o-rings.

I think you are talking about the o-ring/gasket that seals the bulkhead against the lid. I was talking about dip tube o-rings. Different failure mode.

That said, when I first bought my parts, I didn't like the way the bulkhead o-rings/gaskets fit. After a little experimentation, I settled on #204 Buna rings, which I put between the bulkhead and the lid and also between the nut and the underside of the lid.

 

[RyPA]

I think you are talking about the o-ring/gasket that seals the bulkhead against the lid. I was talking about dip tube o-rings. Different failure mode.

That said, when I first bought my parts, I didn't like the way the bulkhead o-rings/gaskets fit. After a little experimentation, I settled on #204 Buna rings, which I put between the bulkhead and the lid and also between the nut and the underside of the lid.

Correct, I did specify I noticed a similar issue at a different seal point.

 

[Ridenour64]

Got mine set up and just ordered a second one! Do you guys take the bulkheads off each time to clean or leave in place?

 

[VikeMan]

View attachment 769841
Got mine set up and just ordered a second one! Do you guys take the bulkheads off each time to clean or leave in place?

I disasemble and clean everything. On brew day, sanitize, reassemble, then sanitize again.

 

[RyPA]

Mine keep losing their seal, I think I'm going to try vinyl gaskets as the included rubber ones just get smushed and don't seal.

 

[Ridenour64]

Mine keep losing their seal, I think I'm going to try vinyl gaskets as the included rubber ones just get smushed and don't seal.

Can you link to the gaskets you are looking at? My bulkheads are less than 100% hand tight. If I twisted as hard as I could, like you said, the rubber seal would pop out from under the fitting. I have not actually sprayed the connections to test for leaks yet, but I will at the end when I go to transfer. However, the airlock is working just fine.

 

[VikeMan]

Can you link to the gaskets you are looking at? My bulkheads are less than 100% hand tight. If I twisted as hard as I could, like you said, the rubber seal would pop out from under the fitting.

To avoid this exact issue, I use size 204 O-rings for the bulkheads.

 

[RyPA]

Air lock does work fine, but I do closed transfer and it breaks the seal under pressure.

VikeMan, have a link to ones that work?

 

[VikeMan]

Air lock does work fine, but I do closed transfer and it breaks the seal under pressure.

VikeMan, have a link to ones that work?

You can get #204 O-rings from pretty much anyone who sells O-rings. I buy most of my O-rings from Oringsandmore, so...
https://www.oringsandmore.com/buna-orings-204-70d-minimum-50-pcs/
Also, make sure about where your seal is breaking, as it could be a dip-tube O-ring problem. I've noticed that a single dip tube O-ring doesn't get compressed much when the post is installed onto the bulkhead, so I'll be doubling up in the future.

 

[anteater8]

I run into a small issue with this setup and I'm curious if anyone else has. When I got to dry hop, I attach the gas disconnect, start to open the lid, turn the gas on once gas can escape, keep spinning the lid until its open and toss the hops in. My issue is that by spinning the lid with the disconnect attached, the bolt underneath the lid tends to unscrew a bit. Obviously I want everything kept super tight for a smooth transfer on kegging day. Anyone opening their lid for dry hopping differently?

 

[Dgallo]

I run into a small issue with this setup and I'm curious if anyone else has. When I got to dry hop, I attach the gas disconnect, start to open the lid, turn the gas on once gas can escape, keep spinning the lid until its open and toss the hops in. My issue is that by spinning the lid with the disconnect attached, the bolt underneath the lid tends to unscrew a bit. Obviously I want everything kept super tight for a smooth transfer on kegging day. Anyone opening their lid for dry hopping differently?

I open mine the same as you. Your ballock connect should be able to rotate some while connected without spinning the bulkhead post.

are you pushing a gas ballock onto a liquid post? The co2 balllocks are slightly smaller and could cause that.

 

[anteater8]

I open mine the same as you. Your ballock connect should be able to rotate some while connected without spinning the bulkhead post.

are you pushing a gas ballock onto a liquid post? The co2 balllocks are slightly smaller and could cause that.

I actually started attaching a liquid disconnect to the liquid post so that the co2 comes up from the surface through the floating dip tube. Maybe I just need to tighten everything up a bit better, its just frustrating when I need to leave the lid open longer to tighten that bolt.

 

[RyPA]

I'm trying to get my bulkheads locked on. They sit on there able to spin with a little force which I don't like. Thinking new washers and maybe some type of sealant (black RTV?)/silicone to lock them in place

 

[wsmith1625]

Looking at the pic @Ridenour64 posted, his o-rings hardly look compressed. I put a wrench to the nut and the post and snug it up pretty tight. I've had no issues with them leaking or coming loose. I also leave them on and soak the entire lid when cleaning and sanitizing.

 

[ihavenonickname]

I am having trouble with leaks around my o rings as well - not sure what else I can do, I’ve got a good looking o rings on the inside and outside of the lid, still leaks at just a few PSI.

 

[ihavenonickname]

.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

I am having trouble with leaks around my o rings as well - not sure what else I can do, I’ve got a good looking o rings on the inside and outside of the lid, still leaks at just a few PSI.

That quick disconnect looks like it has some stories it could tell!

Sorry, cannot help much with the leak. I have had decent luck with my setup, though I don't run it with any presssure.

 

[Broken Crow]

I am having trouble with leaks around my o rings as well - not sure what else I can do, I’ve got a good looking o rings on the inside and outside of the lid, still leaks at just a few PSI.

It might sound counter intuitive but, is there a chance you over-tightened? Easy mistake to make, but tightening much more than hand-tight causes the o-ring to bind in one point and lift in another causing leaks. Usually, just one o-ring on the inside is enough.

 

[ihavenonickname]

It might sound counter intuitive but, is there a chance you over-tightened? Easy mistake to make, but tightening much more than hand-tight causes the o-ring to bind in one point and lift in another causing leaks. Usually, just one o-ring on the inside is enough.

Oh. Yeah. I was using a wrench…. . I’ll give a try tonight