Turning your Fermonster into a complete closed transfer system for cheap!

[Brewer dad]

I suspect I know what folks response will be but I’ll ask anyway.

Been using this method with great sucess(borat voice), managing to avoid blowoffs even with high gravity raw ales fermented with kviek. Alas what got me was a brown ale with WY Yorkshire, and now I even have the blowoff going into the second keg I daisy chained.

The keg this beer is going into was obviously cleaned sanitized, and I’ve always done the same with my lines just in case this happened. What do yall think? Roll with it or start over? I feel fairly confident in my sanitation process but I am also somewhat concerned about the blowoff running through that gas post and not cleaning it.

Thanks!

 

[Yesfan]

I suspect I know what folks response will be but I’ll ask anyway.

Been using this method with great sucess(borat voice), managing to avoid blowoffs even with high gravity raw ales fermented with kviek. Alas what got me was a brown ale with WY Yorkshire, and now I even have the blowoff going into the second keg I daisy chained.

The keg this beer is going into was obviously cleaned sanitized, and I’ve always done the same with my lines just in case this happened. What do yall think? Roll with it or start over? I feel fairly confident in my sanitation process but I am also somewhat concerned about the blowoff running through that gas post and not cleaning it.

Thanks!

I'd make sure the gas post is not clogged, but if some blow off got into the serving keg, not a big deal. Some of us also ferment in our serving kegs so we have more yeast at the bottom than one with some blow off.

 

[Brewer Mike]

And 'Oh!' again.. I only just realized I had put up a picture of 2 units in which one of them had a TC end...Sorry for any confusion. My goal was to have a single unit I could adapt to any fermenter and I did make one that I can use with a 2"TC for use with a sanke keg as a fermenter.
I should probably also mention here that if you assemble one: Make sure and feed the floating diptube hose through the tee and attach before you screw the bulkhead down. Hope this picture is more clear than my words:
View attachment 826566

I finally got around to trying this. I'm having trouble getting the NPT joints to seal - even with thread tape. Did you have any issues?

 

[Broken Crow]

I finally got around to trying this. I'm having trouble getting the NPT joints to seal - even with thread tape. Did you have any issues?

I had no problem, but just to check; Did you source your parts from an honest vendor? The only problems I've run into usually steps from parts sold as 'NPT' when they're actually mixed with BSP or that wierd metric thread.
Mine have about 5 or 6 turns of regular white teflon tape.

 

[Brewer Mike]

I had no problem, but just to check; Did you source your parts from an honest vendor? The only problems I've run into usually steps from parts sold as 'NPT' when they're actually mixed with BSP or that wierd metric thread.
Mine have about 5 or 6 turns of regular white teflon tape.

Damn, maybe that's it. I bought some from Amazon, but the liquid post has no way to attach a dip tube! What do they expect you to do with that? Mount it at the bottom of your keg?
Anyway, I bought another from Aliexpress. The threads seem to match like any other NPT, but even with tape and cranking them down pretty tight, I put some Starsan in and a little pressure, and get the Starsan bubbling out. Maybe I'll try a little silicone caulking on the threads.

 

[Broken Crow]

but the liquid post has no way to attach a dip tube!

Do you mean the included diptube is too short to attach a silicone line, or there is no SS diptube at all?
I've seen that most floating diptubes for sale, with the exception of the ones for Fermzilla's, usually include a long enough SS diptube with an inch or so below the bulkhead. Can you post a pic of your parts all laid out?
EDIT: Here my bulkhead/diptube;

 

[Brewer Mike]

Do you mean the included diptube is too short to attach a silicone line, or there is no SS diptube at all?
I've seen that most floating diptubes for sale, with the exception of the ones for Fermzilla's, usually include a long enough SS diptube with an inch or so below the bulkhead. Can you post a pic of your parts all laid out?
EDIT: Here my bulkhead/diptube;
View attachment 839373

No dip tube at all. And that piece is machined as one piece. No way to at one.
PSA - don't buy this for this type of setup
TAPCRAFT Homebrew 19/32-18 Ball Lock Post with 1/2 Inch NPT Thread Bulkhead Assembly New Ball Lock Post (Liquid+Gas) Amazon.com

 

[Dgallo]

Maybe a new thread is in order for the different build that is being discussed? Figure it would be less confusing for people trying to build either of the setups if they were in separate threads

 

[mac_1103]

No dip tube at all. And that piece is machined as one piece. No way to at one.

Get a 1/2" female NPT to 1/4" barb adapter.

 

[Broken Crow]

Maybe a new thread is in order for the different build that is being discussed? Figure it would be less confusing for people trying to build either of the setups if they were in separate threads

That's a fair point, though given that the liquid post which @Brewer Mike might be purchased by someone looking to do the regular style in this thread, I'm hoping we can find a workable solution other than having to buy a new post with a proper diptube.

Get a 1/2" female NPT to 1/4" barb adapter.

^With that, you could easily attach it as a bulkhead directly on the lid, but not be able to use in the cross-configuration....
Sorry, but I'm coming up blank on anything other than getting another liquid post that does include the usual diptube;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/npt12tokegpostliquid.htmhttps://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/floatingdiptube.htmI'll keep thinking on...maybe someone else had an immediate solve?

 

[Dgallo]

That's a fair point, though given that the liquid post which @Brewer Mike might be purchased by someone looking to do the regular style in this thread, I'm hoping we can find a workable solution other than having to buy a new post with a proper diptube.

^With that, you could easily attach it as a bulkhead directly on the lid, but not be able to use in the cross-configuration....
Sorry, but I'm coming up blank on anything other than getting another liquid post that does include the usual diptube;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/npt12tokegpostliquid.htmhttps://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/floatingdiptube.htmI'll keep thinking on...maybe someone else had an immediate solve?

You can buy a replacement dip tube for a balllock keg and then cut it to the size that works for your set up.

 

[Broken Crow]

You can buy a replacement dip tube for a balllock keg and then cut it to the size that works for your set up.

I'd hope he could do that, but looking at the pics and his description, it seems to be a totally non-standard bulkhead that simply doesn't have the diameter to drop a diptube into. Such a bulkhead wouldn't work for any configuration on this thread.

 

[Dgallo]

No dip tube at all. And that piece is machined as one piece. No way to at one.
PSA - don't buy this for this type of setup
TAPCRAFT Homebrew 19/32-18 Ball Lock Post with 1/2 Inch NPT Thread Bulkhead Assembly New Ball Lock Post (Liquid+Gas) Amazon.com

What set up are you trying to build? The one I posted in the OP of the thread? Of the one @Broken Crow has?

I think this is where I’m confused. Because if it’s the original, you should easily be able to make that work with a threaded barb.

 

[mac_1103]

if it’s the original, you should easily be able to make that work with a threaded barb.

Yeah that was my thought in #519. I mistakenly bought a set of posts similar to those once (for a different build) and the threaded barb solved the problem. You'll be wanting an o-ring too of course.

 

[Broken Crow]

What set up are you trying to build? The one I posted in the OP of the thread? Of the one @Broken Crow has?

I think this is where I’m confused. Because if it’s the original, you should easily be able to make that work with a threaded barb.

Yeah that was my thought in #519. I mistakenly bought a set of posts similar to those once (for a different build) and the threaded barb solved the problem. You'll be wanting an o-ring too of course.

He's trying to build my 'Fermhead' version, but I totally agree; A female 1/2"NPT>1/4" barb would allow it to be used in the standard 2-holes in the lid. Apologies but I can't find such a fitting listed on any site.

 

[mac_1103]

Barbed Hose Fitting Air and Water, 303 Stainless Steel Adapter, 6 mm ID x 1/2 NPT Female

 

[IslandLizard]

Barbed Hose Fitting Air and Water, 303 Stainless Steel Adapter, 6 mm ID x 1/2 NPT Female

$32.63 per pack of 1
Plus $$ shipping by McMaster's...
<ugh!>

 

[Bob C.]

I fill a keg to the brim with starsan solution and have 7 gallon bucket. I connect the co2 post of the fv to the co2 post of the keg and then connect the kegs liquid post to a 3ft hose at the bottom of the bucket.

the co2 from fermentation will push all the Solution from the keg to the bucket which completely purges the keg of oxygen and then the bucket becomes an airlock.

Could I just connect the CO2 post to a 3 ft. hose to the bucket?

 

[mac_1103]

$32.63 per pack of 1
Plus $$ shipping by McMaster's...
<ugh!>

Ugh indeed. TBH I didn't even look at the price. You can probably put something together a lot cheaper at your big box home improvement store even if you have to use multiple couplings/adapters.

 

[Dgallo]

Could I just connect the CO2 post to a 3 ft. hose to the bucket?

Without any liquid?

 

[Dgallo]

Ugh indeed. TBH I didn't even look at the price. You can probably put something together a lot cheaper at your big box home improvement store even if you have to use multiple couplings/adapters.

They have nylon ones that you could use I believe. Also brass. But if you can fine stainless, def go stainless

 

[Shenanigans]

Hi Guys,

Sorry if it's been asked before but I have put together a setup like the original post with a fermonster the two stainless steel posts.
I'm fermenting with a blow off tube but if I put it in my fridge it bearly fits (posts scrap the top of the fridge) so I can't put anything on there.
Will it be ok just to keep it totally closed when cold/soft crashing?
The contraction from cooling down from approx 70F to 55F won't damage the fermonster right?
It's only filled up to the 6 gallon mark so there's space for the loss of volume from the contraction.

 

[Dgallo]

Hi Guys,

Sorry if it's been asked before but I have put together a setup like the original post with a fermonster the two stainless steel posts.
I'm fermenting with a blow off tube but if I put it in my fridge it bearly fits (posts scrap the top of the fridge) so I can't put anything on there.
Will it be ok just to keep it totally closed when cold/soft crashing?
The contraction from cooling down from approx 70F to 55F won't damage the fermonster right?
It's only filled up to the 6 gallon mark so there's space for the loss of volume from the contraction.

The amount of vacuum created will be determined by how much headspace there is. The more headspace, the bigger the vacuum.

You can put the fermenter under 5 psi before putting in the fridge to cool. The pressure will drop but it should be enough positive pressure to start avoid a vacuum

 

[Shenanigans]

The amount of vacuum created will be determined by how much headspace there is. The more headspace, the bigger the vacuum.

You can put the fermenter under 5 psi before putting in the fridge to cool. The pressure will drop but it should be enough positive pressure to start avoid a vacuum

Great, thanks for the tip.

 

[Broken Crow]

Hi Guys,

Sorry if it's been asked before but I have put together a setup like the original post with a fermonster the two stainless steel posts.
I'm fermenting with a blow off tube but if I put it in my fridge it bearly fits (posts scrap the top of the fridge) so I can't put anything on there.
Will it be ok just to keep it totally closed when cold/soft crashing?
The contraction from cooling down from approx 70F to 55F won't damage the fermonster right?
It's only filled up to the 6 gallon mark so there's space for the loss of volume from the contraction.

I think earlier in this thread someone else had the same overhead issue so they used 90° elbows on the lid to make space.
Dunno if that's an option.

 

[Shenanigans]

I think earlier in this thread someone else had the same overhead issue so they used 90° elbows on the lid to make space.
Dunno if that's an option.

Thanks, I'll search and see what that looked like.

 

[Broken Crow]

Thanks, I'll search and see what that looked like.

I just went to my 'beer-bits' bench and threw this together to give you a rough idea;

Of course though, you'll run into a similar problem that @Brewer Mike is having and won't have access to a diptube (at least not easy-access, and you'll probably have to put a female NPT>barb fitting on the inside;

I used a 1/2" barb because that's what I had laying around... finding one in stainless seems to be problematic. @Dgallo 's nylon barb suggestion is probably your best bet.
Just spitballin' and hoping to be helpful... let us know what you end up doing.

 

[Brewer Mike]

I'll keep thinking on...maybe someone else had an immediate solve?

Thanks, Broken Crow. Since I already have the one from Aliexpress, I'll keep trying to find a way to get a seal on that.
Going forward, tough, I'm thinking Fermzilla. With all the parts, and depending on the model, Its getting comparable in costs. My LHB shop has the older flat bottom for $49, but it's not pressure rated. I wonder if anyone's tried it under pressure?

 

[Brewer Mike]

What set up are you trying to build? The one I posted in the OP of the thread? Of the one @Broken Crow has?

I think this is where I’m confused. Because if it’s the original, you should easily be able to make that work with a threaded barb.

As Broken Crow mentioned, This was an attempt at his version.
I had built your version, but found it finicky to get a seal. If I tighten to much, my silicone washers mush out between the post/nut and the lid. You wouldn't have links to the washers/seals would you?

 

[Dgallo]

As Broken Crow mentioned, This was an attempt at his version.
I had built your version, but found it finicky to get a seal. If I tighten to much, my silicone washers mush out between the post/nut and the lid. You wouldn't have links to the washers/seals would you?

Here is the article I wrote for Brew Your Own for this build. The part list portion has the orings I used. But over tightening with cause the issue discussed. I used orings on both sides of the lid.