True brand beer meister troubleshoot
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raouliii
Well-Known Member
Great find. Looks like a TDD-1? I'm not a refrigeration expert by I have had to learn a bit about the TRUE commercial units as I have two GDM (Glass Door Merchandiser) units. I would suspect that the TRUE kegerator units function similarly. Yes, the compressor and condensor fan should cycle on and off together. The evaporator fan inside should always run. Does it appear that anything has been modified in the unit? If you suspect a bad thermostat, research the replacement thoroughly.
My TRUE GDMs use a thermostat called a Constant Cut-In Control, that monitors the evaporator internal temperature, NOT the air temperature of the interior, which is a fundamental difference for a thermostat. The temperature probe is inserted into a hollow tube built into the evaporator. The thermostat operates with evaporator temperatures that drop to well below freezing during normal operation. Once the evaporator temperature is reached, the compressor is turned off and it will not "cut-in" until a specific temperature, well above freezing, is reached at the probe. This is all done in order to provide a defrost for every cooling cycle and does not allow short cycling of the compressor to occur, which allows these commercial coolers to run trouble-free for years.
When obtained, my GDM-12 had been modified with an air sensing thermostat in an attempt to use it as a ferm chamber and not having the original, I had to research a replacement. I ended up installing a Ranco A12-701 thermostat with a 23.5deg Normal OFF / 41deg Cut-In temperature and it runs like a dream as a corny cooler.
Good Luck
My TRUE GDMs use a thermostat called a Constant Cut-In Control, that monitors the evaporator internal temperature, NOT the air temperature of the interior, which is a fundamental difference for a thermostat. The temperature probe is inserted into a hollow tube built into the evaporator. The thermostat operates with evaporator temperatures that drop to well below freezing during normal operation. Once the evaporator temperature is reached, the compressor is turned off and it will not "cut-in" until a specific temperature, well above freezing, is reached at the probe. This is all done in order to provide a defrost for every cooling cycle and does not allow short cycling of the compressor to occur, which allows these commercial coolers to run trouble-free for years.
When obtained, my GDM-12 had been modified with an air sensing thermostat in an attempt to use it as a ferm chamber and not having the original, I had to research a replacement. I ended up installing a Ranco A12-701 thermostat with a 23.5deg Normal OFF / 41deg Cut-In temperature and it runs like a dream as a corny cooler.
Good Luck
raouliii said:
Yea, it's a TDD-1. It does have the same cut in/ cut out thermostat control. Seems to be all original parts, I know the guy who sold it to me did not change anything. As I was tinkering with it last night, the cut in seemed to work when adjusted but not the cut off. Perhaps I just did not let it get cold enough. Though 32 deg in the in the box seemed pretty cold to me. So if the box was that cold the internal temp of the evaporator must have been much colder.
The service manual said that cut in Is set at 36.5 and cut out is at 16. I didn't realize that wasn't the box temp.... Now I've messed with the temp settings and Probly made it harder on myself. Damn my impatience
. Guess I'll just let it run and see what happens. Did your GDM-12 take awhile to get to temp first time around?
raouliii
Well-Known Member
I have a thermometer in my GDM-12 but I try not to look at it much since it changes drastically during the cooling/defrost cycle of the unit. The important thing is that you set your temperature control such that the temperature of the beer is where you want it to be, everything else takes care of itself.
I assume you adjusted the cut-in/cut-out settings? These are base settings that allow the control to have the cooling duty cycle needed for the desired temperature range over the range of the control knob. If you can get a temperature probe into the evaporator, you can recalibrate the thermostat with the control knob @ 5. The service manual has you remove the evaporator fan blade to gain access.
I assume you adjusted the cut-in/cut-out settings? These are base settings that allow the control to have the cooling duty cycle needed for the desired temperature range over the range of the control knob. If you can get a temperature probe into the evaporator, you can recalibrate the thermostat with the control knob @ 5. The service manual has you remove the evaporator fan blade to gain access.
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raouliii
Well-Known Member
How long did it run? Compressor could have just tripped on an overheat condition. Let it cool and try again.
My GDM-10, with the factory thermostat bypassed, ran constant for quite a few hours with the door blocked wide open with no ill effects. My add-on temperature controller had powered back up after a power outage. Condensate pan was overflowing since it was essentially dehumidifying my garage in June for hours.
My GDM-10, with the factory thermostat bypassed, ran constant for quite a few hours with the door blocked wide open with no ill effects. My add-on temperature controller had powered back up after a power outage. Condensate pan was overflowing since it was essentially dehumidifying my garage in June for hours.
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