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Trouble drilling starter hole in stainless steel pot

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I use a punch, drill press, cutting oil, cobalt bit. Then I switch to a punch to get a nice clean hole.
This is the punch I use, it's cheaper to get the slightly larger one, but I find this one is the "correct" size for most 1/2" fittings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NQWZWU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Sand the edges to deburr, wash with dawn to remove the oil and your done.

my Bayou Classic has been punched as well. the 90 degree street elbows are great on the inside of this pot, and flow better, and have less deadspace in the bottom than my SS brewtech since I was able to put it right where I wanted it! :)
 
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I apologize if I wasn't clear in my previous post. When I thought I had work-hardened the initial spot, I started another one about 6" away. Same result. Just spins and spins.



I was using my Craftsman 17586 NEXTEC Drill/Driver set to LO speed which maxes out at 400 RPM. I was barely pulling the trigger making it around 100 RPM and using a brand new Colbat 18/" drill bit form Dewalt + Tap Magic Cutting Oil.



I was using Tap Magic + a desk fan blowing on the area at the same time. :confused:



What bit did you use? Do you recall. Anyway, yes, it was on my new Bayou Classic 1062 pot. I swear that thing is made from titanium or something. I even tried to drill another just 3" away from the rim of the pot (to install a whirlpool arm) with almost all my weight and the rim barely flexed! Whatever Bayou Classic uses, it's really hard & thick stainless!

$18 HF step bit... the one that comes in the 2 pack of 2 sizes... I had the same issue until I swapped drills.

I did since find the punch kit at HF and bought that to punch holes in my metal brucontrol control panel... it would have likely been easier to use with the kettles too but you still need a starter hole.
 
I use a punch, drill press, cutting oil, cobalt bit. Then I switch to a punch to get a nice clean hole.
This is the punch I use, it's cheaper to get the slightly larger one, but I find this one is the "correct" size for most 1/2" fittings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NQWZWU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Sand the edges to deburr, wash with dawn to remove the oil and your done.

my Bayou Classic has been punched as well. the 90 degree street elbows are great on the inside of this pot, and flow better, and have less deadspace in the bottom than my SS brewtech since I was able to put it right where I wanted it! :)

$18 HF step bit... the one that comes in the 2 pack of 2 sizes... I had the same issue until I swapped drills.

I did since find the punch kit at HF and bought that to punch holes in my metal brucontrol control panel... it would have likely been easier to use with the kettles too but you still need a starter hole.

I see!

FWIW, on that note, to anyone reading this, please do NOT use the Knockout Punch Kit from Harbor Freight to punch holes in your kettle.

Since it is a conduit punch kit, the holes will be slightly too large and they will leak like crazy. I made this mistake on my first kettle for both my element mount and my 1/2" NPT bulkhead. I was forced to track down thicker O-rings to solve the problem.

For my new kettle, I used Greenlee radio knockout punches instead which are the proper diameter. Therefore I could use regular O-Rings without leaks.

  • Greenlee 730BB 1-1/4" (31.8 mm) for Camco element
  • Greenlee 730 13/16" Round Radio Chassis Punch for 1/2" NPT (Weldless bulkhead, thermometer, and "Spin Cycle" whirlpool arm from BrewHardware.com)

Here are some photos of the final product!

20170820_134421.jpg


20170820_134511.jpg


20170820_134626.jpg
 
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I use a punch, drill press, cutting oil, cobalt bit. Then I switch to a punch to get a nice clean hole.
This is the punch I use, it's cheaper to get the slightly larger one, but I find this one is the "correct" size for most 1/2" fittings.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NQWZWU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Sand the edges to deburr, wash with dawn to remove the oil and your done.

my Bayou Classic has been punched as well. the 90 degree street elbows are great on the inside of this pot, and flow better, and have less deadspace in the bottom than my SS brewtech since I was able to put it right where I wanted it! :)

Oh the punch (i have that exact one) is amazing! Perfect holes through stanlless fast and easy. Greenlee makes high quality stuff.

I had two Bayou pots, did two 120V elements on one with a stepbit. Also did a panel before I got the punch. What I will say for drills is fresh bits, lubricant, pressure, and slow speed. A drill press is ideal. My last drilled hole was difficult as the starter and step bit had been dulled from prior use. Takes little to dull the bits or harden the stainless.
 
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Nice work! Is that a 120v heating element? Does it take long to boil?

220V. Takes about 20 minutes to bring ground temp water to full boil.

You can see details of my setup here (note: this is from last year and I've made quite a few changes/improvements since).

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOK0h97D1RY[/ame]
 
For what its worth I had some new but cheap bits that did nothing for the stainless kettle, small cut and an indent at most. I tried for 2 hrs and figured I hardened the steel even though I was probably cutting at 200 rpms with lots of cutting oil.

Someone had mention in one of the many threads to use a masonry bit to drill it out but that idea was shot down fairly fast. I found a youtube video that mentioned the same thing. So i found a masonry bit and drilled the hole without problem, worked amazing with lots of oil and about 300 rpm. Then used a step bit to cut out a 1 1/4 hole for a heating element. Took about 2 min start to finish. Going to use the same method for the 2 remaining holes.

Hope this helps someone.
 
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