Treating Brass

[brewit2it]

I bought a shank/faucet combo from Ebay since it was pretty cheap. It is a basic one, not stainless. I know there is some concern about leaching lead from the brass and I think I recall reading somewhere here you can treat brass prior to use to decrease the risk of lead contamination. Does this ring a bell with anyone and anyone know the procedure?

But now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure my shanks from kegconnections are the same type and I never worried about them. I did upgrade to perlick faucets but have the standard shanks. And pretty much all the faucets in my house in the kitchen and bath are brass I assume, so probably not worth worrying about it.

Thanks

 

[Hang Glider]

I keep reading about this - but every where I look, it says Brass = copper and zinc, with no mention of lead.

Manufacturing process, perhaps?


to answer your question, however, the posts I see around here mention soaking in white vinegar to 'remove the lead' -

 

[NorthRiverS]

Agree with the above statement. There is no lead in brass unless it is welded. Brass is a zinc and copper alloy.

NRS

 

[brewit2it]

I wouldn't be so sure. I think pretty much all brass contains some lead. And it isn't just trace contamination. It is added intentionally to make it more maleable to make irregualrly shaped items, like faucets for instance. California prop 65 requires warning lables on brass fixtures and other items made of brass. Apparently lower pH liquids actually leach less so I am thinking beer with all the carbonic acid from the CO2 might not be as bad as just tap water.

Appreciate the comments and interested in more info.

 

[Inodoro_Pereyra]

Yep, brewit2it is right.
Lead is added to various metals, like brass, copper and aluminum, to increase their machinability.
If you ever try to machine pure brass (I've had to do it, years ago) you will find out it's a real PITA. Depending on te copper/zinc ratio, it will either clog your cutting tool or it will make a gazillion little "needles", and you will have to turn it at excessively low speeds (think about 10-20 rpm) to avoid getting vibration marks all over the part.

So, being that valves and other plumbing parts have to be machined, the addition of lead makes them easier (and cheaper) to manufacture.

 

[brewit2it]

Yep, brewit2it is right.
Lead is added to various metals, like brass, copper and aluminum, to increase their machinability.
If you ever try to machine pure brass (I've had to do it, years ago) you will find out it's a real PITA. Depending on te copper/zinc ratio, it will either clog your cutting tool or it will make a gazillion little "needles", and you will have to turn it at excessively low speeds (think about 10-20 rpm) to avoid getting vibration marks all over the part.

So, being that valves and other plumbing parts have to be machined, the addition of lead makes them easier (and cheaper) to manufacture.

Thanks for the input. I came accross this article. Patent request actually. basically they say to first put the brass in a heated basic soln (like automatic dish detergent in water I am thinking), to bring out the lead near the surface, then soak in an acid soln (vinegar) then rinse. I might try this but wondering if the chrome will get jacked up. Come to think of it I think chrome has lead in it as well lol.

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5958257/claims.html

 

[Inodoro_Pereyra]

Thanks for the input. I came accross this article. Patent request actually. basically they say to first put the brass in a heated basic soln (like automatic dish detergent in water I am thinking), to bring out the lead near the surface, then soak in an acid soln (vinegar) then rinse. I might try this but wondering if the chrome will get jacked up. Come to think of it I think chrome has lead in it as well lol.

http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/5958257/claims.html

Hmmm...nope. It's nowhere near as simple as that. Read the whole thing: it includes ultrasonic agitation (which, in layman's terms, can be translated as "money"), the basic solution needs to be a caustic solution, with a pH higher than 10 (there goes your detergent theory. You need straight lye water), a strong mineral acid treatment (my guess would be sulfuric or hydrochloric), and then the use of another, phosphorous containing acid (phosphoric acid???), before actually using acetic acid to rinse.
And that's just what they tell you. You'd need to know the particulars of the process they use.
As far as I'm concerned, a mixture of expensive equipment, nasty chemicals, high temperatures, and who knows what else... You're better off just buying SS stuff.

 

[brewit2it]

Hmmm...nope. It's nowhere near as simple as that. Read the whole thing: it includes ultrasonic agitation (which, in layman's terms, can be translated as "money"), the basic solution needs to be a caustic solution, with a pH higher than 10 (there goes your detergent theory. You need straight lye water), a strong mineral acid treatment (my guess would be sulfuric or hydrochloric), and then the use of another, phosphorous containing acid (phosphoric acid???), before actually using acetic acid to rinse.
And that's just what they tell you. You'd need to know the particulars of the process they use.
As far as I'm concerned, a mixture of expensive equipment, nasty chemicals, high temperatures, and who knows what else... You're better off just buying SS stuff.

I read it all but was simplifying it. They say it will work better with the agitation not that it wont without it. I haven't read automatic dish liquid in awhile but it is pretty darn caustic and I think it is a strong base but if not lye is easy enough to get. Industrial strength drain cleaner comes to mind. And they actually say somewhere in there that acetic acid is the preferred acid. It might not be perfect or following every step exactly but it wont be too hard to bring the surface into contact with a heated base for a bit then in acetic acid then rinse. Might not be perfect but it will make me feel better.

 

[Inodoro_Pereyra]

Seems to me like we're reading it differently, though.
The way I see it, the brass needs to be treated with all 3 acids ("mineral acid", "carboxylic acid" and "phosphorous containing acid"), besides the Lye water bath. That and, later on, you'd need a way to accurately determine the final lead content, in order to know how effective your treatment was. I doubt it'd make sense to go through all that trouble, just to save a few bucks on plumbing supplies.

 

[DeafSmith]

John Palmer, author of "How to Brew" and a metallurgist by profession, recommends a solution of two parts white vinegar to one part hydrogen peroxide. See here:

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixB.html