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I have a spreading broadleaf week, creeping charlie. After some reading, it appears I may have to bag the clippings until the bugger is dead. Throwing the clippings only further spreads the weed. I am going to do the borax treatment I have found on the web. al other alternatives I have tried did nothing. It is slowly taking over my 2 acres...
 
I always collect my clippings, but I like the idea of recyling that mulch back into the earth...it just makes sense. Rather than throw it away, there is obviously some great fertilizer and organic matter. However, when I've left the bag off my lawn is just one big disgusting mat of dead grass. Is there some way around this? Is there some way of making the grass clippings smaller so they fall down between the grass instead of sitting on top?
 
I always collect my clippings, but I like the idea of recyling that mulch back into the earth...it just makes sense. Rather than throw it away, there is obviously some great fertilizer and organic matter. However, when I've left the bag off my lawn is just one big disgusting mat of dead grass. Is there some way around this? Is there some way of making the grass clippings smaller so they fall down between the grass instead of sitting on top?

you need a mulching blade and a block off for the exit. most already have the mulching blade. and it doesnt take long for the brown to fade into the green when you water. but if you do bag build a compost pile. doesnt take much work and every spring or fall yuo have fresh compost for say spredding and over seeding with a rye.
 
oh one more thing. for clay soil you can use either gypsum or gypsite. one needs to be worked into the soil the other just needs to be spread. it helps break up the clay.

Loosen Clay Soil With Gypsum

its gypsum that you want. spread it using the directions on the bag and aerate the lawn.
 
I always collect my clippings, but I like the idea of recyling that mulch back into the earth...it just makes sense. Rather than throw it away, there is obviously some great fertilizer and organic matter. However, when I've left the bag off my lawn is just one big disgusting mat of dead grass. Is there some way around this? Is there some way of making the grass clippings smaller so they fall down between the grass instead of sitting on top?

the only good way to combat this is to mow more frequently. the mulching blade will help, but if the underside of the mower is plugged with grass, it won't work very well.
 
Mowing. Raise that mower. Have 2 1/2 to 3 inches clearance between the bottom of the deck and the ground. That's right. No more putting green lawn. The grass won't grow if we cut off all the grass leaving no grass left to grow. Grass cut too short allows weeds in, water to run off or evaporate before being used, leaves roots unprotected, allows for burning in the heat of summer, is less resilient to foot traffic and more susceptible to pests and diseases. A mowed lawn should be higher than the top of your foot when you stand in it. Yes! We're gonna stand in our grass, not on our grass.

i understand your basic point here, which is cut higher, which i would definitely recommend for home owners. but what you're stating isn't wholly true. as far as traffic tolerance, short cut grass on athletic fields will actually form a more dense root system, although not as deep, and can increase traffic tolerance. as far as insect, weed, and disease pressure, i will agree with you that when a grass is cut short and only cut once a week, you are increasing the stress level by violating the "1/3 rule". however, when you cut grass often and short, you increase lateral growth & tillering, getting a thicker, healthier lawn, so it will, in fact, be less susceptible to pests of all kinds.

Thatch holds in moisture. Less watering to be done with more existing water utilized. It holds back weeds. It insulates the roots from cold and shades them from heat. Thatch is also fertilizer. No need to buy what you make for free each time you mow. Green lawn clippings are great sources of nitrogen. Nitrogen makes green grass. Look at that bag of whatever fertilizer. That first number, the highest number- that's nitrogen. Thatch also improves soil composition as it biodegrades. It also makes a great place for essential soil microorganisms to grow.

Thatch is fertilizer? Not sure what you mean by that. Returning clippings is a great practice, and it does provide some nutrients, but not nearly enough if you want a truly green/lush lawn. "De-thatching" is kind of a catch-all term. While I agree that power raking isn't necessary, aerating is one of the best practices you can do for your lawn. A small layer ~1/2" of thatch can be beneficial for lawns, but a large thatch layer can actually trap water and nutrients and harbor insects and disease. The nice thing is most homeowners don't need to worry about too large of a thatch layer because earthworms love to eat it. And just to add in, returning clippings will NOT significantly contribute to your thatch layer.

If you normally mow left to right, mow up and down a few times a season. If you normally mow up and down, mow left to right a few times a season. Alternating the direction opens up the lawn.

Great suggestion, quit burning in those lines just because it looks good.

for the most part your suggestions are right on, but i just wanted to clarify a few things.

water your lawn in the winter a few times too if possible. ever notice how grass is always greener around the gutter spouts in the winter?
 
Aerating is good. If by aerating we mean, basically, poking holes in the ground. It's an easier and less stressful (to us and the grass) way of dealing with thatch. Aerating breaks up the thatch and turns over some soil. Both things aid in biodegrading the thatch. When it does, it's fertilizer. Soil builder, if one prefers. Too much aerating though can just tear up the lawn.

As for using athletic fields as an example of mowing grass shorter to increase durability in high traffic areas, the turf of athletic fields and the primarily St Augustine grass of my yard are two different grasses. There are also a multitude of maintenance practice differences to consider. It undoubtedly works on the turf used in the appropriate application when maintained accordingly.

The best mulching blade I used was the Ninja for Snapper. Currently, I use a plain blade on a plastic Honda. It works. Not as well when there are a lot of leaves but, I'm not shelling out the bucks for a Snapper.
 
Well, I ripped the tranny out of my old Handa HRZ and have started using it for the flat bits at least. It is a true mulching mower that uses two blades stacked atop one another. It's the only mower I have had that didn't create the grassy windrolls. I'll use the SP Deer for the hillside and when I bag.

I expect what I'll do is a rotation. One cut with the Honda, the next with the deer, wash, rinse, repeat. This way I'll feed bot the lawn and the compost heaps plus keep both mowers running regularly.

I took a notice of the lawn in the hood. While I am still battling some weedy bits, mine is by far the deepest color of green on the street. Love that Scotts fertilizer. I have decided that I am alos going to aerate the lawns as well. The flat bit in the back near the house isn't growing too well compared to the rest of the lawn and I suspect it's too compacted. $75 for 24 hours is the least expensive I can find for the equipment rental and taht is even cheaper than hiring the job.

Oh! And BTW if anyone is planning to buy a Craftsman Qucik connect weed eater and a edger. Don't! Keep the $85 for the attachment and get a proper edger. I had one for two years before it was time to change the blade. Went to do that and shattered the housing trying to get the bolt off. It's designed with slots where you are supposed to jam a screw driver in to lock the rotor. Well the housing is practically whipped aluminum and will break apart with any amount of shear applied.

At first, I figured I just goofed. Went and got a new one but thought I'd loosen the nut first before I used it. Glad I did. After checking teh manual, I placed the driver in the slot, grabbed a long handled crescent for leverage and went to loosen the nut. Yup. Shattered the housing on that one too.

Fugitabowtit! Bought a dedicated 4 cycle edger instead.
 
As for using athletic fields as an example of mowing grass shorter to increase durability in high traffic areas, the turf of athletic fields and the primarily St Augustine grass of my yard are two different grasses.

st. augustine is a whole different animal. one that definitely does not tolerate short mowing and also one of the biggest thatch producers.
 
Okay so I had myself a lengthy discussion with a professional sod grower who specializes in Bermuda. Long story short, he set me to a challenge with a guarantee. Here what I done per his instruction;

1.) I cut my lawn to 1.5 Inches tall.
2.) I watered for 2 hours to attain 1" of water (cup method).
3.) I core aerated. (5-1/2" plugs).
4.) I applied fertilizer (Scotts Turf Builder with Weed Control), Gypsum, and Ironite Mineral supplement per man recc rates.
5.) I lightly watered everything in (1/2 hour).

I will follow all this up with a minmal weekly mowing at 1.5" and water when needed to 1" (impressions left by foot, blueing, wilting).

His guarantee is that by the end of the month my lawn will be greener, thicker, and healthier than it has ever been before with few to no weeds.

His justification is that, by repeated cuttings the runners will branch out (like topping or heading a tree) causing the grass to form a dense mat that will block weeds from growing through. And that, the infrequent watering will force the roots to go deep into the soil and the grass will take on it's natural drought tolerance characteristics.

He further added that this would have to be done THIS month as this is the most active growing month for Bermuda in this Zone (7a) and this is the only time that it will recover from being scalped in this manner.

His guarantee is that if by the end of the month my lawns aren't looking better that he will pay for the aerator rental ($65), fertilizer ($45), and 6000 gallons of water ( a whopping $12.00).

I figure I had nothing to loose. My lawn at 3.5 Inches tall already looked like hell.
 
Last night I said to hell with all you people! :D
I'd been mowing my grass at the 2nd to highest setting this year based off this d*mn thread and and have been mowing constantly with my grass always looking bad. Granted it did really thicken up, but crap that means more to mow and harder to push the mower through. Last night I set the mower 2nd to lowest (down 2 settings from previous) and went to town. Should buy me more time between mowing. I'm glad I don't live in an area where everyone has perfect lush lawns. I don't know where you all find the time. I hate the hour mowing even takes away from my evening. I get 4.5 hours from coming home from work till my son goes to bed. The less time I can spend doing yard work, the more I get to spend with him. Stupid yard work.
As I was mowing the backyard I was visually planning the largest brick patio I could without it looking ridiculous!
 
It's not even been a full week since I went drastic on my lawns. The front yard is still recovering from teh chop but, the back yard is already springing back to life. Large patches that were lifeless and near death are greening up and softening out now.

Now if I could just figure out why my Blueberries and Rasberry plants are withering away. :mad:
 
I agree fully with "water when it wilts". You will get MUCH better root depth and next year, those areas wont need water, or very little.

Also, I am still mowing mine high, it was already thick... but it helps the lawn retain water by shading the ground and roots.

I gave up on Scotts.... I am now using MEIJER brand and have had much better results, at 50% of the cost.

I have used WEED B GONE from Ortho to spot kill weeds... I had about 10-20 weeds TOTAL, so a full lawn application seemed silly.

My grass gets cut at 3.5" once per week. It ends up at about 5.5 inches tall by the time I mow it.
 
I gave up on Scotts.... I am now using MEIJER brand and have had much better results, at 50% of the cost.

I was using the "Expert" brand ( a Pennington product, IIRC) and I found it fed the weeds better than it killed them. The granule consistency was poor too. That stuff had a LOT of dusty like material which made for poor distribution from my drop spreader.
 
The Meijer brand has quite large granules and spread very evenly from my broadcast spreader. I also have not seen an issue with weeds, none more so than the past 18 months with Scotts.

Until I find a compelling reason to pay 2x as much for Scotts... I am using the "generic" stuff.
 
The Meijer brand has quite large granules and spread very evenly from my broadcast spreader. I also have not seen an issue with weeds, none more so than the past 18 months with Scotts.

Until I find a compelling reason to pay 2x as much for Scotts... I am using the "generic" stuff.

I don't blame ya'. If I could find a quality "generic" I would too.
 
How often are you guys fertilizing? Once a season?

the normal recommendation for homeowners is 0.5-1.0 lbs N/1000 ft sq in the fall and the same amount in the spring. quite frankly, you can put as much fertilizer as you want on the grass and if you want a good response, find a local pesticide/fertilizer distributor and get some straight Urea Nitrogen from them (usually a 46-0-0 analysis). more and more, research is pointing to not needing much P or K (especially P) to keep your grass happy.
 
How often are you guys fertilizing? Once a season?

I fertilize about 5x a year. Early spring, late spring, mid summer, fall and then the winterizer...

I also use Ortho Weed B Gone to spot spray any weeds that think about emerging... AND I spray a 3' swath of my neighbors yards where they border mine to keep thier weeds from infesting my grass.
 
Depends on the product. IIRC, with this Scotts 28N-?P-?K fert I am using, they "want" you to apply every 3 to 4 months. But mostly, I let the grass tell me when to apply. I have a sloped front and back yard so, I don't usually get the full 4 months benifit. Especially if we have some downpours which is usually how it goes here. Nothing for 2 months and then 1 inche in 30 minutes.

The algea blooms in the lakes are lovely tho'.
 
Thanks to Meijer Brand lawn products. And, sweat. I am cutting it 3.5" high, the temps here are normally 85-90F during the day and mid 60's at night. If I go much lower, I have to start watering. Currently it can go about a week without water before it begins to wilt. It really needs to be mowed every 5 days... if I can.

Gila... I have a sloped back yard too, I hear ya on the downpours. I generally let my grass tell me when to fertilize too, as well as water.

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Pol, I gotta comment on your edging. What do you use? I currently use my weedwhacker and lets just say it gets less than beautiful sometimes.
 
Pol, I gotta comment on your edging. What do you use? I currently use my weedwhacker and lets just say it gets less than beautiful sometimes.

You arent going to like my answer...

Old school, $10 HAND edger from Sears. Yah, the wooden handle, little wheel sort? In 90F heat, it is hard, but that is how I roll. My neighbor has a gas powered edger, but I cant bring myself to have all of these self propelled machines, it makes me lazy. The day that I cannot edge my lawn by hand, is the day I die...
 
You arent going to like my answer...

Old school, $10 HAND edger from Sears. Yah, the wooden handle, little wheel sort? In 90F heat, it is hard, but that is how I roll. My neighbor has a gas powered edger, but I cant bring myself to have all of these self propelled machines, it makes me lazy. The day that I cannot edge my lawn by hand, is the day I die...

The day I edge by hand, is the day I die. Expansive clay soils. And I don;t care for the weed wacker edged look.

Nice looking lawn. I tried 3.5 on my Bermuda and it got too thin. At 1.5 it's looking good but still greening back up.
 
Yah, my yard care plan is obviously based on my grass species. In the mid summer, Kentucky Blue really likes 3+ inches of height. Not only will it promote deeper roots, but it offers plenty of shade to the underlying soil.

When I say soil, I mean clay... hard clay.

Hand edging is hard, but if I keep up on it, it isnt SO bad.
 
Yeah.

I posted earlier that I am told Bermuda is the opposite. Apparently, it wants to be short to dig deep. Uggg. I can't imagine edging by hand in clay. It'd be easy enough in the dry times but after each rain the deep grove disappears and you start over.

I used to run the weed wacker attachments and it works great cept' they don;t make anything solid anymore so I went with a dedicated edger. i still miss the maneuverability of the edger attachment.

I can't believe how quickly my lawn has recovered since I core aerated. I mean Wow! the back was nearly all brown last week and now it's patchy green at worst. Wahoo.
 
DIY ALL THE WAY.

And I don't even own a lawn. How about something that doesn't need to be mowed for ****'s sake. America is pig disgusts me.
 
my lawn looks like the pasture in the back of the pol's pics. i don't treat it with anything excepting the lawn motor once o week or so. there's lots of clover, dandelions, goats beard, thistle, and other wild flowers. we keep it about mid calf length in the back forty so the bees and bunnies have somewhere to play, but keep the front trimmed up a bit nicer. no fertilizer, or herbicides will i drop a dime on. ;)
 
I hire out to treat my lawn. It's especially necessary with me being away now, but even when I'm at home there's so much else to work on in the yard.
 
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