Totally overwhelmed and need help! Please.

[YD_Stretch]

Good morning everyone,

I have spent time attempting research on the boards, reading the wiring diagrams and fiddling around on my own. The good news, I haven't electrocuted myself yet; the bad news, I can't get the system to work.

I envisioned a RIMS system with a control box and originally was going with propane for the boil kettle. After trying to wire a PID, probe, SSR, heat sink, 2 pumps and the RIMS, I am ready to trash the whole thing.

I need help with a parts list with available sourcing websites (please don't just tell me to go to Auberin, I get lost easily). Or if there is already a thread that I have missed on this, please link me.

I have the availability of 240 from a generator, or the availability of tapping into a dryer plug with an extension and an electrician buddy promised beer. I tried wiring my first controller 110, and everything lit up, but I couldn't figure out the Chinglish translation for the PID.

My ideal system would have a RIMS monitored MLT on one PID and an electric kettle monitored on another PID. I have a spare small panel that I can wire if needed and can find an enclosure at HD that I can modify. If I'm on the wrong track, please let me know. I am fairly handy and have access to an electrician payable in beer. I just need the parts and some know-how.

I love the idea of electric brewing and want to improve. I know I need help and from all I have been reading, this is the place.

I have attached a couple of pictures of the current incarnation. Please don't laugh, the brewery is in pieces as I am not brewing any time soon.

Thanks again,

Stretch


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[augiedoggy]

maybe it would help if you posted a diagram of what youve done so far so we know whats wrong?

 

[YD_Stretch]

Thanks. I am going to scrap the current design and want to make a new control box similar to the electricbrewing.com design or the "kal clone" (?) that everyone mentions. I just posted the pics to show my first attempt. I have a stipend check coming in and want to spend it properly, not enough to buy the whole DIY kit, but hoping that HBT can help me out.

I'm looking to do 10 gallon batches eventually. Right now I'm brewing 5 gallon batches with poor efficiency that take me 7 hours start to finish. I feel I'm doing so many things wrong, I want to start over and go electric.


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[heckels]

There's a thread on here titled something like "list of PJ electrical diagrams". Do a search on that.

Not only does PJ lay out all of the wiring but he also gives you the part numbers of all the components.


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[augiedoggy]

There's a thread on here titled something like "list of PJ electrical diagrams". Do a search on that.

Not only does PJ lay out all of the wiring but he also gives you the part numbers of all the components.


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Yes keep in mind though that the aubrins components in pjs diagrams will cost you an extra $150-$200 so mentioned you dont have enough currently for a kals clone but I bet youll have plenty if you go with mypin TD4 pid with heatsink and ssr ($33 with shipping for all three)and $6 for RTD sensor total=$39

the aubrins stuff is great and their tech support is better but the a pid from them with the same manual mode capability+ heatsink +ssr and rtd sensor(cheapest they have) will cost you over $90+ shipping. this is for one...set of pid control components...
factor in the 100% markups they have over the same stuff from direct sellers such as amazon or ebay for thier switches and relays and it adds up very fast.


It really up to you on how much you want to spend.
I built my whole control box for $232 with the three mypin pids and sestos timer plus all the gizmos like the volt/amp meter and switches and relays... also that includes the xlr and switchcraft connectors, two pwm speed controllers and I estimated the $50 is would have costed for the two relays and pc powersupply for the 12v pwm/pumps I use... you may want to use regular $150 chugger/march pumps if your feeling like spending an extra $300 though.. they are larger and more heavy duty although the additinal flow is completely not needed except for whirlpooling applications

 

[YD_Stretch]

Thanks everybody! I have subscribed to all of the P-J posts and agree about the cost for all of it.

Augie, any shot you have links you could PM me to the gear for the control box? And a decent translation on how to use the PIDs. I have the chiggers and cut the plug to hardwire to my first box, I guess I'll just wire plugs back on. I was looking on eBay and Amazon for the PID, sensor, SSR combo and found a few, but not sure which one I need.

I appreciate all the help.


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[NoCornOrRice]

P-J's diagrams and Kal's theelectricbrewery.com website are beautifully laid out, with very thorough lay-text descriptions of how to build a simple or complex control panel. Auber parts are at a premium, yes, but they are good quality and have become the standard for e-brewing. There's nothing cheap about e-brewing, but it's not hard either. If you have not already established a good background in electrical theory, the primers on HBT in the electric brewing are very, very good as a place to start.

 

[augiedoggy]

P-J's diagrams and Kal's theelectricbrewery.com website are beautifully laid out, with very thorough lay-text descriptions of how to build a simple or complex control panel. Auber parts are at a premium, yes, but they are good quality and have become the standard for e-brewing. There's nothing cheap about e-brewing, but it's not hard either. If you have not already established a good background in electrical theory, the primers on HBT in the electric brewing are very, very good as a place to start.

Thats the thing.... they are good quality but the mypins work great too and the quality is good but the manuals arent so great... and the switches and relays and ssrs that aubrins sells are not thier own... they just stock locally and sell the same stuff at double the markup price.... I really dont want this to turn into a off topic pissing match but from what the owner has stated thus far he could use the extra savings.... if you want to drive Cadillac thats fine ... nothing wrong with choosing a chevy either. if someone wants to spend extra for bling or ease of wiring by following the schematics that's great we have impressive builds here and economy Dont forget its the beer that matters here. Don't put down other products if you don't have not justifications for it... your just spreading misconceptions by doing so.
just my 2 cents...
stretch, I'll look for links tomorrow.... the pid you have now will work fine for a hlt but you want something like the TD series ones for the bk with manual mode...

 

[augiedoggy]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087O6S2A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?N=4294959356&Keyword=hpc

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAGNECRAFT-...431?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d1607eae7

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-T...321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e2c8f1d1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UN3F-2pcs-O...453?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f29d827bd

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Position-...784?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20ca669090

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-220V-L...557?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd5a6ce4d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3Pcs-AC-220...816?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48596fa720
and I used bargainfittings.com for most of my weldless fittings and orings and such...

 

[YD_Stretch]

Wow!! Thanks!


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[stlbeer]

Just remember, who you're going to be relying on for support. Auber has great support.

If you're fine with that, then great. However, what hasn't worked to date? What has changed since you built your panel the first time?

 

[YD_Stretch]

Thanks stlbeer,

I agree that I will need support, so I think I'll be sourcing some parts from Auber after all. I just caught your own E-Brewery thread and subscribed so I can go back to it! I want to do what you did, but go RIMS without the HERMS HLT.

I think I can modify P-J's electrical diagram that you posted, but if he's listening by any chance, I'm looking for a diagram that's 30A from a mini panel with a GFCI breaker and a dryer outlet that can run a PID-controlled RIMS with a 1000w element for the MT and a 4500 or 5500 element in the Boil kettle. The BK doesn't necessarily need a second PID, I guess. Maybe just a rotary(?) switch that controls the amount of power by percentage to the BK element. 100% to reach boil, then dial it back to maintain the boil.

If anyone has seen such a diagram, please link me, because I haven't.

Thanks for all the support, I really appreciate this community!

- Stretch