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deadboy

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I keep looking at schematics and designs and before I actually put wire to anything I just want to be sure.

In all of the designs I see it shows two hot wires going to the elements at 240v. I picked this one at random but they are all the same:

Auberin-wiring1-a11d-RM-SYL-2352-5500w.jpg


JUST TO BE SURE, I'm running the two hots to the element and grounding from the keg to ground bar, right?

I'm sure this is an old and dumb question but I couldn't think of a way to search it out.
 
That all depends on if you have 220v heating element or 110v elements. As far as grounding goes, what I did was weld a ground stud to the kettle and tie ground there from the control panel ground bar that is fed through the spa panel, of course, fed from your service panel. If you have 220v elements, yes you have 2 hots going to the element. If you have 110v elements, you have 1 hot and 1 neutral wire feeding the element.
 
I definitely have a 220 heating element. I know THEORETICALLY the current is out of phase but as far as just wiring it I wanted to make sure that there's not another piece of kit that I need to hook up to make it work. I'm not an electrician but I am generally clever enough to follow a diagram. I just worry when dealing with stuff I've not done before.
 
I definitely have a 220 heating element. I know THEORETICALLY the current is out of phase but as far as just wiring it I wanted to make sure that there's not another piece of kit that I need to hook up to make it work. I'm not an electrician but I am generally clever enough to follow a diagram. I just worry when dealing with stuff I've not done before.

Yes, if you are running 220v elements, you have 3 wires going to the element, the 2 hot 110v connections, and the ground. Ground of course tied to the metal keg, or enclosure around the element (or better, both). The 2 hots connect to the screws on the element.
 
Ok, you've both answered my question but I'm going to ask it again in a slightly different way, because it's serious. There are two connecting screws on the element and nothing for a ground. As I understand it that is normal. Coming from the GFCI breaker in the main box there are four lines:
Power 1
Power 2
Neutral
Ground

The power 1 and 2 plus ground will go to plug for the element from my control box. The ground will connect to the kettle and the power 1 and 2 lines connect to the two screws on the element, correct?

Thank you both so much in advance. I know it seems like a dumb question but it's been bugging me to the point that I almost decided to scrap it and go with 2 or 3 120v elements because I absolutely know how they work.
 
One more nooby question while I'm proclaiming my ignorance. I see that particular style of schematic drawing done frequently. What is used to make it?
 
Ok, you've both answered my question but I'm going to ask it again in a slightly different way, because it's serious. There are two connecting screws on the element and nothing for a ground. As I understand it that is normal. Coming from the GFCI breaker in the main box there are four lines:
Power 1
Power 2
Neutral
Ground

The power 1 and 2 plus ground will go to plug for the element from my control box. The ground will connect to the kettle and the power 1 and 2 lines connect to the two screws on the element, correct?


Thank you both so much in advance. I know it seems like a dumb question but it's been bugging me to the point that I almost decided to scrap it and go with 2 or 3 120v elements because I absolutely know how they work.

I highlighted you question and your statement is absolutely correct. The 2 hot lines go to the element connections and the ground goes to the kettle. The neutral is not run to the kettle at all UNLESS the heating element is powered with 120V.

P-J
 
One more nooby question while I'm proclaiming my ignorance. I see that particular style of schematic drawing done frequently. What is used to make it?

If you are referring to the diagram you linked in your first post (this thread), it was drawn by me. All of the diagrams I draw have my "P-J" in the legend. I use a program called "Microsoft Image Composer" to make the diagrams. They are drawn using bits and pieces that I make up. I also use some images that I've resized to show various components.

Once the diagram is completed, I then convert a copy of the file to a JPG image file so that it can be printed. The referenced drawing in Image Composer is about 18 meg in size in Image Composer format.

I hope this makes sense.

P-J

Edit: Also I always create the diagram so that when printed it can be done full scale on Tabloid paper (11" x 17") so that it is much easier to read and work with.
 
Wow, thanks everyone. I feel a lot better about proceeding with my build. And that's very cool P-J. It looks tres professional so I assumed it was something like an autocad for electrical schematics or something.
 
PJ is the man for sure, a lot of us have working systems because of him, thanks again PJ!!
 

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