Thinking about running rims set I got in score?

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Mainebrew

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So I have been doing some homework on this system for a single mash infusion. I got the pump and the heat exchanger (electric) and I am starting on the stand this week and mounting all hardware. I am going to use a ranco contrller for the heating element and am going to use a on/off switch fwith a potentiometer for pump speed. But I am wandering on the efficiency and the proper use and how long of a mash at a semi constant heat with this set up?

Any help would be great?
 
I'm in the process of designing a full all grain setup, and I wanted to warn you about using a potentiometer on your pump. I do believe that the pump is going to expect constant voltage , and you can burn out your pump. Another option is to use ball valves to restrict flow, but make sure they are after the outlet of your pumps, not on the inlet.
 
A pot will go up in smoke in a split second they're not rated for any high current loads, a rheostat with the capacity to handle the pump amperage is one solution or better yet a autotransformer. You must remember these AC motors will overheat and can burn up under those undervoltage conditions your going to want it to operate under.

On Milwaukee 120 volt power tools these motors can run on AC and DC 120 volt, I have run their large porting tool grinder thru a autotransformer without any under voltage heating problems. Maybe because this Milwaukee tool motor can be run on DC besides AC. I have not encountered any over heating problems plus still had speed control down to almost 10% of maximum rpm's. Towards the lower rpm's torque fell off rather quick when loading down even with a carbide cutter porting aluminum intake manifolds and heads.
For complete and accurate plus correct speed control you should be running a 90 volt DC motor with the proper speed controller for that motor.
 
I would recommend using an Hz drive if you’re going to run @ a lower speed. But if you just want to just set it and forget it you can get away with a ball valve on the o/f side and let it run "IF" it's a magnetic drive pump.
 
Remember a RANCO can only switch 16A at 120VAC and even less at 240VAC. There is also some debate on whether or not a simple ON/OFF temp controller will offer adequate control in a RIMS heater. You may need a PID and SSR...
 
Thanks POL I get what your saying. A Ranco will handle the element end of it as I am only drawing 10 amps on a 3800 watt element @ 1/2 power so 110 volt 1900 watts. As for the pump I will probably wire it to full on and put a downstream vavle for now. I do have the RIMS controller box that I will have to take a picture to show you guys. but the elemnt side is no NFG.
 
Thanks POL I get what your saying. A Ranco will handle the element end of it as I am only drawing 10 amps on a 3800 watt element @ 1/2 power so 110 volt 1900 watts. As for the pump I will probably wire it to full on and put a downstream vavle for now. I do have the RIMS controller box that I will have to take a picture to show you guys. but the elemnt side is no NFG.

I am confused about your volts and amps.... if you are running a 3800W/240VAC element at 110VAC, this is what you will get:

WATTS: 798W
AMPS: 7.3A

If you run a 3800W element at HALF the voltage, you will get 1/4 of the wattage at half the amps as if you ran it at full power, 240VAC.
 
If you need to run 120V, I would get a 120V element. While I don't have a RIMS setup, my HLT is electric. I use a 120V 2000W element and have had excellent results.
 
Ppl generally do not use 120VAC elements in a RIMS heater, they are not ULWD and could scorch the wort. This is why almost every RIMS build uses a 4500W element operated on 120VAC. This by default makes it ULWD. Be careful with the HWD elements in contact with wort.
 
Gotcha! Like I said, I am only using electric for heating my HLT so I don't have any experience with RIMS. Thanks for setting me straight!
 
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