Thinking about going eBIAB system. Need some convicing :D

[Austinjs0102]

Hey Everyone.

Im fairly new to homebrewing. I started back in 2015 but have been off and on with it due to moving, getting engaged and overall space and time. Now as things are settling down, i am looking to get back into it.

My dilemma right now is 3 Vessel vs a EBIAB.

If i went 3 vessel it would be a 15 gallon set up, electric as i would like to brew inside. I have a basement room with a drain location, water faucet and the ability to run the electrical for a reasonable amount.

I do not plan on doing anything larger than 5 Gallon for some time. I also do not have a budget of 5k to spend.

So this is why i leaning to a 10 to 15 Gallon eBIAB set up. I can use a 30amp breaker, 5500w element and it will use a lot let space as well as cost. I have the ability for a pulley system but squeezing the bag is a bit of a concern.


Some of my questions and thoughts are:

1. Should i sparge if i go EBIAB? Will it get better efficiency?
2. Will a 10 gallon pot be enough for doing 5G BIAB or should i look at a 15G pot.
3. Ebrewery has a panel for $575 which seems reasonable. Do any of you who do eBIAB have a cost break down for your panel?
4. Overall, i just want to know your successes with BIAB as i really want to get into more brewing but i just cannot pull the trigger without some good advice.

Currently my set up was a 15G Kettle with propane and a Cooler mash tun. It worked but i want to be able to brew in the winter and when temps hit -40F, its not an option to brew outside.

Also, If moving to eBIAB with a pump set up, how many ports should i be looking at on the kettle or overall what would be the best configuration.

Thanks again

 

[jrodmfish]

1. Possibly... I recirculate my mash continuously and raise to 68F before I remove the bag. I don't really squeeze and I'm at about 72% efficiency for standard gravity and about 65% for high gravity. Grain costs at 5-10gal are cheap enough that adding a little extra is no big deal.

2. I'd go 15gal if you can. That'll give you more flexibility on batch size and strength. Remember your grain bag needs to sit above your element so a high gravity mash may not fit in a 10gal. If you have a 15gal pot already, why not use it?

3. I have that panel. I did the diy kit. It was a little cheaper that way.

4. Overall I love eBIAB. My brew days are much shorter than with my 3 vessel gas system. I can brew anytime in any weather, and the cleanup is much easier.

My kettle has two ports... a main port, and a dedicated whirlpool port.

 

[Austinjs0102]

1. Possibly... I recirculate my mash continuously and raise to 68F before I remove the bag. I don't really squeeze and I'm at about 72% efficiency for standard gravity and about 65% for high gravity. Grain costs at 5-10gal are cheap enough that adding a little extra is no big deal.

2. I'd go 15gal if you can. That'll give you more flexibility on batch size and strength. Remember your grain bag needs to sit above your element so a high gravity mash may not fit in a 10gal. If you have a 15gal pot already, why not use it?

3. I have that panel. I did the diy kit. It was a little cheaper that way.

4. Overall I love eBIAB. My brew days are much shorter than with my 3 vessel gas system. I can brew anytime in any weather, and the cleanup is much easier.

My kettle has two ports... a main port, and a dedicated whirlpool port.

Thanks so much for that.

i was looking into the DIY kit as it will save some cash.

I am thinking of getting a spike brewing 15G with the 2 ports added too it. I really just want to be able to brew whenever i want, have it be fairly simple yet still complex and fit the space i have. I am really leaning on a BIAB set up, especially since its a bit more reasonable .

Thanks for that!

 

[wilserbrewer]

How bout a 12 - 15 gallon kettle, a bag and a 3500w induction cooker?

All you need IMO.

Control panels and recirculating pumps make work in my simple world.

Whatever you choose, I would start with a very basic simple e BIAB and build from there....you may realize that's all you need

Why do you want complex, is the beer better lol j/k.

Don't worry about squeezing, just let the bag drain well and maybe spend 50 cents more on grain.

 

[TexasWine]

Hey Everyone.

Im fairly new to homebrewing. I started back in 2015 but have been off and on with it due to moving, getting engaged and overall space and time. Now as things are settling down, i am looking to get back into it.

My dilemma right now is 3 Vessel vs a EBIAB.

If i went 3 vessel it would be a 15 gallon set up, electric as i would like to brew inside. I have a basement room with a drain location, water faucet and the ability to run the electrical for a reasonable amount.

I do not plan on doing anything larger than 5 Gallon for some time. I also do not have a budget of 5k to spend.

So this is why i leaning to a 10 to 15 Gallon eBIAB set up. I can use a 30amp breaker, 5500w element and it will use a lot let space as well as cost. I have the ability for a pulley system but squeezing the bag is a bit of a concern.


Some of my questions and thoughts are:

1. Should i sparge if i go EBIAB? Will it get better efficiency?
2. Will a 10 gallon pot be enough for doing 5G BIAB or should i look at a 15G pot.
3. Ebrewery has a panel for $575 which seems reasonable. Do any of you who do eBIAB have a cost break down for your panel?
4. Overall, i just want to know your successes with BIAB as i really want to get into more brewing but i just cannot pull the trigger without some good advice.

Currently my set up was a 15G Kettle with propane and a Cooler mash tun. It worked but i want to be able to brew in the winter and when temps hit -40F, its not an option to brew outside.

Also, If moving to eBIAB with a pump set up, how many ports should i be looking at on the kettle or overall what would be the best configuration.

Thanks again

1. Yes, you'd get better efficiency with a sparge, but I would go with a 15 gallon kettle and avoid the sparge step.
2. See #1.
3. I went pre built from Brau Supply. My 120v "panel" (not sure I'd classify it as such) would have been around $300 or so if I had bought it stand alone. Looks like they have one that would fit your needs for $410. My opinion, the simplicity of eBIAB doesn't require a big panel like you see on other electric systems. I've seen some builds that just look silly because there's a controller, a switch for the pump and one for the element, on this big honking enclosure.

https://brausupply.com/products/unibrau-controller-240v?variant=1033763804

4. Been eBIAB now for about 20 months. I like it a lot and right now can't see myself switching to anything else. I like my set up because it allows for easy step mashes, which I do frequently. It also allows me to do things like pre heat my water over night without the need to baby sit. I like the alarms that notify me when I've hit certain temps, the ability to control my boil off rate, and my consistency is better. And it doubles as a sous vide cooker!

But there's a lot to be said about @Wilserbrewer advice. If the things I've listed above aren't what floats your boat, might not be the thing for you. Compared to a simple single vessel BIAB set up, there's more to clean, set up, break down, and to figure out how to brew on. That last point should not be taken lightly. I had some road bumps along the way before I got a few core processes dialed in. Now it's smooth sailing.

And ... One ports is what I went with. Of course I'm ignoring the fact that you'll want another hole in your kettle for the element. Don't forget that one!!!

 

[Jorb]

I've got right at $300 in a DIY panel including the RTD probe, cable, and power cord. I'll try to find a picture for you.

 

[RM-MN]

1. Sparging always gets you higher efficiency. Without it you leave some sugars in the grain. You decide if it is worth it to you. With a simple pot, a bag, and a Corona style mill I got 80% efficiency with no sparge. With sparging I exceed 85%. Sparging with a bag can be as simple as pouring some cold water through the bag of grains. Not much effort in that.
2. I've done a few 5 gallon batches in a 7.5 gallon pot. It isn't the best situation but it is possible. 10 gallon would be better, 15 maybe better yet and will allow you to do 10 gallon batches.
3. I like Wilserbrewer's idea, simple but effective. Maybe you want to do a lot of step mashes and the electric panel with all the fancy stuff will be worth it to you. I like cheap and simple. I might even go to an electric element instead of the induction heater. It's your money so you have to decide how you want to spend it. However, keep in mind that basic hardware is a necessity for brewing beer but grains are what makes beer. I can buy a lot, a real lot of grains for that $575.
4. The success of all grain BIAB should be evident if you have read this forum for very long. Many of us regularly exceed 80% efficiency wtih nothring more than a pot, a bag, and some way to heat the water. No pumps to clog or quit in the middle of a brew session, no electronics to fiddle with, no hoses to come uncoupled and pour wort all over the floor. Simple and effective.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Avantco IC3500 induction cooktop
http://www.webstaurantstore.com/ava...ooker-208-240v-3500w/177IC3500 208*240.html

About $180 shipped

Perhaps cheaper and easier than installing an immersion element in your kettle, but not as powerful or easily manageable from a control standpoint.

An interesting alternative IMO.

 

[McKnuckle]

I use the Avantco IC3500 and really enjoy my easy brew days. I do have a simple pump that recirculates from the bottom of my kettle to the lid. I plumbed a Brew-mometer into the inlet for temperature monitoring. The recirc allows me to get a decent temp reading from the system. Without it, temps are all over the place and I couldn't stand that.

My kettle does lose heat during the mash, but the Avantco has a temperature setting that goes down to 140F in 10 degree increments. It's not ultra precise, though. If I set it to 150F during a 152F mash, it will slowly climb to around 154F. But it's enough of a compromise for me to babysit the mash a little bit and toggle the cooktop on/off a few times during the hour.

I consider it about 80% of the full-on PID setup with a lot less of the cost and complexity. I also like not having elements in my kettles. And I can brew in multiple kettles, including a small 11 qt one for test batches. I can also use the kettles on a burner or stovetop because they don't have electrical components inside them.

 

[brewprint]

Hey Everyone.

Im fairly new to homebrewing. I started back in 2015 but have been off and on with it due to moving, getting engaged and overall space and time. Now as things are settling down, i am looking to get back into it.

My dilemma right now is 3 Vessel vs a EBIAB.

If i went 3 vessel it would be a 15 gallon set up, electric as i would like to brew inside. I have a basement room with a drain location, water faucet and the ability to run the electrical for a reasonable amount.

I do not plan on doing anything larger than 5 Gallon for some time. I also do not have a budget of 5k to spend.

So this is why i leaning to a 10 to 15 Gallon eBIAB set up. I can use a 30amp breaker, 5500w element and it will use a lot let space as well as cost. I have the ability for a pulley system but squeezing the bag is a bit of a concern.


Some of my questions and thoughts are:

1. Should i sparge if i go EBIAB? Will it get better efficiency?
2. Will a 10 gallon pot be enough for doing 5G BIAB or should i look at a 15G pot.
3. Ebrewery has a panel for $575 which seems reasonable. Do any of you who do eBIAB have a cost break down for your panel?
4. Overall, i just want to know your successes with BIAB as i really want to get into more brewing but i just cannot pull the trigger without some good advice.

Currently my set up was a 15G Kettle with propane and a Cooler mash tun. It worked but i want to be able to brew in the winter and when temps hit -40F, its not an option to brew outside.

Also, If moving to eBIAB with a pump set up, how many ports should i be looking at on the kettle or overall what would be the best configuration.

Thanks again

This is a picture of that panel from ebrewsupply. It is awesome.

I have a 20 gallon custom spike kettle that was around $450.

There are 4 1.5" TC fittings. One for the element, one for the the pick up, one for the whirlpool and one for the mash circulation. 3 are on the bottom and one is toward the top.

There's also an NPT fitting for the probe on the bottom.

I have the BIAB false bottom that I got from the other ebrewsupply or something like that. There is a post about it. That's about $25 or so. This way my basket doesn't rest on the element.

I have a custom sparge arm from Norcal and I attached a piece of the silicone tubing and the mash circulates awesome. That was around $50.

There is a basket involved here. I have a press plate. Smashing the grains is a non issue standing on a step ladder. I just use gloves and press on the sides. There's also an electric hoist that makes a nice addition.

I have around $500 in fittings, $450 in kettle, $250 in basket and plate, $100 in pump, $550 panel, $100 in the table, $100 in the hoist. I figure this thing cost me around $2000.

I can only use it for large batches. I use a hydra immersion chiller that was around $175 shipped but I use it for my smaller 5 gallon propane setup.

 

[tmendick]

If you're set on electric definitely start with eBIAB. You can decide if you want to spend the money later to add a couple more pots and still use all the same things from the eBIAB setup in a 3v setup.

I got a StrangeBrew Elsinore system, it's a neat toy that runs off RaspberryPi, so you can use a keyboard/mouse or your smartphone to run your brewery. For hardware I have a Chugger Pump and had High Gravity customize a 15G Bayou Classic with a BoilCoil, whirlpool port, and ball valve. All in I'm at about $1,100.

I did use the Avantco induction burner and a SSBrewTech pot which was significantly cheaper and worked really well, but the Gear Acquisition Syndrome took over and made me buy the bigger system, plus I wanted the capability of 10 Gallon batches.

No matter what route you go with for eBIAB, definitely splurge and get a bag from Wilser, I can't recommend that enough.

 

[trav77]

I'm just starting a build on a very similar system to brewprint's. The thread is here if you are interested: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=596834

I've brewed on a 3v keggle system for 10+ years and while it is simple and makes good beer, the ability to brew electric indoors is the big driver for me in going to eBIAB. Also looking forward to precise control for step mashing and the ability to heat strike water without continual attention. I have little kids and brew on weeknights so this is a huge advantage for me over propane... get the system running then mash in whenever I can find a spare moment of sanity.

I went the DIY approach for a simple panel. There's a parts list on the thread for the whole build although if you want to save money you can easily cut down on the hardware (especially going to TC fittings adds a lot of cost). In the end I got a good deal on a SS mesh basket so that will be included in the plan but is not on the list.

Most of the gear is sitting at the Montana border and I'm heading down to pick it up tomorrow. 1 more sleep!

 

[brewprint]

The big downside of my system is the cleanup. Literally everything needs to be taken apart.

I bought the quickclean ballvalves from Brewer's Hardware so I take all 3 of those apart. Essentially I just take everything apart and throw it in the sink and let it soak in oxiclean. Still disassembly, rinsing, and assembly takes some serious time.

Something to consider for the those wanting to go to electric automation with pumps.

Or you could be like some brewers and don't clean your ball valves. Disgusting!

 

[trav77]

The big downside of my system is the cleanup. Literally everything needs to be taken apart.

Yeah that's going to be a downside for me as well with using all TC fittings but I figure it will be a wash compared to lugging 2 keggles and a cooler up and down to the basement from my garage and cleaning them all out.

Or you could be like some brewers and don't clean your ball valves. Disgusting!

Yup! A big reason why I went TC and butterfly valves. I used to use 2 piece ball valves without disassembling very often. Nasty stuff in there once you do take them apart, even if you think they're clean. After that I went to 3-piece but still a pain.

 

[Austinjs0102]

Thanks everyone for the replies! These are really helpful.

The main reason i want to go with an element and panel is just for a bit more control and ability to not have to watch it the entire time. I do not have kids but i have 15 acres of land and number of animals i care for each day so most of my brewdays will be on the weekend.

The reason i would like electrical is due to no close propane exchange and routing a new ling from my 500 Gallon propane tank might cost a bit more.

Also, with the electrical, i have an area in my basement with the beams exposed so i can create a hoist as well as run water and electrical to the spot. It also has an area to drain water as well as a sink.

Brewprint, that is one awesome set up. I am thinking of something similar but maybe a bit cheaper but, realistically i love that set up.

Also, i have heard nothing but amazing reviews on wilserbrewer bags. I will certainly order from them . Right now i need to most likely get the OK to make this purchase but my thoughts are.

I could go with my 10 Gallon for now, install an element, temp probe, in and out for the pump and a false bottom. Purchase the parts for a panel or, depending on cost and time of building one, possibly purchase one completed. I also need to add in the CFGI 30 amp breaker and run the correct wiring to the location. I also will need a table of some sort, sheetrock the wall and install water to the location.

Or, i could switch up the 10 gallon to the 15 gallon and just prepare/future proof a bit. If i get the go ahead, ill make sure i document the whole process. First step is installing water to the location, installing the vent hood and running electrical. That might take me some time.

Thanks again for all the advice!

 

[Austinjs0102]

I'm just starting a build on a very similar system to brewprint's. The thread is here if you are interested: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=596834

I've brewed on a 3v keggle system for 10+ years and while it is simple and makes good beer, the ability to brew electric indoors is the big driver for me in going to eBIAB. Also looking forward to precise control for step mashing and the ability to heat strike water without continual attention. I have little kids and brew on weeknights so this is a huge advantage for me over propane... get the system running then mash in whenever I can find a spare moment of sanity.

I went the DIY approach for a simple panel. There's a parts list on the thread for the whole build although if you want to save money you can easily cut down on the hardware (especially going to TC fittings adds a lot of cost). In the end I got a good deal on a SS mesh basket so that will be included in the plan but is not on the list.

Most of the gear is sitting at the Montana border and I'm heading down to pick it up tomorrow. 1 more sleep!

I am going to probably be following yours fairly closely!

Im putting all the items together now in a list and just going to get a cost idea together. I already have a 10G kettle and was thinking of modding it or even my 15G keg that i have could be altered. Im still working on the best way to approach this but so far, following your thread, i am thinking a very similar approach.

 

[ChocolateMaltyBalls]

There are many ways to brew and, for me and many others I'm sure, figuring out process and equipment is half the fun. There's no right way for everyone.

That said, electric is awesome and I'll never go back to gas. Also using a PID is incredibly useful. Some people like pot watching, I hated it.

 

[brewprint]

Thanks everyone for the replies! These are really helpful.

The main reason i want to go with an element and panel is just for a bit more control and ability to not have to watch it the entire time. I do not have kids but i have 15 acres of land and number of animals i care for each day so most of my brewdays will be on the weekend.

The reason i would like electrical is due to no close propane exchange and routing a new ling from my 500 Gallon propane tank might cost a bit more.

Also, with the electrical, i have an area in my basement with the beams exposed so i can create a hoist as well as run water and electrical to the spot. It also has an area to drain water as well as a sink.

Brewprint, that is one awesome set up. I am thinking of something similar but maybe a bit cheaper but, realistically i love that set up.

Also, i have heard nothing but amazing reviews on wilserbrewer bags. I will certainly order from them . Right now i need to most likely get the OK to make this purchase but my thoughts are.

I could go with my 10 Gallon for now, install an element, temp probe, in and out for the pump and a false bottom. Purchase the parts for a panel or, depending on cost and time of building one, possibly purchase one completed. I also need to add in the CFGI 30 amp breaker and run the correct wiring to the location. I also will need a table of some sort, sheetrock the wall and install water to the location.

Or, i could switch up the 10 gallon to the 15 gallon and just prepare/future proof a bit. If i get the go ahead, ill make sure i document the whole process. First step is installing water to the location, installing the vent hood and running electrical. That might take me some time.

Thanks again for all the advice!

I think that you could spend a little less with a smaller kettle. Maybe figure out how to get around the stainless basket and just use a bag...would save you some cash.

Don't use TC fittings because they are expensive. Don't use the quickclean valves because they rack up cash.

Use 110 electricity. I luckily have a friend who wired my breaker box to 220. I also had to buy a 30 amp breaker which was around $75 as well.

Doing 110 is so much cheaper on so many levels. I'm all about time and I can have 14 gallons of strike water to 49F in 40 minutes. To get 12.5 gallons to boil it takes around 20-30 minutes.

Thanks for the compliment on the setup!

 

[TexasWine]

I think that you could spend a little less with a smaller kettle. Maybe figure out how to get around the stainless basket and just use a bag...would save you some cash.

Don't use TC fittings because they are expensive. Don't use the quickclean valves because they rack up cash.

Use 110 electricity. I luckily have a friend who wired my breaker box to 220. I also had to buy a 30 amp breaker which was around $75 as well.

Doing 110 is so much cheaper on so many levels. I'm all about time and I can have 14 gallons of strike water to 49F in 40 minutes. To get 12.5 gallons to boil it takes around 20-30 minutes.

Thanks for the compliment on the setup!

All excellent advice above from @brewprint

Instead of a basket, get A BIAB false bottom from Brewhardware.com.

TC fittings are only warranted for the cold side of a brewery. No huge benefits to having them in a single vessel BIAB set up except for convenience of removing the element to clean it. But if you're doing it right, a quick wipe down of the element will be all that is required.

I also use 2 piece valves and have taken them apart on multiple occasions. I have found nary a hint of build up in them. The insides are as pristine as when they were new. I think this is a common thing for electric brewing because you don't have the external flame cooking the valve.

And yes, use 120v if you have two outlets that are easily accessed from your brew area. I'm a 120v brewer myself. It's much cheaper, especially when it comes to GFCI protection, and the time to heat from mash to boiling with 2x1500 watts on a standard 5 gallon batch is about 12 minutes longer compared to 4500 watts, if my memory serves me correctly.

 

[jekeane]

I built a Ebrewsupply 3v 30a pid panel with no electrical experience other than general household knowledge. Ryan (the owner) is very responsive and helpful. I had a probe with a bad manufacturing weld that started leaking 6+ months after I purchased the kit and he had a replacement in the mail for free within a day or two.

 

[pretzelb]

Thanks everyone for the replies! These are really helpful.

Here are some random thoughts on the topic from someone who bought a full system from CO Brewing.

• Electric is awesome. If you go electric you will never go back. I love it.
• Brewing indoors is great but can you vent the steam? I brew in my garage near the opening but many times I wish I had a window or a vent. If you want to brew in a cellar you will need to vent.
• As much as I like my system, I think the best option might be a false bottom and a Wilser bag. A bag is SO EASY to clean and maintain. Even if you have to get a custom false bottom I think a bag is much easier. I also think you will avoid re-circ issues with a bag over a system that includes a mash filter. Not to mention squeezing a bag is easier.
• If you are willing to plan it all out then building your own is best. I was overwhelmed so I went with a system that was all inclusive. After many brews I could see what worked best. If you are able to calmly plan out a solution it will be best.
• Cleaning a large single kettle is more challenging than you think. After I upgraded to a 20g kettle I realized that I need a table near my sink. I also realized my sink wasn't nearly big enough or I needed a spray attachment. I also realized I should have more water resistant materials around my sink area.
• Always plan for more than what you think. I went with a 20g kettle and I can't imagine going any smaller. Always go with a kettle size larger than what you think you need.

 

[Jorb]

I built a Ebrewsupply 3v 30a pid panel with no electrical experience other than general household knowledge. Ryan (the owner) is very responsive and helpful. I had a probe with a bad manufacturing weld that started leaking 6+ months after I purchased the kit and he had a replacement in the mail for free within a day or two.

I've had great customer service from them too. I had a 30 amp breaker start tripping at about 6 amps after a few brews and they shipped a replacement with no questions asked.

 

[brewprint]

I built a Ebrewsupply 3v 30a pid panel with no electrical experience other than general household knowledge. Ryan (the owner) is very responsive and helpful. I had a probe with a bad manufacturing weld that started leaking 6+ months after I purchased the kit and he had a replacement in the mail for free within a day or two.

Yeah the customer service is fantastic.

What actually happened to that probe? I'm really hoping that I don't run into an issue on a brew day.

 

[jekeane]

There was a pinhole in the probe so water leaked into the probe and out the back. Just a random manufacturing defect.

 

[DrinknBuddy]

Built this for 4gal batches. I squeeze the bag.

 

[TheBrewBag]

You'll never regret having a larger kettle, but you may regret the smaller one. For full volume mashing you'll need a kettle at least 40% larger than the targeted fermenter volume, so 5 gallon batches require a 9 gallon kettle, 10 gallon = 16. You can max out a 15 gallon kettle doing a 10 gallon batch, so if you're OK with an occasional boil over or needing to top up after removing the bag you can count on having to do that. I brew 9 gallon batches in my 15 to ensure not having to deal with all that.

Regarding efficiency, another brewer and I have tracked 75 brews and both he and I average 78.5%. It's easy for folks to say that efficiency increases or decreases but it's hard to confirm variables and differences in pH and grain crush. So having info from two sources that smooth the results to cover those variables confirms that every brewer using full volume mashing and no sparge can achieve 78.5% average efficiency. Neither of us uses pumps to recirculate and we never stir after dough in. That is possible because of the high water to grain ratio and milling at .020.

I'll disagree that sparging produces higher efficiency overall if you consider the lost wort in both the mash tun and the grain bed. Sparging dilutes the wort whereas full volume mashing and squeezing delivers the same gravity to the boil kettle with only 7 oz or so lost to the grain after squeezing and no dead space loss. The tun contains lost sugars at X volume of water x ??? gravity plus at minimum 15 oz per pound of grain that can not be captured when sparging. And if you set your brewhouse efficiency to 78.5% your cost for grain will go down based on standard recipes that assume 73- 75% efficiency.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

MY redneck eBiaB system is as simple as it gets and can do up to 12 gallon batches.

1 x 20 gallon AL pot =$54 scratch and dent Amazon
2 x 1650 Watt 110V ULWD elements and the nuts/orings to put them in = $60
Two waterproof switch enclosures, 20 amp switches, 6' 12 gauge cords = $60
1 x giant pizza pan with 3" bolts and nuts = $15
Bulkhead valve = $25
Bag with rachetting pulley = $30'ish


Turn both elements on to get to strike temp, turn both off, dough in and insulate...leave for an hour.
Pull bag, turn both elements on to get to a rolling boil, add bitter hops. turn off one element to maintain boil...leave until next hop addition.
Drop in worth chiller, whirfloc, turn off other element, chill wort.

A monkey could do it.

 

[rpolzin25]

I built a Ebrewsupply 3v 30a pid panel with no electrical experience other than general household knowledge. Ryan (the owner) is very responsive and helpful. I had a probe with a bad manufacturing weld that started leaking 6+ months after I purchased the kit and he had a replacement in the mail for free within a day or two.

I tried emailing Ryan twice about a week apart trying see if he could put a custom package together for me as I wanted to use a different pid (the ezboil) and I had a different enclosure and I oddly enough got zero response from him so he pretty much lost my business. I will say I am working on building my own ebiab controller and have started ordering parts via eBay and Amazon and I am at $250 before obtaining the wires I need for wiring everything together. So you can definitely diy for less if your looking to save money. I plan to create a thread with my build once I get the time to actually start putting everything together.

 

[LandofOZ]

I brew 5 gallon batches in a turkey fryer pot 6 gallon I believe on my stovetop. the pot is insulated with a silver car window shade cut and wrped around the pot. I lauter in the bag in a 5 gallon got cooler with 3 gallons of water, heated to 170 then added to the grains in the bag in the cooler and usually yields 160 degrees after sturing a big ruber band keeps my bag held doen over the top so I can put the lid on. I then fheat 2 gallons of water to 170 degress. I use this to rinse (spargre) after llautering for about 15 minutes by taking the bag of grains out of the cooler and into the hot water. this gives me the results of both worlds with a single pot and a single gott cooler and 1 bag. I ad enough water to the worttoI boil 5 gallons and add back any water needed at end of boil. I also squeeze the gaoins after lautering and rinsing. I have a large calander that sits over my cooler and pot to aid in draining the wort from the grains

 

[tzman]

Austinjs0102,

I am just starting BIAB after a yr & 6 extract brews. Just transfered the first one to a keg this afternoon. Like you, I have had a lot of questions. I stumbled upon BIABrewer.info. There's a ton of info on the site and a BIAB specific Excel spreadsheet (BIABacus) that you can play around with, plug a typical recipe into & it will calculate the headspace in your kettle based on what your specific kettle dimensions are. This might help you figure out what size kettle to go with. I've got a 10 gal original version Spike kettle that I'm using outdoors with a Blichmann burner. I'm limited to about a 12# grain bill if I want to get 4.5 gal into the keg. Any OG > 1.060 is probably out of reach. I've communicated with Ben @ Spike about a 15 gal electric, should I continue down the BIAB path, and have also been in contact with Ryan @ ebrewsupply about his panel. Like others who've responded, I'd like to be doing this inside. Good luck!

 

[mwill07]

here's my ebiab system. I used a bottom draining keggle and have a DIY ebrewsupply control box.

my tips:

• if I had to do it over again, I'd probably just buy the control panel from ebrewsupply than DIY. After you factor in the tools to make it (hole saws, step drills, etc), you might not be saving all that much money...and it takes a considerable amount of time to build.
• I'd really consider 120V to mash and propane/NG to boil. If I had to do it over again, it would have been cheaper to have a NG line run to my back patio than 220V (I had one run to my deck anyways for the grill). While I really do appreciate the bottom draining, I'm still not 100% sure if it's worth it.
• if you are concerned about LoDo (which is probably a touchy topic), BIAB may not be compatible. Just something to think about.
• if you are running a pump to recirculate during the mash, install a sight glass. If you start seeing the liquid level in the sight glass dropping, you know you are pulling a vacuum and you will have to throttle back on the pump.
• I'm only getting about 65% efficiency right now. Not sure what I need to do to get higher, but I don't worry about it too much. Grain is cheap.

 

[anchornm]

I have a 2 vessel brew-rig with a RIMS for re circulation to an 11 gallon igloo. It drains constantly to a 15 gallon bayou classic with a Blichmann boil coil. Once the mash is done, I switch from RIMS to boil coil, and take the igloo to the compost pile. I use a homebrew controller (arduino).
When it gets cold, I start brewing 2 1/2 gallon batches in the kitchen.
You may find my INDOOR RIG interesting for small batches. It is an E-BIABasket.
I use a grainfather sparge water urn, an Auber EZ boil controller, a custom made Arborfab basket, another Arborfab hops spider.
I start with 4.25 gallons of water - end up with 2 1/2 gallons in the keg. I always double mill my grains for this rig.
I do full batch mash and boil - in Beersmith my brewhouse efficiency is 77.40, and my mash efficiency is always between 85 and 92.
I step mash with a minimum of 6 steps (with extended periods at the desired character profile - dry / sweet) - usually 90 minutes total.
The Auber EZ boil is like a dream come true. I am considering ditching my homebrew controller on the OUTDOOR RIG, and buying another EZ boil in 220 V (and building a panel to run the pump).

 

[blacklabbrewer]

+1 for the avantco 3500 watt induction burner and no pump. When I first started brewing I bought a 10 gallon cooler mash tun to batch sparge. First, it was a pain to clean the mash tun. After my first stuck sparge it was back to brew in a bag. I've since added a pulley system and purchased a Jaded Hydra wort chiller (totally worth it!!!!).

One comment on squeezing the bag. More wort is only beneficial if you account for it in your system. I found that if I squeezed the crap out of by bag and got "extra" preboil volume, my preboil gravity was correct but my original gravity was low, because beersmith figured I would boil off a higher percentage of wort. I now drain the bag until I get to where beersmith predicted my preboil to be and have no troubles hitting my target gravity.

Best of luck you're going to really enjoy BIAB once you figure out your volumes and efficiency.

 

[NSMikeD]

here's my ebiab system. I used a bottom draining keggle and have a DIY ebrewsupply control box.

my tips:

• if I had to do it over again, I'd probably just buy the control panel from ebrewsupply than DIY. After you factor in the tools to make it (hole saws, step drills, etc), you might not be saving all that much money...and it takes a considerable amount of time to build.
• I'd really consider 120V to mash and propane/NG to boil. If I had to do it over again, it would have been cheaper to have a NG line run to my back patio than 220V (I had one run to my deck anyways for the grill). While I really do appreciate the bottom draining, I'm still not 100% sure if it's worth it.
• if you are concerned about LoDo (which is probably a touchy topic), BIAB may not be compatible. Just something to think about.
• if you are running a pump to recirculate during the mash, install a sight glass. If you start seeing the liquid level in the sight glass dropping, you know you are pulling a vacuum and you will have to throttle back on the pump.
• I'm only getting about 65% efficiency right now. Not sure what I need to do to get higher, but I don't worry about it too much. Grain is cheap.

double crushing grains seems to be a common fix for BIAB efficiency. Nice project, I enjoyed reading your build, including what you learned along the way and why you chose to build int the way you did.

 

[doug293cz]

...

I'll disagree that sparging produces higher efficiency overall if you consider the lost wort in both the mash tun and the grain bed. Sparging dilutes the wort whereas full volume mashing and squeezing delivers the same gravity to the boil kettle with only 7 oz or so lost to the grain after squeezing and no dead space loss. The tun contains lost sugars at X volume of water x ??? gravity plus at minimum 15 oz per pound of grain that can not be captured when sparging. And if you set your brewhouse efficiency to 78.5% your cost for grain will go down based on standard recipes that assume 73- 75% efficiency.

Sorry, but I disagree strongly that full volume mashing with squeezing usually beats sparging for efficiency. It is possible to simulate the lauter efficiency of no-sparge and batch sparge processes with high accuracy. Kai Troester wrote about it here. I have implemented my own mash/lauter simulator (which agrees well with Kai's published data), and I describe the calculations used here.

The chart below shows how lauter efficiency (mash efficiency equals conversion efficiency times lauter efficiency) is affected by the grain weight to pre-boil volume ratio, the apparent grain absorption rate (affected by level of squeezing), and for no-sparge vs. single, equal runnings volume batch (dunk) sparge.



You can see from the chart that in order for a squeezed no-sparge to beat a typical no-squeeze batch sparge (grain absorption of about 0.12 gal/lb), the apparent grain absorption for the squeezed no-sparge must be below 0.06 gal/lb, and even then the no-sparge only beats the no-squeeze sparge for a limited range of high gravity (high grain weight / pre-boil volume) beers. Very few BIAB'ers actually achieve a 0.06 gal/lb absorption rate (0.07 - 0.08 gal/lb are more typical.) Now BIAB'ers can do dunk (batch) sparging if they want to chase high efficiency, and if they squeeze before and after sparging, then a no-sparge process can never beat that efficiency.

You claim that squeezing can reduce apparent total grain absorption to about "7 oz," or 0.055 gal. For a 10 lb grain bill, this would be an apparent absorption rate of 0.0055 gal/lb which is not possible without a mechanical press (not sure it can even be done with a mechanical press.)

A well designed MLT can limit the undrainable (dead) volume to 0.0625 - 0.125 gal. Those volumes do have an effect on lauter efficiency, but it is minor compared to grain absorption. MLT's with large undrainable volumes do have a significant negative impact on efficiency.

You also say: "The tun contains lost sugars at X volume of water x ??? gravity". The proper way to determine the amount of sugar retained in the grain is with a rigorous mass balance calculation, as I describe in the second link above. There is no way to know the volume of water retained in the grain without doing a mass balance (it is definitely NOT strike volume - runnings volume, due to the effect of dissolved sugar volume on the runnings volume.)

Finally, you state: "plus at minimum 15 oz per pound of grain that can not be captured when sparging." I have no idea what you are trying to say here. Care to elaborate?

Brew on

 

[cbier60]

1. Should i sparge if i go EBIAB? Will it get better efficiency?
2. Will a 10 gallon pot be enough for doing 5G BIAB or should i look at a 15G pot.
3. Ebrewery has a panel for $575 which seems reasonable. Do any of you who do eBIAB have a cost break down for your panel?
4. Overall, i just want to know your successes with BIAB as i really want to get into more brewing but i just cannot pull the trigger without some good advice.

Also, If moving to eBIAB with a pump set up, how many ports should i be looking at on the kettle or overall what would be the best configuration.

Thanks again

I'll reiterate/reinforce what several others have already said.

You'll never regret having a larger kettle, but you may regret the smaller one. For full volume mashing you'll need a kettle at least 40% larger than the targeted fermenter volume, so 5 gallon batches require a 9 gallon kettle, 10 gallon = 16.

That (78.5% average efficiency) is possible because of the high water to grain ratio and milling at .020.

I'll disagree that sparging produces higher efficiency overall

1+2. If you're going to BIAB, then do it right (IMO), which is full volume. The uninformed refer to it as no-sparge, but the sparge water volume is in the total water volume for the full mash; there is no need to add water in the end. As TheBrewBag said, the efficiency of this approach is higher than if you mash at a lower water/grist ratio and sparge afterwards. I'm not sure I follow TheBrewBag's math, but I agree with his premise. My recommendation for full volume BIAB is that you need >2X kettle volume to final beer. I think you'll regret if you go for the 10 gal kettle. I have a 20 gal Spike kettle and typically brew 7-10 gallons.

3. Like Wilser recommended, I have the 3500W Avantco induction burner. For 10-12 gallons, I have a 1500W hot rod heatstick from Brewhardware for speeding up transitions. But I certainly understand the desire for the panel control .

I stumbled upon BIABrewer.info. There's a ton of info on the site and a BIAB specific Excel spreadsheet (BIABacus) that you can play around with, plug a typical recipe into & it will calculate the headspace in your kettle based on what your specific kettle dimensions are.

4. I discovered BIABrewer.info 3 years ago and have been BIABing since, after a year of extract brewing. I have just moved to electric and am in the process of getting my indoor brewery up and fully functional. Absolutely no regrets or plans to ever brew 3V.

My new 20G Spike kettle has 2 ports, one output and one for whirlpool. I just added a small 2gal/min 12V pump for recirculation during mash with the return through the lid, similar to what stever1000 documented in this thread.

 

[jrodmfish]

Here are some random thoughts on the topic from someone who bought a full system from CO Brewing.

• As much as I like my system, I think the best option might be a false bottom and a Wilser bag. A bag is SO EASY to clean and maintain. Even if you have to get a custom false bottom I think a bag is much easier. I also think you will avoid re-circ issues with a bag over a system that includes a mash filter. Not to mention squeezing a bag is easier.

Please elaborate on your statement that a bag is "easier" to clean and maintain. What issues have you had cleaning your mash basket?

 

[jrodmfish]

here's my ebiab system. I used a bottom draining keggle and have a DIY ebrewsupply control box.

my tips:

• if I had to do it over again, I'd probably just buy the control panel from ebrewsupply than DIY. After you factor in the tools to make it (hole saws, step drills, etc), you might not be saving all that much money...and it takes a considerable amount of time to build.
• I'd really consider 120V to mash and propane/NG to boil. If I had to do it over again, it would have been cheaper to have a NG line run to my back patio than 220V (I had one run to my deck anyways for the grill). While I really do appreciate the bottom draining, I'm still not 100% sure if it's worth it.
• if you are concerned about LoDo (which is probably a touchy topic), BIAB may not be compatible. Just something to think about.
• if you are running a pump to recirculate during the mash, install a sight glass. If you start seeing the liquid level in the sight glass dropping, you know you are pulling a vacuum and you will have to throttle back on the pump.
• I'm only getting about 65% efficiency right now. Not sure what I need to do to get higher, but I don't worry about it too much. Grain is cheap.

The DIY kit from ebrewsupply does take some time if you've never done anything like it before, but for the savings I'd do it again. I had my panel cutouts done at their shop so there was no extra work there.

 

[pretzelb]

Please elaborate on your statement that a bag is "easier" to clean and maintain. What issues have you had cleaning your mash basket?

When I used a bag I just transferred from the bag to a garbage bag in less than a minute. When the bag was dry I then shook it clean. With a basket I have to scoop the grains out and then use a hose and sponge to clean the basket.

 

[jekeane]

here's my

my tips:

• if I had to do it over again, I'd probably just buy the control panel from ebrewsupply than DIY. After you factor in the tools to make it (hole saws, step drills, etc), you might not be saving all that much money...and it takes a considerable amount of time to build.

• 
  
  To this point I agree in part. If you plan on buying the panel without having it precut ($50) for a $385 total then it likely it may not be worth the $190 savings from the preassembled kit, unless you want to lear how to maintain the unit.
  
  I built my 30a 3 vessel panel in 14 hours or so working in the evenings and I enjoyed the experience.