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mrkelley

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Joined
Oct 20, 2017
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Location
Roanoke
I posted this in the new member thread, but when I found this topic I figured I should post here as well.

This is made from 4" PVC. A 2' section holds about 1 1/3 gallons, leaving plenty of room for headspace, especially after you add the 4" x 2" reducer and a 2" x 3/4" bushing, 3/4" brass nipple and 3/4" ball valve. I drilled a 1 1/8" hole in the plug at the top for a bung plug. That would probably be better as a 1" hole.

The stand is just some 3/4" plywood scraps.

The test batch is in it now. I pulled the trub / yeast this evening. The smell is jsut about perfect. I plan to bottle this weekend, but so far, I think this one is a winner.

Of course, there's no reason you couldn't put several of these together to create a larger fermenter, making it scalable.

SewerOne.jpg
 
It looks interesting, but I have to ask - is it food safe plastic? From what PVC work I've done this pipe is typically used for drainage and I suspect the primer and glue are not considered food safe. Hope it all turns out well anyways!
 
It looks interesting, but I have to ask - is it food safe plastic? From what PVC work I've done this pipe is typically used for drainage and I suspect the primer and glue are not considered food safe. Hope it all turns out well anyways!

It's the same stuff you use for indoor supply plumbing. In other words, it's the same material your drinking water flows through.

The only difference between drain and supply plastic is the pipe diameter.
 
I can't recommend this. There are plenty of nooks and crannies (crooks and nannies??) at each fitting in which nasties could hide. I would also caution with respect to the solvent glue and prep solution. They are full of volatile chemicals.
 
I can't recommend this. There are plenty of nooks and crannies (crooks and nannies??) at each fitting in which nasties could hide. I would also caution with respect to the solvent glue and prep solution. They are full of volatile chemicals.



And the inside may not be smooth from the mold
 
False.
PVC pipe is used for drain and venting.
CPVC is used for potable water.

False---ish
PVC can be used for potable water, drains and venting.
CPVC can be used for hot water (max 200), where regular PVC should not be.
regular PVC is perfectly fine for cold potable water under.

But I still wouldn't use either to ferment beer in.
 
You guys have to keep in mind that the alcohol is more likely to dissolve nasty stuff from the pvc than tap water is. I also wouldn't recommend this stuff.
 
Beer isn't water as we all know, it is much more acidic so I'd be weary of fermenting in PVC. I hope it turns out well, Cheers
 
The two greatest dangers from poly vinyl chloride are 1) in its manufacture (working with the resin) and 2) gasses in a fire (house fire, dumpster fire, etc). It is generally recognized as safe for cold water, even after joined and glued. However, as others have said, the crevices created in gluing sections together may harbor nasties, and beer isn't water. You may end up pitching it after 20 gallons from persistent infections, or it may kill you after 60,000 gallons of tasty beer. I recommend 'Better Bottle' for fermenting in plastic, but that's personal preference.
 
I'd be more inclined to use a Homer or Lowes bucket before I used PVC.

Kelley, I'm gathering that you're trying to get inexpensive "conical features" and think it's beneficial to drop yeast once fermentation is complete. This is not true. Tons of folks make the SAME quality of beer fermenting in buckets (ON the yeast cake) for a month as others do in conical fermenters. Honestly, I very seldom use the dump valve on my conical fermenters unless I'm planning to dump another batch of wort on the yeast cake (and need to get rid of some).
 
Yeah man I'm with the consensus on this one too. Don't get me wrong, +1 on being innovative! It's definitely a project I can appreciate; but wouldn't use. Run down to the LHBS and buy a bucket, 2 if you want to remove off the cake. Cheap, efficient, food grade.
Cheers and good luck!
 
I'd be more inclined to use a Homer or Lowes bucket before I used PVC.

Kelley, I'm gathering that you're trying to get inexpensive "conical features" and think it's beneficial to drop yeast once fermentation is complete. This is not true. Tons of folks make the SAME quality of beer fermenting in buckets (ON the yeast cake) for a month as others do in conical fermenters. Honestly, I very seldom use the dump valve on my conical fermenters unless I'm planning to dump another batch of wort on the yeast cake (and need to get rid of some).

I even read a couple of times that it is beneficial to keep it for extended times on the cake, as the yeast gets time to clean up und also some yeasts start releasing specific phenols that are enhancing the flavour.

From my limited personal experience, I can only say that it is true. I kept a stout over a month on the yeast cake and it turned out even a bit too clean for my liking.
 
I even read a couple of times that it is beneficial to keep it for extended times on the cake, as the yeast gets time to clean up und also some yeasts start releasing specific phenols that are enhancing the flavour.

From my limited personal experience, I can only say that it is true. I kept a stout over a month on the yeast cake and it turned out even a bit too clean for my liking.

I'm in the same camp...leave it on the cake. I know this is steering OT, but that "get it off the cake and into a secondary asap" myth is still floating around. It IS an issue for commercial brewers, where pressure and temps in the bottoms of those conicals can cause autolysis. But for homebrewers using carboys and buckets, not an issue. Even John Palmer walked that one back a few years ago. There are even reports of homebrewers leaving beer in primaries for a year with no adverse effects.
 
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