American IPA The New West Coast IPA

[spersichilli]

This actually just took gold at the NHC Tampa regional in American IPA (two years in a row I've won both main IPA categories there). Did it for competitions and wanted the judges to shut up about malt character so leaned maltier for the grain bill but got great new school hop expression on this one. Slight knock from the judges due to a bit of an "oniony" character which is from the mosaic, the mosaic cryo I have doesn't have that so might drop the T90's entirely and rework the ratios. So hard to find good mosaic nowadays. The strata CGX is fantastic and perfect for new school west coast, and the citra incognito dip hop gives this tongue coating hop saturation which I love. Going to slightly lower the OG to get it right at 7 and swap the C20 for C10 to lighten up the malt a touch since I think the national judges are probably ahead of the Florida judges as far as knowledge of the style. Swapping the lupomax for cryo, and also going to work in some Abstrax citra and mosaic into the DH since I ordered some of those.

1.065 og, 1.009 FG, 88 IBUs, 300:50 SO4:Cl (6 gal into the fermenter), 7.4% abv
70% pils
20% vienna
5% C20
5% dextrose

mashed at 149, 5.2 ph with lactic

1oz Columbus at 60 (approx 42 ibu)
1.5 oz Columbus at 15 (approx 31 ibu)
4oz mosaic at WP 30 mins at 165 (approx 13 ibu) - dropped to 5.0 with phosphoric here
20g citra incognito dip hop (probably a couple ibus lol)

fermented at 66 with US-05

Dry hopped with 4/4/4/2/2 Crosby Citra '23, Hop Alliance Mosaic '24, Strata CGX '24, Citra Lupomax '23, Mosaic Lupomax '23 for 36 hours at high 40's agitating 3x. Hit it with biofine in the keg since I had run out (normally add it in with the dry hop)

 

[Bassman2003]

Thanks for sharing all the details! I run most of my mashes in Kunze range around pH 5.6 for most styles with a knockout down to 5.1-5.3 Can you talk about your choice for pH 5.2 all the way to the WP?

 

[spersichilli]

Thanks for sharing all the details! I run most of my mashes in Kunze range around pH 5.6 for most styles with a knockout down to 5.1-5.3 Can you talk about your choice for pH 5.2 all the way to the WP?

I just do 5.2 mash pH to make it easier to adjust down at KO. No specific reason. 5.6 seems a bit high, I've seen people usually target 5.4

 

[Dgallo]

Brewing a true modern west tomorrow

Grainbill
100% - Pilsner malt
Targeted OG: 1.070
Targeted FG: 1.012
Targeted ABV: 7.6%

Yeast
US05

Hotside hops
Mosaic & Nelson
IBU: 65

Dryhop
Strata, Mosiac, Nelson

Next Beer On Tap!
Murda Was The Case! - West Coast IPA - 7.6% ABV - 72 IBUS. This modern west coast ipa is hoped hotside with Strata and mosaic t90 and dryhoped heavily with Strata t90, Freestyle Nelson, Mosiac t90, and Mosaic Omni and Quantum from @Abstrax . Beer is bright, crisp, and loaded with flavor!

https://www.instagram.com/bantam_brews?igsh=MW9pazE3cjB4d3F4Yw==&utm_source=qr

 

[ihavenonickname]

Next Beer On Tap!
Murda Was The Case! - West Coast IPA - 7.6% ABV - 72 IBUS. This modern west coast ipa is hoped hotside with Strata and mosaic t90 and dryhoped heavily with Strata t90, Freestyle Nelson, Mosiac t90, and Mosaic Omni and Quantum from @Abstrax . Beer is bright, crisp, and loaded with flavor!

https://www.instagram.com/bantam_brews?igsh=MW9pazE3cjB4d3F4Yw==&utm_source=qrView attachment 873158

Somewhere mixed in with all the kid junk and a cat there is a gorgeous beer in there! Sounds delicious, well done! lol looks like my house too!

Do you like how you did the terp addition with the bio fine and the dry hop?

 

[elproducto]

Next Beer On Tap!
Murda Was The Case! - West Coast IPA - 7.6% ABV - 72 IBUS. This modern west coast ipa is hoped hotside with Strata and mosaic t90 and dryhoped heavily with Strata t90, Freestyle Nelson, Mosiac t90, and Mosaic Omni and Quantum from @Abstrax . Beer is bright, crisp, and loaded with flavor!

https://www.instagram.com/bantam_brews?igsh=MW9pazE3cjB4d3F4Yw==&utm_source=qrView attachment 873158

Is that hop combo super dank? I've been working in a recipe to use my new Strata and Nelson, but was worried it might be too dank.

 

[Fergal]

Is that hop combo super dank? I've been working in a recipe to use my new Strata and Nelson, but was worried it might be too dank.

Nelson & Strata is one of the best hop combos I've ever had in a commercial beer. It was right up my alley.

 

[Dgallo]

Starting to hit a stride now.

Wc ipa at 7.6% with Nelson, Mosaic, and Strata

 

[RCope]

Your beer really makes that glass shine. And it makes me want to order some Nelson. Cheers!

 

[tdf]

Put in the keg yesterday. Gotta love wlp002. 93% Pilsner 7% light Munich.

Mosaic + Eclipse with a little citra and chinook in the dry hop at 7.5g/l

 

[Dgallo]

Your beer really makes that glass shine. And it makes me want to order some Nelson. Cheers!

It’s a sweet glass! And absolutely. Nelson lends its self great to west coast or mor boldly bitter IPAs as it plays well with that dankness. But at the same time it lends an awesome grape/sauvignon blanc note

 

[synonymous18]

Next Beer On Tap!
Murda Was The Case! - West Coast IPA - 7.6% ABV - 72 IBUS. This modern west coast ipa is hoped hotside with Strata and mosaic t90 and dryhoped heavily with Strata t90, Freestyle Nelson, Mosiac t90, and Mosaic Omni and Quantum from @Abstrax . Beer is bright, crisp, and loaded with flavor!

https://www.instagram.com/bantam_brews?igsh=MW9pazE3cjB4d3F4Yw==&utm_source=qrView attachment 873158

Gorgeous. What was your hot side hop schedule?

 

[mrcastellino]

Starting to hit a stride now.

Wc ipa at 7.6% with Nelson, Mosaic, and Strata View attachment 874121

So whats the final verdict with the Omni? I just got the mosaic one as well and was wondering what your thoughts were on its use. Thanks!

 

[Dgallo]

Gorgeous. What was your hot side hop schedule?

 

[Dgallo]

So whats the final verdict with the Omni? I just got the mosaic one as well and was wondering what your thoughts were on its use. Thanks!

I may have over fined this beer but it seem lighter in flavor than a typical beer. I supplanted 4 oz of my dryhop for 4ml of Omni/Brite in the serving keg at racking.

The beer is good, aroma is solid, but I do truly think the flavor is bolder when using hops. Again I replaced hops with this product. Could certainly be a different outcome if you still use the same amount of hops and then add it to boost the keg.

 

[mrcastellino]

Thanks for confirming. I suspected it was more complementary vs. a direct substitute. Will report back once i put it to the test. Cheers.

 

[bwible]

I’m an old timer who recently started fermenting in Corny kegs for these beers to be able to do closed transfers. Want to ask you guys for advice.

I took a 5 gallon keg and cut about 1.5 inches off the dip tube. I’m not bothered by doing that because I use floating dip tubes on all my kegs. So if I want to use that again for dispense I can just put the floating dip tube back on it. The floating dip tubes I have are the ones with the gray plastic ball. I didn’t want to use a floating dip tube for fermentation because I was afraid it would clog. I ferment 3 gallon batches in this. 3.5 gallons goes in so hopefully I get 3 gallons out.

I also have 3 and 5 gallon Speidels with valves. And a 3 gallon keg I can also shorten a dip tube and use for oxygen free “secondary” transfers.

So whats your usual procedure? The last one I did I fermented in the primary and watched with the tilt til it was 8-10 points from done and added dry hop and let it finish and sit for 4 days. Then I cold crashed it in the same keg for a week. Then I transferred to the serving keg. I did not use the secondary keg this time or biofine or gelatin or anything.

I’m using bry-97, which I like the character of for these beers.

For my next one, I’m thinking a double ipa. I have fresh Cascade, Centennial, Citra, Mosaic, Simcoe, and Azacca on hand. I haven’t used Azacca before, most of the things I see say its mild, not aggressive lke a Citra.

Thanks for advice.

Heres a little sample of the one I just did, 7 days in the keg. I’d like it to be clearer.

 

[Bassman2003]

Clarity is something that is a challenge on its own with dry hopping. It is interesting that hops drop very clear in the boil kettle but do not seem to drop clear after dry hopping. Maybe it is the lower pH? I would say a flocculent yeast would help. I have not used BRY-97. I have made a few with WLP-001 after a decent break and have to say it is a bit powdery. I am going to Omega's West coast yeast as I seem to remember it dropped pretty bright the last time I used it.

I have adopted a "dry hop keg" approach. So I ferment out under pressure, lower the temps, transfer the beer into the dry hop keg with hop bong, let the temps rise back to the low 60's drop the hops in, let them sit for a while then lower that temp down to lager temps and transfer into the serving keg. All closed and at pressure to keep the carbonation. This method allows me to harvest the yeast from the fermenter into a brink without hops being involved and use the hop bong to drop the hops and keep oxygen out.

BTW, I also have all of the kegs hooked up for fermentation gas purging during the ferment. So I sanitize everything on brew day & keep it closed and hooked up so it is just hooking up hoses and transferring from then on.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Clarity is something that is a challenge on its own with dry hopping. It is interesting that hops drop very clear in the boil kettle but do not seem to drop clear after dry hopping. Maybe it is the lower pH? I would say a flocculent yeast would help. I have not used BRY-97. I have made a few with WLP-001 after a decent break and have to say it is a bit powdery. I am going to Omega's West coast yeast as I seem to remember it dropped pretty bright the last time I used it.

I have adopted a "dry hop keg" approach. So I ferment out under pressure, lower the temps, transfer the beer into the dry hop keg with hop bong, let the temps rise back to the low 60's drop the hops in, let them sit for a while then lower that temp down to lager temps and transfer into the serving keg. All closed and at pressure to keep the carbonation. This method allows me to harvest the yeast from the fermenter into a brink without hops being involved and use the hop bong to drop the hops and keep oxygen out.

BTW, I also have all of the kegs hooked up for fermentation gas purging during the ferment. So I sanitize everything on brew day & keep it closed and hooked up so it is just hooking up hoses and transferring from then on.

Pretty much how my setup is too.

 

[bwible]

I’d say its a dry yeast pretty much the same as 1056/chico with just about the same character, versatile, and cheaper. I’ve been a liquid yeast guy for 35 years. I’m only trying dry yeasts recently and I’d swear by this one.

 

[Dgallo]

I’m an old timer who recently started fermenting in Corny kegs for these beers to be able to do closed transfers. Want to ask you guys for advice.

I took a 5 gallon keg and cut about 1.5 inches off the dip tube. I’m not bothered by doing that because I use floating dip tubes on all my kegs. So if I want to use that again for dispense I can just put the floating dip tube back on it. The floating dip tubes I have are the ones with the gray plastic ball. I didn’t want to use a floating dip tube for fermentation because I was afraid it would clog. I ferment 3 gallon batches in this. 3.5 gallons goes in so hopefully I get 3 gallons out.

I also have 3 and 5 gallon Speidels with valves. And a 3 gallon keg I can also shorten a dip tube and use for oxygen free “secondary” transfers.

So whats your usual procedure? The last one I did I fermented in the primary and watched with the tilt til it was 8-10 points from done and added dry hop and let it finish and sit for 4 days. Then I cold crashed it in the same keg for a week. Then I transferred to the serving keg. I did not use the secondary keg this time or biofine or gelatin or anything.

I’m using bry-97, which I like the character of for these beers.

For my next one, I’m thinking a double ipa. I have fresh Cascade, Centennial, Citra, Mosaic, Simcoe, and Azacca on hand. I haven’t used Azacca before, most of the things I see say its mild, not aggressive lke a Citra.

Thanks for advice.

Heres a little sample of the one I just did, 7 days in the keg. I’d like it to be clearer.

View attachment 874643

So I’ll admit I did not read anyone else’s response to you so I may be just mimicking what they said but if I was brewing with your current equipment (fermenting in a keg) I would do the following;
~~~~~~~<
*I’d Install a floating diptube in 3 kegs (if you want to do only 2, then one keg will be both your dryhop keg and serving keg). One for fermenting, one for dryhoping and one for serving (in a two keg system, dryhop and serving will be the same.*

1) ferment in one of your kegs at about 4.75 - 4.8 gallons. You will added a product called “ferm cap” which will prevent your krausen and foam from being an issue.

2) I would then conned the co2 post of the fermenting keg to the co2 post of the dryhoping keg, that is filliped to the brim with a sanitizing solution. I would then have the dryhop kegs liquid post connected to a hose that is open and placed in a brew pale of at least 6 gallons (7 is better)

3) fermentation will purge that keg, so when all of the liquid is gone, I’d weigh out my dryhop, and open the dryhoping keg and quickly dump in the hops and close it back up as fast as possible. I’d keep everything hooked up this way until fermentation was over.

4) I’d then disconnect all lines and cold crash the beer in the fermentation keg to drip the yeast out. After 48 hours under 50*f, I would then rack the beer from the fermenting keg to the dryhoping keg using co2 from my tang to push and then gas off the dryhoping keg by connecting the co2 post of the dryhop keg to an open hose in the bucket that has the sanitizer in it.

5) once all the beer is in the dryhoping keg, I would keep it below 50*f for 48hrs. During that 48hrs I would invert the keg 4-6 times (let it sit upright 8 hours, then invert it for the next 8, and then repeat this every 8 hours or so you flip it over about 6 times during dryhoping.

6)I would then crash the dryhoping keg at serving temps for the next 48 hours (if your doing a 2 keg system where this keg is also your serving keg, you would then add beiofine through the prv and then connect the gas to carb). It will now be time to transfer to the serving keg

7)make sure your serving keg is properly purged. Once that’s done, measure out your biofine in a syringe (3 ml per gallon is a good rate). Connect the this keg to gas for a second to give it positive pressure. Then unscrew the prv. Once unscrewed grab the biofine syringe, when the gas slows out of the price, shot the biofine through the prv opening and rescrew it in.

8) next close transfer to the serving keg by connecting the dryhoping kegs co2 post to the co2 tank, the liquid post to the purged serving kegs liquid post, and then the seving kegs co2 post to the hose that is open ended and placed in the pal with sanitizer.

9) once fully transferred, I’d agitate the keg, inverting it a few times to make sure the biofine was evenly dispersed. I’d then set the serving keg to your serving temperature and proper carbonation psi and your ready to go

 

[bwible]

So I’ll admit I did not read anyone else’s response to you so I may be just mimicking what they said but if I was brewing with your current equipment (fermenting in a keg) I would do the following;
~~~~~~~<
*I’d Install a floating diptube in 3 kegs (if you want to do only 2, then one keg will be both your dryhop keg and serving keg). One for fermenting, one for dryhoping and one for serving (in a two keg system, dryhop and serving will be the same.*

1) ferment in one of your kegs at about 4.75 - 4.8 gallons. You will added a product called “ferm cap” which will prevent your krausen and foam from being an issue.

2) I would then conned the co2 post of the fermenting keg to the co2 post of the dryhoping keg, that is filliped to the brim with a sanitizing solution. I would then have the dryhop kegs liquid post connected to a hose that is open and placed in a brew pale of at least 6 gallons (7 is better)

3) fermentation will purge that keg, so when all of the liquid is gone, I’d weigh out my dryhop, and open the dryhoping keg and quickly dump in the hops and close it back up as fast as possible. I’d keep everything hooked up this way until fermentation was over.

4) I’d then disconnect all lines and cold crash the beer in the fermentation keg to drip the yeast out. After 48 hours under 50*f, I would then rack the beer from the fermenting keg to the dryhoping keg using co2 from my tang to push and then gas off the dryhoping keg by connecting the co2 post of the dryhop keg to an open hose in the bucket that has the sanitizer in it.

5) once all the beer is in the dryhoping keg, I would keep it below 50*f for 48hrs. During that 48hrs I would invert the keg 4-6 times (let it sit upright 8 hours, then invert it for the next 8, and then repeat this every 8 hours or so you flip it over about 6 times during dryhoping.

6)I would then crash the dryhoping keg at serving temps for the next 48 hours (if your doing a 2 keg system where this keg is also your serving keg, you would then add beiofine through the prv and then connect the gas to carb). It will now be time to transfer to the serving keg

7)make sure your serving keg is properly purged. Once that’s done, measure out your biofine in a syringe (3 ml per gallon is a good rate). Connect the this keg to gas for a second to give it positive pressure. Then unscrew the prv. Once unscrewed grab the biofine syringe, when the gas slows out of the price, shot the biofine through the prv opening and rescrew it in.

8) next close transfer to the serving keg by connecting the dryhoping kegs co2 post to the co2 tank, the liquid post to the purged serving kegs liquid post, and then the seving kegs co2 post to the hose that is open ended and placed in the pal with sanitizer.

9) once fully transferred, I’d agitate the keg, inverting it a few times to make sure the biofine was evenly dispersed. I’d then set the serving keg to your serving temperature and proper carbonation psi and your ready to go

Thank you. I’ve seen pictures of your IPAs and thats what I want to be making.

I’m doing 3 gallon batches so I’ll only be using the 5 as a fermenter. I have 3 gallon kegs too. I did one little batch so far and did the out post to out post transfer one time after purging a keg with star san. I have to say it was easier than I thought.

I’m mostly asking about what order you do things, whether you dry hop cold, etc, and what things help clear the beer vs creating hazy. Sounds like some biofine is on my shopping list.

 

[Bassman2003]

So I’ll admit I did not read anyone else’s response to you so I may be just mimicking what they said but if I was brewing with your current equipment (fermenting in a keg) I would do the following;
~~~~~~~<
*I’d Install a floating diptube in 3 kegs (if you want to do only 2, then one keg will be both your dryhop keg and serving keg). One for fermenting, one for dryhoping and one for serving (in a two keg system, dryhop and serving will be the same.*

1) ferment in one of your kegs at about 4.75 - 4.8 gallons. You will added a product called “ferm cap” which will prevent your krausen and foam from being an issue.

2) I would then conned the co2 post of the fermenting keg to the co2 post of the dryhoping keg, that is filliped to the brim with a sanitizing solution. I would then have the dryhop kegs liquid post connected to a hose that is open and placed in a brew pale of at least 6 gallons (7 is better)

3) fermentation will purge that keg, so when all of the liquid is gone, I’d weigh out my dryhop, and open the dryhoping keg and quickly dump in the hops and close it back up as fast as possible. I’d keep everything hooked up this way until fermentation was over.

4) I’d then disconnect all lines and cold crash the beer in the fermentation keg to drip the yeast out. After 48 hours under 50*f, I would then rack the beer from the fermenting keg to the dryhoping keg using co2 from my tang to push and then gas off the dryhoping keg by connecting the co2 post of the dryhop keg to an open hose in the bucket that has the sanitizer in it.

5) once all the beer is in the dryhoping keg, I would keep it below 50*f for 48hrs. During that 48hrs I would invert the keg 4-6 times (let it sit upright 8 hours, then invert it for the next 8, and then repeat this every 8 hours or so you flip it over about 6 times during dryhoping.

6)I would then crash the dryhoping keg at serving temps for the next 48 hours (if your doing a 2 keg system where this keg is also your serving keg, you would then add beiofine through the prv and then connect the gas to carb). It will now be time to transfer to the serving keg

7)make sure your serving keg is properly purged. Once that’s done, measure out your biofine in a syringe (3 ml per gallon is a good rate). Connect the this keg to gas for a second to give it positive pressure. Then unscrew the prv. Once unscrewed grab the biofine syringe, when the gas slows out of the price, shot the biofine through the prv opening and rescrew it in.

8) next close transfer to the serving keg by connecting the dryhoping kegs co2 post to the co2 tank, the liquid post to the purged serving kegs liquid post, and then the seving kegs co2 post to the hose that is open ended and placed in the pal with sanitizer.

9) once fully transferred, I’d agitate the keg, inverting it a few times to make sure the biofine was evenly dispersed. I’d then set the serving keg to your serving temperature and proper carbonation psi and your ready to go

Would it work to add the biofine to the dry hop keg? That way everything would settle and be left behind in the dry hop keg and nothing but clear beer would go to the serving keg.

 

[Dgallo]

Would it work to add the biofine to the dry hop keg? That way everything would settle and be left behind in the dry hop keg and nothing but clear beer would go to the serving keg.

you can certainly do that but you have to wait to add it until your target dryhop time is over. The draw back is that it difficult to get it harmoniously mixed in without disturbing the hop bed. I would theorize that if you agitate it too vigorously where the hops get unsettled, the SiO2 (biofine) would attach directly to the spent hops and drop out quickly without being able to pull more of the fine material out.

If you do it the way I suggest, using a serving keg with a floating diptube. You’ll have clear beer in about 2 days or so and by the time you kick the keg all the trub will be compacted so you’ll only have a pint or two at the bottom of the keg that would be wasted

 

[Bassman2003]

That sounds solid.

 

[elproducto]

I've been thinking of brewing the Sorta Mostly Dead recipe from CB&B as I've heard a few people talk about it in this thread.

The only issue is, the lone whirlpool addition is Citra Incognito which I do not have. How would I switch this to T90's? Just do a standard whirlpool addition and adjust the bittering IBU's?

I would link the recipe but it's behind a paywall.

Here's what I came up with for an "inspired recipe"

Sorta Almost Mostly Dead

 

[Dgallo]

I've been thinking of brewing the Sorta Mostly Dead recipe from CB&B as I've heard a few people talk about it in this thread.

The only issue is, the lone whirlpool addition is Citra Incognito which I do not have. How would I switch this to T90's? Just do a standard whirlpool addition and adjust the bittering IBU's?

I would link the recipe but it's behind a paywall.

Here's what I came up with for an "inspired recipe"

Sorta Almost Mostly Dead

1 hb sized packet of spectrum (I think 25g?) is equivalent to 4 oz of t90. That should help you

 

[elproducto]

1 hb sized packet of spectrum (I think 25g?) is equivalent to 4 oz of t90. That should help you

Thanks, I actually found that after searching. A pack of Citra Incognito here in Canada is $25!

 

[anteater8]

Citra/Nelson Modern West Coast IPA Review

Short story: I followed OP's recipe pretty closely and the beer came out fantastic!

Long story:

10.75 lb Pils
4.25 lb 2 row

0.4 oz Warrior 60 min (16 IBU)
2 oz Citra 15 min (37 IBU)
2 oz Nelson whirlpool (5 IBU)
2 oz Citra whirlpool (5 IBU)
2 oz Citra dry hop
2 oz Citra lupomax dry hop
4 oz Nelson dry hop

Yeast nutrient 10 min
Whirlfloc 10 min

Imperial Flagship

Mash
5 gal, 160° strike
4 g gypsum, 1.5 g CaCl
2.8 ml lactic acid
Mash temp = 148°
pH = 5.40

Sparge
3.5 gal
3 g gypsum, 1 g CaCl
168° water

Pre-boil vol = 7 gal
Post-boil vol = 6 gal
Carboy vol = 5.5 gal

O.G. = 1.065 (70% efficiency)

Chilled to 69° and stuck in fridge set to 65°

Ramped from 65 to 70 over the next 5 days

Day 7: soft crash

Day 10: dry hop off yeast in separate purged vessel, flipped gently upside down 3x over next two days

day 12: cold crash

day 15: keg w/ 4 tsp biofine

F.G. = 1.007
ABV = 7.6%

Tasting notes:
Nice yellow color, pretty clear with just the slightest haze. Aroma is strong mango, papaya, lychee, light berry & fresh pine needle. Flavor is strong guava nectar, mango, slight pine tips and it finishes on a sweet saturated candied orange/lemon hop flavor. Balance is pretty much spot on - the finish is strong on the sweet saturated citrusy hop fruitiness, but in a crisp and slightly resinous way to even things out. I might bump the 65 IBUs up by another 5-10 next time for my own personal preference. Body comes across more as medium despite being 1.007, but it is still a crisp beer and not the least bit watery or thin.

Overall, I am thrilled with this beer. It will probably serve as the basis for most of my American IPA's moving forward unless I specifically want something old school (e.g. Celebration). I'm excited to experiment more with Citra, Strata, Motueka, Simcoe combinations... maybe even some Centennial, Chinook, Riwaka, or Rakau.

Cheers!

 

[Indian_villager]

OP mentioned BRY97, anybody else having success with that yeast?