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The New Brew Shed aka The Lady Cave

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Honestly, I too would not use sheetrock.

I would use rigid insulation and clad the interior with FRP. Fiber Reinforced Panels aka Marlite. This stuff is typically used in kitchens for an easy to clean surface. It is also similar to bathroom shower panels.

An expensive option for the whole shed but THE best option for the wet wall.

To the OP, I am not a fan of drywall in any sort of utility area as it is so easily dinged, dented, or soaked and it has less than a 40# load capacity. Look at the thin fibrous cement panels (normally Hardie Panel). With no interior dimension exceeding 10' there would be no seams except the corners and one horizontal or two vertical per wall. The corners can be either caulked or covered in 1/2" quarter round. If you can accurately measure, including checking for square, you are looking at 2-3 cuts per wall.
 
Yaknow, kitchen/bathroom sheetrock would probably be best due to the amount of moisture that would be in there, but alternately for ease of cleanup and even for functionality, that dry erase wallpaper might be a nice addition.

You can write your recipe up there, and jot down your brewing notes as you go, label your additions just above them, keep track of some brews, etc. Hmmm... I may be getting an idea, and at ~$1-2/square on Amazon it may be workable for a kinda brew area.
 
I'm thinking about keeping your shed warm/cool, mostly because I'm insulating and weatherizing my 100-year old house. I am incredibly jealous of your ability to get everything right from the start. I guess I'll add that there are so many ways to do insulating and weatherizing wrong and there are a lot of misconceptions that have made their way into contractor and DIYer practice. Good luck!
 
Honestly, I too would not use sheetrock.

I would use rigid insulation and clad the interior with FRP. Fiber Reinforced Panels aka Marlite. This stuff is typically used in kitchens for an easy to clean surface. It is also similar to bathroom shower panels.
I thought about this, but I felt like it may be overkill. I'll have to look into it.
Why drywall - why not another product that you can hang, easily clean, and forget about/move on from?

Such as? Or are you on board with the clad?
 
I thought about this, but I felt like it may be overkill. I'll have to look into it.


Such as? Or are you on board with the clad?


EXACTLY what I was thinking.(I haven't used it awhile - aged into an older mind - and couldn't remember the name of it) :drunk:

It's durable, washable, you don't ever have to paint it, comes in textures?...
Find the cheapest under board you can find i.e.drywall, plywood, lattice strips,,,anything to keep the marlite from buckling in between the studs. When you get your LC finished, yamo build me a MC jist like yers....only purtier.....
...and I WILL be using marlite.
 
Recently designed a small brewery for my fathers company, they built it from structurally insulated panels with FRP on the interior. Tiled floors with drains and stainless steel tables. Everything can be sprayed down. This is much smaller scale but, it would be worth it.

Maybe @Hello doesn't brew like a barbarian and get **** all over everything though :)
 
Such as? Or are you on board with the clad?

There really are lots of options out there. Other than the two mentioned so far (one by me) there are also the whiteboard coated MDF or masonite though neither are stronger for hanging things than drywall. There is PVC beadboard if you like the cottage look (though only the pvc-coated panelling is affordable).

There is also slatwall. This stuff is a little more expensive but for one wall that will have an evolving or storage-specific purpose it solves multiple problems and looks pretty nice. The fixture, hooks, shelves, etc, that work with it are not inexpensive new but come up used on Craigslist all the time. Most big box stores stock one or two panel types but ordering it even in small quantities has always been like $1-2 more per panel.
 
I just found this thread........ I've been contemplating doing pretty much the same thing.... A large shed with one end for garden tool storage, the other for brewing, with fermentation chambers storage for bottles or kegs, and a hang out / bar.... and hops growing over the top.......... 16x20


H.W.
 
I think she's still deciding her options on how to trim the lady cave.

I am thinking brazilian. ;)

This close to what you were thinking?



6162a991e83c829ce4b98ee4ce834593.jpg
 

If I ever build my "compound" I have plans for something similar but built on a trailer. Drag it into the "shop" in winter and hook it up to the welder outlet. Drag it out to the patio all other seasons. Take it to the track when we have LeMon's races only 35 miles away.

Mine would actually have one long wall that hinged at the top so it could be a roof over the seating area. I would employ those cool magnetic insect screens used for garage to keep out the mossies.
 
Awesome, keep the details coming! I would like to do something similar. Probably many years from now. Oh who am I kidding, I'm going to be a public school teacher, I would have to hit the lottery :p
 
go with this
http://t.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836/

over the Whiteboard MDF

http://t.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-3...fty-White-Tile-Board-Panel-346-428/202085003/

I just did my whole garage in the Thrifty Panel MDF, and it is NOT stable
I am in Michigan, all the panels came from a warm Home Depot, went into my
cold (detached ) garage, and I installed them just like dry wall ....1200 screws later

The Thrifty panel has absorbed water out of the air, and is warping or waving
what ever you would call it.....The walls are warped looking.

I am hoping that as the summer gets real hot & dries out the garage
that eventually the panels will lay flat on the wall, like dry wall would.

The plastic FRP panels are more stable - they will not warp , as they will not absorb water like the MDF does.
But the FRP are TWICE the cost of the Thrifty panel, which was twice the cost of dry wall, if I had dry walled, I would have to paint as well, it saved a step.

my 2 cents
Steve
 
Teach wood shop and make it a class project!

I am not sure there are any schools that still have "manual arts" in the curriculum. I came from a medium sized town/small city and they discontinued them the year I graduated...1990.

Now there is one potential...figure out a way to make it a prop in a school play and get the tech's to build it.
 
I am not sure there are any schools that still have "manual arts" in the curriculum. I came from a medium sized town/small city and they discontinued them the year I graduated...1990.

Now there is one potential...figure out a way to make it a prop in a school play and get the tech's to build it.

WHAT !!!! What do you mean? Shop class? Here in Montana it's standard. I can't imagine it not being a standard part of every person's education.
 
I plan to do exactly as you did in a few years when we relocated. Cant wait to see what you do with it!

I sure wish there were a reality show on one of those channels about real homebewers, their toys, sheds and practices.
 
go with this
http://t.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836/

over the Whiteboard MDF

http://t.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-3...fty-White-Tile-Board-Panel-346-428/202085003/

I just did my whole garage in the Thrifty Panel MDF, and it is NOT stable
I am in Michigan, all the panels came from a warm Home Depot, went into my
cold (detached ) garage, and I installed them just like dry wall ....1200 screws later

The Thrifty panel has absorbed water out of the air, and is warping or waving
what ever you would call it.....The walls are warped looking.

I am hoping that as the summer gets real hot & dries out the garage
that eventually the panels will lay flat on the wall, like dry wall would.

The plastic FRP panels are more stable - they will not warp , as they will not absorb water like the MDF does.
But the FRP are TWICE the cost of the Thrifty panel, which was twice the cost of dry wall, if I had dry walled, I would have to paint as well, it saved a step.

my 2 cents
Steve

Thank you for the links. This is what helps a lot. The issue though is budget. Those FRP wall boards are 3x the price of mold resistant sheetrock. I don't know why I shouldn't use it though (@DNKDUKE). I would be using semi gloss paint, easy enough to wipe down. This is all electric so I'm not near an open flame. I'd like to keep the finish reasonable. Between the shed, electric and brewery stuff, I'm in deep. I'm not sure why sheetrock and gloss paint won't work like it seems to in my kitchen. Also, don't I need to have some kind of backing first then install the wallboard or is wallboard, even the thrifty one linked above in place of the drywall and goes right over the insulation?

I appreciate the help and if I have to spend $30-$45 on a 4x8 piece of wallboard, then so be it. But it seems excessive. Well, and I didn't intend to have white walls. :)
 
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