The leak free MLT bulkhead

[iaefebs]

I am converting a 60 qt Igloo Ice Cube to a MLT. The one with the wheels. I decided I don't want to have the valve at the existing hole and want to drill through the cooler and attach the valve out the front of the cooler. I am looking at a design that was posted here and elsewhere.
http://www.whalesbrewclub.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=61:the-leak-free-weldless-bulkhead&catid=34:diy-workbench&Itemid=84

My question is has anyone tried this? Piece #6 the PVC pipe that fits between the walls of the cooler seems to be a critical piece. I would think the length would have to be shorter than the distance between the inner and outer wall otherwise you are clamping to a tube and not the cooler.

 

[Ace_Club]

I am converting a 60 qt Igloo Ice Cube to a MLT. The one with the wheels. I decided I don't want to have the valve at the existing hole and want to drill through the cooler and attach the valve out the front of the cooler. I am looking at a design that was posted here and elsewhere.
http://www.whalesbrewclub.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=61:the-leak-free-weldless-bulkhead&catid=34:diy-workbench&Itemid=84

My question is has anyone tried this? Piece #6 the PVC pipe that fits between the walls of the cooler seems to be a critical piece. I would think the length would have to be shorter than the distance between the inner and outer wall otherwise you are clamping to a tube and not the cooler.

I did this on my 70 qt. Coleman Xtreme MLT. It works perfectly. However, you are incorrect in thinking that the PVC needs to be shorter than the wall thickness. For this design you actually want to be clamping down on the tube. The whole purpose of the tube is to give you something solid to clamp to on the outside of the cooler so that you aren't compressing the walls of the cooler.

Good luck with your build, and let us know if you have any other questions.

 

[Palefire]

I used this design, but instead of using the PVC I dug some of the insulation out around the hole I drilled, then filled the space in with Bondo. Once that stuff hardens it's never going to compress! Either way, making that space between the cooler walls as uncompressable as possible is the key. That way you can tighten down as much as you need on the o-ring and you never have to worry about the walls giving out or the o-ring popping out. 30 batches or so on my cooler and it's still working great.

Here's the original thread: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/no-leak-mlt-bulkhead-design-87197/