The cure for your short hose troubles

[legaleagle]

Yea, I have the "bend" style dip tube. I too am thinking that the bend would prevent them from being pushed out. But then again I noticed that the inserts have some flex to them and I suppose it is possible that somehow with enough pressure/agitation they might work their way out the tube. But theories and possibilities are one thing; real experience is another.

 

[Bobby_M]

If you're shaking the keg to carb it faster, there's absolutely no reason to feed the gas into the bev out post.

 

[legaleagle]

I learned the "gas into the out post" method a long time ago when I first started force carbing. I never questioned it because it worked. But if, as you suggest, I will get the same quick forced carb results simply by filling the headspace and shaking, then that would be the way to go (and eliminate the extra step of changing the QD on my gas line). I will use your method then and eliminate this issue altogether.

 

[Bobby_M]

If you didn't shake and let the keg just sit there, there should be a small advantage to bubbling the CO2 up through the column because it adds a SMALL amount of extra gas to beer surface area. However, the bubbles are so large that it's minimal.

The next step is one of those stainless diffuser stones where you make a billion tiny bubbles. It's kind of a hassle in my opinion.

If you just pressurize the keg and shake the hell out of it, you're essentially turning the headspace into a million bubbles. It's a strongman's version of the diffusion stone.

 

[legaleagle]

I am sold on trying the headspace shake method for no other reason than it eliminates an extra step in changing out QDs (which means one less step standing atween me and me beer). Anything that gets me to where I want to be with less trouble or expense I am all for.

 

[pjj2ba]

You can also put the inserts in AFTER carbing. I just did that for the Belgian Strong I just put on tap. I carbed it up naturally and it was foaming too much, so I vented it, took the gas in fitting off, popped in two sanitized inserts, put the fitting back on. Now I've got a nice smooth pour at 17 psi (8 ft line)

 

[gs430]

I just use the gas in, lay the corny on its side, and rock it w/ about 40 psi. You can roll it so the gas-in is on the bottom and it bubbles through it. The larger surface area gets more CO2 into solution. Just shut the gas off while it's still hissing so no beer flows into the gas line.

 

[Shooter]

It has been a while since I read this whole thread. Is there any rough guideline for how many inserts at different levels of pressure? I suppose it would all depend on hose length too. I've been going with one with most of my beers. All taps are on five foot lines with 12 psi serving pressure. For low carbed beers I'm serving at about 5 psi and not worrying about an insert. I have a wheat beer on deck and am going to be up around 20 psi on that one. I'm thinking I'll need at least two inserts for that keg.

 

[ThatGuyRyan]

It has been a while since I read this whole thread. Is there any rough guideline for how many inserts at different levels of pressure? I suppose it would all depend on hose length too. I've been going with one with most of my beers. All taps are on five foot lines with 12 psi serving pressure. For low carbed beers I'm serving at about 5 psi and not worrying about an insert. I have a wheat beer on deck and am going to be up around 20 psi on that one. I'm thinking I'll need at least two inserts for that keg.

For normal beers I use 2 at 13-15 psi. But when I go higher I use 3. Also on two of my kegs I believe they both that the more race track or square lids vs. the egg/oval lids. The dip tubes in the square lid ones are wider for my kegs. The inserts just slide down without touching the dip tube walls so I use 3-4 inserts in those.

 

[greenbirds]

You can also put the inserts in AFTER carbing. I just did that for the Belgian Strong I just put on tap. I carbed it up naturally and it was foaming too much, so I vented it, took the gas in fitting off, popped in two sanitized inserts, put the fitting back on. Now I've got a nice smooth pour at 17 psi (8 ft line)

This has actually become my standard procedure. When I don't crash cool prior to kegging, I get some yeast sludge on the bottom of the keg by the time it's carbed up. If the mixer sticks are already in place, they get clogged by the sediment. So I dispense a pint or two to draw the sludge out, then pop the mixer sticks in there, and reconnect.

 

[Eisendrath]

OK, just bought and installed these in my kegerator. Corneys were 40°F, 10psi, ~6 feet of hose, and pouring very fast but getting only about 1" of head when poured 1" away from galss and ~45° inclination. Not bad, but I figured I'd try these out because I will periodically take a keg to a bonfire in a bucket of ice with a party tap. Got them delivered today, sanitized them, installed one in each dip tube. Brought corneys back to 10psi. Now they pour really really slow and I get about 2" of foam. Didn't expect the foam increase. Anyone else get this?

 

[RichBenn]

OK, just bought and installed these in my kegerator. Corneys were 40°F, 10psi, ~6 feet of hose, and pouring very fast but getting only about 1" of head when poured 1" away from galss and ~45° inclination. Not bad, but I figured I'd try these out because I will periodically take a keg to a bonfire in a bucket of ice with a party tap. Got them delivered today, sanitized them, installed one in each dip tube. Brought corneys back to 10psi. Now they pour really really slow and I get about 2" of foam. Didn't expect the foam increase. Anyone else get this?

According to some of the "line balancing" instructions, you can get foam from too much resistance to too little resistance. This device is for too little resistance, AFAIK. It sound like you were already balanced, so it's not surprising it got worse.

 

[Ricand]

OK, I broke down and ordered 30 of these from MMC. I know everyone was questioning the food safety of these, but I didn't know they were specifically labeled poisonous.

When I got the invoice from MMC, it said "Warning! This product contains chemicals known to be cancerous". YIKES, you guys are putting these in your beer? I guess I'd rather live with a little foam than die a horrible death from cancer. Anyone want to buy them from me? I paid $38.68, but make me an offer. The food grade tubing restriction in the dip tube is looking better.

 

[samc]

OK, I broke down and ordered 30 of these from MMC. I know everyone was questioning the food safety of these, but I didn't know they were specifically labeled poisonous.

When I got the invoice from MMC, it said "Warning! This product contains chemicals known to be cancerous". YIKES, you guys are putting these in your beer? I guess I'd rather live with a little foam than die a horrible death from cancer. Anyone want to buy them from me? I paid $38.68, but make me an offer. The food grade tubing restriction in the dip tube is looking better.

What's the chemical? What beer line are you using, as that may have similar warnings? Tygon has DEHP in it's B-44-3 which is food grade, so it's kind of difficult to avoid products that get those warnings. Not advocating the use or non use of any product, you just need to do some research and then make up your mind.

 

[Shooter]

You just need to do some research and then make up your mind.

Boy, the cancer issue sure has been coming up a lot lately on this forum. I think the point above is the real key here.

 

[greenbirds]

They are made of polypropylene. Polypropylene is used in tons of food containers. The Coke you drank today has a polypropylene cap, and the pH is far lower than that of beer (extreme pH ranges tend to increase leaching of chemicals/materials). I would not worry.

Here's a link. http://www.virtualweberbullet.com/plastics.html

 

[RichBenn]

They are made of polypropylene. Polypropylene is used in tons of food containers. The Coke you drank today has a polypropylene cap, and the pH is far lower than that of beer (extreme pH ranges tend to increase leaching of chemicals/materials). I would not worry.

Here's a link. http://www.virtualweberbullet.com/plastics.html

This topic always comes and goes for every HDPE or PET container we use for brewing. But your link basically says not to use non-food grade material!

The difference, AFAIK, is between food grade and non-food grade. Food grade(FDA) has (supposedly) followed all the rules about how and from what machines, dyes, chemicals(like release agents) it was manufactured from/with; non-food grade is not. The non-food grade "might" be just as good or then again not. Like what the extruder had on it before, was it cleaned, were recycled materials used(that contained chemicals), etc. You just don't know with non-food grade, for certain.

There is a different, more expensive restrictor:
http://www.chicompany.net/insta-balance-foam-preventer-859.html

Haven't used, but they look like stainless.

Like a friend used to say, you pays your money and you takes your chances....

 

[FullDraw]

I'd like to commend the OP on this one. When the idea of this first came about, there was another discussion regarding restricting the diptube ID. I went down that path with the supplies in hand. I have tried a few combinations over the past year and have a very well balanced system.

I just happened to be ordering from Mcmaster, and decided to go apples to apples on this one. For me, it's not close, the epoxy mixer inserts are easier, and work as good if not better. I tossed 2 into a lager that was having foam issues (even on my setup), and the issue was gone, the pour was controlled, slightly slower, and the foam was gone. I see these being around for awhile.

So if you're unsure whether to get them or not, order some O-rings for your keg, and add 2 to your cart. Give them a try.

 

[BigdogMark]

I've been using one of these in my kegs since my second keg of brew. The first keg was a nightmare of line balancing experiments that just never worked. My brewbud found these in a post and we ordered them up.

I use one in the diptube with an 18" 3/16 line to a party tap, on four kegs in my fridge. The pressure is set to 12-13 psi and has worked well for all my beers. The pour is smooth with minimal foaming. I even sometimes think I don't get enough head, but that is another discussion. I'm sure that is a recipe problem.

I occasionally creep the pressure up to 14-15 psi, but the blondes tend to get too bubbly and over-carbonated for my taste. I know folks advocate the use of these to allow multiple styles of beer on the same serving pressure, but I have found that if you leave any beer at a higher pressure it will take on that carb level regardless of the restrictor. Just something to think about...

 

[pjj2ba]

I occasionally creep the pressure up to 14-15 psi, but the blondes tend to get too bubbly and over-carbonated for my taste. I know folks advocate the use of these to allow multiple styles of beer on the same serving pressure, but I have found that if you leave any beer at a higher pressure it will take on that carb level regardless of the restrictor. Just something to think about...

That is why a bought an add-on regulator for my regulator. Now I can have two different pressures off a single tank. Of course then I also had to run a second gas line into my fridge.

 

[greenbirds]

This topic always comes and goes for every HDPE or PET container we use for brewing. But your link basically says not to use non-food grade material!

The difference, AFAIK, is between food grade and non-food grade. Food grade(FDA) has (supposedly) followed all the rules about how and from what machines, dyes, chemicals(like release agents) it was manufactured from/with; non-food grade is not. The non-food grade "might" be just as good or then again not. Like what the extruder had on it before, was it cleaned, were recycled materials used(that contained chemicals), etc. You just don't know with non-food grade, for certain.

There is a different, more expensive restrictor:
http://www.chicompany.net/insta-balance-foam-preventer-859.html

Haven't used, but they look like stainless.

Like a friend used to say, you pays your money and you takes your chances....

My bad, I only read what I wanted to read on that link, which was rather irresponsible of me. I apologize.

There are lots of "green living," "family safety" etc. sites out there that claim plastic (polypropylene, HDPE, what have you) is the work of the devil and going to give you cancer, and there's also plenty of scientific stuff showing the opposite. I guess you just have to make an informed decision, which, granted, is hard to do when you don't know how they're producing these mixing sticks.

 

[Zacharomyces]

Got these little guys in yesterday. Put two of them in an APA with five feet of line that was foaming like a banshee. Great pour now!

 

[avaserfi]

If anyone cares, I contacted the manufacturer directly about these mixing sticks to see what they said about safety. The outer cage (the clear plastic part) is polypropylene, the actual part we are using is made from delrin in a non-food safe environment. They do not make a reasonable food safe alternative.

 

[Shooter]

If anyone cares, I contacted the manufacturer directly about these mixing sticks to see what they said about safety. The outer cage (the clear plastic part) is polypropylene, the actual part we are using is made from delrin in a non-food safe environment. They do not make a reasonable food safe alternative.

I wonder if they can't call it food safe because of how it is manufactured in a "non-food safe" manner? I believe delrin can be food safe in many applications.

 

[Ricand]

Looks like Delrin is approved by the FDA... Wiki article..

The Food and Drug Administration has approved Delrin for use in the food industry. Delrin was used by Mattel from 1968 to 1972 to produce the low-friction wheel bearings found on redline Hot Wheels.

So it just isn't manufactured in a food safe environment. I think a good soaking in non-chlorine cleaner should be ok for us.

It has a really low coefficient of friction which is why it's being used in the mixing tip application. It is also really susceptible to oxidation in the presence of chlorine even at low levels like in city water.

 

[Synovia]

Bought a bunch of these. They're now in all my kegs.


Only issue: its a PITA when I want to transfer between kegs.

 

[verotik]

Just wanted to say, i ordered 6 of these for my 2 kegs, put 2 in each keg, just ordered 6 for "just in case". Just put them in and pulled a pint...absolutely perfect. It is slow, but man what a difference, i was getting 1/2 a pint of foam because of short 5' lines on my kegconnection setup, and this solved it. Very cheap and awesome advice. Thanks again!

 

[bscuderi]

Anybody know if these work fine in a 3 gallon keg? Wondering cause I also don't want to lower my keg pressure or lengthen my lines from 5 ft! Also is this something I can find at home depot or lowes or do I have to order online?

 

[ThatGuyRyan]

Anybody know if these work fine in a 3 gallon keg? Wondering cause I also don't want to lower my keg pressure or lengthen my lines from 5 ft! Also is this something I can find at home depot or lowes or do I have to order online?

yes you can use them on 3 gal kegs also I use just 1-2 inserts vs 2-3 for 5 gallon kegs. And no you cant buy them at home depot

 

[bscuderi]

yes you can use them on 3 gal kegs also I use just 1-2 inserts vs 2-3 for 5 gallon kegs. And no you cant buy them at home depot

Sweet thanks I suppose I'll just put in an online order