Temp control on conical /unitank

[Ridenour64]

I’ve been doing a lot of research into conical and unitank fermenters. I’m pretty set on the SS brewtech 7 gallon unitank. My question is regarding the FTS cooling system. Is the FTS worth the cost or would I be better off buying an inkbird thermostat off amazon and a cheap pump?

Are you guys using submersible pumps, or does anyone double their kettle pump for this purpose? Open to other ideas as well. I do have a spare fridge, but I would prefer to actually store finished product in there and the cooler idea seems pretty simple.

Does anyone let their fridge run at normal operation to keep beer (or whatever) in the fridge area, then store a cooling solution in the freezer (instead of the cooler idea) and run the thermostat/ pump off of that.

Sorry if this has been asked, I’m sure it has. I did search quick but couldn’t find anything quite the same. Thanks!

 

[NeoBrew]

I have the 7 gallon unitank. I repurposed my former chest freezer/fermentation chamber for a glycol cooler. I bought a 5gallon aluminum pot to use as a heat exchanger and storage tank. I also repurposed my arduino based DIY temp controller.

I didn’t think the SS temp control unit was worth the price. I use a cheap submersible pump from harbor freight.

The system works, but is pretty inefficient. Even when I keep the glycol at 32f, I generally can’t get the fermenter below about 40-42 depending on ambient temps. I used to like to crash my carboys down to 32 to clear them up.

This works for me for now, but I see it as an interim step to either buying a fridge to put the unitank in or buying a glycol cooling system.

 

[augiedoggy]

The fts system uses a fairly inexpensive stc1000 variant temp controller and and a small dc pond pump.. you have many many less expensive options that will work just as well. As far as the chiller, If your budget or diy oriented there are many options from making a chiller from an old window ac unit (easy to do actually) to buying an aquarium or beer line chiller. I bought my micromatic 1/3hp chiller and pump at an auction for $220.. my conical chiller I use I got for free. the deals are out there if you keep your eyes open.

You can even by the same chiller SS sells only from the manufacturer ands it comes with a big pump so you can use that with a pvc manifold for multiple conicals like a pro setup would use and its cheaper even with the pump.

as an alternative that I like better than the coil setup I have on the ss brewtech conical I have here I use one of these jackets and its much easier to keep clean and more sanitary.

http://www.gotta-brew.com/categories/cooling-jacket.html

I went one step further and use blue discharge hose from the home depot wrapped around 2 of my other conicals and that works well too.

 

[kevin58]

The fts system uses a fairly inexpensive stc1000 variant temp controller and and a small dc pond pump.. you have many many less expensive options that will work just as well. As far as the chiller, If your budget or diy oriented there are many options from making a chiller from an old window ac unit (easy to do actually) to buying an aquarium or beer line chiller. I bought my micromatic 1/3hp chiller and pump at an auction for $220.. my conical chiller I use I got for free. the deals are out there if you keep your eyes open.

You can even by the same chiller SS sells only from the manufacturer ands it comes with a big pump so you can use that with a pvc manifold for multiple conicals like a pro setup would use and its cheaper even with the pump.

as an alternative that I like better than the coil setup I have on the ss brewtech conical I have here I use one of these jackets and its much easier to keep clean and more sanitary.

http://www.gotta-brew.com/categories/cooling-jacket.html

I went one step further and use blue discharge hose from the home depot wrapped around 2 of my other conicals and that works well too.

I really like the looks of that Cool Zone Jacket. I might have to buy one or two of those.

 

[Ridenour64]

Thanks for the responses. I’ve decided not to get the FTS. I’ve watched videos on the air conditioning units. Something I may consider in the future but I want to get my feet wet with the unitank first. Right now I’m considering options for a cooler based cooling system, or using my spare fridge. Does the unitank come with a second lid that doesn’t have a cooling coil welded to it?

That jacket is interesting. This is the first time I’ve seen anything like that. It wraps around the outside and pumps cooling water around from the outside?

 

[NeoBrew]

It does not come with a second lid. You would need to buy that separately.

 

[augiedoggy]

yes the jacket works more like a jacketed fermenter in a brewery would, it also makes insulating the outside less important.
I use one of these and then have use the blue hose like the guy in this video used for 2 of my other conicals and I just leave them wrapped with foil bubblewrap around the ouside of everything. I Clean them in place manually but can add quick disconnects to the coolant hoses like I did at the brewery. I just never bothered since I havent had the need to ever move them.
I use silinao heater strips wrapped around below the jacket for heating.. its worked weell for me for over 4 years now controlling all four conicals with one chiller and pump using 24v solenoid valves to decide which gets coolant when.

 

[tll77]

@augiedoggy - this is brilliant!
I currently have a stainless coil in my uni and would like to try this. Do you find there is a good thermal transfer between the vinyl and the stainless? Do you need to keep the glycol colder than if using an internal coil?

 

[augiedoggy]

@augiedoggy - this is brilliant!
I currently have a stainless coil in my uni and would like to try this. Do you find there is a good thermal transfer between the vinyl and the stainless? Do you need to keep the glycol colder than if using an internal coil?

when I tested it on my empty conicals I had frost on the inside wall of my conical I could scrape off with my fingernail...I have some conicals with the coils (plastic where the wrap wont work) as well as an ss brewtech with fts and I MUCH prefer using the conicals with the wrap.

I did not post that video but stumbling onto it was one of the best things I did for my homebrewing workflow.

 

[tll77]

Awesome! thanks
hopefully I can also get frost in mine.

 

[Ridenour64]

Hey guys, instead of starting a new thread I thought it might be good to ask here. My unitank came in. Regarding cleaning the carb stone, I know most people say to boil it, but the one that comes from SS is actually welded to the ball valve. I wouldn’t want to boil that whole assembly would I? Just soak the whole thing in star San?

 

[Vale71]

You can boil it without an issue, just remove the blue plastic handle and you're good to go. Once the handle is removed what's left is either stainless or teflon and is safe to boil even in an autoclave.

 

[Ridenour64]

Sounds good. Thanks for the fast reply.

 

[NeoBrew]

I've been running mine for 20 minutes in an Instant Pot with the blue handle on. It has survived so far. I've run it about 5 times.

The instant pot doesn't quite get up to pressure cooker or autoclave temps, but I figure it's a little better than just boiling.

 

[nick sekerak]

Looking at the video, i was thinking maybe a cheap way to heat you conical is wrapping heat tape around it. HEAT TAPE LINK- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FCFNSM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

then if you plug in your heat tape and chilling jacket pump into a two way temp controller you should be set. Anyone try something like this yet?

 

[NeoBrew]

I have the internal coil on mine for cooling. I use a cheap reptile heater chord wrapped around the base as my heating element. It has worked really well for me. The heater is pretty low power, it can only raise a few degrees above ambient, but I've never needed more.

 

[Blazinlow86]

Only mentioning this as I don't think anyone pointed it out. With the ss version of the unitank your kinda stuck with a glycol setup if you want to be able to use "unitank" part as I don't think a aquarium chiller will get the temp low enough to be able to carb fully under the 15psi working pressure. If you don't want to deal with the extra costs and equipment to do glycol the standard bme conical would be a better choice with a aquarium chiller or even better would be the spike in a freezer without a coil. cheers

 

[Blazinlow86]

Actually after looking at the ss site it appears the coil is mounted in the lid so you can still remove it and use a freezer but unfortunately your still stuck buying it as you can't choose the options you don't need. Cheers

 

[Ridenour64]

My basement stays 68-70 year round so I don’t need any type of heat source, cooling only. From what I’ve read, I should be able to hit low 40’s with a cooler of ice, and that should be adequate for carbing?


Also, has anyone transferred the wort at the end of the boil, to the unitank, and cooled with the chilling coil? I know it’s a lot less feet of coil, but I was thinking of running tap water through for a few minutes at a slow pressure to allow the water a little more time in the coil, get it to a reasonable temp, and then using the cooler to bring it down the rest of the way. This should also be beneficial for sanitizing the ports as well in case anything made it by the cleaning and sanitizing steps.

 

[Blazinlow86]

My basement stays 68-70 year round so I don’t need any type of heat source, cooling only. From what I’ve read, I should be able to hit low 40’s with a cooler of ice, and that should be adequate for carbing?


Also, has anyone transferred the wort at the end of the boil, to the unitank, and cooled with the chilling coil? I know it’s a lot less feet of coil, but I was thinking of running tap water through for a few minutes at a slow pressure to allow the water a little more time in the coil, get it to a reasonable temp, and then using the cooler to bring it down the rest of the way. This should also be beneficial for sanitizing the ports as well in case anything made it by the cleaning and sanitizing steps.

You could cool it that way but I would imagine it will take a VERY long time and if you do try it make sure the conical is not sealed at all or you will likely crush it like a pop can. Im guessing that using the cooler with ice method will work but I would imagine your gonna alot of ice. It takes me 3-4 days in the low 30s to clear, crash and carb 18g batches. I imagine your need at least 10 bags of ice and possibly alot more. Im seeing a freezer or diy glycol setup in your future. Cheers

 

[augiedoggy]

My basement stays 68-70 year round so I don’t need any type of heat source, cooling only. From what I’ve read, I should be able to hit low 40’s with a cooler of ice, and that should be adequate for carbing?


Also, has anyone transferred the wort at the end of the boil, to the unitank, and cooled with the chilling coil? I know it’s a lot less feet of coil, but I was thinking of running tap water through for a few minutes at a slow pressure to allow the water a little more time in the coil, get it to a reasonable temp, and then using the cooler to bring it down the rest of the way. This should also be beneficial for sanitizing the ports as well in case anything made it by the cleaning and sanitizing steps.

Its still beneficial to have heat for raising temps for a dicetial rest

 

[Blazinlow86]

Its still beneficial to have heat for raising temps for a dicetial rest

Good point. Simple heat mat if your using the chilling coil or a light bulb in a paint can if you're using a fridge/freezer is all you need. Cheers

 

[Ridenour64]

Augie, you were right. I initially held my fermentation at 60* after 3/4 days I stopped cooling and expected my unitank to raise to ambient (68*). It only raised roughly 1* per day and never got above 65 - took several days to get there. I do need a heating solution.

As far as the cooling, my pond pump setup is holding my unitank at 45* currently and it’s doing it pretty efficiently. I’m wondering if I could efficiently go to 40? It currently does not have the neoprene on either, I forgot to put it on and after the beer was in it was too late.

Is 45 an efficient cold crash? If so, how long do you recommend holding here?

 

[Ridenour64]

Here’s the end result. Didn’t clear as I had hoped but still tastes good regardless. I made the American pale ale from palmers how to brew. What to brew next?

 

[augiedoggy]

Augie, you were right. I initially held my fermentation at 60* after 3/4 days I stopped cooling and expected my unitank to raise to ambient (68*). It only raised roughly 1* per day and never got above 65 - took several days to get there. I do need a heating solution.

As far as the cooling, my pond pump setup is holding my unitank at 45* currently and it’s doing it pretty efficiently. I’m wondering if I could efficiently go to 40? It currently does not have the neoprene on either, I forgot to put it on and after the beer was in it was too late.

Is 45 an efficient cold crash? If so, how long do you recommend holding here?

at the brewery we use gutter heat tape or heat cable wrapped around the outside of the conicals for heat. I have also used the lower power silicone heat strips which work well for the smaller home brewing conicals.