Tell me about your HERMS-- I've got a ton of questions!

[LooyvilleLarry]

The way that a PID controller should do this. While it can't say "put out 175v", It can say "stay on for the next 400 ms, then shut off for 600ms. In one sec, repeat"

That is how you get a duty cycle.

 

[Hokus]

Ok I am taking the beginnning steps into trying to set something up in my BK. I bought a 5500 watt uld element for 17 dollars at home depot this afternoon and figured out a nut that fits on it so it looks like I will be able to drill a 1 3/4 inch hole and stick it in there.

Heres my next question. These elements only have 2 connections on them. Doesnt 220 have 4 wires? 2 110 legs, ground and neutral? How does that get wired up.

My dad is more electronics savey then me, and is going to help me put in a 30amp gfi circuit in, and I plan on purchasing a PID, 40amp ssd, and thermocouple from auberins.com this week.

Anyone have any tips/suggestions on this?

 

[LooyvilleLarry]

A stove connection has those, but you will only need the 220v for the element. I would suggest using a separate 120v circuit for your electronics. Not saying it would, but it could shorten the lifespan of those rapidly switching SSR & PID elements.

I;d make sure that you ground that to the kettle. I am using a circuit breaker box "lug" for that.

My first full test of the system will be tomorrow, and pics and post will follow.

 

[The Pol]

I get what you are saying about duty cycle... if you have a 6000W element on a 50% duty cycle, you are effectively getting 3000W from it in terms of heat.

 

[stevehaun]

I initially built my system to do 15 gallon batches. I set it up with 2 X 4500 watt elements. I have acquired a bigger boil kettle and mash tun but kept my electric power the same. I now do 30 gallon batches. Today I did a 35 gallon batch and that really pushed the limits of my system. I had to run the boil kettle on 90% power after I brought the wort to a boil. For comparison, with 15 gallon batches, I ran the boil kettle at 65% power.

 

[Hokus]

A stove connection has those, but you will only need the 220v for the element. I would suggest using a separate 120v circuit for your electronics. Not saying it would, but it could shorten the lifespan of those rapidly switching SSR & PID elements.

I;d make sure that you ground that to the kettle. I am using a circuit breaker box "lug" for that.

My first full test of the system will be tomorrow, and pics and post will follow.

Are you saying that only the 110v legs go to the element? Im not sure how that works. Let us know how your set up works and some pics might help us all out.:rockin:

 

[kappclark]

May I rewind the tape ?

POL - How is the 1500W element installed in the HLT/cooler ? What fittings, holes drilled etc ?

It seems like such an easy setup ...

Also - if you boil with propane, you still need to be outside, so no indoor brewing.

Electric novice here ..

 

[The Pol]

I brew indoors with propane, with ventilation. Been doing it for years.