Teach me about using pump(s)

[BrewingCanuck]

Been brewing for many years using a simple set up of heat water drain into mash tun lift onto counter drain into boiler lift onto counter lately all that lifting has gotten to me and I would like to use a pump to do the liquid transfer.
My question is how do you do that with the mash tun without getting it stuck? just crack the valve, as usual, can you turn down the pump? as you can tell I know nothing so any and all information would be appreacated.

 

[eric19312]

You turn down the pump with a ball valve on the "out" side of the pump. Most homebrew pumps are magnetic drive and are not self priming. You always want to restrict flow on the "out" side of these pumps, never on the "in" side.

So if pumping from the mash tun to the boil kettle you want the valve on the mash tun wide open, but either a valve on the "out" side of the pump just barely open to slow the flow. For this purpose it doesn't really matter if that valve is mounted on the kettle or on the pump itself. I end up putting valves on every kettle port and on every pump "out" side and they all get used.

 

[Golddiggie]

Besides what eric posted, I'd suggest finding a way to 'mount' the pump. Initially I used a tool box that I cut a hole into for the pump head to go out through. Made it easier to cart around and such. It also helps to have an easy way to turn it on/off without pulling the plug from the wall. Initially I made a switch box. But since getting back into brewing I started using these to turn things on/off (far easier):
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WX2NBWRMark the remotes and parts that plug into power so that they match up and it makes things easy. I'm using one on the pump for the bucket blaster I have (for keg cleaning). I have a few more that I was using before I went with the control panel for electric brewing.

As with most things home brewing, there are at least a handful of different ways to do the same thing. But, valves after a pump is one sure fire way to control the flow rate through it.

Once you get a pump added, you open up yourself to additional options for brewing. Including whirlpooling (post boil) and different chillers (plate and CFC). Yes, some whirlpool by manually moving the wort. IMO, a pump does it far easier and with more consistency than that.

 

[superiorsat]

I have built 4 electric control panels now and have not put pump switches in my panels because I like the remote control for the pumps better than having to reach for the panel to turn them on and off ( it also greatly simplifies electric panel build ) . I don't remember what remote control I have but it came off amazon and you can put up to 4 wireless plugs on it. I have pump1 and pump 2 plus a fan to move the steam around so it doesn't condensate above my kettle. Love the remote setup. I would also recommend mounting the pump to a immobile location( AKA Brew stand) or in a tool box that protects the pump. The very first Chugger pump I got I concrete screwed it to a 7"x14"x3.5" landscape block which I liked until I got hung up on a hose ( maybe 3rd brew with it ) and pulled it off my second shelf of my brew stand at the time. Bent up the housing and snapped off the fan guard which took some work to get things straightened back out and use stainless steel wire to re attach the fan guard. Was pretty upset I thought I ruined my new pump but it is now just a back up after years of service but still works like new after the repairs.
Edit- after looking at that second picture I remember now I had to screw the bearing back on to the back fan guard for the motor to spin properly. Hopefully my mistake helps you or some one out.

 

[Golddiggie]

I didn't make the control panel I'm using. Got it from ebrewsupply. It's the latest version they have produced (as of last year when I bought it) which has the spot for my SCL pump included. I almost wish I had gone with the LCD version (still might change over to that one).

I've found that having everything on the panel makes things far easier on me. I no longer need to track a remote control for a pump on brew day. With the panel mounted to the stand, it's within easy reach. Maybe if I had the panel several steps away from the stand, I'd feel differently. I leave everything connected to the stand at this point. Which makes getting going on brew day easier.

Something else I found out (the hard way). Make sure your remote for the switches is where nothing will go on top of it. I had one use up it's battery due to having something on it, pressing the button. The part that went to the wall was unplugged, so nothing was running during that time. Just used up the battery. Luckily I have plenty of those batteries on hand (I use them for other things).

 

[superiorsat]

Yeah my panels ( I run 2 panels at the same time so If something catastrophic we to happen I can limp through my brew day with one, had to swap out a 40 Amp SSR on one a couple brew days back and it took about a half hour ) are right there so I could just flip a switch if there was one there. I tend to watch a lot of movies from my favorite brewery chair and drink beers. I might kick on the HLT pump just to de-stratify the water temp from my chair or kick the fan on when the boil gets up to a heavy steam. I've got a steam slayer but it is just much easier not to use it and my garage can handle the steam with venting but the lights above the kettle will drip eventually if I don't kick the fan on. I will say your switch never gets misplaced like the remote can to where you have to go looking for it.

 

[Golddiggie]

This is my panel. There are many like it, but this one is mine...

Double batching panel (50amp 240v feed).

 

[superiorsat]

Sweet panel. Love the Danger sticker! Hmm. Alexa enabled? Next upgrade.

 

[BrewingCanuck]

Well, I differently have any pannels I was thinking of this pump. Inline Chugger X-Dry Pump Kit with Camlock Fittings

 

[Golddiggie]

Sweet panel. Love the Danger sticker! Hmm. Alexa enabled? Next upgrade.

F Alexa... I have none of that crud around here.
IF I change this panel it would be another from Electric Brewing Supply (probably get the larger LCD version). But that would also mean I'd want to run a network cable to a switch. Which would either mean I'd need to run a longer line up to that close (on another floor) or get a small switch into the brewing area to connect up to. Probably won't happen until I'm in my next place either way. Besides, I need to be sure that that panel also comes ready to control the SCL pump.

If my next system is a Spike nano, I'm hoping they offer the option of going with a panel that has the LCD control too. There's two other system makers out there that I'm considering for that next step.

 

[superiorsat]

I have had offers on building total automation touch screen type panels from a friend and I said what if it goes down and he said I'd have to wait until he wasn't working so he could fix it. That is why I build my own and they are simple, so if they go down I can fix on the fly. Pair of 60 Amp 2 element controllers with start timers, and float switches. Oh yeah PUMPS. Got distracted with all that shiny bling. Love pumps mounted under the table to protect from spillage and there is no way for me to break them. Lol

 

[MaxStout]

This is my panel. There are many like it, but this one is mine...
View attachment 759661

Double batching panel (50amp 240v feed).

Do like the sticker. Just put it in my Amazon wish list, along with the "Danger do not touch--not only will this kill you, it will hurt the whole time you're dying."

 

[Golddiggie]

I have a second sticker (same as on the panel) on the head of my milling machine. On the side with the electronic controls in it. Really the only decent place to put it where it wouldn't cover up something I didn't want to cover up.

 

[IslandLizard]

Moderator's note:
Alright guys, after showing your panel bling and some applications of mounted pumps, can you please help the OP on how to use a pump, as that's what he wants to know:

all that lifting has gotten to me and I would like to use a pump to do the liquid transfer.
My question is how do you do that with the mash tun without getting it stuck?

[...] I was thinking of this pump. Inline Chugger X-Dry Pump Kit with Camlock Fittings

Thanks!

 

[superiorsat]

Well, I differently have any pannels I was thinking of this pump. Inline Chugger X-Dry Pump Kit with Camlock Fittings

That kit will do just fine. Hook inlet to vessel to remove liquid from and flood/prime pump head and connect outlet side to vessel to be filled and throttle fluid with ball valve on outlet of pump. Just need a way to turn it on and off didn't see mention of a built in switch or a power cord for that matter. GFCI outlet for sure regardless if you get a remote or build a switch into the cord or just pull the plug from the outlet so you don't electrocute yourself.

 

[Broken Crow]

Glad to see fellow Canucks on here. : ) Not sure what your budget is, but I've been using a cheaper quieter pump for some time now with just a couple attachments to make it very versatile:

The pump only cost me about $90 from a Canadian dealer on ebay ( Home Brewing Pump Food Grade Stainless Steel Head with 1/2'' Thread High 617256133873 | eBay ) I put the high-flow camlocks, thermomemter and 3-way valve all from ontariobeerkegs.com on it. ..oh, and I put a fan behind it too, because it does get kinda hot without it, but while it has less power than a chugger, it's worked out great for my 5-7 gallon batches.

 

[bracconiere]

i don't know if this is on topic or off....


but i've always wondered how to prime one of these brewing pumps?

 

[Biggz1313]

i don't know if this is on topic or off....


but i've always wondered how to prime one of these brewing pumps?

Gravity is your friend.

 

[bracconiere]

Gravity is your friend.

so drain down, pump up?

 

[Biggz1313]

so drain down, pump up?

Basically just have to have your pump in a spot that allows wort to make it to it on it's own. Technically the inlet of the pump needs to be below the level of the wort, but most people have the pump under or even with bottom of the mash tun or kettle or cooler or whatever. Just have to open valves and it'll flow into the pump.

 

[superiorsat]

SCL pump

Googled this every way I could think of but acronyms elude me, also suck at wheel of fortune and those words are just missing a few letters. Enlighten me on SCL if you would be so kind. It is pump related so I think we are good.

 

[Golddiggie]

Googled this every way I could think of but acronyms elude me, also suck at wheel of fortune and those words are just missing a few letters. Enlighten me on SCL if you would be so kind. It is pump related so I think we are good.

Steam Condenser Lid...

 

[JAReeves]

You turn down the pump with a ball valve on the "out" side of the pump. Most homebrew pumps are magnetic drive and are not self priming. You always want to restrict flow on the "out" side of these pumps, never on the "in" side.

So if pumping from the mash tun to the boil kettle you want the valve on the mash tun wide open, but either a valve on the "out" side of the pump just barely open to slow the flow. For this purpose it doesn't really matter if that valve is mounted on the kettle or on the pump itself. I end up putting valves on every kettle port and on every pump "out" side and they all get used.

To clarify:

Liquid moves from
HLT >> MT,
MT>>BK,
BK>>Plate Chiller & Fermenter

In between each of these items, there is the pump.

I open the valve on the vessel (HLT, MT, BK) that is leading to the pump completely.
I use the valve on the pump itself to adjust flow to the next vessel (MT, BK, PC/FV) in line (or if there isn't a valve built-in, then one should be added to the outflow of the pump itself).

The pump outflow valve is the only restrictor.