Taprite Gas Regulator for 2 kegs

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spaceyaquarius

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I have a dumb question. I am new to force carbonating 2 kegs at once. I used the slow-force carbonation method (set it and forget it - - - no corn sugar).

Placed two (5-gallon Cornelius kegs) at 10 PSI for 4 weeks (Belgian Wheat Ales) at 39 F in a kegerator. Taprite double regulator is shown below, and yes I realize that the regulator is not hooked up yet and that the right one has the gas line turned to off (that was prior to installation of course).






So after 4 weeks, the 2 kegs were ready to drink, they both seemed properly carbonated and aged. Then after 2 days, the right keg lost pouring pressure after about 5 pints, so I looked inside the kegerator and the right keg was at 0 PSI, though the left keg was still at 10 PSI and we have been drinking both kegs.

Hmmm. What went wrong???

1 - There is a gas leak somewhere on the right keg, (but not on the left one) - which means that the CO2 tank will eventually empty (but I cannot find the leak with spraying SanStar on the connections, have checked all of the gas lines, and why would it take 4 weeks to leak on either side for the 1st time?).

2 - Is there something that I do not understand with a double regulator where one keg may need to absorb more CO2 (bringing the right regulator PSI down to zero while the left keg PSI stays at 10 PSI) and then I should just turn the knob further towards the right on only one keg but not the other?

3 - I a complete moron. :drunk:

4 - I am an alien that is only posting on this board to collect information about the beer brewing process so that we may learn how to brew beer without extracting erronueous information from abudctees. :D
 
If there was a gas leak anywhere in the system, it would eventually affect both regulators. And it takes a pretty decent leak to drop system pressure to zero while a regulator is actually open - you'd surely hear the noise.

If the zero went to 10psi just by turning the regulator knob, I'd say someone or something changed the original setting. You sure someone isn't messin' with you?

Cheers! ;)
 
Assuming no leaks and that you have CO2 in the bottle still, and the CO2 cylinder is turned on (either of which would allow the leakier keg to fall to zero PSI before the other):

Vibration in the fridge and maybe lines rubbing on the knob might have shifted the right hand regulator knob, either when you replaced the kegs in the fridge or during carbonation and serving.

The regulator might have stuck closed due to moisture in it freezing up in the fridge.

The right hand regulator gauge might have stuck and the keg dip tube blocked with dry hop debris if there is any.

In either case, you don't say if the pressure comes back when you adjust the regulator back to where it should be. If it does, it's just one of those things...
 
Thanks. The pressure did come back after adjusting the knob back up to 10 psi. Beer tastes fine. The regulator easily could have frozen. My temps get down to 30 F sometimes.
 
I am a new kegger running a two keg system. Recently one keg suddenly stopped pouring. After the initial panic traced the beer line and found it was laying against the cold air inlet to the fridge and had froze in a spot. I simple readjustment and all was well. So many little things cause problems.
 
I am a new kegger running a two keg system. Recently one keg suddenly stopped pouring. After the initial panic traced the beer line and found it was laying against the cold air inlet to the fridge and had froze in a spot. I simple readjustment and all was well. So many little things cause problems.

I hear ya. I've made so many mistakes kegging that never happened with bottling. :drunk:

Didn't replace the o-rings on the so-called "reconditioned keg"
Coriander seeds stuck in the dip tube stopped the flow
My 1st regulator gauge was reading 5 PSI lower than actual PSI (bough another)
My vinyl beer lines leeched off a plastic taste (had to get barrier tubing)
Attempted to fast force carbonate my 1st 4 kegs and overshot the carbonation all 4 times

Live and Learn huh?
 
Here's another thing to add to your list: don't use PTFE tape on the CGA connection between the regulator and the tank. On that type of connection the threads don't do any sealing, rather it's the washer (or integrated o-ring) inside the fitting. Taping the straight threads of a CGA fitting can actually cause a leak.
 
Assuming no leaks and that you have CO2 in the bottle still, and the CO2 cylinder is turned on (either of which would allow the leakier keg to fall to zero PSI before the other):

Vibration in the fridge and maybe lines rubbing on the knob might have shifted the right hand regulator knob, either when you replaced the kegs in the fridge or during carbonation and serving.

The regulator might have stuck closed due to moisture in it freezing up in the fridge.

The right hand regulator gauge might have stuck and the keg dip tube blocked with dry hop debris if there is any.

In either case, you don't say if the pressure comes back when you adjust the regulator back to where it should be. If it does, it's just one of those things...



Tee hee hee !..........He said "rubbing on the knob"............Extra points as well, for using it in a sentence........:D
 
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