Talk to me about sanke valve to tri-clover conversions

[scone]

Sorry if this has been asked before, I haven't been able to find an answer...

I'm trying to convert a sanke valve port into a 1/2 inch pipe thread fitting so I can build a bottom draining keg MLT. Something like this actually: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rip-cooler-e-hlt-helloooooo-bottom-drain-keg-e-hlt-176101/

However, not having a keg on hand (still hunting for a good deal), it's hard for me to figure out exactly what parts I need to order to make this happen. The poster in the above thread said he used a 2'' to 1/2'' male NPT tri-clover fitting and a 2'' tri-clover clamp.

Will this work for me? I.e. do all sanke kegs have the same valve configuration, or do I need to wait and see what I can buy before I order anything?

Also, here is my idea for the required parts, some please correct me if I'm missing something:

sanke keg ->
2''-to-1/2''-male-NPT tri-clover fitting ->
2'' tri-clover clamp ->
1/2'' threaded SS elbow ->
1/2'' threaded SS pipe ->
1/2'' female NPT SS ball valve ->
1/2'' male NPT to 1/2'' hose barb

It looks like I can get all of these things from brewer's hardware, but I want to make sure I've got everything I'll need before I place an order.

 

[Mose]

I am doing this with my MLT and BK. If you follow what the OP in the thread you posted did you'll be right on the mark. I bought my supplies from a couple of places on ebay to try and save a few bucks.

The only change I made to his set up was the seal. Instead of using the cooking pan I ordered normal triclover seals. They wouldn't allow the clamp to tighten down because of the ridge on both sides. I carefully removed the ridge from the side contacting the sanke and it works great.

I can't help you much on the sanke neck size. I don't know if the european kegs which use different couplers would give you a problem with this set up. If you stick with an American Sanke you would be fine. good luck.

 

[scone]

Awesome, that's what I was hoping for. Were your seals something like this? http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-Gasket-PTFE.html

Says they don't work for Sanke-to-fitting, but I'm assuming it would be a similar deal to yours where I can cut them a bit to make it work.

 

[Mose]

Awesome, that's what I was hoping for. Were your seals something like this? http://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-Gasket-PTFE.html

Says they don't work for Sanke-to-fitting, but I'm assuming it would be a similar deal to yours where I can cut them a bit to make it work.

It sounds the same. No picture so I can't confirm, but the description sounds right.

A little handy work with a razor and a steady hand and she works fine. I tested it on BunaN seals first and have silicone waiting to be altered.

Good luck.

 

[pickles]

I have this setup on my HLT and MT. 2" tri-clamps will fit a standard sanke, but you'll have to trim the ridge off one side as stated above. I altered the silicone gasket with no problems. There are pics in the thread in my sig line of the connections.

 

[klyph]

You could go all triclover for ultimate bling.

 

[bwiens]

You could go all triclover for ultimate bling.
...

Looks like what I am doing. I am either using a 2" to 1.5" reducer then 1" elbow or a 2" elbow then a 2" to 1" eccentric reducer. I will eventually add a 1" sight glass as well. This would be for the MLT and Whirlpool, swapping it between them.

Use the silcone o-ring for tri clover to sanke. I have used the o-ring with 2 of these American-Sanke-Keg-Fermenter-Kit-with-Thermowell. They seal up nicely and no trimming.

 

[SankePankey]

You could go all triclover for ultimate bling.

This is exactly what I do. Except that it's my fermenter. The 90 degree elbow makes for a great yeast catcher and gives me more yeast volume vs not having a 60 degree cone.

I have the bling-est butterfly valve (called Ultra-sanitary) too, from StPats. The body of the valve is held by a clamp itself- no bolts. $75.

 

[Duckfoot]

I pondered going the full tri-clamp route myself (as the poster of the referred thread)... Honestly, price was the biggest factor...

By the time I added up the fittings and clamps for "full bling", it was getting a little outta hand for me...

KLG Stainless on eBay has been great to me...

As far as the gasket, I may try to trim down the one I ordered, but since I couldn't get it to seal, I just made my own... It hasn't leaked yet, even thought it does have a small split, but I still have plenty of leftover baking dish to work with in case it fails...

I am currently working on a bottom drain MLT to match the HLT... Boil kettle will remain the old trusty keggle that it is...

Now to build a single tier rig for the beast... MUAHAHAHAHAHHAA!!!!

 

[Musketear]

Not to revive an old thread, but where did you guys find the Tri-clover 2' to 1/2" male NPT fitting? I can't seem to find one anywhere on the internet. The closest thing I can find is a Tri-clover 2' to 1" male NPT...

 

[scone]

Not to revive an old thread, but where did you guys find the Tri-clover 2' to 1/2" male NPT fitting? I can't seem to find one anywhere on the internet. The closest thing I can find is a Tri-clover 2' to 1" male NPT...

I got mine at http://www.brewershardware.com/.

 

[JuanMoore]

Not to revive an old thread, but where did you guys find the Tri-clover 2' to 1/2" male NPT fitting? I can't seem to find one anywhere on the internet. The closest thing I can find is a Tri-clover 2' to 1" male NPT...

KLG stainless (mentioned earlier in this thread) usually has them, and he has good prices. Check his e-bay store.

http://stores.ebay.com/KLG-Stainless-Inc/_i.html?rt=nc&_sid=104016557&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=2

Looks like he has 9 of them in stock for $11.95 ea.

 

[allclene]

Here's a link to a kit for that its only 27.00.
http://www.brewhardware.com/valves/137-tcsanke

 

[Duckfoot]

Geez... have a kid and fall out of brewing for a couple of years and suddenly the LBHS's have kits for what I did... LOL