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Syracuse, ny - round 6 group grain buy

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Is there any life left in the keg purchase we were discussing? I'm contemplating getting some more kegs soon as I've been keeping them all full and they seem to just be going up in price everywhere.
 
I personally disagree, just because I got sick of hauling propane, and it is highly inefficient was spending 5-7$ per brew depending on where I filled up. I think this is even more true once you up the 5g batch to a 10g or similar. And let's face it - the indoor brewing it a lot easier electric. Really nice knowing I don't have to run to the gas station for a fill up mid brew.

It sounds crazy too, but electric in the summer is awesome. Super quiet (my burner sounded like a jet engine). But to each his own! :D

Alright off to shop prices on some yeast. Looks like a Belgian specialty might be up next!

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't claiming one was better than the other - I just prefer it. It costs me about $3 per batch for propane and is really easy for me to get. I don't and never will brew indoors otherwise I would seriously consider electric. Hell, I don't even plan on getting pumps. I'm going to run gravity for quite some time.
 
Smashing said:
Don't get me wrong, I wasn't claiming one was better than the other - I just prefer it. It costs me about $3 per batch for propane and is really easy for me to get. I don't and never will brew indoors otherwise I would seriously consider electric. Hell, I don't even plan on getting pumps. I'm going to run gravity for quite some time.

Which ever method saves me the most time. Since that's what I don't have a ton of. I'd consider electric if it's faster. But not sure if it is. Plus I can't run a 220 line to my garage easy. And my basement is not an option since its my game room since boiling wort prob isn't good for my pinball machines.
 
electric is just as fast, or faster than propane (I seem to think I have done an 11g batch in 3.5-4hrs at my fastest, but don't quote me). I do 11g batches and I can match times like you have stated. That is when the batch is a 60 minute type. If the batch is a 90 minute then it adds some to it. The most I ever did was a triple brew day, and on here somewhere I posted how long that took, but can't recall off the top of my head.

With electric you basically are getting 100% heat transfer from the element tot he wort. With the gas you get a lot of heat escaping on the sides of the brew pot etc. I have a 180,000 btu burner too, so it had nothing to do with burner capacity.

That is a heck of a price 0n propane you are getting (don't think I ever got a refill for that cheap), but based on the research other on HBT have done electric is cheaper in the long run. When I figured my cost out I calculated that I would have me electric rig paid off on about 3-4 years of brewing in energy cost savings (not even counting convenience costs, etc.). For me aside from the cost savings is the absolutely the convenience and the hobby part. i.e. building and designing the stuff is a lot of fun and it keeps me busy doing something I enjoy.

I brewing electric a requirement? Absolutely not. But to me, I would never go back to propane now. I flip a switch and i have an unlimited on demand power supply.
 
Is there any life left in the keg purchase we were discussing? I'm contemplating getting some more kegs soon as I've been keeping them all full and they seem to just be going up in price everywhere.

mparsonsYeah I would like to know a bit more about this too!

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't claiming one was better than the other - I just prefer it. It costs me about $3 per batch for propane and is really easy for me to get. I don't and never will brew indoors otherwise I would seriously consider electric. Hell, I don't even plan on getting pumps. I'm going to run gravity for quite some time.

Smashing, sorry if I came off otherwise - I knew you weren't pushing an agenda :D

Electric has been costed out at about $1.19 per batch. For me I was spending about $5-7 per batch depending on where I got the propane. I think the cheapest I ever got was at tractor supply ($15). On the weekend if I ran to the gas station in a pinch, I think it was closer to $20.

I said the same thing about pumps as you did. Hell I said the same thing about ballvalves in my pots. Then I tried them and wow, they are great - ha! I think for me I am happy with a progression. Adding things as I go because while I save money making beer, I enjoy the hobby aspect of it. FWIW, I also said I would never get an IC and would just use snow and brew in the winter...

Reality of it all is that whatever you enjoy doing is the way to go. If you are a constant tinkerer like me then you will probably always be adding or changing things until you are running your own brewery ha! :mug:
 
Which ever method saves me the most time. Since that's what I don't have a ton of. I'd consider electric if it's faster. But not sure if it is. Plus I can't run a 220 line to my garage easy. And my basement is not an option since its my game room since boiling wort prob isn't good for my pinball machines.

I would be willing to bet electric is faster (that was absolutely my experience), especially noticeable when you step up to the larger batch sizes. Now by how much I am not sure. 30 minutes over a brew session? Who knows because I never got out a stop watch.

One thing I do know is that electric costs a bit more upfront to get you started than a basic turkey fryer set up. In the long run it will pay itself off and is a worthy investment IMO.
 
It seems like the split spreadsheet was lonely, so I added .25 onto the split for GW-C150. Still contemplating whether I want to get 2 bags of TF-MOPA instead of one....
 
Jumped in on the FB-DMUN (Dark Munich). Just need the last 1/3.

Awesome!

Here is what is still open:

Grain:
BD-RSTB - Needs 1 - 1/4
CM-RYEM - Needs 1 - 1/4
TF-CHOC - Needs 1 - 1/3
TF-AMBR - Needs 1 - 1/3
BD-BLCK - Needs 2 - 1/4
GW-C150 - Needs 2 - 1/4
GP-FLOAT - Needs 2 - 1/3
FB - DMUN - Needs 1 - 1/3
GW-C30 - Needs 2 - 1/4
GW-C60 - Needs 2 - 1/4

Chem:
5S-PBW50 - Needs 1 - 1/4
 
Awesome!

Here is what is still open:

Grain:
BD-RSTB - Needs 1 - 1/4
CM-RYEM - Needs 1 - 1/4
TF-CHOC - Needs 1 - 1/3
TF-AMBR - Needs 1 - 1/3
BD-BLCK - Needs 2 - 1/4
GW-C150 - Needs 2 - 1/4
GP-FLOAT - Needs 2 - 1/3
FB - DMUN - Needs 1 - 1/3
GW-C30 - Needs 2 - 1/4
GW-C60 - Needs 2 - 1/4

Chem:
5S-PBW50 - Needs 1 - 1/4

I just finished out the FB-DMUN.
 
Smashing said:
What other grains are good to have around? I'll be set on 2 row, c60, roasted, chocolate and now rye.

Marris Otter.
Marris Otter.

Did I mention Marris Otter? :)

Also Vienna, Munich.
Maybe some lighter crystal, eg c15?
Carapils or wheat for head retention?
 
What other grains are good to have around? I'll be set on 2 row, c60, roasted, chocolate and now rye.

I'd say carapils (can be used in a lot of styles), but it depends on what you like to brew.

If you like stouts, hefes, witbier etc. (flaked oats, FLwheat; FL barley)

I use a fair amount of C40, C80 and C120 too.

If you are asking about what from the split list... TF-AMBR? :D
 
I might be in for quite a bit more soon.. :p..

This is on a sad note.. :( i just lost my job so if i cant find a job in the next month or tow down here ill be moving home.. and brewing up a ton like i was before!~
 
Marris Otter.
Marris Otter.

Did I mention Marris Otter? :)

Also Vienna, Munich.

I have MO on this order. Never used it so I just went with one bag.



I'd say carapils (can be used in a lot of styles), but it depends on what you like to brew.

If you like stouts, hefes, witbier etc. (flaked oats, FLwheat; FL barley)

I use a fair amount of C40, C80 and C120 too.

If you are asking about what from the split list... TF-AMBR? :D

I brew all ales. No lagers. I love pales, IPA and stouts. Need to try a porter. Oh, no wheat beers either. Wouldn't mind trying a dark mild....
 
Smashing said:
Other than a pilsner, what do you use pils in?

I've only started brewing with it, but...

You can use it as a base malt in basically any German or Belgian style. So wheat beers, rye beers, or German Alt (warm fermented) and bock (lagered), and Belgian dubbels, tripels, saison, etc.
 
Other than a pilsner, what do you use pils in?

I have used it in Belgian goldens, dubbels; hefes (regular and dunkels), witbier, altbier (amber ale), pilsners lager of course; Belgian specialty ale (coming up in a few weeks); sam adams summer ale clone - to name a few.

You can use pils in place of 2 row pretty much in any case, but you will get more malty character. So you ahve to keep that in mind.
 
Empire Brewing in armory square uses pilsner malt for all of their beers. I had had a hard time trying to get them to use UK pale malt for my bitter.
 
Empire Brewing in armory square uses pilsner malt for all of their beers. I had had a hard time trying to get them to use UK pale malt for my bitter.

Yeah thats what I've heard about EBC.

Also for any recipe that uses a large amount of pils, make sure to boil for 90 mins to help boil off DMS. Also dont boil with a lid on either.
 
So pils malt is more malty? Is it a large jump?

On another note, did a pick up for this buy get decided on?

I think it really depends on the recipe. I can taste a difference, in a very good way, between 2row and pilsner in my summer ale clone. I would say it is likely hard to tell in some dark or very hoppy brews because so much is going on that it won't stand out as much. If empire uses it for everything, that pretty much says it.

Pick up location hasn't been decided on yet.
 

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