Switching to from Propane to natural gas

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OrdinaryAvgGuy

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Hi everyone. I've been brewing 5-6 gallon batches with a Bayou Classic SQ14 55,000 BTU burner for a couple years now.

After recently switching my grill over to natural gas, and I'm ready to switch my beer burner over to NG and rid myself of these three 20lb propane cylinders that all always seem to be empty. :confused:

I've read about swapping out the gas line and drilling out my Bayou Classic but would rather not risk ruining my propane burner because I may want to sell it or brew with it one day.

So I'm researching burners and can't seem to find what I am looking for as a complete unit. From what I'm gathering, a 23 jet unmodified will be overkill when it comes to boiling 6 or less gallons of wort/water. I've have seen where others have blocked off 13 of the jets, leaving just 10.

I'm more interested in a 10 jet burner such as this one
618ng-10-jet-natural-gas-jet-burner.jpg

but one that is already mounted inside of a stand with perhaps a natural gas quick disconnect hose already attached. In other words, a complete unit that's ready to go. Does this even exist?

I've also contemplated the idea of ordering the mentioned burner and mounting it inside of my Bayou stand. Doing it this way I should be able to simply swap out the burners if ever needed.

What are my options here? What are you guys who still brew 5 gallon batches using as a natural gas heat source?
 
After looking into those jet burners, I bought a spare nipple for my SQ-14 burner at my LHBS for about $4, drilled that one out and attached it to a NG hose. It works great for 5 gallon batches. I still have the original nipple and propane hose/regulator so I can swap it back to propane if I want to brew elsewhere.
 
After looking into those jet burners, I bought a spare nipple for my SQ-14 burner at my LHBS for about $4, drilled that one out and attached it to a NG hose. It works great for 5 gallon batches. I still have the original nipple and propane hose/regulator so I can swap it back to propane if I want to brew elsewhere.

Could you further elaborate on this spare nipple that you are referring to? What exactly did you drill out?
 
Everything is an option so long as you have the wherewithal to aisle engineer a solution. Hurricane casting are super easy to mount. A couple strips of plumbers strap is usually all that is needed.

I believe that The SQ14 that I have already has a hurricane burner mounted. So what you are saying is that I should be able to change the orifices and hose to make it work?
 
I'd go with the cast iron banjo burner (same burner that is in the Blichmann floor burner) and get the Blichmann NG conversion kit to go with it. It has both the orifice and regulating valve.

Could also just get that kit and use it with the SQ14. The orifice is the brass fitting the hose connects to just prior to the air vane. The included needle valve replaces the regulator.
 
Looks like the SQ-14 actually has a banjo burner casting. But, yes, same principle applies. Get the $15 kit from Blichman, Sabco, etc.. Or look for a NG orifice at Lowes. Threads should be the same and if it's labelled for NG it'll already have the proper orifice size but, they are easy to drill being brass. A good valve inline and you are set.
 
I believe the SQ14 burner is 6" and the hurricane burners are 10", so you'll have less BTUs. You should be able to change out the orifice, though, and see if it has the suds with NG to get your wort up to a boil. Worse case is you have to upgrade to a larger burner if your SQ14 can't cut the muster.
 
I believe the SQ14 burner is 6" and the hurricane burners are 10", so you'll have less BTUs. You should be able to change out the orifice, though, and see if it has the suds with NG to get your wort up to a boil. Worse case is you have to upgrade to a larger burner if your SQ14 can't cut the muster.

The SQ14 does have a 6" burner.

Satph, would you say that your NG configuration using the SQ14 heats just as well as when it was used with propane?
 
BTUs with NG will be about 15% lower than with propane, which cuts your 55,000 BTU burner down to around 46,000. My guess is that it would be enough to get the job done for 5g batches.
 
Looks like the SQ-14 actually has a banjo burner casting. But, yes, same principle applies. Get the $15 kit from Blichman, Sabco, etc.. Or look for a NG orifice at Lowes. Threads should be the same and if it's labelled for NG it'll already have the proper orifice size but, they are easy to drill being brass. A good valve inline and you are set.

The Blichmann conversion kit sounds like the way to go.

Could you further elaborate on how to make the connections? My NG supply has a quick release female connection. I suppose I would be using a supply line similar to this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VAXQYY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

So would it connect like so - Burner >orifice >needle valve >supply hose > quick connect to supply. Does the needle valve connect directly to the orifice?
 
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BTUs with NG will be about 15% lower than with propane, which cuts your 55,000 BTU burner down to around 46,000. My guess is that it would be enough to get the job done for 5g batches.

Yes, that's what I'm thinking. As you mentioned, I can always upgrade to the larger burner.
 
So would it connect like so - Burner >orifice >needle valve >supply hose > quick connect to supply. Does the needle valve connect directly to the orifice?

This is exactly right. And yes, the needle valve connects directly to the orifice.

My setup uses that very same hose from Amazon that you linked to. I've got pictures of the connections. Give me a minute to find them and I'll add them to this post.

Edit: Pictures added (sorry about the poor quality)

The first one is just a ball valve and the QD hose connected with an elbow between them, since I wasn't thinking when I plumbed it and oriented it horizontal. If I'd oriented it vertical I wouldn't have needed the elbow. By the time I figured out my mistake, everything was tight and sealed and I didn't want to mess with trying to re-orient it.

The second one shows the other end of the QD hose connecting directly to the needle valve, which is connected to the orifice threaded into the burner.

Image_2.jpg


Image_1.jpg
 
I did the blichmann ng conversion a few months ago for my blichmann floor burner and a smaller bayou burner. The bayou had to be drilled out and retapped and then worked like a charm. I've noticed no difference in heating times with the blichmann but the smaller bayou is slower for sure. This is perfectly acceptable for me as I use it to heat sparge water. I'm still brewing 5 gallon batches but as of my next brew I'll be doing 10 gallons. I think the ng blichmann will be more than enough.
If you're gonna do anything bigger than 10 I think you'd be better off with that crazy jet burner you posted
 
I use the jet burners you have pictured above. I have 2 of them in line plumbed with 1/2 inch black pipe. I have a qd and a flexible PVC hose to connect to my gas line. The setup works well. I can do 2 15 gallon boils simultaneously. The 10 jet burners are the way to go, but are hard to find and can cost more than the 23 jet models.

I have a strut stand. I've never seen a pre built stand with these burners.
 
This is exactly right. And yes, the needle valve connects directly to the orifice.

My setup uses that very same hose from Amazon that you linked to. I've got pictures of the connections. Give me a minute to find them and I'll add them to this post.

Awesome! Thanks!
 
I did the blichmann ng conversion a few months ago for my blichmann floor burner and a smaller bayou burner. The bayou had to be drilled out and retapped and then worked like a charm. I've noticed no difference in heating times with the blichmann but the smaller bayou is slower for sure. This is perfectly acceptable for me as I use it to heat sparge water. I'm still brewing 5 gallon batches but as of my next brew I'll be doing 10 gallons. I think the ng blichmann will be more than enough.
If you're gonna do anything bigger than 10 I think you'd be better off with that crazy jet burner you posted

Does your Bayou have the 6" burner? I'm wondering if the threads are going to work with my Bayou. I just measured and they seemed to be 3/8", just wondering if maybe the threads are different.
 
Does your Bayou have the 6" burner? I'm wondering if the threads are going to work with my Bayou. I just measured and they seemed to be 3/8", just wondering if maybe the threads are different.

I am glad you picked up on that. I would not expect the threads to be different. And having to tap the casting would prevent "unconversion" from happening. However, tapping is easy and a functional tap can be sourced from Harbour Freight cheaply.

However, sourcing a second orifice from Bayou classic and drilling it out would eliminate those concerns.
 
Sub'd. Looking to convert to NG myself soon, along with welding up a brewstand now that I have a nice 15 gallon Megapot with valve...
 
I am glad you picked up on that. I would not expect the threads to be different. And having to tap the casting would prevent "unconversion" from happening. However, tapping is easy and a functional tap can be sourced from Harbour Freight cheaply.

However, sourcing a second orifice from Bayou classic and drilling it out would eliminate those concerns.

Yes, I'm glad that this was mentioned. I'm leaning towards having the ability to convert it back to propane if desired so buying a second orfice from bayou and drilling may be the only option.

If I can get confirmation concerning Blichmann Converter kit thread size working with the 6" Bayou banjo burner I'll go ahead and order it.

I just measured the threads going into the burner with a micrometer and are 3/8" but I'm not sure if we are taking fine, medium, or course threading. Anyone?
 
Does your Bayou have the 6" burner? I'm wondering if the threads are going to work with my Bayou. I just measured and they seemed to be 3/8", just wondering if maybe the threads are different.

I believe the fitting size of the Blichmann NG orifice is 1/4" NPT (burner side) x 3/8" flare (needle valve side).
 
I just measured the threads going into the burner with a micrometer and are 3/8" but I'm not sure if we are taking fine, medium, or course threading. Anyone?

I think what you have there is 1/8" NPT, so the Blichmann orifice won't fit without either drilling out the casting and re-tapping or finding a female 1/4" NPT to male 1/8" NPT reducer (not sure if these are available, but I would expect them to be).

Here you go.
 
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This is a timely thread, realized the gas shutoff valve and meter are right at the corner of my garage where I setup my new brew space at my new house. I was looking at it a few months ago and realized I probably should look into the cost of installing a hookup for my burner and converting over from propane. I mean propane works fine, but the gas main is RIGHT there and I would never need to worry about filling propane tanks again, other than for my little BBQ.
 
This is a timely thread, realized the gas shutoff valve and meter are right at the corner of my garage where I setup my new brew space at my new house. I was looking at it a few months ago and realized I probably should look into the cost of installing a hookup for my burner and converting over from propane. I mean propane works fine, but the gas main is RIGHT there and I would never need to worry about filling propane tanks again, other than for my little BBQ.

Do it!

Cutting the propane cord has been one of the best brewing decisions I've made.
 
I believe the fitting size of the Blichmann NG orifice is 1/4" NPT (burner side) x 3/8" flare (needle valve side).

Hum. That sounds more like it. Maybe because I measured the outside of the threads instead of the inside.

I'm looking at the Bayou product specs and it says that the orifice threads are 1/4"MNPT. If the Blichmann is in fact 1/4" and uses the MNPT threads then it should work. I'm searching for the Blichmann thread size now to confirm.
 
This is a timely thread, realized the gas shutoff valve and meter are right at the corner of my garage where I setup my new brew space at my new house. I was looking at it a few months ago and realized I probably should look into the cost of installing a hookup for my burner and converting over from propane. I mean propane works fine, but the gas main is RIGHT there and I would never need to worry about filling propane tanks again, other than for my little BBQ.

Definitely worth it. I was refilling propane tanks about once a month at $22 a pop. I haven't noticed any increase in my gas bill since switching to NG.

My stand has pilot lights, so I plug it into the gas line, light the pilots and I can turn the burners on and off as needed. I added a nice NG QD so I can pop the hose on in a few seconds. No permanent connection needed.
 
Hum. That sounds more like it. Maybe because I measured the outside of the threads instead of the inside.

I'm looking at the Bayou product specs and it says that the orifice threads are 1/4"MNPT. If the Blichmann is in fact 1/4" and uses the MNPT threads then it should work. I'm searching for the Blichmann thread size now to confirm.

I have a spare orifice at home for the Blichmann burner. I'll measure it and report back when I get home this evening if you don't find your answer before then. I'm almost certain it's 1/4" NPT, though.

Update: Confirmed 1/4" NPT is the thread size in the Blichmann Floor (and Bayou Classic Banjo) cast iron burner.
 
I never used my SQ-14 on propane, so I can't compare the boil times. It's supposed to be de-rated when using NG (Blichmann claims 15%) so I assume I could boil faster with propane. For 5gallon batches I put my strike water first on a brew day and have time to weigh and mill my grains. While the boil is coming up I have enough time to prep all of my hops additions. I get a nice rolling boil even when it's below freezing outside. I very rarely feel that I'm waiting on the burner. Best of all there's no tank to run out. When you switch, if you can report the comparisons that would be great to know.
 
I'm finding conflicting information online when it comes to the thread size of the BG12 burner.

I'm measuring about .35" with a micrometer which is about 3/8 of an inch. Some places online are saying that the orifice threads are 1/4" while others are saying different":confused:
 
If you measure across the very first thread on the male fitting, the diameter should be:

~.495 for 1/4" NPT
~.375 for 1/8" NPT

Picture added of a 1/4" NPT thread measurement with calipers...

DSCN2266.JPG
 
If you measure across the very first thread on the male fitting, the diameter should be:

~.495 for 1/4" NPT
~.375 for 1/8" NPT

Picture added of a 1/4" NPT thread measurement with calipers...

Thanks! That helped a lot.

Measured as mentioned, I'm getting .375 so I guess its the 1/8" NPT. I'm still not understanding how .375 - 1/8". Shouldn't 1/8" be .125?
 
It's a pipe thread, so it's not the thread size that the nominal size corresponds to, it's the size of the inside diameter of a pipe. For a piece of pipe to be .125 diameter inside, it will require a considerably larger outside thread size. Make sense?
 
I never used my SQ-14 on propane, so I can't compare the boil times. It's supposed to be de-rated when using NG (Blichmann claims 15%) so I assume I could boil faster with propane. For 5gallon batches I put my strike water first on a brew day and have time to weigh and mill my grains. While the boil is coming up I have enough time to prep all of my hops additions. I get a nice rolling boil even when it's below freezing outside. I very rarely feel that I'm waiting on the burner. Best of all there's no tank to run out. When you switch, if you can report the comparisons that would be great to know.

Will do. Thanks!
 
It's a pipe thread, so it's not the thread size that the nominal size corresponds to, it's the size of the inside diameter of a pipe. For a piece of pipe to be .125 diameter inside, it will require a considerably larger outside thread size. Make sense?

Ah okay. I was just reading up on pipe thread size.. I learned something new today. Thanks for clarifying.

So it doesn't look like I can use the Blichmann without a reducer as mentioned.

While looking around just now I came across this conversion valve Which seems to have the same thread configuration but a little less expensive. I did however notice that it had a ball valve instead of a needle valve. I'm guessing a needle valve will give better control?

Anyone know of a 1/8" NPT NG orifice/valve converter?
 
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