Switching Between Heating Elements

[conan71]

I apologize if I’m re-treading an old topic. I’ve searched through numerous threads and can’t seem to find a concise answer to what I’m needing to do. I’ve reviewed PJ’s diagrams and have somewhat of an idea but thought I’d ask directly.

I’ve got an existing RIMS system with individual Omega CN 8500 PID and Omega 40a SSR’s. The BK is LP fired, I’m converting my keggle to electric with a 4500 watt low density element from Blichmann. Yes, the system is a 240V system.

I checked the operation and programming of the Omegas and there does not appear to be a manual mode on one PID and the other was problematic getting through the menu to it so I bought a pair of Auber 2352’s to replace the Omegas.

I plan to use set point control for the RIMS and manual mode for the BK off the same PID. Can I simply add a switch on the power out side of the SSR to divert the electrical output from the RIMS to the BK and back?

 

[passedpawn]

I apologize if I’m re-treading an old topic. I’ve searched through numerous threads and can’t seem to find a concise answer to what I’m needing to do. I’ve reviewed PJ’s diagrams and have somewhat of an idea but thought I’d ask directly.

I’ve got an existing RIMS system with individual Omega CN 8500 PID and Omega 40a SSR’s. The BK is LP fired, I’m converting my keggle to electric with a 4500 watt low density element from Blichmann. Yes, the system is a 240V system.

I checked the operation and programming of the Omegas and there does not appear to be a manual mode on one PID and the other was problematic getting through the menu to it so I bought a pair of Auber 2352’s to replace the Omegas.

I plan to use set point control for the RIMS and manual mode for the BK off the same PID. Can I simply add a switch on the power out side of the SSR to divert the electrical output from the RIMS to the BK and back?

You could do that, but it is easier to just switch the pid output to select which SSR you want to turn on. I've done just this for years, works perfectly. SSR inputs are optocouplers and require current to turn on; no current, OFF.

The PID output is low voltage, so you can use any switch you like. In fact, I got a fancy switch that also switched the returning RTD so that when I switched the element the PID showed the temperature of the correct kettle.

 

[passedpawn]

BTW, if you really want to switch the 240V, Home depot does sell a DPDT 240V 30A switch.

 

[conan71]

I’m not adding an extra SSR. At the present I’ve got one dedicated PID and SSR for the HLT and another dedicated PID and SSR for the RIMS element. I want a simple switch solution to divert the final 240V power output off one of the PID/SSR’s from it’s primary function to the BK.

The RIMS and HLT are both hard-wired to the control panel. My LHBS suggested I could install a twist lock or dryer outlet on the panel and simply unplug the RIMS or HLT element and plug in the BK when ready to run in manual mode. I’d really rather not resort to that, flipping a switch on the final output is far more attractive.

I’ve also thought of simply going with a dedicated analog controller for the BK but don’t see the point in spending another $200 to $250 when the PID is perfectly capable of controlling the BK.

 

[passedpawn]

Gotcha. That switch there won't work actually. It's a DPST. Disregard my message above.

You need Bryant 3025. I have one of these, but never used it (still getting around to rebuilding my panel).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3025I-Bryan...IB-/151091864826?ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:3160