Switchcraft's plug and outlet option

[runs4beer]

Wow, REALLY?!? Ok, you convinced me I'm going to use another set of switchcraft plugs to go between the control panel and the spa panel -if it's as easy as just using a bit of olive oil it's definitely worth staying with the switchcraft connectors.

Adam

Well, I didn't have a problem with MY 10/4 that I couldn't solve w/ a little oil but that being said I did have a little trouble with one of the lengths 10/3 I bought. I'm going to guess that there might be some difference in diameter in all the different cord stocks, they all might not be the same in diameter. I got two length of 10/3 at the same HD about a month apart, installing the switchcraft plugs went fine on the first but the second required a little oil (this was the one I did to start this thread).

 

[biertourist]

My 10/4 looks just like your 10/3 and was also from Home Depot. I'm not so sure that the 10/4 will fit. -This makes getting the whole connector together very, very difficult. (But again going to the elements there's no reason to use anything other than 10/3.)

Adam

 

[runs4beer]

Yep, I think that's the point I'm trying to make; all the 10/4 and all the 10/3 SOOW Neoprene-Jacketed Power Cable may look and function the same but they may have a slightly different outside diameters maybe even in the same roll. So, just to be safe you may want to bring the cord end plug to HD or where ever you're buying your cable stock from and ask to test the plug body and compression ring first. I didn't do this but with a little lubricant I was able to get the compression ring and body to slide on the 10/4 with out a problem.

 

[whoaru99]

If you're actually using Sxxx then SJxxx might better serve your need in this case. It's smaller diameter, generally.

 

[goybar]

Dumb question... Why does it matter which end of the power cable goes to your control panel and which goes to your element?

It is just a wire making a connection between the two, no?

What am I missing?

Chris

 

[runs4beer]

Dumb question... Why does it matter which end of the power cable goes to your control panel and which goes to your element?

It is just a wire making a connection between the two, no?

What am I missing?

Chris

To answers your question it doesn't matter which end of the cable is plugged in the element or CP.
But if one was, for some reason was to plug the main power supply into an output outlet (power supply TO the element) then bad things might happen. For me I really don't see how I would make this mistake, I set up my equipment before I power up. The power in is on the top left side of the CP and the power out for the elements and pumps and the RTD probes are all on the bottom of the CP. If I were to have to unplug and re-plug during a brew session then maybe I'd want to have something to physical prevent this.

 

[goybar]

Thank you, I couldn't understand why it would make a difference.

I haven't gone electric yet, but working it all out.

As you said, I would power anything up until setup was complete.

I do like your method of having the power into the panel located differently than the power out, just in case..

-chris

 

[kshuler]

subscribed

 

[biertourist]

Dumb question... Why does it matter which end of the power cable goes to your control panel and which goes to your element?

It is just a wire making a connection between the two, no?

What am I missing?

Chris

It doesn't matter.



If you have a 4 wire cable for going from the spa panel to the control panel an separate 3 wire cables for going to your elements, you need to know which is which but it doesn't matter what end goes where. -Some folks have implemented solutions to prevent them from accidentally connecting the power cable coming from the spa panel (the "power in") into a power-out connector on the control panel -I'm guessing that this is what you're referring to.

(I simply located my powerin on the left side of my box and the power outs on the bottom -I also color coded everything with colored electrical tape.)

adam

 

[jbnla]

I ordered the Moser HPCP41F1 for the panel and the tabs are very small in relation to the plug. On investigation I determined that the the tabs on the plug are .250 and on the panel I ordered is .187. I then found there is a panel with the same tabs as the plug (.250). It has the same number but with the 1 left off the end #HPCP41F. Did you use the smaller tabs in your panel and electric box ? They are rated the same just smaller. However if you wish to connect to a crimp I'm not sure I can easily fine a .187 connector rated for 12AWG. Did anyone else deal with this ? Should I reorder the .250 or does it really matter. Also the panel does not have the plastic X separating the 4 tabs as the plug.
Any advice would be appreciated as I am still gathering parts and info.
Also would love to see pics of your latest new connection.
Thanks for a great addition to the E-Build.

 

[smittygouv30]

I had the same issue as I ordered the 41F1's. No matter what size female connector you get I still think you are going to have to solder and shrink wrap the connections in order to feel any kind of security using these plugs/receptacles. I love them personally, as thy are small, easy to use, and a heck of a lot cheaper than the nema plugs. The down side is that they are a lot of work to put together. Here are some pics of my element receptacle. I did the same thing to go from wall receptacle to spa panel, spa panel to control panel, and control panel to element.

 

[runs4beer]

Jbnla,
Do you think that you received the non "fast-on" type? That's what it sounds like; could you post a photo? I agree shrink wrap should be used regardless.

 

[AllanMar]

They are both Fast-on, one is the more common .250", and that one is the .187" (harder to find terminals for ). The proper size faston on should be pretty secure, although as these aren't designed as AC connectors (I'm not arguing against their use) the separation between conductors isn't as much as it usually is. With the larger .250" terminals they had to put plastic separators because they're closer together. If you look at AC rated connectors they have much more for separation between terminals so as already mentioned you should probably heat shrink them to be safe.

HPCP41F HPC Panel Mount Receptacle, Rectangular, .140" Diameter Countersunk Mounting Holes, .100" Flange Depth / .250" Faston Terminals

HPCP41F1 HPC Panel Mount Receptacle, Rectangular, .140" Diameter Countersunk Mounting Holes, .100" Flange Depth / .187" Faston Terminals

If you've got the $$ I find the PowerCON connectors are much nicer. (I bought switchcraft for my elements and got some 20A powercon for the pumps).

 

[jbnla]

Jbnla,
Do you think that you received the non "fast-on" type? That's what it sounds like; could you post a photo? I agree shrink wrap should be used regardless.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99911&stc=1&d=1360426625

Thanks for all the replies. Here is what I ordered. I believe I should have ordered HPCP41F instead of HPCP41F1. If you agree you may make the change in your OP for others. Thanks for your excellent instructions.

smittygouv30: much thanks that gives me confidence and I am just going to use 120V not 240V.

 

[smittygouv30]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99911&stc=1&d=1360426625

Thanks for all the replies. Here is what I ordered. I believe I should have ordered HPCP41F instead of HPCP41F1. If you agree you may make the change in your OP for others. Thanks for your excellent instructions.

smittygouv30: much thanks that gives me confidence and I am just going to use 120V not 240V.

I'm glad I have given you confidence but why only use for 120v and not the 240v. These things are fantastic as long as your realize that they are a little bit of work to install safely/correctly. I happen to enjoy the process of building brewing equipment almost as much as brewing itself, so for me it wasn't that big of a deal.

I had never soldered electrical before but with with a few quick searches I bought the correct electrical solder (60/40) and flux and connected the fast-on to the blades without issues. I use this for all 240v connections. Soooo, don't be scurrr'd

Corey

 

[runs4beer]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99911&stc=1&d=1360426625

Thanks for all the replies. Here is what I ordered. I believe I should have ordered HPCP41F instead of HPCP41F1. If you agree you may make the change in your OP for others.

You might be right now that I look around at other places but it's weird when I look at my Amazon order history I order HPCP41F1 from parts express and got the ones wanted... when I get to a pc and can edit my post I will. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[SpartyParty]

Picture of one finished element with Switch Craft Fast-On "Pig Tail" solution:

(If anyone else has done this yet, I certainly haven't seen it.)

Here's a close-up of the SwitchCraft connector:

Here's the two elements and power cable all in a single shot:

can you explain the triclover elements? how do they install and how did build them? thx

 

[Kayakr1988]

Hey Runs4beer,

Can you post pictures of your control panel? I'm interested in building something like it but was wondering how you laid your out.

 

[Handsaw]

I have been thinking about the question of how to make sure you don’t plug the power cable into the element socket or vice versa. I think that if you go by any of P-Js wiring diagrams there won’t be a catastrophic problem because there is a contactor separating the elements from the rest of the control panel and if you apply voltage to the element side of the contactor there is nowhere for current to flow so no harm is done. Likewise, plugging the element plug into the power input will do nothing. You will know you done it the wrong way when nothing happens.
Now please tell me if I’m wrong on this because I’m about to build a control panel using these plugs.

 

[Handsaw]

runs4beer said
"I power my control panel with a 16 foot run of 10/4 SOOW Neoprene-Jacketed Power Cable from a spa panel that is hangs on the wall of my brewery."
Did you have a problem getting the 10/4 to go into the plug cover? If so, how did you solve it?

 

[JRems]

runs4beer said
"I power my control panel with a 16 foot run of 10/4 SOOW Neoprene-Jacketed Power Cable from a spa panel that is hangs on the wall of my brewery."
Did you have a problem getting the 10/4 to go into the plug cover? If so, how did you solve it?

It might be a week or so before you get a response. Runs4beer is on vacation.

 

[Handsaw]

Thanks

 

[biertourist]

Picture of one finished element with Switch Craft Fast-On "Pig Tail" solution:

(If anyone else has done this yet, I certainly haven't seen it.)

Here's a close-up of the SwitchCraft connector:

Here's the two elements and power cable all in a single shot:

can you explain the triclover elements? how do they install and how did build them? thx

Those are pics of my build.
The Triclovers are from "StillDragon" they call them "Element Guard Kits": http://www.stilldragon.com/element-guard-kit-and-adapters.html

They're 2" triclamps (compatible with 1/2" clamps and valves) and normal camco NPT electric elements just screw into them. I then used food grade silicone to help the seal.
-I'd highly recommend the harder-to-find pure stainless elements.)

I'd also recommend throwing away the copper wire connectors that still dragon gives you because they're just outright dangerous even with their cheap heat shrink tubing you can end up with super dangerous hot shorts.


Adam

 

[biertourist]

runs4beer said
"I power my control panel with a 16 foot run of 10/4 SOOW Neoprene-Jacketed Power Cable from a spa panel that is hangs on the wall of my brewery."
Did you have a problem getting the 10/4 to go into the plug cover? If so, how did you solve it?

10/4 wire will fit into the plug cover itself, you just have to remove the rubber gasket that comes installed inside of them by default.

The outer ring that you screw down to the cable won't go over the 10/4 neoprene cable that Home Depot sells; I used a wood chisel to just scrape out the inside and make the hole slightly larger. It will make your hands hurt the next day but it takes maybe 3 minutes per adapter. (As someone else said this solution requires additional labor, although its cheaper.)



Adam

 

[runs4beer]

runs4beer said
"I power my control panel with a 16 foot run of 10/4 SOOW Neoprene-Jacketed Power Cable from a spa panel that is hangs on the wall of my brewery."
Did you have a problem getting the 10/4 to go into the plug cover? If so, how did you solve it?

Thanks for the out of office reply J, sadly I'm back

It took a little work but not much, 3 minutes is about right. I smoothed the in side of the plug body with a rotary tool's (like a Dermal) sanding drum but a round or half round file would work well. I did this just to smooth the in side not to remove any major amounts of plastic. Then I shaped the edge of the neoprene jacket to kill the corner from where it was cut and a little oil and it slid right in. Not much work at all, also make sure the cord is round, it can come off the roll oval in places, if it is oval it can be taped round with a hammer just make sure it's not really cold.

 

[runs4beer]

Hey Runs4beer,

Can you post pictures of your control panel? I'm interested in building something like it but was wondering how you laid your out.

Snapped a few low res phone camera shots of my control case (really not a panel I guess). I used PJ's "no contacter" diagram which I can email you if you don't know the one. Again this is from my phone... does everyone get that "application has crashed..." when they try to post images from the mobile app?

 

[runs4beer]

If you were using contacters then you'd need to make a back mounting plate of some sort. Part of the reason it all worked our so well for me is I used the door mounted 25a on-off-on selector switch from Granger. I have a detailed parts list that I can email as well. Just pm your email address.

 

[runs4beer]

.

 

[runs4beer]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=99911&stc=1&d=1360426625

Thanks for all the replies. Here is what I ordered. I believe I should have ordered HPCP41F instead of HPCP41F1. If you agree you may make the change in your OP for others. Thanks for your excellent instructions.

smittygouv30: much thanks that gives me confidence and I am just going to use 120V not 240V.

I'm sorry you are right:

The (incorrect) item number on the OP is not the one I used.
HPCP41F has Faston 0.250" termination and accept the more readily available available in 10 awg faston connections.

...and now I can no longer edit my OP... After you posted your question I now remember having conflicting info. on the part numbers when doing this write up so I pulled up Amazon order history and because I got what I wanted I used that item number and didn't double check...:smack::smack:

HERE where you can see the different termination sizes listed.

again... sorry, I suck.

 

[jbnla]

I'm sorry you are right:

The (incorrect) item number on the OP is not the one I used.
HPCP41F has Faston 0.250" termination and accept the more readily available available in 10 awg faston connections.

...and now I can no longer edit my OP... After you posted your question I now remember having conflicting info. on the part numbers when doing this write up so I pulled up Amazon order history and because I got what I wanted I used that item number and didn't double check...:smack::smack:

HERE where you can see the different termination sizes listed.

again... sorry, I suck.

No worry smittygouv30 gave me all I needed to use the one I got. Your switchcraft plugs have been a major new contribution. Thanks. I would still love to see how you changed from you Jbox to something else.