Switch Options for 2 Heating Elements?

[rivertranced]

I am planning to dump my heatstick due to lack of food safety (mine has chrome and PVC) and plan to install elements directly in my BK and HLT instead.

I do not have enough power to run both at the same time, so I'd like to find a switch that allows me to have either "left side on," "right side on," or "off." Something like this:

Does such a thing exist? One alternative I've considered is to use two 3-way pole switches, one which controls master power and another which controls left and right power. The only problem with that is it would be pretty easy to flip power to the wrong element and run one dry.

Also, on an unrelated note, are most water heater elements chrome-plated stainless or is it easy to find one that is 100% SS? Looks like most of the Camcos on Amazon, such as this one, are chrome plated.

 

[Saboral]

Get an spdt switch. This has one common hot and you select which leg you want to apply power to.

If you need support for 240v get a dpdt which can handle two hot commons.

 

[rivertranced]

That's a good suggestion, but I believe I'd need an SSR to accomodate that, correct?

Trying to steer clear of relays to keep it simple (my switches are built right into my stand; I don't have a separate control panel).

 

[Saboral]

Your post wasn't real clear, are you using a PID or manual control?

I was under the impression you're just looking for a switch to turn on one of two elements from a common hot.

 

[rivertranced]

Manual control, preferable with the switch wired directly into the 120V circuit.

 

[Saboral]

No SSR is necessary. Just directly wire one hot from each leg of the switch to each of your elements.

Out of curiosity and to make sure I'm not missing something, why do you think an SSR is necessary?

 

[Brumateur]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SZW26-25-AC...-Cam-Changeover-Combined-Switch-/310974609211

 

[rivertranced]

Thanks, these are some great options. I especially like that rotary switch, though will need to do some research on how to wire something like that.

Does anyone know whether heating elements are all made which chrome plated SS, or are there versions out there that are 100% stainless?

 

[Saboral]

I found this, but the specifications aren't super clear.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UVMMWI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Try looking for one at Grainger.com they have everything.

 

[rivertranced]

I also dug a bit more on this and realized that those Camco heating elements are a combination of chromium and nickel, like all SS. They just aren't clear on what the combination looks like, but I'll assume it's safe.

Thanks for the rec on Grainger! Gonna head over there today.

 

[kal]

The black heating rods on Camco heating elements are made from the highest Grade Nickel and Chromium Incoloy which is high temperature and corrosion resistant.

It is essentially a mix of premium grade nickel and stainless steel. Incoloy is about 8 times more expensive, lighter, and more corrosion resistant than standard 304/316 stainless steel that is used extensively in the food preparation industry.

These heating elements are principally installed in home water heaters used in potable water systems. Hundreds of thousands are most likely in use worldwide in hot water tanks built by American, A.O. Smith, Bradford White, Craftmaster, General Electric, GS Wood, Kenmore, Lochinvar, Maytag, Mor-Flo, Reliance, Rheem, Richmond, Ruud, Sears, State, and Whirlpool Heaters, to name a few. If they weren’t food safe, they wouldn’t allow them to be used in hot water tanks.

Kal

 

[rivertranced]

Great, thanks for the additional detail Kal! As always, your expertise on this stuff is appreciated!

 

[rivertranced]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SZW26-25-AC...-Cam-Changeover-Combined-Switch-/310974609211

Thanks for this suggestion! This is the route I decided to go. Now I just need to figure out how to wire it as I've only wired standard three way switches previously.

Here is a wiring diagram of the unit. I know that when the switch is in the left position the connected terminals are 1:2, 5:6 and 9:10. I'm assuming I'd add the left side load to 1:2 and the right side load to 3:4 for example, but where does the line/power go?

Switch Position
Term___1___0___2___Term
1______X___O___O___2
3______O___O___X___4
5______X___O___O___6
7______O___O___X___8
9______X___O___O___10
11_____O___O___X___12
Term___1___0___2___Term

My neighbor is an electrical engineer so I intend to ask for his assistance on this part, but would like to have a handle on how this works myself.