Stuck fermentation or something else?

[iglehart]

I tried to research my particular problem with no luck so I will just ask on here.

I pitched yeast Wyeast ESB 1968 at 70 degrees.
Between 20-24 hours later I saw the start of fermentation. I went to bed and when I got up, no bubbles, nothing.

Is there anyway from the start of bubbles to 8-14 hours later fermentation is done? I have never had this happen. Also every batch before this fermentation started at 6-8 hours, not 24 hours.

Some detail, this time I pitched at a lower temp than previously, normally I pitch at 80 degrees.

Also for some reason the temp in the room got down to 59 the first night.
The second night I made sure the temp was better, it only got down to 64.
Right now I have moved the bucket to the house where the temp is 70 to see if the low night temps caused the stuck fermentation?

Any thoughts? Does anyone need more info to help diagnosing this?

Any help is much appreciated

 

[Potamus]

Bubbling does not mean fermentation is happening. The lack of bubbles does not mean fermentation is not happening. If you know fermentation started, forget about your beer for a few weeks and then check the gravity. I'm sure you will find your beer is done and ready to bottle.

 

[cjones]

80 degrees is high for normal fermenting, like to be mid 60 - so that night dip in temp will probably help. fermintation will be slower at the lower tempatures so lack of bubbles, does not mean it is not working. when you ferment slower at the mid 60's on an ale, it gives it a much cleaner finish.

also with the dip in temp, if it was quick enough could of put the yeast to sleep, a quick stir at normal temp will reawaken the yeast.

 

[dobe12]

Have you taken a gravity reading? It's the only way to know for sure.

I'll also add you should be pitching colder. Pitching at 80F is way too hot. And if you pitch at 80F and the temp drops down to 58F to quickly, you could put the yeast to sleep. Just some thoughts.

 

[iglehart]

Thanks for the responses, so why is 80 to hot. I was told about 10 degrees hotter than fermentation give the yeast a good start? Was I given bad info?

Also I forgot to take OG, see other post. As for a reading now, I prefer to wait and not take any chance to infect the beer.
If I see nothing about 4-5 days I will take a gravity reading then.

Yeast are weird, Seems from reading on here they can be unpredictable.

Todd

 

[Potamus]

Most ales should ferment between about 60 and 70 degrees. Fermentation also produces heat, so the temp in the fermenter is often 5 degrees or more warmer than ambient. If you pitch at 80 degrees, the wort may not cool enough before fermentation starts generating heat. If the fermentation is too warm, you can get off flavors in your beer.

 

[cjones]

nope you were not -

80 will help yeast repoduce faster and quicker, so if you under pitch the amount of yeast I would start at that temp to get them to repoduce quickly then slowly over a few hours drop the temp down to do a clean ferment, at about 67 degrees for most ales. -

But if you use starters or begin to you do not need to start at this temp, I also would not hold this temp for more than a couple days. - if your gravity is belowe 1.058 when you pitch and you are using a wyeast smack pack, I would also not start at that temp. But if your gravity was above 1.060, I would start there until I see signs then slowly cool it off.

 

[iglehart]

I used the wyeast package that you need to break and let swell before pitching.

My estimated OG was about 1.065, but again I forgot to get a reading. I was concerned about putting it away with minimal infection.

Figures, as soon as I miss a step something out of the ordinary happens.
My first 9 batches or so, always started the next morning and ran for 2-4 days.
This time 24 hour delay and maybe 10 hours of bubbling.

I have an extra fermentor and left over stuff, maybe I should just brew another batch to relax myself.

 

[dobe12]

ALWAYS a good idea to relax and brew another batch!

I would disagree with the idea of pitching warm to grow yeast then cool to fermentation temps. There are a LOT of variables here. How much yeast should you then pitch? How do you know how much is growing and if it's enough for a healthy fermentation? When do you know when the growth phase stops and active fermentation begins? Sooo many variables to worry about.

Common practice is to use a pitching calculator to figure out how much yeast you need to pitch for a certain beer. Make the correct size starter if necessary. On brew day, cool the wort at or just below fermentation temp (60-68F depending on strain and results wanted) and pitch. Hold that temp for the duration or after 3-5 days, slowly raise the temp to the upper 60's to help the yeast finish up.

 

[iglehart]

So I just got home after moving the fermentor into the house which is 70 degrees. I expected to see bubbling again but nothing.

So 2 things, can fermentation bubbling stop after 12 hours?

2nd someone above said fermentation can help without bubbling? How so?
I thought the CO2 has to go somewhere right?

I may just take a gravity reading because I am beginning to worry.

 

[Potamus]

I've had batches where I never got a single bubble, and they turned out fine. Ale pails are notorious for leaking gas out the lids. The fermentation is producing CO2, it's just following the path of least resistance, which often is between the bucket and lid. It's nothing to worry about, just a sign of the cheap plastic buckets we use.

 

[miguy96b]

I'm fairly new to the hobby only been brewing for a year now with some extract kits and some AG brews under my belt but here is my two cents:

The airlock not bubbling is said to not be a sign of active fermentation because the co2 could be escaping somewhere else. The fermenter might have a small leak somewhere. The leak isn't enough to hurt a beer but it could affect "airlock activity".

Honestly, it could also be done with active fermentation. You indicated that there was a lag time and then the airlock bubbled. This usually indicates that active fermentation has started (but it is not the end all be all indicator of fermentation).

You said you want to take a hydrometer reading, that might not be a bad idea. I'd let it go a week, then if you are still super paranoid take your reading and see where you are at. I'd still leave it in the fermenter for 2 weeks no matter what the reading is.

I usually leave my beers in the primary for 3 weeks and then move them over to the keg for 3 more then I serve. My timeline is probably a little long for some and might even be a little short for others. It also depends on the beer, I have a quad that has been in secondary for quite a few months now... Anyway, as they say RDWHAHB, it will work itself out in the long run!

 

[iglehart]

Potamus, I can see what you mean. The slow bubbling I saw last night may have been a vigorous bubbling with only a little going through the air lock. I normally do a good check of the lid but that was another thing I forgot this time as well. This could also explain the slower start than normal.

Thanks man, Happy New Year